2012 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon

This is the third vintage of Faust that I've tried following the 2005 and 2011 releases. Previously I've tried these bottles on my own at home, but this one showed up at the family Christmas dinner last year.

I brought Austrian dessert wines for my Mom and sister-in-law, but Faust was chosen specifically for Dad who had spent the afternoon smoking a ribeye roast to a perfect rare in the middle using his Big Green Egg. With fresh horseradish sauce and Mom's amazing sweet potato casserole, it made for the perfect pairing. You don't necessarily have to wait for a big family holiday to enjoy a serious Napa red, but it's so much more enjoyable to share with loved ones.

That's why I love a good dinner party. We shouldn't have Thanksgiving dinner every night but once or twice a month it's a good time to have a special meal with a big group of people and open some nice bottles of wine. When you spread out the duties over the group it's not that expensive, and is always a lot of fun.

2012 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, California
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot
$55, 14.5% abv.

Rich plum and dark berries with gentle aromas of oak and coffee. Big flavors now with a long finish. On the palate it has a bold presence and solid tannins that are strong now but will certainly mellow as the wine approaches the decade mark. I continue to be impressed by this wine and look forward to future releases. Buy a case and try one a year to study how it develops over time. Highly recommended.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Phifer Pavitt Wines

Over the holidays I tried two bottles of Phifer Pavitt Wine, made by the husband-wife team of Suzanne Phifer Pavitt and Shane Pavitt. Small production in Napa? You don't have to twist my arm.

I was enchanted by the labels with the image of a 1940s-1950s cowgirl. The woman formerly known as The Roommate had a lot of vintage cowgirl images around the place, though she could back it up with firing an impressive array of weaponry and wrangling horses as well. Nice little reminder during the nostalgic days of winter.

2012 Phifer Pavitt Date Night Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley, California
588 Cases Produced
$30, 14.5% abv.

Surprising touch of sweetness with overripe peach aromas and flavors. Big acidity. It is a bold and brassy Sauvignon Blanc that needs a rich roasted chicken or game bird dish for balance.

2011 Phifer Pavitt Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, California
875 Cases Produced
$80, 14.5% abv.

Firm nose but gentle mouthfeel. Dark cassis, coffee, leather, a little touch of herbal complexity underneath. Elegant and deserving of a bit of decanting at this young age. Should be enjoyed with the rarest slice out of an eight pound ribeye roast and a side of herbed new potatoes. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Wines of Chateau Montelena

Recently I got to participate in a webcast tasting with Bo Barrett and his daughter Remi, representing Chateau Montelena. This is one of the wineries famous for the big win in the 1976 Judgment of Paris when California wine beat out Old World legends. The story was the focus of the 2008 film Bottle Shock. I asked them what their family thinks about the movie. There was a lot of laughter, then Bo replied, "The movie was meant as a love letter to California wines rather than exactly what happened."

The two had a lot of great stories to share as our group tasted through two wines that have become legends in their own right.

2012 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay
Napa Valley, California
100% Chardonnay
$50, 13.8% abv.

Aromas of lychee with a touch of toast and vanilla, mild and round body, gentle, low acidity, soft finish. Great balance and I think it would be wonderful with a simple meal of roast clams and baguettes.

2006 Chateau Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, California
98% Cabernet Sauvignon, 1% Cabernet Franc
$150, 13.9% abv.

I allowed this one to breathe for about an hour before tasting. It shows a deep nose of black plum and prune with underlying layers of chocolate and earth. Mellow tannins after eight years allow for a long, complex finish. Truly outstanding. I'd only serve this with the best steak you can possibly afford.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 50 Harvests Meritage

I'm always honored at the opportunity to taste small production wines. I tried the 2011 50 Harvests Cabernet Sauvignon in March, a Napa wine designed to celebrate 50 years in the California wine business. That link will tell you a lot of this family's history and how they got into the winemaking business.

