Rioja for the Holidays

Grapes have been grown in Spain for at least 5,000 years, though winemaking has only been going on for a scant 3,000 years thanks to the Phoenicians. I'm going to skip over a lot of that history and focus on these two wineries, founded in the mid-to-late 1800s.

They caught phylloxera late, so by the time it hit they already knew how to avoid it with New World root stocks. Unlike the US wine industry, Spain didn't have to deal with a 19th century Civil War or early 20th century Prohibition, but her export sales suffered from neutrality in both World Wars and production was impacted by her own tragic Civil War in between the two big European conflicts. Through all of the turmoil, none of the factions were really opposed to wine production or consumption, so things were able to continue on with minor interruptions. I think that Spain might be the only country in the world who had four decades of a military dictatorship and didn't let the wine industry go to hell (I'm looking at you, Yugoslavia and Bulgaria).

Despite the ups and downs of Spanish history, I'm always delighted to try bottles from this country. Not only are they often delicious, but the quality-price ratio is fantastic. You can rarely get well-aged bargains like this from France or Italy or Napa. Here are two that I've had the pleasure to try during this holiday season.

2008 Faustino V Reserva
Rioja, Spain
90% Tempranillo, 10% Mazuelo
$20, 13.5% abv.

This winery was founded in 1861 (rough for us, not too bad for Spain) by Eleuterio Martinez Arzok. The six-year old bottle still shows surprising youth with aromas and flavors of tart red raspberry, earth and a crisp finish. A firm structure demonstrates a serious character that is an absolute steal at the price of two sawbucks.

1998 Bodegas Riojanas Viña Albina Gran Reserva
Rioja, Spain
80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano
$50, 13% abv.

I thank the PR firm for providing samples a decade apart, albeit from different wineries. This one is a relative youngster founded in 1890. $50 is not your usual middle of the week wine budget, but this delivers a lot of complexity at sixteen years. Perhaps open it for a celebratory viewing of John Hughes' Sixteen Candles? This one opens with a rich nose of black cherry with touches of tobacco and leather. On the palate it is mild and gentle and showing at just the perfect age. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 Collazzi Libertà & 2009 Cune Rioja Reserva

Here's a glimpse behind the curtain of the wine writing world. A lot of people think that a sommelier shows up at your door, knocks politely, and then proceeds to poor a perfectly curated selection of wines that are all related to each other. Three vintages of a specific Chateau, for instance.

In reality, it is common to receive completely unrelated wines, but these are often linked by importer or distributor, or sometimes by grape or style. Thus the pairing shown here of two hearty reds in the $20 range.

2012 Collazzi Libertà
Toscana IGT
55% Merlot, 30% Syrah, 15% Sangiovese
$24, 14% abv.

Syrah and Sangiovese really dominate with the Merlot playing a surprisingly background role. Big tannins, spice, black pepper, and a long finish. Don't save this one for pizza night--make a marinara sauce from scratch and boil up a big pot of spaghetti and meatballs. This wine deserves a home cooked meal.

2009 Cune Rioja Reserva
Rioja, Spain
$20, 13.5% abv.
85% Tempranillo, 5% Mazuelo, 5% Graciano, 5% Garnacha Tinta

Light chocolate and leather profile, smooth body with mild tannins. Delightful balance and an elegant finish. Rioja remains an outstanding bargain across many producers and you'll see what wonders a mere five years of aging is able to accomplish with these grapes. Serve with a thick, medium-rare roasted pork chop that is heavily marbled and you'll never forget the meal.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Spanish Verdejo

Ampelography is the branch of botany that deals with the identification of grape varieties. Traditionally this was done through identifying leaf shape and color of the fruit, but now we do it through DNA testing. You might think that the scientific approach would make everyone sit down and rationally agree as to which grapes originated where, but I'm guessing you haven't watched many daytime TV shows hosted by Maury Povich.

Verdejo is a white wine grape of North African origin grown in the Rueda region of Spain since the 11th century. It is not related to the Verdelho grape that is famous on the Portuguese island of Madeira. It is also not the same as the Italian grape Verdello, which, coincidentally, is one of the Spanish nicknames for a fourth unrelated grape better known as Pedro Ximénez. Complicating matters are outdated wine books that group all of these as the same grape. There is a tendency by some to believe that the older a book is, the more authoritative it is. However, we're talking about biology. You (hopefully) wouldn't look to the middle ages for medical advice when modern treatments can cure you.

2013 Protos Verdejo
Rueda, Spain
100% Verdejo
$10, 13% abv.

The wine opens up early with a bright and fruity nose of peach and pineapple. On the tongue it has mild acidity and a delicate, floral finish.

2012 Yllera Verdejo
Rueda, Spain
100% Verdejo
$10, 12.5% abv.

This one is softer and milder with a rounder body, and a far more restrained style. Very faint mandarin orange flavor and a light finish.

Both are perfect for summer, and the great bargains make them ideal for picnic purposes. Throw one in the cooler and enjoy with cheese, fruit, and salumi under the sun. Salud!

