Schweinehaus

I woke up this morning and it was cold, overcast, and raining. Though in a good mood, I found myself craving old school German comfort food, and I'd been meaning to try out a certain spot in Overton Square. Memphis is not really known for its German food, and over the years we've seen places like Mary's in Collierville and the venerable but departed Erika's downtown. For years as a member of my high school's German Club, we planned a meal at Erika's but never went there, meaning that I spent a lot of time trying to figure out Sauerbraten at home from dusty recipe books.

I lied to The Bella and told her I was heading out to eat celery and eat cold soup. Off to Midtown!

Schweinehaus
2110 Madison Avenue
Memphis, TN
(901) 347-3060

The restaurant is set up in the traditional Bavarian beer hall style, and the white and blue checked pattern is painted on the outside of the building. Seating is communal on long benches, though I was by myself at my table. I can't wait to go back at some point with a group or when they're busy to enjoy the Gemütlichkeit from such an environment. You make fast friends when the beer is flowing and you're running low on mustard.

I got the Wurst platter with a half litre of Dunkel. Don't know the brand, I was just enjoying lunch and in the mood for a dark beer. The platter featured three crispy Kartoffelpuffer (potato pancakes), Sauerkraut, Blaukraut (braised red cabbage), toasted bread, and then the sauces and sausages. You can't really see the sauces that well, but we've got a whole grain mustard, a molasses-mustard blend, and an apple Jezebel sauce.

There was one more sausage--a house blend that arrived after this photo was taken, but from right to left you're looking at venison, wild boar, and Weißwurst. All were delicious but I was really excited about the Weißwurst since it's hard to come by in Memphis. Made from minced veal and pork loin it has a mild but deep flavor and goes oh-so-perfectly with certain Alsatian white wines. I tried the sausages in various combinations with the sauces and did not come out with a clear favorite, but everything was delicious and I satisfied the curious craving I had. At the time I was there, nobody was speaking German but I look forward to a future visit when I can dust off the old Muttersprache and have folks laugh at my Plattdüütsch accent.

Fall Wines of Germany

Time once again for the quarterly delivery of two bottles from Wines of Germany. Over the years I've really enjoyed their sample system: always two bottles, one sweet, one dry, yet always demonstrating the impressive diversity that comes out of Germany with just a handful of white grapes.

The holidays are approaching, and low alcohol Riesling always has a place on the Thanksgiving or Christmas table. The Pinot Gris presented here is not my preferred style--I like it more austere and with a mineral focus--but is still tasty and approachable for both the expert and novice.

2013 Villa Wolf Pinot Gris
Pfalz, Germany
100% Pinot Gris
$12, 12.5% abv.

Just 75 km/45 miles from the French border, this winery was established in 1756 but revitalized by Dr. Loosen in 1996. This particular bottle is crisp and tart with tangy green apple and pear flavors. Dry and refreshing with a short finish. With a nod towards Thanksgiving, this would be my go-to bottle for a sandwich of leftover turkey and cranberry sauce on Friday while I am sitting at home reading rather than fighting with the crowds out shopping.

2011 Louis Guntrum Niersteiner Rehbach Riesling Spätlese
Rheinhessen, Germany
100% Riesling
$25, 10% abv.

The Guntrum estate was founded in 1648 and is currently managed by the 11th generation family member Louis Konstantin Guntrum. In 1945, General George S. Patton occupied the winery for the last months of WWII. I'm sure this was a purely strategic decision. This particular bottle is mild and sweet with low acidity and a round body. Round white fruit flavors with a gentle, clean finish. Good balance and a low alcohol percentage make this one an excellent candidate for the wine novices at your holiday table, while at the same time appealing to those who know a lot more about wine. I got a serious craving for baked ham and deviled eggs while sipping this one.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Trio of August Rieslings

Recently I joined an online Twitter tasting focused on Riesling from three different countries: Germany, France, and Austria. During the tasting I pointed out that it was nice to be living in a time when people from all three countries could sit down and enjoy wine together in peace. Lots of people applauded and talked about Riesling being the wine that brings everyone together, but the historian in me notes that these regions were still drinking the same wine while fighting with each other over the past thousand years.