This year, they marked their second half-century with their first Napa Meritage (from the 2012 vintage), made by the same Scotto family who produced the William Tell Cider I recently reviewed. This might be the most elegant Meritage I've ever consumed. I'm a fan of the type--Bordeaux-style without infringing on labeling laws and without strict varietal rules (though Meritage has a few...). Mainly California in source, but there are others produced domestically and internationally. You can find quite good, "drink now" bottles in the $20-30 range. Orthodox Bordeaux is wonderful, but sometimes it can be a little more fun with a bit of Petite Sirah or Zinfandel in it.

Last time I thought their release would go well with a well-aged ribeye, and this time around I did just that. Sometimes there are wines that you just sample and move on, but others you make a plan for. Nothing fancy, just a two-inch thick boneless ribeye cooked to medium rare, a loaded baked potato, and some steamed broccoli on a quiet evening at home. I'd had a glass breathing for about an hour, and finally gave it a sip. And oh, to be able to taste this in 6-8 years when it will really shine...

2012 50 Harvests Meritage
Napa Valley, California
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 10% Malbec, 10% Petite Sirah
1,520 bottles produced (mine is #1248)
$50, 13.9% abv.

There is a lot going on with this particular nose. Aromas of chocolate, leather, coffee, black plum... On the palate dark fruit flavors of ripe blackberry follow with amazingly smooth tannins. Tart black cherry finish with a lingering flavor. The pairing with a thick, buttery ribeye was precisely what I was craving at the moment and I can't think of any combination that would work better for me. Highly recommended if you have the opportunity to try this impressive wine.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Hourglass Tasting

For the second year in a row, I've gotten the chance to taste a quartet of half bottles from Hourglass Vineyard in Napa Valley. My first tasting was in January 2013 and these were sampled a few months ago.

Napa is still recovering from the recent earthquake, so if you want to support those winemakers, growers, and everyone involved in the local industry, consider drinking a Napa wine this weekend. There has been a lot of damage to barrel rooms and cellars throughout the region, and your wine dollars do make a difference.

2013 Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$40/750ml bottle

This is one of those bottles that I'd love to pour for a blind tasting. Unlike a lot of California Sauvignon Blanc, it is light, gentle, and restrained. There are slight elements of citrus and herbs but the presentation is so delicate. I would serve it with grilled quail and a simple salad.

2012 Blueline Estate Merlot
Napa Valley/Calistoga
91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

The Merlot opens up with aromas of stewed fruits and pencil shavings. The tannins are extremely mild, leading to a soft but long finish. Outstanding with a veal chop seasoned with Herbes de Provence.

2012 Blueline Estate Malbec
Napa Valley/Calistoga
75% Malbec, 25% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

This is a great Bordeaux blend of two grapes that you don't often see in the forefront in that region. Dominant profile of black cherry, with touches of dried cranberry on the back. On the nose there is a pleasant earthiness, while the strong tannins show a wine that should develop beautifully over the next few years. For now, this is a great Saturday night steak wine.

2012 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
83% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot
$135/750ml bottle

The price might seem high for a Cabernet Franc but it will show you just how expressive this tiny grape can be. It is rich and dark with a pronounced cassis flavor. A sniff yields touches of black pepper, chocolate, and leather. The tannins are firm but not overbearing and again, it is one that will only improve with proper aging. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Charles Krug Wine Tasting

Charles Krug is the oldest winery in Napa, dating back to 1861 when a Prussian immigrant got into the wine business. It didn't really achieve greatness until after Prohibition when Cesare Mondavi purchased the company, and the rest is history. Earlier this week I got to join an online tasting of these four wines with Peter Mondavi, Jr.

2013 Charles Krug Limited Release Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$35, 13.6% abv.

The lone white wine of the tasting has remarkable funky tones, and I say that as a good thing. Grass, gooseberry, a little earth and a powerful body make this a really fascinating Sauvignon Blanc. Keep this one around for that savory duck in mole sauce dish that you've always been wanting to try.

2011 Charles Krug Napa Valley Merlot
Napa Valley
84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Sirah, 3% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot
$25, 14% abv.

Smooth cherry aromas and flavors with a hint of coffee on the edge. Mild, round body with a gentle finish. Excellent Old World balance at work here.

2011 Charles Krug Family Reserve Generations
Napa Valley
87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec, 3% Merlot
$50, 13.9% abv.

