2012 Scotto Family Cellars Malbec

This is my third review of a wine from the Scotto winemaking family of Lodi. First I tried the 2011 50 Harvests Cabernet Sauvignon, followed by the 2012 50 Harvests Meritage. Though it was also fun to try the younger generation's hard cider (and one of those guys, Paul Scotto, made this wine). This is also a continuation of my exploration of the wines of Lodi. While I'd obviously enjoyed Lodi juice for years (whether I knew it or not), my perspective changed a lot after my visit to the region last April. There are so many interesting things going on there right now, and it's amazing to watch as Lodi makes a push for national recognition and achieving the true potential of their historic vineyards.

This particular bottle is of a specific category that always makes me do a double take, or check the label carefully: California Malbec. Granted, the grape was widely used for table wine production in pre-Prohibition days, but modern domestic production didn't really start ramping up until Argentina made the grape popular in the 1990s. It's still not something you see a lot of despite the more traditional use of Malbec for blending Meritage.

Much has been said about the trendiness of Malbec, but hipsters have a unique opportunity to carve out a niche when perusing the wine list. "Sorry, but do you have any... California Malbec in the cellar?"

2012 Scotto Family Cellars Malbec
Lodi, California
97% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc
$15, 13% abv.

Part of the reason for the current popularity of Malbec is that it's a fairly easygoing, fruit-forward wine that also happens to be generally quite affordable. Your $15 Malbec from anywhere is probably going to have a better quality-price ratio than a $15 Pinot Noir. This bottle shows aromas of dark berries with a touch of chocolate. On the palate it is smooth with a little bit of a tart finish. Though fruity, it does not veer into sweetness and instead has a rather interesting aftertaste of plum and a hint of earth.

A Malbec like this will pair with a wide range of foods, but since I'm currently sitting here in below freezing weather with sleet pinging against the windows, I think it would be great with a nice heap of BBQ brisket. Some may think that I'm violating my Memphis heritage by wanting to eat what Texans consider BBQ, but the reality of the situation is that most places around here do a pretty good brisket in addition to our region's more well-known pork ribs and shoulders. Memphis beef brisket: a curiosity to pair with California Malbec.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Five Wines from Coppola

Over the years I've tried a lot of wines from Francis Coppola Winery. The names and brands have changed over time, but these five labels appear to be sticking around.

I visited the Sonoma winery back in 2009 and have often recommended these bottles as reliable choices that are widely distributed throughout the United States.

2011 Francis Coppola Diamond Chardonnay
Monterey County
100% Chardonnay
$16, 13.5% abv.

Buttered popcorn, touch of vanilla and caramel. Bright acidity but a fairly round body with a woody aftertaste.

2011 Francis Coppola Diamond Malbec
California
89% Malbec, 7% Syrah, 4% Petite Sirah
$18, 13.1% abv.

Bright plum aroma with touches of leather and coffee. Round mouthfeel, low tannins, and a tart finish. Inky black color, but lighter than expected on the palate.

2011 Francis Coppola Diamond Claret
California
79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc
$21, 13.5% abv.

Blackberries, blueberries, cassis, chocolate, coffee, medium tannins, long dark fruit finish.

2012 Sofia Rosé
Monterey County, California
55% Syrah, 35% Pinot Noir, 10% Grenache
$19, 12.5% abv.

A favorite of mine, and one that I love to give as a gift. Light strawberry flavors with bright acidity and a generally fun wine. Adaptable to a wide range of foods.

2012 Francis Coppola Director's Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast, California
100% Pinot Noir
$21, 13.5% abv.

Very light garnet color, delicate wild strawberry aromas, mild acidity, low tannins, long finish.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Hourglass Tasting

For the second year in a row, I've gotten the chance to taste a quartet of half bottles from Hourglass Vineyard in Napa Valley. My first tasting was in January 2013 and these were sampled a few months ago.

Napa is still recovering from the recent earthquake, so if you want to support those winemakers, growers, and everyone involved in the local industry, consider drinking a Napa wine this weekend. There has been a lot of damage to barrel rooms and cellars throughout the region, and your wine dollars do make a difference.

2013 Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$40/750ml bottle

This is one of those bottles that I'd love to pour for a blind tasting. Unlike a lot of California Sauvignon Blanc, it is light, gentle, and restrained. There are slight elements of citrus and herbs but the presentation is so delicate. I would serve it with grilled quail and a simple salad.