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 Martín Códax Albariño

The wines of Martín Códax take their name from a Galician troubadour, which I've written about in a previous review. While the Albariño has been a consistent and enjoyable performer over the years, I was impressed by the label on this vintage.

The company uses a lute as their logo, but rather than go for a photorealistic version, the designer stripped down the concept into seven simple lines, with the five strings in cyan foil. I've always loved this stuff and as I find myself being pulled back into the world of graphic arts, I appreciate the clean and simple approach as opposed to just throwing everything at a logo and hoping that the viewer will be able to figure it out.

Our brains are quite capable of filling in the details from minimalist designs, which is why we can all understand the concept of a happy Homo sapiens with just two dots and a curved line. :) How long does it take you to figure out if someone is in a good mood from mere social signals and language?

2012 Martín Códax Albariño
Rías Baixas
100% Albariño
$15, 12.5% abv.

I get a message on Facebook from a reader. "I'm grilling some chicken tonight. What should I serve?" Without knowing this person in real life or knowing the details of the dish, I recommended this wine. Spanish Albariño is affordable, ridiculously easy to find, and pleasing to a wide range of palates. This vintage opened up with melon and floral aromas. On the palate, it shows mild white fruit flavors with bright, medium acidity and a slightly tart finish. In short, everything that you want from a cool summer sipper.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Sparkling Rosé for Valentine's Day

Valentine's Day is coming up, and what says romance more than pink bubbles?

There was a time in my life when I thought such a bottle would be cheesy, some sort of artificially colored Champale with a plastic "cork" sold for $5 next to the box of chocolates that contain more wax than cacao. Over time, the concept of the dry rosé became one of my favorite wine styles, and the sparkling versions are just as fascinating. The pink color can come in many different shades, but what you're really getting is something made like a white wine with some of the depth of a red wine, a combination that makes such bottles inherently food-friendly.

Don't save these for dessert, but rather open them up early in the meal with appetizers--salted nuts, cheeses, salumi, olives. The acidity will play well against the salt and the whole experience will open up your palate for the meal to follow. Plus both of these are very affordable, although the second one comes in a half bottle size (which is ideal for two people during an appetizer course).

NV Juvé y Camps Brut Rosé
Cava DO
100% Pinot Noir
$13, 12% abv.

I've had several Cavas made from Pinot Noir, but I believe this is the deepest rosé. Classic aromas of wild strawberry and a touch of earth way in the background. On the palate there are big bubbles with a tart and acidic finish. While great on its own, the aforementioned salty snacks will really bring out the bold berry flavors.

NV Ferrari Rosé
Trento DOC
60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay
$17/375mL, 12.5% abv.

The Italian bottle is also heavy on the Pinot Noir, though made in a lighter style. It pours a lovely pale salmon color with a nutty and toasty nose. The Champagne-style grape combination produces a more classic French flavor. Medium bubbles and firm acidity. Long lemony finish. This one is going to work a little better with some fresh oysters, marinated calamari, or grilled baby octopus.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 Martínsancho Verdejo

Super Bowl XLVIII is upon us this weekend, and there are tons of posts about which wines go best with Buffalo wings and Ro-Tel dip. I don't have a dog in this fight (and won't, until my Cleveland Browns make it back to the big one, but I'm not holding my breath. Washington is well known for its wines, though I had a memorable experience making osso buco in a hotel room with a Colorado Cabernet Franc.

Serving wine at a Super Bowl party is a little tricky, as it is generally not a popular option in a realm where beer reigns supreme. But if you're looking for something to go along well with cured meats and cheeses and li'l smokies, I'll pass along a reference for Spanish white wines. Affordable, delicious, and well-suited to dealing with all manner of salty snacks.

2012 Martínsancho Verdejo
La Seca, D.O. Rueda Superior
100% Verdejo
$20, 13.5% abv.

The starts off with a nose that is very floral with hints of jasmine and honey, yet on the palate it is dry and bright with a round body and a quick finish. Certainly a perfect match for grilled shellfish with a spritz of citrus and twist of aromatic herbs just before serving.

I enjoyed this with a few thick slices of summer sausage and Swiss cheese, which went along nicely with the roasted pistachios and crackers in a recent gift box. Great wine for appetizers and casual snacks that won't break the bank.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Spanish Sparkling Wines for the New Year

The next two days will see a mad rush for bubbly wine, meaning that wine retailers have cleared out the egg nog and chocolate liqueur to make room for a wide range of sparkling wines to meet every price point. Expensive Chamapagne is a true delight, and I have a deep fondness for the vintage bottles and grower Champagnes that I have had the pleasure to enjoy from time to time. But when I'm ringing in the New Year with folks who don't spend lots of time arguing over the importance of the méthode champenoise, I prefer good-tasting but more affordable bottles that still look classy. And as with almost everything I try, an ability to pair well with food for regular non-holiday consumption is very important.