My favorite of the tasting, this bottle showed complex aromas of plum and stewed fruit but with low tannins and a delicate mouthfeel. Well-aged at this point but with great potential over the next few years. Highly recommended, and serve with rare lamb.

2011 Charles Krug Family Reserve Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec
$75, 13.7% abv.

The most Bordeaux-like of the the three Bordeaux-style blends, this Cab Sav showed up early with hints of pyrazine, tobacco, leather, and cassis. Firmer tannins than the Generations, and one that benefits from longer breathing now and longer aging in the future. But otherwise a phenomenal steak wine, and a great choice for those that want a stronger red on the table.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Jamieson Ranch Vineyards

Jamieson Ranch is the southernmost winery in Napa, and was formerly known as Reata (Spanish for "lariat"). I've covered their wines in the past, and even with the new name, several of the bottles will continue to carry the Reata marque. These three wines provide you with a great tour of classic Napa wines at reasonable prices.

2012 Reata Carneros Chardonnay
Carneros, California
100% Chardonnay
$20, 14.3% abv.
11,000 cases made

Bright apricot with a touch of vanilla, little touches of cream on the mild, round, and low acid body. Gentle mouthfeel, and one that would be great with a nice lobster roll.

2012 Reata Three County Pinot Noir
Monterey, Sonoma, San Benito, California
100% Pinot Noir
$30, 14.3% abv.
13,000 cases made

Chocolate covered strawberry aroma, with with deep berry flavors on the palate, firm tannins and a rich, deep finish. I recently had a duck molé dish and think that this would be the perfect match for it.

2011 Jamieson Ranch "Double Lariat" Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, California
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$45, 14.7% abv.
3,000 cases made

This wine opened up early with rich cassis and blackberry aromas, accompanied by full fruit flavors and medium tannins. While excellent with a steak right now, this one is sure to improve and develop over the next few years.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2011 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon

There's nothing quite like a good Bordeaux blend, even if it's made in California (and sometimes especially if it's made in California). I tried the 2005 Faust in 2008 and was delighted to try a current release here in 2014.

This blend uses all five of the Bordeaux red grapes to achieve outstanding balance and a bottle that will certainly improve over the next five to ten years. While I love experimentation in wine and don't mind some of the crazy blends coming out of Paso Robles and Lodi, there are reasons why certain classic combinations have endured for so long.

I am also a big fan of the label, which has changed slightly over the years while retaining certain critical elements. The 2011 label displays a heart of vines full of leaves. It's an odd situation in which the exact same design looks perfectly elegant on a wine bottle but would have a somewhat different impression if tattooed on the upper right breast of a biker chick at Sturgis.

2011 Faust Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, California
78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 1% Malbec, 1% Cabernet Franc
$55, 14.2% abv.

The wine has a rich nose with deep cassis and chocolate, touches of cedar and pyrazine (tomato leaf, tobacco). On the palate it is full of dark fruit flavors, medium tannins and a long, lingering finish. I would recommend decanting at this stage in its development, though in the coming years it will most likely soften and be ready to serve right away.

Memphis is in a weird weather spot right now, as it was in the 80s yesterday but a few days from now it will be in the 30s at night. Since today was cloudy and quiet, I took the opportunity to celebrate the end of winter with one last glorious casserole dish. I made a simple veal and spinach lasagna served with a little red leaf lettuce and Roma tomatoes. Splash of vinaigrette and we're done. It hit the spot, and I celebrated a glorious combination of great wine and hearty food with a healthy nap, accompanied by Bella who snored away at my feet.

In the words of my grandfather Chuck, "Fellers, it just don't get any better than this."

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

2011 50 Harvests Cabernet Sauvignon

Like many Italian immigrants, the family behind Scotto Cellars made small batches of wine in New York City at the turn of the last century. I'm not sure where he got his grapes for making gallon jugs to sell down at the docks, but at the time a lot of California grapes and juice headed eastward on trains to be made by home winemakers--a tradition that actually continued throughout the Prohibition era. After getting into the retail business, the family moved out to California in 1963. Now the company holds an extensive portfolio of brands, but today we'll be looking at the one called 50 Harvests.

