2012 Salton Intenso Cabernet Franc

My latest column for Snooth is up with a focus on Brazilian food:

Brazilian Cuisine is Begging for Wine

Oddly at the time of writing I did not have any Brazilian wines on hand, but a couple of weeks later one showed up for review. I did a lot of my article research at Brazil Flavor here in the suburbs of Memphis, and they were excited when I finally showed up with a bottle from the home country. It was much better than a lot of the wines that I had at a class in New York in 2013.

Vinícola Salton has been around since 1910 and is the first modern winery in Brazil. Best known for their sparkling wines, the winery produces around 20 million bottles a year including still wines under 50 different labels.

2012 Salton Intenso Cabernet Franc
Campanha Gaúcha, Brazil
100% Cabernet Franc
$15, 13% abv.

Excellent Bordelais characteristics with a focus on green pepper, leather, and touches of black cherry. Smoother and less tannic than you'd expect from the grape and age with a medium body that softens gracefully over the course of an hour. Quite delicious and one of those bottles that would be absolutely perfect for bringing to a blind tasting.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Hourglass Tasting

For the second year in a row, I've gotten the chance to taste a quartet of half bottles from Hourglass Vineyard in Napa Valley. My first tasting was in January 2013 and these were sampled a few months ago.

Napa is still recovering from the recent earthquake, so if you want to support those winemakers, growers, and everyone involved in the local industry, consider drinking a Napa wine this weekend. There has been a lot of damage to barrel rooms and cellars throughout the region, and your wine dollars do make a difference.

2013 Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$40/750ml bottle

This is one of those bottles that I'd love to pour for a blind tasting. Unlike a lot of California Sauvignon Blanc, it is light, gentle, and restrained. There are slight elements of citrus and herbs but the presentation is so delicate. I would serve it with grilled quail and a simple salad.

2012 Blueline Estate Merlot
Napa Valley/Calistoga
91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

The Merlot opens up with aromas of stewed fruits and pencil shavings. The tannins are extremely mild, leading to a soft but long finish. Outstanding with a veal chop seasoned with Herbes de Provence.

2012 Blueline Estate Malbec
Napa Valley/Calistoga
75% Malbec, 25% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

This is a great Bordeaux blend of two grapes that you don't often see in the forefront in that region. Dominant profile of black cherry, with touches of dried cranberry on the back. On the nose there is a pleasant earthiness, while the strong tannins show a wine that should develop beautifully over the next few years. For now, this is a great Saturday night steak wine.

2012 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
83% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot
$135/750ml bottle

The price might seem high for a Cabernet Franc but it will show you just how expressive this tiny grape can be. It is rich and dark with a pronounced cassis flavor. A sniff yields touches of black pepper, chocolate, and leather. The tannins are firm but not overbearing and again, it is one that will only improve with proper aging. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Dry Creek Rosé

We're enjoying an unusually cool May here in Memphis, but it's still warm enough to break out the dry rosé. This lineup of Sonoma pinks come from Dry Creek Valley, a region I had the pleasure of visiting in 2009.

A good dry rosé is the perfect pairing for summer, whether you're talking about a picnic or a barbecue or dinner on the deck with friends. Don't know what your host is serving for dinner? Bring a dry rosé. Even if it's not a perfect match for any of the dishes, it will still be fun to sip while everyone is milling around.

When I'm fixing a multi-course meal, I'll generally start with the rosé and then figure out what would work best with that particular wine. Sometimes it's a salad and sometimes it's the seafood course, but I'll often find myself going back to it later in the meal as a refreshing treat.

The first of these is emphatically not a White Zinfandel. It is a dry rosé that happens to be made from Zinfandel grapes, and should not be confused with the super-sweet product that comprises about 10% of all wine sales in the United States.

NV Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
100% Zinfandel
$12, 13.9% abv.
1,800 Cases Made

This is a fairly deep red for a rosé, with bright raspberry aromas and flavors. Firm body with a bold and fruity finish. A little on the tart side. Recommended for the lover of California reds that is interested in branching out into lighter wines. This could hold up well with a big antipasto platter with lots of cured meats.

2012 Mauritson Rosé
Rockpile Vineyard, Sonoma County
40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Malbec, 25% Merlot
$19, 13.5% abv.
297 Cases Made

Here's a fascinating mix of Bordeaux varieties, and you don't see a lot of Cabernet Franc in rosé. This one has a softer profile with aromas of strawberry and a touch of watermelon. Mild and refreshing with balanced acidity, and I would suggest pairing this one with seared tuna topped with a mango salsa.