Spanish Cava fits the bill nicely, and all of these wines are produced in large quantities and should be easy to find. You'll notice that I've used the press images for these wines: due to a corrupted SD card I lost a handful of wine images after the bottles had already been tasted and sent off to be recycled. I prefer using my own photography, but good PR shots exist for a reason, and I have occasionally used them in the past.

Update: I found the photo! Proof that these graced my own kitchen table, but for formatting purposes, I'm leaving the trade photos below.

NV Freixenet Cordon Negro Sweet Cuvée
40% Parellada, 35% Macabeo, 25% Xarel-lo
$12, 12% abv.

The black Freixenet bottle is one of the easiest to spot in the wine shop, though there are varying styles of sweet/dry available that all look similar. Many of the classic Champagne categories are counter-intuitive, since extra dry is actually a little sweet and falls in between brut (meaning dry and actually dry) and sec (meaning dry, but actually sweeter than extra dry). Putting Sweet Cuvée in the name is a great simplifier, and this one is not too sugary. It's a great dessert wine with cheese and fresh fruit, or one that will appeal to novice wine drinkers.

NV Segura Viudas Brut
D.O. Cava
50% Macabeo, 35% Parellada, 15% Xarel-lo
$10, 11.5% abv.

Backing up a bit to the previous wine, brut is more or less the standard sparkling wine level. Not bone dry but no appreciable sweetness either. The wine shows tart lemony acidity with a hint of pear. Great balance with a crisp finish. When I talk about pairing sparkling wine with everyday food, this would be a great go-to wine for spicy fried shrimp and an Asian cole slaw. Don't be afraid of the hot peppers, which will taste even better with the bubbles.

NV Segura Viudas Brut Rosé
90% Trepat, 10% Garnacha
$10, 12% abv.

Pink sparkling wines are a special category, one that can look feminine but often have more depth and structure than their golden counterparts. Often these are mistaken for being sweet (curse you White Zinfandel!), but I often gravitate to these or Blanc de Noirs when offered a selection of sparklers. And for those of you chasing your life list of wine grapes like a birder, you can add Trepat. Gentle aromas of wild strawberries and citrus peel, big bubbles, firm acidity and dry. I love a wine like this with cured meats and olives, even better if you can combine them with delicious bread to make a muffuletta.

NV Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad
67% Macabeo, 33% Parellada
$25, 12% abv.

Part of the glamour of sparkling wine is the bottle, and for $25 this one certainly delivers. Not only is it a great wine, but the metal base and crest allow for a bit of showmanship during the opening, and the burgeoning craft movement will mean that some fan of Pinterest will be begging you for the empty bottle. This one shows crisp mineral tones and medium acidity. Smaller bubbles than the other offerings and a more gentle finish. More refined, more elegant, and one that would go great with a wide range of brunch dishes including Eggs Benedict. And it's still affordable enough to incorporate into a Mimosa, a French 75, or a Kir Pétillant.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

EccociWine of Spain

It wasn't until going back over the tech sheets later that I realized I'd just tried two grapes for the first time. The white contains Petit Manseng, an old grape from southwest France, and the red is primarily Marselan, a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache developed in 1961. This brings my life list to 180, meaning that the Doppel level of the Wine Century Club is a bit closer. There was a time when I'd try a dozen new grapes in a week, but nearly nine years later, it's a pleasant but rare surprise when I get to try something new.

Speaking of surprises, I had to keep checking to make sure that I hadn't mixed up my notes. EccociWine is based near Girona in the Catalonia region of Spain. There is a firm commitment to environmentally-responsible production, and it is Spain’s first CarbonZero certified winery. But they are not committed to local, indigenous Spanish grapes, meaning that the varieties grown there are mostly French in heritage. These are creative blends that look more like Languedoc than Northeast Spain.

(As a side note, I love that the script on the labels is nearly as indecipherable as my own chicken scratches.)

2011 Eccoci Blanco
50% Roussanne, 30% Viognier, 20% Petit Manseng
Catalonia, Spain
$20, 13.3% abv.
20,000 bottles produced

The name "Eccoci" means "here we are", and the wine itself definitely has a presence. It has a big, round body with lots of bold white fruit, yet the acidity is low without being flabby. I got scents of peach and pear with nice citrus blossom notes in the background, and just the barest touch of sweetness on the finish. It's a fascinating balance and a bottle that I think is paired best with conversation. Even after trying thousands of wines, I enjoyed talking about this one. Highly recommended.

2008 Eccomi Tinto Super Premium
Catalonia, Spain
60% Marselan, 20% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petit Verdot
$30, 14% abv.
25,000 bottles produced

This wine is singular, with a name meaning "here I am". Bright red plum aromas with touches of leather and chocolate on the nose. Medium tannins with a deep black plum flavor and a touch of spice on the finish. I'd certainly recommend a bit of breathing, but once it mellows it will be a perfect wine to enjoy this winter with slow braised meats and root vegetables.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 Campo Viejo Garnacha

This little wine showed up with full latitude and longitude coordinates on it. Someone asked if this referred to the winery or the vineyard, but the satellite view indicates both: N: 42°28'48" W: 02°29'08". (My first search used east longitude by accident, pointing to an area in the extreme southeast of France, leading to a lot of confusion.)