50 Harvests is named in honor of that 1963 move to the Golden State, picked in 2011 and released last November after a stay in a combination of new French oak and two year old neutral oak barrels. The sample arrived in the half bottle format, though I've provided the pricing information for the full bottle. Generally the difference is that the smaller bottle will age a little more quickly, which can be a benefit with stronger red wines. You get a preview of how the wine might taste a little further down the road, and it's a perfect size for two people to enjoy over dinner. (Note that the 375mL bottle is not available for retail sale, but was provided for review purposes.)

2011 50 Harvests Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot
$50/750mL, 13.9% abv.

Gentle cassis and leather aromas. Firm black fruit flavors with a solid tannic finish. Great balance of fruit with earthier undertones, and one that should age gracefully for the next few years. If you're looking for a classic Napa Cab to go with that perfectly aged ribeye, this would be an excellent choice.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

2012 Spelletich 3 Spells Rosé

I was first introduced to Spelletich Family Winery in October of last year when I reviewed four of their bottles. Since then, they've moved to their own winemaking and crush facility in South Napa and have opened up a tasting room that offers pairings with chocolates made by Feast It Forward and Kollar.

The "3 Spells" line features their mid-range wines priced between $22-30, with the Spelletich Cellars brand occupying the $30-65 range and Spellwine covering the $15-20 market. These are very reasonable prices for small-production Napa wines, and your best bet is to order directly from the website. This rosé, for instance, was produced in a run of 90 cases, meaning that there are 1,080 bottles out there (1,079 after I consumed this one). It will sell out at some point, but sampling these kinds of wines is always a unique experience and one that is fun to share with friends. Not to show off, but rather to share the pleasure of something that was made in the right quantity given the resources available. It's like a jar of honey from the farmer's market: that guy who lets his bees harvest from blueberry bushes all season is never going to be able to scale up to nationwide distribution, but you can still cherish the opportunity to drizzle it over your toast in the morning until the jar is empty.

2012 Spelletich 3 Spells Rosé
Napa Valley
Proprietary blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
$25, 14% abv.
90 cases made

Bright nose of ripe strawberries and lemon, with firm acidity and a slight sweetness. Gentle finish. I enjoyed it with a great grilled chicken salad including berries and soft goat cheese--a lovely combination on a rather warm Memphis weekend here in what passes for winter these days.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Smith-Madrone Wines

I had the blessed fortune to attend two Thanksgiving dinners this year, though nothing will quite match 1995 when circumstances collided to provide me four Thanksgiving meals within 48 hours. (I was also at the height of my bread baking phase, and made two dozen loaves of various classic European styles.)

The second harvest festival this year was held at the home of my parents along with Julia, The Roommate, my brother, and his wife and daughter. For the occasion, I brought along a trio of wines from Smith-Madrone Vineyards. There's a long tradition of serving American wines at the Thanksgiving table, and I was particularly excited to serve the small batch bottles of a classic Napa producer.

2012 Smith-Madrone Riesling
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley
100% Riesling
$27, 12.5% abv.
798 cases made

Napa Riesling in tall green bottles was an early favorite of the Carter family back in the 90s. This one had gentle notes of green apple and was lightly sweet with earthy undertones and firm acidity. Really a spectacular balance of elements that could stand up to selections from Germany, and one that went particularly well with the side dishes like green bean casserole and my mother's rich sweet potato casserole.

2011 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley
100% Chardonnay
$30, 14.2% abv.
463 cases made

100% fermentation in French oak gave this California Chardonnay a nose of buttered popcorn with a touch of vanilla. Beneath that are scents of warm roasted peaches. Mild acidity and a round mouthfeel lead to a long finish. I found that it was a great match for Dad's pecan-smoked turkey.