2012 Kokomo Pauline's Vineyard Grenache Rosé
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
100% Grenache
13.1% abv.
628 Cases Made

This is the most delicate of the three, and my favorite with a nice pale pink color that looks beautiful in sunlight. While restrained the dominant aroma is of red cherry, but there's a hint of ash and earth in the background. Mild acidity and a light body lead to a gentle finish.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Hourglass Wines Online Tasting

I've written a lot recently about bargain wines, but I am able to appreciate the finer things when given the opportunity. Recently I go to attend an online tasting of Hourglass wines with the owner (Jeff Smith, son of Ned, the founder) and winemaker (Tony Biagi, formerly of Plumpjack). The winery was founded around the famous Judgment of Paris, and Time magazine author George Taber joined us.

The winery is named after the hourglass shape of Napa Valley, specifically the pinch, fractured bedrock formation where the ancient rocks get pushed outwards instead of down. Lots of discussion on fog and heat going through the valleys through this formation, adding a climatic element to the terroir. The vineyards were mostly devoted to Zinfandel, but after a Phylloxera infestation, the vines were replanted in 1991 to showcase more Bordeaux grapes. Ned's widow wanted to sell the property, but Jeff wanted to keep making great wines. It turned out to be a great decision.

We tasted half bottles, all of the prices below are for regular 750mL bottles.

2010 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Merlot
Calistoga, Napa Valley
83% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc
$75, 16.5% abv.
Cassis and cedar, really deep aroma of dark fruit, tart, tangy flavor and finish. A really huge Merlot without being a fruit bomb. Gets smoother and yet still very rich with breathing room.

2010 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Cabernet Franc
Calistoga, Napa Valley
94% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon
$135, 15.2% abv.
20 year old vines. Hard to grow in Napa. Pyrzine gives the herbal characteristic,
Stony and mineral, very delicate touch of the green tobacco leaf. Very mild body, light finish. Really loved this one.

2010 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
100% Cabernet Sauvignon (1 lot of clone 337 [France], 2 separate lots of clone 4 [California])
$125, 15.5% abv.
Notes of red cherry and licorice, flavors of plum and some more of that great mineral undertones.

2010 Hourglass Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$155, 14.9% abv.
Wow, amazing black cherry and leather, chocolate, deep, dark wine. Very light tannins, long, supple finish. Very well structured and highly recommended if you can find it.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Wines of Marie de Beauregard

French wine is often seen as threatening or difficult to understand. That's unfortunate, because there's a lot of great casual and inexpensive wine from the country that just requires a little bit of knowledge and exposure. You don't even have to go there to enjoy the many wonderful valleys and lesser-known AOCs. For example...

The 9th generation Saget La Perrière winery in the Loire Valley makes some of my favorite styles of wine. Cabernet Franc from Chinon? Chenin Blanc from Vouvray? Sancerre??? I didn't get to try the Sancerre from this group, but I will be looking for it in the future.

2010 Marie de Beauregard Vouvray
Touraine, Loire Valley
100% Chenin Blanc
$16, 12.5% abv.

This wine had a big, fruity body dominated by white peach and floral elements. Just a touch of sweetness, balanced acidity, and a long, pleasant finish. Julia really enjoyed this wine, and Vouvray has been a longtime favorite of mine.

I served it with shrimp and grits, a simple salad, and a side dish of homemade cranberry sauce. How can a region so far from the coast produce wines that go so well with shellfish? I have no idea, but I won't argue with it. In theory, this meal was built as sort of a low country Thanksgiving. The grits were cooked with chicken stock and Duranguese cheese, while I quickly sautéed the shrimps with butter, vermouth, and Rogan Josh seasoning. All in all a delightful Saturday lunch, and I had plenty of leftovers, though the wine somehow managed to empty out...

2009 Marie Beauregard Chinon
Touraine, Loire Valley
100% Cabernet Franc
$19, 12.5% abv.

Oh, this was a wonderful Cabernet Franc, and while Julia was not a fan of it, I kept sniffing the glass over and over again. Strong green pepper and eucalyptus, with tobacco, licorice, leather, and black cherry. Loads of great Cab Franc character with fairly mellow tannins. Long finish. Highly recommended. One of the best things about a 100% grape wine like this is that you can understand how it contributes to other Bordeaux blends.