I've sampled many Campo Viejo wines over the years, and the orange and red waiter's corkscrew with their name is still my favorite. Something about the color and the chrome makes it look like a 50s hot rod.

I enjoyed this wine on a quiet Sunday afternoon with a burger topped with red onion marmalade, sautéed mushrooms, and smoked Gouda. In the photo you can see the red onion, garlic, and Cherokee Purple heirloom tomato that all went together for the tasty lunch.

2012 Campo Viejo Garnacha
Rioja
100% Garnacha
$14, 14% abv.

Dominant aroma of blueberries with following elements of blackberry and red cherry. These continued on the palate with big berry flavors but low tannins and a soft finish. There's probably a great authentic Spanish pairing for this, and I need to study the cuisine more, but I have to admit that it served as a perfect burger wine.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample.

Purple Wine Company Online Tasting

These wines were tasted during a recent online Twitter tasting and video broadcast by the Purple Wine Company, host to a half dozen brands.

The Four Vines wine labels feature a sort of naked lady figure mixed with grape vines. Makes me wonder why J.R.R. Tolkien didn't have some little ent vines in one of the books. During the tasting, I asked if any of these these figures were made into hood ornaments to adorn company tractors, and the answer was no. It could be right up there with the Spirit of Ecstacy on the Rolls-Royce, yet equally tempting for theft.

2011 Four Vines Naked Chardonnay
Santa Barbara, California
100% Chardonnay
Unoaked
$12, 13.9% abv.

Mild and soft, round body with a supple mouthfeel. Dominant aromas of peach and apple with a gentle, barely acidic finish. I found myself craving a little dish of a half dozen steamed clams, topped with garlic and vermouth.

2010 Four Vines Truant Old Vine Zinfandel
California
77% Zinfandel, 13% Syrah, 5% Petite Sirah, 3% Barbera, 2% Sangiovese
$12, 14.5% abv.

Big red with a firm red fruit profile and strong tannins. Great red cherry and spice with a long, tannic finish. Definitely a good pizza wine.

2011 Alto Cinco Garnacha
Paniza, Spain
94% Garnacha, 6% Tempranillo
$15, 14% abv.

The name is a play on the "high five", though a different phrase is used for that gesture in Spanish-speaking countries. This wine has a bright red plum flavor, bold red fruit aromas, and a mild cherry finish. Low tannins and not much influence from oak. Like many Spanish reds, a great match for pork in its most delicious smoked forms.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Online Ribera del Duero Tasting

I recently got a chance to join an online tasting featuring the wines of Spain's Ribera del Duero region with my pals from Snooth. I have more detail on the region and additional tasting notes from my NYC Ribera tasting.

If you're interested in these wines you can watch the video with Snooth's Gregory Dal Piaz and Ribera del Duero Sommelier Roger Kugler. We happy wine bloggers were joining in the chat session and on Twitter and elsewhere.

2012 Bodegas Peñalba López Montecastrillo Rosado
100% Tempranillo
$14, 14% abv.

I was most excited to open this bottle, given the fact that I firmly believe every summah season should feature as many rosés as possible. This one featured bright acidity with elements of lemon and watermelon. Highly recommended to keep cold in the fridge so that after a long day at work and a rough commute, you can pour yourself a glass of pure summer pleasure.

2011 Bodegas Cuevas Jiménez Ferratus A0
100% Tempranillo
$22, 14% abv.

This was a personal favorite of mine. French oak, big body, huge tannins, bright acidity, delicious. Meaty aromas, deep with spice and dark fruit and all sorts of delicious old world elements. I loved the label and said that it reminded me of Blade Runner. Later, I would make this:



2008 Bodegas Matarromera Crianza
100% Tempranillo
$30, 14.5% abv.

For the first time in my lengthy wine tasting career, I found a bottle that was entirely about the forest. This particular wine was deep and green with dried figs, stewed fruits, under notes of pine sap. I found myself wanting to grab the backpack and go hiking for a few days.

2009 Bodegas Emilio Moro Malleolus Reserva
100% Tempranillo
$49, 14.5% abv.

For a wine region that has a lot of challenges and does not pump out the massive volume of easier vineyards, there is an amazing level of diversity in the aromas and flavors represented. This well-aged example was rich with mint, plum, and huckleberries. However, the firm tannins indicate that this wine could continue to improve over the next several years.

My exposure to the wines of Ribera del Duero over the past year has convinced me that when and if I get the chance to visit Spain, this region will be at the top of my list of places I must see.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

2012 Las Rocas Rosado

I've said it a hundred times, but nothing says summer quite like a good dry rosé. Spain produces a lot of great rosados that are widely available around the country, and you shouldn't have too much trouble finding one. The next time you're at the wine shop, grab a couple of different rosés from around the world, bring them home, and keep them in the fridge. You'll find that they'll pair with just about anything, and can be a lot of fun to take to a BBQ or even to a dinner party as a pleasant aperitif.