2009 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley
84% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc
$45, 13.9% abv.
1,302 cases made

Dad also slow smoked a full, grass-fed, Hereford tenderloin that was rubbed down with a spice mix and cooked to a perfect medium rare. I was excited to pour this wine with the delicate beef flavors, and it did not disappoint. Rich cassis aromas with nice elements of bell pepper and tobacco. Berries show up on the aftertaste. The wine shows medium tannins and a long, lingering finish, and should continue to improve for a few more years. Highly recommended, and make sure that you have friends and family around to enjoy it.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Wines of Smith-Madrone

Smith-Madrone Winery was founded on Napa's Spring Mountain in 1971 by Stuart Smith and currently produces about 4,000 cases a year. Despite having heard of this venerable Napa producer, looking back over my notes I've never actually tried any of their wines. I had always assumed that Madrone was the other half of a partnership, but it turns out to be the most common tree on the property. The beautiful flat leaf evergreen is featured on the label.

Fredric Koeppel taught me to always pay close attention to the mountain sub-appellations of Napa, and they've never let me down. These wines come from the Spring Mountain District AVA in the Mayacamas Mountains near St. Helena.

2011 Smith-Madrone Riesling
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley
100% Riesling
521 Cases Made
$27, 12.6% abv.

Starting in 1983, they stopped calling this wine Johannisberg Riesling and simply sold it as Riesling. It's always interesting to go back and look at labels from the 70s and 80s--not that long ago--and you'll see some slightly unusual grape names, like "Pinot Chardonnay". This Riesling has a crisp green apple aroma and flavor. Bright acidity but light and dry. A perfect summertime sipper, and highly recommended for picnics.

2010 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley
100% Chardonnay
703 Cases Made
$30, 14.4% abv.

Lots of buttered popcorn on the nose of this classic California Chardonnay. Bold oak structure and an underlying flavor of ripe apricot. Long, lingering finish. This one would be perfect with a quarter of a roast chicken and fingerling potatoes with lots of sea salt.

2007 Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon
Spring Mountain District, Napa Valley
97% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Merlot, & 1% Cabernet Franc
1,434 Cases Made
$45, 14.2% abv.

On the very first sniff I got a lot of pyrazine, that molecule that gives the aroma of tomato leaves and tobacco. I love that scent, and after more swirling the wine opened up with deeper black cherry and leather aromas. On the palate it is full of dark fruit and medium tannins, leaving a long and savory finish. Well-aged and ready to drink now, though it could easily go for a few more years. Strongly recommended with rack of lamb and a cherry reduction sauce.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

NV Tess Red & White Blend

Peju Winery has been operating in Napa for 30 years, making serious Bordeaux-style wines under the guidance of founders Tony and Herta Peju. Their daughters Ariana and Lisa work for the winery as well, and have released their own wine called Tess that goes back to some blends the family experimented with at the kitchen table back in 1988.

The two sisters are roughly the same ages as my brother and me, and in 1988, we were still blending suicide soda mixes at the Burger King drink fountain. At the time, neither of us dared add orange Fanta into a cola mix, though now I think that the appropriate introduction of citrus could provide a necessary punch to the spicy, herbal cola elements.

NV Tess Red & White Blend
Napa Valley
Proprietary blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
$20, 13.9% abv.

The wine pours with the brick and garnet shade of Burgundy despite the absence of Pinot Noir. The nose is indecipherable--I found the Sauvignon Blanc to be the most distinct aroma, but the other grapes are all competing for attention. Yet on the tongue, the wine shows delightful acidity, bright fruit punch flavors with red berries and a touch of red apple, and a finish that provides echoes of the darker grapes used in the blend. This is a casual wine intended to be chilled and served without deep analysis, and on that scale it is a winner. Though the flavor profile is different, I found myself enjoying this far more than any Beaujolais Nouveau that I've had in the past five years, and would strongly recommend this bottle for weddings or casual occasions. As for food pairings, I put together a club sandwich with applewood smoked bacon, heirloom tomatoes, and a few slices of avocado for the California nod. It worked out very well, and this reddish wine should perform admirably with a wide array of appetizers.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample.

Sequoia Grove Wines

When I was a kid, our Scoutmaster had a particular interest in tree identification. He was a carpenter by trade and every tree was evaluated for its use: fences, frames, boats, cabinets, etc. Want some great moulding that will take a stain properly? You're going to want some poplar for that, and you can identify a tulip poplar by the shape of the leaf, and it's also the state tree of Tennessee.