2012 Blueline Estate Merlot
Napa Valley/Calistoga
91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

The Merlot opens up with aromas of stewed fruits and pencil shavings. The tannins are extremely mild, leading to a soft but long finish. Outstanding with a veal chop seasoned with Herbes de Provence.

2012 Blueline Estate Malbec
Napa Valley/Calistoga
75% Malbec, 25% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

This is a great Bordeaux blend of two grapes that you don't often see in the forefront in that region. Dominant profile of black cherry, with touches of dried cranberry on the back. On the nose there is a pleasant earthiness, while the strong tannins show a wine that should develop beautifully over the next few years. For now, this is a great Saturday night steak wine.

2012 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
83% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot
$135/750ml bottle

The price might seem high for a Cabernet Franc but it will show you just how expressive this tiny grape can be. It is rich and dark with a pronounced cassis flavor. A sniff yields touches of black pepper, chocolate, and leather. The tannins are firm but not overbearing and again, it is one that will only improve with proper aging. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Kaiken Wines of Argentina

Kaiken Wines was founded in Argentina in 2002 by a Chilean winemaker, Aurelio Montes. The two countries produce very different styles of wine but there's no reason not to celebrate both.

The name of the winery comes from the upland goose or caiquén that migrates back and forth over the Andes between the two countries. Both of these bottles celebrate Argentina's most famous grape and do so in an impressive manner.

I would strongly recommend both of these wines with a wide assortment of grilled meats. You can't recreate a full churrascaria in your home but now that the weather is getting nice, don't be afraid to toss a little lamb or goat on the grill along with the beef, chicken, and sausages. Although summer is the traditional time for outdoor cooking, I get so much more pleasure from it when it's cool or cold. Nothing better than sitting on the back porch with the smoker for a few hours without sweating or having to deal with bugs. And if you happen to get cold, just move a little closer to the fire box.

2011 Kaiken Terroir Series Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
80% Malbec, 12% Bonarda, 8% Petit Verdot
$12, 14.5% abv.

Chocolate, leather, a touch of tobacco on the edge. Firm tannins, big dark berry flavors. I love a blend like this, and it's a good bargain. Definitely chewy, but perfect for those sizzling slices of beef or lamb.

2011 Kaiken Ultra Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
96% Malbec, 4% Cabernet Sauvignon
$22, 14.8% abv.

Black cherry, leather, coffee, medium tannins, long finish. The more serious of the two, I'd save this for the more tender rare cuts of beef. It is still strong enough that flavorful seasonings and smoke will not cancel out the great elements of the wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Nuvino Wine Pouches

While tasting the wines from Nuvino packaged in foil pouches, I did not think about Capri Sun as much as I did the space program, and how it felt like the kind of beverage packaging that one would need in zero gravity. That took me back to something I made last year for an April Fools post that I ended up scrapping, but I still like the fake label that I made for a hypothetical wine made on board the International Space Station.

On the 45th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing, I found myself sipping wine out of a foil/plastic pouch of the sort that would be very convenient on the ISS or other spacecraft. Indeed, fellow Presbyterian Buzz Aldrin celebrated communion on the moon with a little vial of wine, and of course the Russians have had no problem sending up adult libations over the years. (There was an early idea to provide astronauts with sherry on Skylab, but that got nixed and since then the US space program has had a zero alcohol policy.)

These four wines are packaged in 187mL pouches made by PreservPak and marketed by Nuvino. Each pouch is a single serving and retails for $4, which is a fairly good bargain since you're getting a fourth of a bottle versus the traditional fifth in a glass.

2013 Sauvignon Blanc
Maule Valley, Chile
13% abv.

Clean and mild, gentle Meyer lemon flavors. Round body and a quick finish.

2013 Chardonnay
Cape Winelands, South Africa
13.5% abv.

Light apricot, no oak, mild finish. Really very delicate for a Southern hemisphere Chardonnay.

2013 Malbec
Maipu, Argentina
14.5% abv.

Dominant profile of prune and stewed fruits with a little ash and leather.

2013 Red Blend
Swan Hill, Australia
13.9% abv.

Blackberry and chocolate with firm tannins and a long, lingering finish.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 Gnarly Head Malbec

A little site news first... Be sure to check out my latest post on PalatePress.com, in which I discuss awkward wine moments I've experienced. I've told a few of these stories here before, but I go into more depth in this new article. Also, I was recently interviewed by Jameson Fink for Grape Collective. There are some neat stories coming up in the next month, but I don't want to spoil anything quite this early.

On to the wine!