This Grenache-based pink wine comes from Bodegas San Alejandro in the Aragón corner of northeastern Spain. The winery is a relative newcomer in Spain, founded in 1962. The DO of Calatayud is named after the nearby city that surrounds an old Moorish castle from the early 8th century. In fact, the name Calatayud came from the Arabic Qalat 'Ayyūb (قلعة أيوب) "the fort of Job". The history of Arabic influence on the Spanish language is fascinating, and the injection of a Semitic language into a Romance language a thousand years ago leads to a can of albóndigas on the shelf of my local grocery store.)

2012 Las Rocas Rosado
Calatayud, Spain
100% Garnacha
$10, 13.5% abv.

The wine opens up quickly with bright strawberry and watermelon aromas and flavors. It has low acidity, a round mouthfeel, and a short finish. A pleasant summer sipper, and I found that it paired quite well with some spicy pork tamales in a rich red enchilada sauce.


Note: This wine was provided as a sample.

Snooth PVA: Wines of Rioja

Our final tasting for the Snooth PVA weekend was focused on the Rioja region of Spain and supplied by Vibrant Rioja. People ask me for wine recommendations all the time, and there are a few shortcuts that I take. If someone says, "I like a good red wine, not too expensive, not too--" and I say "Rioja." "OK, but I don't want it to be too tannic, and--" I once again say "Rioja." "But I need something that I can find in my local wine shop like--" "RIOJA!"

If you want a proper red wine for dinner with a few years on it and don't want to spend a lot of money, it's hard to beat the quality-price ratio you get out of the Rioja region. Whether Crianza, Reserva, or Gran Reserva, your odds are great for getting a delicious wine. And stored properly, the best of these bottles can survive for fifty years or more, meaning that the various houses have some phenomenal libraries if you are privileged to visit. However, most people I know are of the "drink now" mentality, and across many producers you can easily find these bottles throughout the United States.

Due to an early flight I did not get to spend a lot of time with each of these wines, but I did hear most of the presentation by our hostess Ana Fabiano, author of the book at right:

The Wine Region of Rioja
Ana Fabiano
Sterling Epicure, June 2012
$20, 256 pp.

While I gave a one word answer as a recommendation, Fabiano drills down into every detail of the history and geography and enology of the Rioja region. In the 80s, she was part of a team that helped privatize the Spanish wine industry after decades of national control via the Franco regime. Currently she is Brand Ambassador for DOCa Rioja and U.S. Trade Director for Vibrant Rioja.

The book is full of scenic shots of the Rioja region as well as her own observations and reflections, delivered with a combination of passion and true affection for the vineyards and producers.

One thing that struck me was when she pointed out that Spain is the second most mountainous country in Europe after Switzerland, and I doubt most people would be able to answer that question in a trivia contest. More importantly, the mountains and the people who live amongst them have had a profound impact on the development and character of the wine made in Rioja. If you're interested in the region I would highly recommend reading her book.

As mentioned earlier, these are very brief impressions of each wine and should not be taken for full reviews.

2007 Marques de Riscal Reserva, $14: Red cherry, slight profile of herbs and twigs.

2007 Marques de Murrieta Reserva, $22: Tart red cherry with firm tannins.

2004 Manuel Quintano Reserva, $48: Black cherry with high, bright acidity. Very interesting.

2005 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva, $53: Another with a black cherry profile, but this time milder and with deeper black fruit flavors.

2004 Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva, $35: Leather and plum aromas dominate, dialing in on the Rioja profile that I adore.

1994 Marques de Riscal Reserva, $45: Slight garnet/copper tint from the age. Earthy and barnyard aromas with an underlying dried cherry flavor and a delicate finish.

1994 Marques de Murrieta Reserva, $52: This one surprised me with the mineral aspects, bringing out a little ash and stone above the fruit. While this wine was a little closed on my sampling, I am sure it would open up with time and decanting.

1994 Manuel Quintano Reserva, $60: Rich nose of sour cherries that follows on the palate, and I mean that in the most delicious way possible. Amazing that such bright acidity can last so long, coincidentally from the year I graduated high school.

1994 Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva, $76: Spice and dried fruit. Slightly sweet on the tongue, yet with a black tea finish. One that rewards long thought. My favorite of the lineup.

1985 Conde de Valdemar Gran Reserva, $99: In a blind tasting this one could have easily been five or ten years old instead of eighteen. While this one had the acidity and cherry elements found in many of the other wines, I found a little of the tomato leaf notes found in some of my favorite vegetal wines.

* * *

Before everyone had finished tasting, my buddy Dezel and I split early to catch our flights. Standing on 6th Avenue with our bright pink gift bags, we hailed a cab and made it back to LaGuardia in time for him to get back to D.C. and for me to get back to Memphis.

While this post concludes my series on the Snooth PVA weekend, it does not conclude my relationship with that website nor my friendship and collaboration with the many wonderful people that I met on that trip. We've all been in frequent communication with each other since, and there are great things to come in the future. Stay tuned!