In 1989, my grandfather took my brother and me out west for a long road trip that involved time in Oregon and northern California. Because I was 12 that summer, I wasn't visiting wineries at the time, though I think that my great uncles in the Cascades would have been up for it. At one point, we got to visit Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park and for the first time I got to see the mighty sequoia in its native habitat. (Oddly enough, an Assistant Scoutmaster back home was raising a sequoia sapling in a flower pot, trying to see how long he could keep it alive in our non-coastal biome.) It was a similar experience to the first time I visited Chicago. I'd seen tall buildings before, but good God those are huge.

I think my favorite part of the walk with the park ranger was about the death of a redwood. It falls over, clears out a lot of trees in the process, and opens up a wide swath that allows some light to hit the ground. The trunk gets devoured by bugs and fungi and turns into rich soil, and later, tiny redwood cones will fall down and land in that matrix. And thus, new redwoods will grow in a straight line along the corpse of that fallen giant.

Sequoia Grove Winery is based a bit further south in Napa Valley, surrounded by some of the namesake trees. Something I loved about visiting Sonoma was how much the wineries treasured their trees. Some had olive trees or fruit trees for making other food products, while one had a cork tree that had been brought over as a sapling from Portugal. In all cases they were beautiful and well cared for.

2011 Sequoia Grove Chardonnay
Napa Valley
100% Chardonnay
$28, 13.5% abv.

Bright Bartlett pear aromas and flavors with a few nutty notes underneath. The wine spends some time on French oak but does not have major vanilla elements. Ultimately restrained and made in a more Burgundian style. Highly recommended with some smoked trout and duck liver paté.

2009 Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$38, 14.2% abv.

Black cherry and leather aromas, combined with a hint of chocolate. Deep and dark body with a little spice and pie crust flavor. Good now but should improve over the next 2-3 years. Serve with roast pork loin and stewed figs.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Hourglass Wines Online Tasting

I've written a lot recently about bargain wines, but I am able to appreciate the finer things when given the opportunity. Recently I go to attend an online tasting of Hourglass wines with the owner (Jeff Smith, son of Ned, the founder) and winemaker (Tony Biagi, formerly of Plumpjack). The winery was founded around the famous Judgment of Paris, and Time magazine author George Taber joined us.

The winery is named after the hourglass shape of Napa Valley, specifically the pinch, fractured bedrock formation where the ancient rocks get pushed outwards instead of down. Lots of discussion on fog and heat going through the valleys through this formation, adding a climatic element to the terroir. The vineyards were mostly devoted to Zinfandel, but after a Phylloxera infestation, the vines were replanted in 1991 to showcase more Bordeaux grapes. Ned's widow wanted to sell the property, but Jeff wanted to keep making great wines. It turned out to be a great decision.

We tasted half bottles, all of the prices below are for regular 750mL bottles.

2010 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Merlot
Calistoga, Napa Valley
83% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc
$75, 16.5% abv.
Cassis and cedar, really deep aroma of dark fruit, tart, tangy flavor and finish. A really huge Merlot without being a fruit bomb. Gets smoother and yet still very rich with breathing room.

2010 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Cabernet Franc
Calistoga, Napa Valley
94% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon
$135, 15.2% abv.
20 year old vines. Hard to grow in Napa. Pyrzine gives the herbal characteristic,
Stony and mineral, very delicate touch of the green tobacco leaf. Very mild body, light finish. Really loved this one.

2010 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
100% Cabernet Sauvignon (1 lot of clone 337 [France], 2 separate lots of clone 4 [California])
$125, 15.5% abv.
Notes of red cherry and licorice, flavors of plum and some more of that great mineral undertones.

2010 Hourglass Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$155, 14.9% abv.
Wow, amazing black cherry and leather, chocolate, deep, dark wine. Very light tannins, long, supple finish. Very well structured and highly recommended if you can find it.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

2010 Girard Artistry

There are few absolute rules of quality in wine. "Dry is better than sweet." Rebuttal: Tokaji and Sauternes. "Single grapes are better than blends." Rebuttal: Bordeaux. "Blended grapes are better than single grapes." Rebuttal: Burgundy. Cross Examination: Champagne.