Even though the weather is getting warmer, it's still nice enough to enjoy some great reds before the searing Memphis heat turns our attention toward clean, crisp whites and fruity rosés. While Gnarly Head is most known for their Old Vine Zin, they've launched an Argentine Malbec as well. I would recommend both for your steak and burger nights, perhaps like the old 3Bs guys' nights that Paul and I enjoyed for years while he was still living in Memphis (3Bs = beef, booze, bad movies).

2012 Gnarly Head Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
100% Malbec
$12, 13.5% abv.

Mild and fruity with great black plum aromas and flavors. Gentle tannins and soft acidity contribute to the round mouthfeel, and the good dark fruit shows well at a range of temperatures. Good bargain and it should be easy to find anywhere in the country.

Look at that! A sighting of a Nomacorc! It's pretty cool knowing that I've seen the actual machine that produced and cut that cork, as well as all of the equipment used in the testing and research. While I'll have some more details on the cork factory in the future, I'd highly recommend checking out this video of the factory shot by my friends at Wine Folly. It will give you the brief tour of how the synthetic corks are extruded and sliced.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Argento Malbec

Malbec was a grape that I fell in love with early in my wine self-education. So many of the Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots that I could afford were not that great, not to mention some of the terrible Pinot Noirs that I purchased for under $10. Truly some of the finest red wines in the world come from the classic giants, but in Argentine Malbec I found red wines of great balance and tremendous flavor that were inexpensive, ready to drink now, and outstanding with the simple delight of a grilled ribeye.

Argento was founded in 1998 in the Mendoza region of Argentina, and I've had the chance to try many of them over the years, and of course for this tasting I used my special Riedel Malbec glass.

2012 Argento Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
100% Malbec
$13, 13.9% abv.

Initial aromas of black cherry and a touch of pepper, a little leather, and just a touch of spice on the finish. Tart raspberry acidity and firm tannins mean that this one benefits from a good decanting before serving. Excellent with a rustic grilled lamb dish.

2011 Argento Reserva Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
100% Malbec
$17, 13.9% abv.

The reserve version displayed a big dark plum profile with touches of leather, coffee, and chocolate. Medium tannins and a bold finish. I loved the balance and complexity of this one, and for $17, it is an outstanding bargain. Grill up the biggest Porterhouse you can find and top it with some herbed butter before serving.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Snooth Argentina Tasting with Doña Paula

A while back, I got the chance to rejoin my friends from Snooth.com for an online tasting of wines from Doña Paula of Argentina. Founded in 1990, the winery offers a range of about a dozen wines.

2012 Doña Paula Estate Chardonnay
Valle de Uco
100% Chardonnay
$15, 14.1% abv.

The white wine has peach and floral notes, a round body, and brassy acidity. It would be great with roast duck, where the acidity would cut through the rich fat of the skin.

2011 Doña Paula Estate Torrontés
Valle de Cafayate
100% Torrontés
$15, 13.5% abv.

Tropical fruits, nice hint of pineapple, mineral base, medium acidity, stony. Dried fruit finish. Torrontés is an interesting grape and one that deserves a lot more attention. This one would be perfect with a nice crisp salad that included fresh fruits and walnuts along with bleu cheese.

2011 Doña Paula Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Luján de Cuyo
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$15, 14.1% abv.

Major notes of blackberry and blueberry, round dark fruit flavors, and a medium tannic finish. Definitely one to pair with savory roast pork loin.

2011 Doña Paula Estate Malbec
Valle de Uco
100% Malbec
$15, 14.1% abv.

Quite bright for a Malbec, with lots of tart red cherry aromas and flavors and a biting tannic structure. I would be anxious to try this one after another two or three years of aging to let it soften out a bit. For the moment, it would be a good choice for serving with a grilled burger topped with lots of onions, a dish that would fight back against the wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Red Rock Winery

I first wrote about the wines of Red Rock Winery back in 2008 when I braised a turkey leg in blueberries.

Red Rock only makes red wines, and these four bottles represent the entire product line. The grapes are sourced from throughout California vineyards to produce table wines in a big fruit, classic Golden State style. Keep these in mind as great matches for burgers, pizza... I affectionately refer to wines like these as "Tuesday night wines": not a special occasion, but more something that you open up after a long day at work and while having a normal weekday meal rather than a complex preparation of squid ink pasta with slices of raw scallops.

2011 Red Rock Winery Malbec
California
$14, 13.6% abv.

Although marked as a Malbec, California law only requires that 75% of the grapes are in the mix to bear the varietal name. For instance, this one includes Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon to add depth and structure. Dominant notes of plum and black pepper with a firm tannic understructure contributed by the darker grapes.