Check out these other great reviews of the same tasting! Vinesleuth "What is Rioja Wine?", The V.I.P. Table "Rioja: An Untapped Resource", Vindulge "Cellar Worthy Rioja", My Vine Spot "#SnoothPVA: Wines of Rioja Farewell"

Note: This trip was provided by Snooth.

Snooth PVA: Ribera del Duero

During my weekend in New York, I kept getting whisked away to a different cuisine or wine region every few hours. At moments, I was reminded of the classic quip "If it's Tuesday, this must be Belgium." And thus on Saturday at noon, we gathered for lunch at the Spanish restaurant Salinas in Chelsea, featuring the wines of Ribera del Duero.

Ribera del Duero perches on a plateau about 200km/125 miles north of Madrid. Wine production there is difficult and yields are small but spectacular. The land was scraped and destroyed by retreating Moors in the 15th century, leaving it almost useless for farming. (The environment is so harsh that even phylloxera has a hard time surviving.) The focus is almost exclusively on the Tempranillo grape. Legally wines in the Denominación de Origen are required to have at least 75% Tempranillo (or Tinto Fino as they call it), but most of the 280 producers do not blend.

Why stick around in such a harsh area, making wine from only one grape? This is also Basque country, where the people are tenacious and tied to their native land, language, cuisine, and wine. As our host remarked, "Before God was God and rocks were rocks, the Basque were Basque."

While we were fed exceptionally well over the entirety of the weekend, this was my favorite meal, starting off with...

ensalada de jamon con peras: baby arugula, shaved Serrano ham, d'Anjou pear, Manchego cheese, vinaigrette

A light and refreshing start to the meal, and while I would have loved a crisp Albariño, it was time to dive into the reds.

2009 Bodegas y Viñdeos Ortega Fournier Urban Ribera, $14: Dark cherry and firm tannins, touch of leather.

2011 Bodegas Félix Callejo Flores de Callejo, $20: Firm tannins with a plum character, just enough oak.

2011 Bodegas Barco de Piedra, $15: Smooth red cherry profile with mellow tannins, and a mild, melt-in-your-mouth finish. Great bargain.

2007 Bodegas y Viñdeos Montecastro, $41: Robust and bold, with a strong body and firm tannins. Earth and plum aromas once it breathes a bit.

caldo de temporada: Galician style pumpkin-chicken soup, smoked bacon, chorizo, potato, broccoli rabe

I've been craving this soup ever since I got back. Why haven't I made it yet? So simple yet so savory, and it's just the kind of thing I need to fix before it gets too warm here in Memphis.

2005 Legaris, $36: The first wine of the day with the enticing whiff of mint on top. Underneath were rich and dark aromas of plum and coffee.

2006 Bodegas Convento San Francisco, $34: One of my favorites, with lots of vegetal aromas. Bell peppers, a little brett, and earth. This wine brings the funk in the best possible way.

2009 Bodegas Cepa 21 Malabrigo, $66: Ripe red fruit, low tannins, and a bright character.

2010 Bodegas Astrales, $40: Red cherries, with firm tannins and a tart, rich finish.

costilla al vino tinto: Ribera del Duero braised short ribs, confit fingerling potatoes, crispy leeks

I found this a novel way to serve short ribs--just two ribs and sliced potatoes in a crème brûlée ramekin. You get just enough of the rich flavor without it getting too heavy. I was reminded of Thomas Keller's mantra about the palate dulling after three bites. I restrained myself and did not pick up the crockery to lick it clean.

2009 Selección de Torres Celeste, $28: Plum and spice with notes of leather. Pleasant, medium tannic finish.

2001 Explotaciones Valduero, $160: The mint came back on this wine, which also featured aromas of plum and bacon fat. A really complex, fascinating, and well-aged wine. I kept coming back to it at the end of the meal, picking out new elements and layers.

2005 Bodegas Hnos. Pérez Pascuas Viña Pedrosa, $85: This one started out closed and tight, and only after an hour did it start opening up to reveal cassis and a little cedar.

2001 Condado de Haza Alenza, $100: Another earthy one that I loved, this time with licorice and coffee on top of a solid black cherry base. Beautifully aged.

For dessert we had a lovely assortment of Spanish cheeses and quince paste, a mix that was so good with the wine that I neglected to take a picture.

Spain continues to surprise me. Just when I think I have a grasp on the country and its many wine regions, I get an opportunity to delve deep into one that is new to me, but has been producing wine for thousands of years. As part of my fascination with Mediterranean wines, I hope to try some bottles from the Balearic Islands in the future. Hopefully as part of a year long trip, sailing around the sea in a small boat and docking every few days to try the local bottles and dishes, maybe take in a little fishing as well. One of these days I'll retrace the old Phoenician wine routes...