While we all have our favorite combinations of grapes, geography, oak, and age, there is no One True Path to the perfect wine, and I always think that it's better to make the best wine given the grapes and tools and climate and traditions available.

This "Napa Red" from Girard Winery is a great example. A great blended, Bordeaux-style wine made in the Napa Valley and aged well. I admit that I have a particular affection for such blends that take advantage of all five permitted Bordeaux red grapes, and I'm even happier when the percentages of non-Cabernet Sauvignon and non-Merlot are substantial.

2010 Girard Artistry
Napa Valley
58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 8% Malbec, 6% Petit Verdot
$45, 15.1% abv.

This wine has a deep and stately nose with elements of coffee, leather, and cassis. Big tannins and a tart, long finish indicate that while this is currently great with grilled steak, it should mellow out over the next three or four years to allow for more delicate dishes. Overall it is a delightful California wine that incorporates the best of France with a New World twist.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

2008 Terlato Devil's Peak

Terlato Wines International markets luxury wines from all over the world, and according to the website accounts for 10% of all bottles over $14 sold in the United States. There are a number of brands in the portfolio, many of which have been featured here, but today I'll focus on Terlato Family Vineyards, with operations in Napa and Sonoma since the father and sons company was founded in 1996. The twelve labels represent ten reds and two whites, with a focus on high-end, smaller production wines (250-3000 cases).

2008 Terlato Devil's Peak
Napa Valley, California
50% Cabernet Franc, 39% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
$48, 14.2% abv.
1100 cases produced

You have to love a California Bordeaux-style blend that front loads with a plurality of Cabernet Franc. Black plum and black cherry aromas with a hint of tobacco. On the tongue it provides a deep black fruit flavor with a slight roasted nut element. Mellow tannins and a good overall balance. This is drinking beautifully right now.

While I enjoyed it with a steak, I found myself craving a thick cut pork chop with an apple cider and maple glaze.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

2008 Quickfire Merlot

Brief note: I'm getting the old itch again and am tweaking the blog a bit. We're now in a three-column layout with a wider design to take advantage of modern monitors. I will likely be changing the background pattern and header soon, but for now let me know if there's any glitches or problems. Now, on to the wine!

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The wines of Quickfire are co-branded with Bravo's reality show Top Chef. I have to admit to not actually having seen the show, though I am aware of it through general cultural osmosis. The name Quickfire refers to an early challenge about making a dish with specific restrictions within one hour. A lot of friends ask me why I never go on these shows, and I point out that I'm A) not a professional chef and B) I prefer making my friends and family happy at my table. If you don't like it, you don't have to come over for dinner. Easy enough. This Iron Chef will eliminate you! "Allez Cuisine!"

I don't see the Merlot on the website, but this wine showed up as part of a broader package of Terlato wines designated for Father's Day.

On this particular day, I had actually hung up my knives and pans and ordered a "gourmet" from Johnny Brusco's Pizza. It's a vegetarian pizza with feta, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, olives, and other odds and ends. While I'm a committed omnivore I love a well-balanced vegetarian pizza, and this one never disappoints. It was a delightful way to spend a Friday evening after a long day at work. Good pie, a light and refreshing red, and a brainless movie on the laptop.

2008 Quickfire Merlot
Primarily Merlot with a little Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
$22, 13.7% abv.

Bright red cherry aromas and flavors with mild tannins and a light, fruity finish. A classic California Merlot that displays a lot of fruit and a focus on the brighter, lighter flavors as opposed to deep earthy ones. Certainly a delightful pairing with the pizza, and fun for an occasional glass of red over the following weekend.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

Pine Ridge Vineyards

I had four great wines leftover from the Crimson Wine Group TasteLive Event and had Julia coming over for lunch. Time to break them all out and enjoy some good food as such wines deserve...

We started with a spinach-yogurt soup with a vegetable broth base and a healthy splash of the Chenin Blanc/Viognier blend. I had to play around with this some, but sea salt, white pepper, (maybe a little Madras curry powder) and a final grating of nutmeg delivered a delicious soup more reminiscent of saag paneer than something out of a red and white can. The two white wines were enjoyed with the soup, saving the reds for...