2012 Red Rock Winery Pinot Noir
California
$14, 13.6% abv.

A fairly standard bargain California Pinot Noir with lots of ripe strawberry aromas, mild tannins, and a short but tart finish. The most gentle of the quartet, though not quite delicate enough to pair with salmon.

2011 Red Rock Winery Merlot
California
$14, 13.74% abv.

A bright and fruity California Merlot full of black cherry aromas and flavors with a touch of spice. Round body and a long, mouth-drying finish.

2011 Red Rock Winery Winemaker's Blend
California
Proprietary Blend of Petite Sirah, Syrah, Zinfandel
$14, 13.5% abv.

The last one was my favorite of the batch, and represented a solid blend that achieved good balance. The initial sniff reveals dark blackberry and deep black fruit scents with matching flavors. Not jammy, but trending in that direction. The wine shows firm tannins with a long finish. Decanting is highly recommended to soften and further balance the wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Wines of Bodega Catena Zapata

I was recently invited to attend a tasting of the wines of Bodega Catena Zapata, which has been operating in Argentina since the early 1900s. The third generation winery has achieved stunning success and we had the pleasure of tasting their collectible top line.

Although I am not a collector, these are priced fairly reasonably between $90-130. I say reasonably because they have outscored far more expensive wines in blind tastings and demonstrate great aging potential. The representative pointed out that it would be possible to sell these wines for much more, but that it was the choice of the winemaker to keep them at this level. It should also be noted that most of the reds were being sampled before actual release maturity, meaning that they'll be much better in a few years. The current vintage being sold in Argentina is 2006, while these were from 2008-2010. (There's also the complicating factor that the oceanic voyage adds about a year of aging in a short time due to temperature fluctuations and motion.)

Fredric Koeppel, Michael Hughues, and a lot of wine shop representatives were present for the lunch at Erling Jensen's, a classy fine dining establishment named after the owner and head chef. I've had Jensen's food before at a few events, but this was my first time dining there. And though we only had two courses, they were delicious. We didn't get told precisely what we were eating, but to the best of my knowledge this is sea bass over toasted brioche with a lobster cream sauce. Silky, rich, yet not too heavy. Just enough to enjoy the flavors of each ingredient. However, it was even better with the following white wines...

The two Chardonnays came as a huge surprise. In a blind tasting these would easily be distinguished for fine white Burgundy, and they've gone from comparing the wines to that general AOC to specifying specific subregions.

2010 Catena White Stones Chardonnay
Mendoza, Adrianna Vineyard
100% Chardonnay
$93, 13% abv.

Touches of honey and light floral elements with a bit of vanilla. Deep and rich with concentrated flavors, bright acidity, and a beautiful golden color.

2010 Catena White Bones Chardonnay
Mendoza, Adrianna Vineyard
100% Chardonnay
$125, 13% abv.

For every 10 barrels of White Stones, only 1 barrel of White Bones is made. Though made nearby, the terroir is different creating a wine with notes of wet stone and earth with just a little touch of lemon in the background. Once again, bright and firm acidity with some playful citrus notes. Going back and forth between the two was a wonderful experience. However, as the plates and glasses were cleared, we prepared our palates for a substantial lineup of red wines.

Beef tenderloin over mashed cauliflower with a sauce espagnole. I believe that the tenderloin was lightly smoked, but it was tender and while the overall dish was uncomplicated, it was well-executed and savory without being overfilling. Just enough to enjoy between sips of the following:

2009 Catena Adrianna Vineyard Malbec
Mendoza, Adrianna Vineyard
100% Malbec
$130, 13.9% abv.

Raspberry and a touch of brambles with a slight bitter note. Strong tannins, very tart with notes of leather and tobacco that emerged a bit as it breathed. All wines were tasted straight from the bottle without decanting, and as I said, a lot of these have a really strong structure now that is going to unwind into a much gentler profile in a few years (as the last wines will indicate.)

2008 Catena Argentino Malbec
Mendoza, Adrianna/Nicasia Vineyards
100% Malbec
$130, 14% abv.

Earth and straw aromas, with plum and black cherry flavors dominating on the tongue. Tart with medium tannins and a firm finish.

2008 Catena Nicasia Vineyard Malbec
Mendoza, Nicasia Vineyard
100% Malbec
$115, 14% abv.

Deep black cherry and licorice, dark and chewy, very concentrated with a long finish. Out of many of the reds, I'd be really interested in seeing how this develops over the next five to ten years.