Check out these other great reviews of the same tasting! Brunello Bob "Ribera del Duero Lunch - Salinas NYC", The V.I.P. Table "Ribera del Duero: Thriving through Adversity", Wine Julia "#SnoothPVA: Experiencing Spain in New York City with Ribera del Duero Wines at Salinas", Reverse Wine Snob "Reveling in the Wine of Ribera del Duero Plus 3 Top Value Picks from this Region", Vindulge "Wine and food are a great match for Ribera del Duero", My Vine Spot "#SnoothPVA: Ribera del Duero Lunch at Salinas", Avvinare "Ribera Del Duero Tasting During SnoothPVA at Salinas"

I don't post a lot of photos of myself on this site, but my buddy Dezel snapped a shot of me hard at work tasting the delicious wines of the Ribera del Duero. I'm hoping he can make an excuse to come to Memphis to enjoy some wine with proper barbecue.

Note: This trip was provided by Snooth.

Rioja from Bodegas Franco-Españolas

Bodegas Franco-Españolas was founded in 1890 by a French négociant named Frederick Anglade Saurat. France at the time was suffering heavily from the phylloxera infestation and wine buyers were looking to establish operations in other countries like Spain. By the 1920s, the Spanish owners bought out the French partners but retained the "Franco" part of the company name.

For a long part of the company's history they have been focused on exports, so there are two main product lines: stronger Bordeaux-style wines under the Bordón name and lighter Burgundy-style wines under the Royal name. Note that I'm just talking about body here--all of the grapes are native to the region.

With the international wine market changing, they're focusing a lot more on the US these days, and if you go to the website you'll see that it's offerent in three languages: Spanish, English, and Chinese. While the Chinese wine market is exploding (particularly for high profile French wines), this is the first time I've seen a Spanish website with that option. You're much more likely to see an offering in the local language like Galician or Catalan.

2011 Rioja Royal Viura
100% Viura
$10, 12.5% abv.

Looking back through my notes it seems like a very long time since I've had anything with Viura in it. This mild white wine has bright acidity with a slight touch of ash and minerals. The fruit flavors are restrained but overripe, ending with a clean finish. A really great bargain and highly recommended.

2008 Rioja Bordón Crianza
80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha
$12, 13.5% abv.

Another good bargain, this more traditional Rioja has gentle strawberry aromas and flavors with mild tannins. More wood comes through on the long finish. Great wine with a thick ham sandwich on a rainy winter afternoon.

2006 Rioja Bordón Reserva
100% Tempranillo
$15, 13.5% abv.

Another great thing about Rioja is how you can pick up a six or seven year old wine for such a low price. And it's not just old, but properly aged. Light aromas of black fruit with very gentle tannins. Elements of plum and red cherry with a touch of leather and cedar. While it would pair well with rare beef, I found it very enjoyable just on its own.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Paul Cheneau Cava

A lot of times when I write about European wineries, I mention that the company goes back over a thousand years and the first labels were made from sheepskin parchment. While wine has been made in Catalonia for over two thousand years, Giró Ribot was founded in 1976, the year of my birth. I suddenly feel much younger.

Giró Ribot uses the motto "Family saga, Autochthonous, Gastronomic". While I think that there might be a translation problem from the native català, I love the use of the earth-born, native adjective autochthonous. Way better than terroir. The winery makes a variety of still and bubbly wines, and the Paul Cheneau marque was designed to showcase Spanish sparkling wines with French styling.

NV Paul Cheneau Brut Rosé
Penédes, Spain
85% Trepat, 15% Pinot Noir
$16, 11.5% abv.

I love a sparkling rosé, and it's even more fun when it's made from an unusual grape. I really wish I could have shown up to a party of fellow wine enthusiasts with a bottle of sparkling Trepat. It has bright cherry aromas and flavors but is completely dry. Tart and refreshing with a crisp finish.

NV Paul Cheneau Brut
Penédes, Spain
45% Macabeo, 40% Xarel-lo, 10% Chardonnay, 5% Parellada
$16, 12% abv.

Crisp and austere with slight nuttiness and toast. Dry with a mineral finish. A really pleasant Cava, and one that would be perfect to serve at a wedding or party.

NV Paul Cheneau "Lady of Spain" Brut
Penédes, Spain
45% Macabeo, 40% Xarel-lo, 15% Parellada
$13, 12% abv.

I got an extra bottle of this over the holidays and served it with appetizers at New Year's Eve. Green apple and lemon with big bubbles and tart acidity. Nice apple finish, and delightful with fried chicken. An excellent casual sparkler.

NV Paul Cheneau Demi-Sec
Penédes
45% Macabeo, 40% Xarel-lo, 10% Chardonnay, 5% Parellada
$15, 11.5% abv.

Mildly sweet with a nice creamy body. Apricot flavors with a tart, quick finish. Definitely one for dessert with some fruit and soft white cheeses, and a few shortbread cookies.

NV Paul Cheneau Reserva Brut Blanc de Blancs
Penédes
45% Macabeo, 40% Xarel-lo, 15% Parellada
$16, 12% abv.