I grilled a burger and topped it with white onion marmalade, Muenster cheese, tomato, arugula, and served with a side of fries. The fries were a little disappointing, but the burger and wine were perfect matches for each other.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Wente Blind Tasting

October 30, 2012: I attend an online wine event and say, "Who the hell drops a Souzao in a blind tasting? This is the best Halloween trick ever."

September 28, 2009: I serve a Mexican wine blind to my friend Fredric.

I have mixed feelings on blind tastings. I used to do them pretty regularly, and actually got good at one point. In order to be decent at the activity you need to taste frequently and do your homework. It can be fun amongst friends, and sometimes instructive amongst newcomers. Sometimes my nose is just way off and it's damned near embarrassing. This Wente Vineyards event was interesting. Participating winebloggers received four bottles tied in black bags, along with a Carnival black eye mask and the admonition not to peek at the labels.

Wine #1: I think it's Syrah. Black cherry and pepper with a little tannic bite and some tart raspberry aftertaste.

2010 Wente Sandstone Merlot
Merlot with Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot
Livermore Valley/San Francisco Bay
$15, 13.5% abv.

These blends were throwing me off, but you've got to warm up a bit. I've taken a punch, I'm ready to deliver an uppercut. On its own, I enjoyed the leftover Merlot with a ham sandwich on rye with lots of stone-ground mustard. Delightful.

Wine #2: I'm guessing Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot. Bigger tannins, cassis, olives, black tea.

2010 Wente Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon with Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot
Livermore Valley/San Francisco Bay
$15, 13.5% abv.

Nothing but net. Great bargain here, and it will class up a thick steak topped with mushrooms.

Wine #3: I was calling this one Merlot heavy, Médoc style. Dark, plum, savory flavors.

2010 Wente Small Lot Cabernet Franc
Livermore Valley
$40, 14.2% abv.

A really smooth and classy Cabernet Franc, which is where I was getting the Médoc notes. Definitely check this out if you ever get the chance, and break out the lamb shoulder for a hearty winter treat.

Wine #4: I suggested Portuguese grapes because of the unique barnyard and black cherry aromas, along with something that reminded me of Douro.

2009 Murietta's Well Los Tesoros de Joaquin Souzao
90% Souzao, 10% Petite Sirah
Livermore Valley
56 cases made
$24, 13.4% abv.

One wineblogger actually nailed it with Souzao, but I'm happy with my guess. This is a great wine that's even better on the next day, where it is light and delicate. Highly recommended if you can encounter one of the 672 bottles produced. Serve this with the best pork you can afford (heritage chops, aged and cured ham, etc.).


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Xavier Flouret Wines

I love the idea behind Xavier Flouret Wines: using a single brand and design, bottles are pulled from wineries around the world. It's a great way to try wines from small, family-run vineyards that might not otherwise see widespread distribution. There are plenty of companies that do this, but Xavier Flouret fills out the back label with information about the winemaker and winery in addition to the tasting notes.

In the past I've reviewed three of their wines, with my favorite still being that beautiful Nationale 7 rosé. Here are the three most recent releases:

2010 Xavier Flouret Fynbos
Bottelary Hills, Stellenbosch
100% Chenin Blanc
$14, 13.8% abv.

Pineapple and peach with a little apricot on the nose. The flavor is far more restrained, with just a dash of acidity and softer tropical fruit flavors than you're expecting. This would be a lot of fun with an old fashioned shrimp cocktail. Make the sauce yourself, boil up the shrimp, and set out a tray with a lot of ice. Fynbos is Afrikaans for "fine bush", and refers to a certain type of scrub vegetation in South Africa. The winemaker is Louis Roos of Mooiplaas Wine Estate.

2007 Xavier Flouret uQamata
Polkadraai Hills, Stellenbosch
36.5% Cabernet Franc, 36.5% Merlot, 12% Malbec, 12% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon
$20, 14.5% abv.

Nice bright raspberry nose with an undercurrent of chocolate and blueberry. Medium tannins and a rich, spicy finish. It's a great Bordeaux-style wine that gives you a lot of that casual claret experience. And it's nice to see something with so much Cabernet Franc in it--not often that you see Cab Sav down at the bottom of the list with a paltry 6%. The unusual name of the wine comes from the Xhosa supreme deity. Carmen Stevens of Amani Vineyards also happens to be the first black female winemaker in South Africa, something that would have been unthinkable 25 years ago.