2008 Nicolás Catena Zapata
Mendoza, four vineyards
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Malbec
$130, 14% abv.

Really stunning and sublime for a relatively young wine. Much of the complexity of the above wines but softer in every regard, allowing gentle cherry, chocolate, and oak aromas to emerge. Very long finish and quite fascinating.

1999 Nicolás Catena Zapata
Mendoza, La Piramide/Adrianna Vineyards
82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 % Malbec
$?, 13.8% abv.

This wine is available in limited quantities and represents the second release of the Nicolás Catena Zapata. Perfect aging with dark fruits and gentle spice dominating the profile, yet with no one element overpowering the other. Soft tannins and much of the tartness from the younger wines was gone. It reminded me a lot of Barolo tastings in terms of how rewarding a decade or more can be in terms of the right grapes in the hands of the right winemaker. While I don't know if any other readers will get a chance to try this before the vintage is gone, it does provide a lot of promise for those still-availble wines from 4-5 years ago.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Dry Creek Rosé

We're enjoying an unusually cool May here in Memphis, but it's still warm enough to break out the dry rosé. This lineup of Sonoma pinks come from Dry Creek Valley, a region I had the pleasure of visiting in 2009.

A good dry rosé is the perfect pairing for summer, whether you're talking about a picnic or a barbecue or dinner on the deck with friends. Don't know what your host is serving for dinner? Bring a dry rosé. Even if it's not a perfect match for any of the dishes, it will still be fun to sip while everyone is milling around.

When I'm fixing a multi-course meal, I'll generally start with the rosé and then figure out what would work best with that particular wine. Sometimes it's a salad and sometimes it's the seafood course, but I'll often find myself going back to it later in the meal as a refreshing treat.

The first of these is emphatically not a White Zinfandel. It is a dry rosé that happens to be made from Zinfandel grapes, and should not be confused with the super-sweet product that comprises about 10% of all wine sales in the United States.

NV Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
100% Zinfandel
$12, 13.9% abv.
1,800 Cases Made

This is a fairly deep red for a rosé, with bright raspberry aromas and flavors. Firm body with a bold and fruity finish. A little on the tart side. Recommended for the lover of California reds that is interested in branching out into lighter wines. This could hold up well with a big antipasto platter with lots of cured meats.

2012 Mauritson Rosé
Rockpile Vineyard, Sonoma County
40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Malbec, 25% Merlot
$19, 13.5% abv.
297 Cases Made

Here's a fascinating mix of Bordeaux varieties, and you don't see a lot of Cabernet Franc in rosé. This one has a softer profile with aromas of strawberry and a touch of watermelon. Mild and refreshing with balanced acidity, and I would suggest pairing this one with seared tuna topped with a mango salsa.

2012 Kokomo Pauline's Vineyard Grenache Rosé
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
100% Grenache
13.1% abv.
628 Cases Made

This is the most delicate of the three, and my favorite with a nice pale pink color that looks beautiful in sunlight. While restrained the dominant aroma is of red cherry, but there's a hint of ash and earth in the background. Mild acidity and a light body lead to a gentle finish.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Dinner on the Mountain

Following our lunch on the mountain, I cleaned up the kitchen and zoned out for an hour while the others went to look around the Winthrop Rockefeller Institute and visit a local farmer's market. (I passed Julia a twenty and asked her to grab whatever she wanted--she brought back sheep's milk cheese, honey, and peach jam. All delicious.)

There's a substantial cattle raising operation on the mountain and surrounding area, focused on the Santa Gertrudis breed. Producing the Santa Gertrudis is a little complicated, requiring 3/8 Brahman Bos indicus and 5/8 Shorthorn Bos taurus. The benefit of this hybridization is a cow that puts on a lot of meat but can tolerate hot and dry climates. I was taking photos of some of the calves when this heifer started racing towards me.

Speaking of heifers, the Institute donates some cattle to Heifer International, a charity organization that provides livestock for people in developing nations. Instead of just sending food, they send healthy and hearty chickens and bees and cows and other animals that can help build sustainable food-producing operations in places where people are hungry.

For dinner that evening, I started out with a selection of cheeses, capicola, and pickles. Folks nibbled and sipped on a little wine before I served my sweet potato soup, requested by Molly and Julia. I made it a little differently this time, omitting the chicken stock and focusing on the flavors of sweet potato and ginger and Riesling. I liked it, but the soup is good either way.