Ferran Adrià. El Bulli. I'm not a big fan of molecular gastronomy, though since I haven't actually tried it, I can't judge the various foams and powders. And I once passed over an offer to pick up the other half of an El Bulli reservation (made a year ahead of time, and the couple divorced before the promised anniversary dinner, the settlement leaving the lady with both halves of the seating). It would have involved flying to Spain to have dinner with a complete stranger that involved driving up a mountain and.... That wasn't a good life choice at the time for a variety of reasons, mainly because it was short notice and would have cost a fortune.

But recently I was enchanted by one of Adrià's staff dinners featured on Serious Eats. It looked simple yet delicious, and I left it as an open tab in my Chrome browser for a couple of weeks. Couldn't stop staring at it, and had to make it. Fire roasted peppers, thin slices of pork loin (often sold as thin boneless pork chops around here), and a simple blend of olive oil, parsley, and garlic.

This is one of the most delicious things I've had in a long time, and it's so stupidly simple I don't know why it isn't a staple on menus all over the country. Cheap, as well. And one of the best parts is that the oil blend really accentuates a great parsley flavor, which you often don't get from mere garnish. The prep is simple, the execution doesn't demand too much, and if you're concerned about roasting peppers you could always use the jarred version.

But let's not forget to talk about the wines, which were incredible.

Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc & Viognier
California
79% Chenin Blanc, 21% Viognier
$14, 13% abv.
Crisp and acidic, lemony touches. I've always enjoyed these grapes for table whites, and while this one verged on tart, I think it would be a great picnic wine, a term I use with high affection. Serve with cold chicken and potato salad and that acidity will have a perfect complement.

2009 Pine Ridge Chardonnay Dijon Clones
Carneros, Napa
$34, 14.1% abv.
Light and mild with tropical fruit aromas that give way to a light peach flavor and a smooth mouthfeel. Great balanced acidity and overall structure. It rested in French oak for nine months, but bears no resemblance to caramel popcorn or buttered toast. I Can't Believe It's Not Burgundy. It went well with the soup and the first few bites of the pork, but I was very excited to revisit the reds.

2008 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon
Rutherford, Oakville, & Stags Leap, Napa
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$54, 14.1% abv.
Cherry pie, touch of spice, black cherry, black pepper, long finish. An excellent, well-structured Napa Cabernet Sauvignon that had mild tannins and provided a fruit note that went great with the fire roasted peppers.

2008 Pine Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon
Stags Leap, Napa
91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot, 1% Merlot
$80, 14.7% abv.
Plum, cassis, touches of cedar and chocolate, tannins are still firm but they're going to be oh so delicate in a few years. Outstanding balance and I find the grape combination fascinating. Highly recommended, and the next time I have this wine it will be with a rack of lamb or a bone-in pork loin roast.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

2008 Aurielle Cabernet Sauvignon

In 2009, I got an opportunity to try a sample of the 2006 Aurielle Cabernet Sauvignon. I elected to surprise my brother (who works the night shift) with a gourmet steak dinner first thing in the morning. We had a blast with that meal, and it's in my top ten personal wine moments.

I had the chance to try a more recent release of the Aurielle, and while I considered various ways to enjoy it, I eventually looked at all the ingredients I had in the kitchen and decided to make a great steakhouse burger. Hand-ground sirloin, served with homemade mayonnaise, chipotle mustard, colby cheese, tomato, and romaine lettuce. Served with some pickled beets (for the Aussies), Claussen pickles, and a healthy dose of pommes frites.

This is a serious red wine, but I made a serious meal to go along with it, and after a long weekend of entertaining and other chores, it was an amazing way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

2008 Aurielle Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$90, 14.9% abv.
Rich and full of deep black plum aromas. The alcohol is present on the nose but not noticeable on the palate. Soft dark fruit flavor with hints of leather and coffee and firm tannins. Long, lingering finish, and definitely a wine that you want to sit back and enjoy over the course of a few hours. Outstanding balance and highly recommended.

It was a phenomenal match with the meal, as humble as it may appear on the outside. But putting everything together in just the right way resulted in a perfect and memorable meal, and one that I won't be forgetting soon.


Note: This wine was received as a sample.