2007 Xavier Flouret Quattro Canti
Sicily
50% Nero d'Avola, 50% Cabernet Franc
$24, 14% abv.

(Normally I'd just use the flag of Italy, but the Sicilian flag was too good to pass up. Medusa? A triskelion? Wheat? Hard to resist.) I really love these two grapes, and it's interesting to see them paired up with each other. It's an earthy wine, with a nose of granite and stewed fruit. On the palate it's decidedly old world--ancient old world. Almost no fruit, with dirty flavors and a tannic, bitter finish. It's refreshing to try something in this style, with so many wineries going to the full fruit-forward profile. Not for beginners; this is a wine that I would not have enjoyed during my first few years of wine drinking. Quattro Canti (four songs) also comes via a female winemaker, Stefania Lena of Fatascià.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Hahn Estates Wines and Two New Ingredients

As long time readers know I don't often drink the same wine twice. But recently I got a craving for a Cab Franc, and I decided to revisit the 2006 Hahn Cabernet Franc. Only this time, I had an inside connection to Hahn Estates through fellow blogger Wine Diver Girl. I shot off an e-mail asking for any interesting trivia about the wine, something beyond the shelf talkers and data sheets.

I was amazed at the response.

From Winemaker Paul Clifton, explaining how the Cab Franc got popular because of the winery's delicious Meritage:

"I can’t remember specific vintage, but the wines were so good, we decided to bottle up Cab Franc on it’s own for the National Market. (Maybe it was the 02’ vintage). It turned out not to be a great seller. The problem- there wasn’t much demand. I believe it took more than 2 years to sell out of that vintage. So, we tried to kill it as far as offering anymore once we got through that vintage. Six months or so went by and all of a sudden we had folks, particularly on the east coast, asking where it went. The marketing team asked the winery to blend/bottle up a small amount to satisfy the die-hards, so we did. For whatever reason, it started taking off and it is now a mainline wine that we produce."

Assistant Winemaker Greg Freeman chimed in with, "Paul C. nailed it on the head with his info. He doesn’t mention the brilliant job he does with the subtleties of blending that take place in the crafting of this wine, the variations of micro-percentages of related varietals are often what make or break these wines." Greg mentioned that his sister was a huge fan of the Cabernet Franc, so next I heard from Georgeanne Freeman:

"The Hahn Cab Franc (CF) has the aroma and taste of cherries jubilee (with far less sugar than your mother would use), hints of almond and mocha. There's a bit of "dirt" but it's not heavy barnyard; more light & fluffy well composted mulch (think peat moss). It is NOT syrupy (thank you, Paul!)... I like the CF with marzipan (brings out the almond notes), chile rellenos, english trifle, buttery sea bass or steak au pauve."

The recommendation for chile rellenos stuck in my head, and I also happened to have a bag of sunchokes (a.k.a. Jerusalem artichokes) in the fridge. I'd never eaten them before, and despite the resemblance to the iris bulbs my mother used to plant I was really curious. So I decided to make stuffed bell peppers with roasted sunchokes.

But before I go further into the food, what about the wine? I've long maintained that this wine is the perfect way to get to know Cabernet Franc, and after trying the grape on its own you can better appreciate it in Bordeaux or Meritage blends. It's very mild and smooth, with aromas of cherry, chocolate, and green tomato leaves. Flavors are somewhat vegetal with more cooked cherry notes and a touch of toast. Really well put together, and an absolute steal at $13.

I stuffed the peppers with lean ground beef, a little frozen mirepoix (perfect for these dishes), ricotta, mozzarella, various Italian herbs, and Muir Glen chopped tomatoes. The sunchokes were washed, scrubbed, steamed briefly, and then roasted with olive oil, salt, and pepper along with the stuffed peppers. Many recipes recommend peeling sunchokes, but they have an uncooperative topology. Add to that my love of the deep flavor in peels and my hatred of peeling root vegetables, and you get the rustic side dish seen here. Sunchokes are like potatoes crossed with carrots; there's a peppery sweetness that's a lot of fun, and they're very filling for such small tubers.