2012 Bokisch Vineyards Albariño
Terra Alta Vineyard, Lodi, California
100% Albariño
$18, 12.5% abv.

Bright and tart with great citrus aromas and flavors. The acidity worked well with the slightly spicy soup. I'm excited about what American winemakers are doing with Albariño.

2012 LangeTwins Sangiovese Rosé
Lodi, California
100% Sangiovese
$13, 12.5% abv.

With the rosé, I made another repeat dish, grilled shrimp with sweet peppers and a salad. This pink wine had dominant elements of wild strawberry and lemon, dry but with full fruit flavors. A very pleasant weekend sipper.

Paul provided the main course of a ribeye roast while I prepared the side dishes: roasted cipollinis, grilled asparagus, and a homemade horseradish sauce. When you're putting this much beef on the table, it's time to open four wines. Continuing with Lodi:

2011 St. Amant Winery Mohr-Fry Old Vine Zinfandel
Lodi, California
$18, 15.5% abv.

Anna really enjoyed this particular wine, which was rich and dark with aromas of black cherry and pepper. Just a little hint of that chocolate and bramble that you can get from the older vines.

2011 Michael David Winery Bechtold Vineyard Ancient Vine Cinsault
Lodi, California
100% Cinsault
$20, 13.8% abv.

I was really excited to try this wine. You don't see a lot of single-variety Cinsault, even from France, and I had a great lunch with the CEO of Michael David when he came to Memphis a few years ago. Produced from 127-year old vines, this wine goes deep with an earthy nose of beef and leather, though red cherry elements start to emerge later. Smooth and tasty with a lingering finish. Highly recommended, and a great bargain.

We continued with a pair of wines from Argentina.

2010 Altimus Estate
Cafayate, Argentina
40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Malbec, 15% Bonarda, 5% Tannat, and 5% Syrah
$35, 15% abv.

Aromas of prunes and dried cherries, with a tart and slightly acidic flavor. Quite a big wine, and one that was well suited to the slow-roasted beef.

2009 Finca Flichman Dedicado
Mendoza, Argentina
85% Malbec, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Syrah
$30, 14.5% abv.

The first thing that strikes you is that this is one heavy bottle, taller and thicker than usual. However, inside the wine is not something that needed to be in a maximum security prison--you get lots of great red fruit flavors, with red cherry, cassis, and raspberry. With breathing, deeper undertones of wood and leather begin to develop.

As is my custom, with everyone fed and multiple rounds of dishes washed and many courses served, I retired to the living room with a glass of the Cinsault and relaxed. Paul and Anna took care of the last round of dishes, and everyone milled around, trying the many wines of the evening, but mostly talking and having a good time. That's what a successful dinner party is all about, and why I was excited to recreate the ribeye roast dinner that Paul and I used to put on when he lived here in Memphis.

Anna took care of dessert with her pots de crème, made without completely melting the chocolate so that tiny chunks of solid chocolate remained, providing a toothsome texture. The eggs used to make the dish came from her own chickens, and the result was decadent and rich.

We stayed up past midnight, and then one by one retired to the back bedrooms of the guest house. Needless to say, I slept like a rock in the quiet, cool mountain air. Can't wait to go back!

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

2011 Graffigna Malbec

I am notoriously bad about wine PR holidays. This wine and glass came about as a result of Malbec World Day on April 17. Well, it's nearly May, but here goes...

Ridel has unveiled a Malbec glass, tall and with a bowl that is almost egg-shaped with the tip sliced off. It's slender and does not quite fit in any of my cupboards, but is quite elegant. I admire the craftsmanship that goes into Ridel's crystal, though I don't own much of it--I have dozens of unmatched glasses, and over the years some break and get replaced by gifts or samples like this one.

Do you really need a special Malbec glass? For that matter, is it vital to have different Pinot Noir glasses for Burgundy and Oregon?

I am a natural skeptic, and poured the wine into the special glass as well as a regular wine glass, and was prepared to point out to Julia that it didn't make a difference, and then... color me surprised.

I won't say that the wine was better in the Malbec glass, but sniffing it was a much different experience. The fact that you're sniffing in a smaller aperture tends to concentrate and focus the aromas. Going back and forth was a fascinating experience.