This one was the most French in execution, and despite the native Spanish grapes, it could stand well against similarly priced blanc de blanc wines made from Chardonnay in France or California. Excellent balance of mild fruit and acidity with small bubbles and a light, tingling finish. It's probably one of the best Cavas I've ever tried, and is highly recommended.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Quartet of Cavas

I will once again offer my standard Thanksgiving wine buying advice. Think PIGS: Portugal, Italy, Greece, and Spain. There are loads of bargains from these four countries, wines that are meant to be drunk young and consumed with a wide range of foods. And within that range, you should always grab a few inexpensive sparkling wines and serve them with the meal, not just as something for toasting alone.

For example, Cava from Spain. These are made in the méthode champenoise or metodo tradicional, the same production methods used in the Champagne region. Cava is a much younger product, only going back to 1850 as opposed to the 1531 creation of Blanquette de Limoux.

I really enjoy casual sparklers, and they're a great reminder that you don't have to wait for a special occasion to enjoy wine with bubbles.

NV Segura Viudas Brut Reserva
50% Macabeo, 35% Parellada, 15% Xarel-lo
$10, 11.5% abv.
Large bubbles with a delicate floral and citrus nose. A good bargain, and perfect for making various sparkling wine cocktails.

NV Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad
67% Macabeo, 33% Parellada
$25, 12% abv.
Crisp and refreshing with mild mineral tones under a splash of lemony acidity. The bottle is very beautiful and distinctive, and worth re-purposing as a flower vase or olive oil container.

NV Freixenet Cordon Negro Brut
$12, 40% Parellada, 35% Macabeo, and 25% Xarel-lo
12% abv.
Toasty nose with a hint of honey. Clean, refreshing flavor with a flinty edge. The iconic black bottle should be familiar to everyone. I enjoy it with olives and hard cheeses before dinner.

NV Freixenet Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut
40% Chardonnay, 30% Macabeo, 20% Parellada and 10% Pinot Noir
$18, 12% abv.
Very different grape composition in this one, and the profile reflects it. It's a lot like an entry-level Crémant de Bourgogne with a nice aroma of butter and spice on top. This bottle has the smallest bubbles of the four but maintains a crisp, tart acidity. Really great with a bowl of steamed clams.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Advertising Notes, and Happy Tempranillo Day!

Advertising on this site has always been minimal, and I've primarily just used the Amazon Associates program with links in the sidebars. They're a well known company and millions of people feel comfortable shopping online with them. However, with the launch of Amazon Wine, I've got an opportunity to solve a big problem I've had in the past. Lots of readers e-mail me asking where they can buy a wine featured here, or if I can sell them a bottle. I've always been hesitant to link to specific online retailers, mainly because there's nothing in it for me and I can't personally vouch for or against them. For right now, Amazon can ship wine to the following states: California, Connecticut, Florida, Idaho, Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Nevada, North Carolina, Oregon, Washington, Wyoming and the District of Columbia.

I'm going to play around with the ads and figure out the best way to incorporate them without looking obnoxious. I will continue to link the name of the wine to the specific winery or American distributor whenever possible. My advice to all of my readers is to always support your local wine shop first--if you can't find a specific wine, they should be able to suggest a good substitute. If that doesn't work, check the link to the winery and see if they ship to your state. And if that doesn't work or it's not a domestic wine, follow the links at the bottom of the post and help support your humble wineblogger. If I start seeing positive results, I'll take the time to go back and add purchase links to older posts.

UPDATE Nov. 11, 2012: Looks like Amazon is not paying referrals on wine. Goodbye links!

Now, back to the wine!

Thursday, November 8, 2012 is International Tempranillo Day, coinciding with International Stout Day, which I had to pass on because I stick to either wine or beer--I've found the palate doesn't work with a combination. Also because there's only so much time for tasting between getting home from work and going to bed.

The most notorious wine PR holiday is the Beaujolais Nouveau release, but lots of others have been started like Champagne Day or the lesser known Öküzgözü Day on April 4 in celebration of Turkish grapes. I was happy to join in on this one because of my love of Spanish wines. They are generally tasty, food friendly, and inexpensive: a perfect trio.

On top of this, I also received four Cavas, which I'll be writing about later. Stay tuned!

2011 Tapeña Tempranillo
100% Tempranillo
Tierra de Castilla, Spain
$10, 13.5% abv.
The nose has a touch of cinnamon and black plum. On the palate it's rich and fruity with firm tannins. This is a great middle of the week wine that will go well with casual burgers and pizza fare, and is a great bargain at a sawbuck.

2009 Vaza Rioja Crianza
100% Tempranillo
Rioja, Spain
$15, 13.3% abv.
This is my favorite of the three, and yes, I'm a little biased towards Rioja. The profile here is full of black cherry with a hint of eucalyptus. Mild tannins and balanced fruit and black tea on the tongue. Serve with roast pork and grilled vegetables and be in heaven.

2010 Valdubón Cosecha
100% Tempranillo
Ribera del Duero, Spain
$15, 14% abv.
This wine is pretty young, as right now it's full of cassis and oak with really firm tannins. However, I think it should be great in two years and I'd love to serve it with braised oxtails.

Note: These wines were received as samples.