The wine went along quite well, and my dining companions were pleased with the combination of flavors. Though I must admit the stuffed peppers needed a little tangy punch, ably provided by Heinz 57 sauce. (Sometimes you just have to kick it old school.)

Normally I serve a white wine first with a soup, salad, or seafood course, but this time I reversed matters. Red wine with the simple meal and white wine with dessert. My second new ingredient was quince, which I'd always heard of but never got around to eating. I'm now in love--it looks like a yellow apple, but has a much more interesting flavor. If you click on the picture of the quince you'll get a gigantic version, suitable for use as a desktop background. Out of the thousands of pictures I've taken, portraits of produce make me the most happy, and I love to share them.

I sliced up the quince and sautéed the pieces in butter with a dash of brandy. I toasted a few points of leftover white corn tortillas, sliced up a little chunk of goat cheese that was like Neufchâtel, and drizzled it all with honey. (In retrospect, I realize what I was really craving was a mess of New Mexican sopaipillas.) When I popped open the 2007 Hahn Chardonnay, I was pleasantly surprised with a caramel, buttered popcorn aroma. It's one of those wine scents I haven't encountered in a while, and it went well with the dessert. Nicely oaked with rich pear and caramel flavors.

This was not a fancy dinner party, and frankly the dishes are pretty rustic and basic when you get right down to it. But it was a pleasure to try two wines from the same winery with the simple meal, and the warm and informative responses from the winemaking team only enhanced the experience. Big thanks go out to the good folks at Hahn, and be sure to check out their Meritage as well.

2006 Rémy Pannier Chinon

A few days after meeting the owner while judging a church BBQ contest, I stopped by Forest Hill Wine Merchants out near Collierville at Forest Hill Irene and Poplar. Unlike most wine shops, it's arranged by body and color, not by region. So you start on the left with light Pinot Grigios and work your way around the store to full-strength Zinfandels. Also appreciated is a section set up with recommendations for chicken, pork, beef, etc.

Right between the dry rosés and the Pinot Noirs, I found the 2006 Rémy Pannier Chinon from the Loire Valley of France. $15, 12% abv, 100% Cabernet Franc (though the locals call it Cabernet Breton). Faint berry aromas and light bodied with a tart raspberry profile. I love Loire wines and they're usually a great bargain--you may just have to spend some extra time asking questions or reading labels closely.

I served this with a big veal rib chop and an orzo stuffed bell pepper. A splash of apple cider reduction sauce and a dab of salted butter went on the chop before serving. The lighter body of the Chinon married well with the mild veal and cider sauce. It was easier to cook and more tender than a similar cut of pork but not as full of flavor as a beef ribeye. This cut can be pricey, but it's worth it for the occasional decadent treat. And if you can ever find it, the veal equivalent of a Porterhouse is wonderful. Enjoying this meat properly cooked on the bone is a whole other world than cafeteria-style Weinerschnitzel or scallopini.

2005 Hahn Estates Cabernet Franc

A while back I tried the Hahn Meritage, so whne I saw the 2005 Hahn Estates Cabernet Franc at the wine shop I jumped at the chance. 95% Cabernet Franc, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Santa Lucia Highlands, California, $12. Blackberry, nutmeg, just a touch of Concord grape sweetness and plum flavors on the end. Surprisingly smooth and pleasant for a young Cabernet Franc, with few of the herbal notes that normally find. An excellent wine all around, yet not at all what I imagined.

An additional note: this wine just keeps getting better. I decanted it an hour before serving, and here three hours later it's even smoother and more fruit is coming out in the flavor.

Weekend Wines

Friday night, I grabbed a bottle of the 2003 Bogle Chardonnay, ostensibly for the purposes of cooking. However, it turned out to be a great little sipper. Even though there's some barrel fermentation, you really don't taste it. There's a sweeter, fresh fruit taste that was unexpected (as opposed to the old overripe fruit you get in a lot of Chardonnay). Highly recommended. $10.

Saturday afternoon, I made an impulse purchase of the Bouvet Ladubay Rosé Excellence, a Loire sparkling wine made solely from Cabernet Franc. This is a very rare thing, and the only other sparkling Cabernet Franc I've ever seen was a thing of pure magic I had at a dinner party last year. Unfortunately, I wasn't really impressed with this wine. There was little or no flavor, just heavy fizz and a bitter aftertaste from the notoriously tannic grape. Beautiful color, but ultimately disappointing. $15.