2011 Graffigna Centenario Reserve Malbec
Tulum and Pedernal Valley, San Juan, Argentina
100% Malbec
$16, 14.2% abv.

While in the regular glass I got just dark fruit, the Riedel glass focused in on more specific dried plum and leather aromas. Hint of coffee in the background, and great structure from the oak. The taste was not impacted in either direction, though on the palate it was mild with gentle tannins and a long, dark fruit finish. I served it with grilled chicken, and then later enjoyed it with a pepperoni pizza. Perfect match with the latter on a quiet Saturday night, watching a movie and relaxing.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample.

Lunch on the Mountain

In late April, I made my second visit to the Winthrop Rockefeller Institute on Petit Jean Mountain in central Arkansas. Julia's friend Molly runs the restaurant at the Institute, and we picked a weekend to run up there again and enjoy a peaceful and relaxing vacation away from the city. This time we were lucky to include my longtime friend, brother from another mother, mister please please please himself, Paul Jones. I hadn't seen Paul in forever, and he was kind enough to bring his better half Anna along with him.

While it's not a bad drive from Memphis (4-5 hours depending on traffic and I-40 construction), the last leg is well off the beaten path, so it's good to pack a few coolers with all the essentials. And I brought many essentials. Three different kinds of vinegar, sixteen different kinds of bitters, a mixed case of a dozen wine samples, plus a ton of food. Paul was 90 minutes behind us with a ribeye roast and the ingredients necessary to make a proper Manhattan. These things are important.

Friday evening we had our dinner with a lot of Julia and Molly's friends at the River Rock Grill at the Institute. Loads of great dishes and conversations that night, but I'm going to dive into our lunch Saturday, when I decided to bring the Munchkin burger to Petit Jean Mountain.

I formed 2 oz. hockey pucks of ground beef, liberally seasoned with soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and in this instance, Penzey's Mitchell Street seasoning. Butter grilled slider buns, a healthy dollop of my famous red onion marmalade, a scoop of Cambozola, and a few other fixins paired with kettle chips and a homemade aïoli tinged with Sriracha sauce. I also did cheddar toppings for those that preferred a milder burger, and of course I opened a jar of garlic-dill gherkins that we've come to know as baybay pickles.

When I say I came prepared, I came prepared.

Friend of both Paul and me, the inimitable Dave R. passed along the following bottle that brought back a lot of good memories. I was a huge fan of the Bogle Petite Sirah in my early wine days and continue to admire the winery for the great bottles they produce.

2010 Bogle Essential Red
California
31% Zinfandel, 26% Petite Sirah, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Syrah
$11, 13.5%

Lots of great fruit in this wine, with aromas of plum and bright red cherry and pie crust. Firm tannins show up on the finish, but overall it is a great jammy sipper that paired quite well with the lunch, and given the great price, this one has a great QPR and is highly recommended.

Earlier in the meal I opened up a pair of Paso Robles wines from Tower 15 Winery.

2012 Tower 15 Sauvignon Blanc
Paso Robles
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$19, 13.2% abv.

Loads of bright acidity here, with flavors of lemon and apricot. Nice crisp finish. Should be served with shellfish and salad.

2012 Tower 15 Sunset Rosé
Paso Robles
93% Grenache, 7% Pinot Noir
$19, 13.7% abv.

Great raspberry elements in this dry but crisp and tangy rosé. Light, onion-skin color, with a great tart finish. These two wines were perfect for appetizers of cheese and pickles, and the convenient screwcaps were even better, because I could just hand a bottle to someone and have him serve it without fumbling for a corkscrew. Highly recommended for the upcoming summer.

Burgers with red onion marmalade, even made in the petite form, do still require a hearty red wine, and I had a pair of Argentine bottles from Alamos Wines. These were great with the griddled Munchkin burgers...

2012 Alamos Red Blend
Mendoza, Argentina
Proprietary blend of Malbec, Bonarda and Tempranillo
$13, 13.5% abv.

Brambly with those nutty elements of raspberry seeds, with good touches of earth and a slightly vegetal finish. This wine was well-received around the table.

2012 Alamos Malbec
Uco Valley, Argentina
100% Malbec
$13, 13.7% abv.

I preferred this one, which was a solid bargain Malbec. Notes of plum and spice with medium tannins and a long finish. I've had this wine so many times over the years and still consider it a solid performer in its weight class.

Coming up soon... Dinner on the Mountain!

Note: These wines were received as samples.

2009 Château St. Didier-Parnac

I will never stop being fascinated by the little nooks of the French wine world... Places that use an odd bottle (like the 62cL format of Jura) or a lesser known grape like Tannat in Madiran.

I had an early fascination with the Cahors region. After growing to love Argentine Malbec, I wondered how it would taste if made in its native France, in a small corner of the southwest. I have to thank Tom Rickert for my first bottle of Cahors, which was a gift and, alas, spoiled. I also have to thank him for being kind enough to find a second bottle which was delightful and represented my first true taste of this tiny region.

Seven years later I'm getting to sample a lovely Cahors on a rainy Sunday afternoon while eating Munchkin burgers with Julia. And yet, after many other Cahors and thousands of other bottles, I still retain my enchantment.

2009 Château St. Didier-Parnac
Cahors AOC
80% Malbec, 15% Merlot, 5% Tannat
$18, 13% abv.

Although it has a few years of age this wine remains dark. Aromas of black cherry and tobacco leaf lead in to a deep red with flavors of plum and stewed fruit and coffee. Touches of leather on the finish. The tannins have mellowed from what I imagine was a fairly strong young wine, leading to a glass that is mild and refreshing. Incredible depth and a great price makes this wine highly recommended.

Though I sampled this with sliders topped with red onion marmalade and smoked Gouda, I do think that the most perfect pairing would come from roast lamb aggressively studded with garlic and rosemary.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

2011 Ruta 22 Malbec

While Mendoza is the wine powerhouse of Argentina, there are other regions within the country that are not as well known here in the Northern Hemphisphere. This wine comes from the Neuquén Valley of Patagonia, south of Mendoza and west of Buenos Aires. The chalky soil means that most of the country's sparkling wine is made there, but they also produce Argentina's most well known grape, Malbec.

The name Ruta 22 refers to a national highway that runs from the east coast port of Bahia Blanca and ends in the western vineyards of Neuquén. The brand is in the portfolio of the Chilean-Argentine partnership Dos Andes, who also make one of the most delightfully named wines ever: Lai Lai from the Bio Bio region.

2011 Ruta 22 Malbec
Neuquén Valley, Patagonia
100% Malbec
$11, 14.5% abv.

There's a nose of ash and wet stone with black plum notes underneath. Full dark fruit flavor with firm tannins and a long aftertaste. Not jammy, but fairly well balanced. I served this with grilled cheeseburgers, and think that it would work well with lots of casual fare.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

2010 Argento Malbec

When I reviewed the 2009 Argento Malbec two years ago, the unique thing about this wine was the use of a QR Code on the back label. I wondered if it would catch on, and since then I've seen the little blocks everywhere, including on other brands of wine. (Though I'm always a little bothered to see them on the backs of buses and commercial vehicles...)

To update, I still don't use a smart phone, so I don't personally use these codes. However, I do see people using them a lot in the grocery store, or snapping a shot of one from the corner of a poster or advertisement.

As summer is winding down, we're entering the months when I crave heavier and darker reds. Time for slow braises and roasted root vegetables that warm the kitchen and make the entire house smell wonderful. Let's kick off red season with an Argentine Malbec.

2010 Argento Malbec
Mendoza (Luján de Cuyo, Tunuyán and Tupungato)
100% Malbec
$12, 13.5% abv.

Black cherry and chocolate with a firm tannic undertone. A little sour cherry flavor lingers on the finish for a long time. I preferred the 2009 Argento Malbec Reserva, and at just a few dollars more, it's a much better bargain. Still, this one would work well at a BBQ or with a casual burger.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

Clayhouse Reds

Going back through my notes I noticed that I've reviewed a lot of Clayhouse wines over the past couple of years. Across the many different varieties I've noticed consistent quality along with affordable prices, which is a great combination. Add in convenient screwcaps and you've got a reliable choice when you stop at the wine shop on the way to a party or casual dinner.

2010 Clayhouse Vineyard Syrah
Paso Robles, California
100% Syrah
$15, 13.8% abv.

Black cherry and black pepper aromas with a bold fruit profile. Slight bite on the finish with lingering tannins. This one was great with pepperoni pizza.

2010 Clayhouse Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
Paso Robles, California
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot
$15, 13.5% abv.

This one was actually sent by mistake--the 2009 is the current release and this 2010 will be coming out next year. But I like the combination and the Petit Verdot brought forth a great depth along with some floral aromas. The tannins are still strong here, but I'm excited to see what it's like in another two years.

2010 Clayhouse Vineyard Malbec
Paso Robles, California
100% Malbec
$15, 13.6% abv.

Soft and plummy, good dark fruit flavors but restrained in presentation. Mild and easily drinkable now, and a great bargain. California Malbec is really starting to surprise me.


Note: These wines were received as samples.