This has a lot to do with my curious fascination with the Thirty Years' War, a Catholic vs. Protestant conflict that ripped apart Europe for three decades in the 17th century and resulted in the deaths of 8 million people. It doesn't get talked about a lot here in the United States because it is not well understood and doesn't have a direct influence on the founding of our country. In Germany alone, a third of the population died. It throws a lot of modern conflicts into perspective. For anyone keeping score, France and the regions now known as Germany were on the Protestant side while Austria was on the Catholic side. Obviously allegiances changed over the centuries, but I am glad that now they merely argue about EU regulations that define bent and straight bananas.

2011 Weingut Brandl Riesling Heiligenstein Erste Waches
Kamptal, Austria
100% Riesling
$20, 14% abv.

Light pear and quince aromas. Just a touch of sweetness. Highly mineral. Austria is best known for Grüner Veltliner but some amazing Rieslings are made there as well, and this is a great bargain. Highly recommended.

2011 Erbach Marcobrunn Schloss Schönborn Riesling Kabinett
Rheingau, Germany
100% Riesling
$24, 9.5% abv.

This one opens up with a scent of green apples and a touch of lemon. It is the sweetest of the three and while an excellent example of the kind of sweet, low-alcohol German Riesling, I just happened to not be in the mood for it that evening. Later in the year with some Thai food, this would be a perfect pairing.

2010 Domaine Paul Blanck Schlossburg Riesling
Alsace, France
100% Riesling
$34, 13% abv.

Enchanting nose of golden delicious apple and ginger with a hint of flowers in the background. Light and balanced with just the right amount of acidity, and my favorite of the group. Serve with cheese and crackers on a hot summer day while watching a movie and avoiding the sweltering humidity of Memphis. As I type these words, it is 38ºC/100ºF here in the River City and I, like many of my fellow citizens, am ready for fall to arrive.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

July Wines of Germany

The concept of selecting wines seasonally is a great one and an approach that I highly recommend. However, even within a class of wine, pairing food seasonally is also a way to bring more joy from a certain bottle. For instance, let's look at Riesling. I always serve it cool, not cold, which would seem perfect for the summer. However, it is wonderful in the fall and winter with classic hearty German fare. Even though our Memphis summer has been fairly mild so far, I'm not really in the mood for a heavy plate of Weiβwurst und Spätzle. When it's hot outside, I love the combination of Riesling and spicy food with lots of fresh ingredients, so those tall thin bottles get opened up in the presence of Thai, Indian, Vietnamese, and Japanese food. Even Mexican, though more along the lines of ceviche and bright coastal fare rather than goopy Tex-Mex. The chiles play nicely with the sweet or dry grapes, and the low alcohol provides for light refreshment.

Here are four bottles that I've had the opportunity to try recently:

2010 G.H. von Mumm Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland Riesling Trocken
Rheingau, Germany
100% Riesling
$13, 13% abv.

This bottle has an overall profile of light pear elements. Good acidity with a dry and crisp finish. The wine has a big enough body to stand up to heavily spiced dishes, so I had it with a lamb vindaloo.

2012 St. Urbans-Hof Ockfener Bockstein Riesling Kabinett
Mosel, Germany
100% Riesling
$22, 8% abv.

Gentle ripe apple aromas with an earthy undertone, slight sweetness, low acidity and a round mouthfeel. I found it absolutely delightful with sushi and gyoza dumplings.

2012 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt Riesling
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
100% Riesling
$20, 10% abv.

Dark aroma of honey and jasmine, medium sweetness with a little lemon on the finish. This one was a natural match for a bowl of phở tái bò viên with lots of crushed basil.

2012 Alexander Laible Riesling Trocken Chara
Baden, Germany
100% Riesling
$20, 13%

The fourth bottle was sampled on its own but had a fascinating nose of quince and herbs. Dry and tart with a mineral finish, it represents a very Old World style and is one of those wines that you keep coming back to in order to pick out the complex aromas and flavors. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Holiday Wines of Germany

Quick note: I've got a new article up at Palate Press about the challenges of being a wine lover in a hot climate. The timing is great--I wrote the article back in November when it was pretty warm, but yesterday it got to 73°F here in the River City. Alas, right now the temperature is crashing and we're bracing for a major ice storm with temperatures that might get near the freezing point. I'm sure all of my readers in the north are laughing as my city completely shuts down in the face of a tiny bit of ice and snow.

And now, let's take the opportunity to celebrate some delicious German wines that would be great on the holiday table.

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Wines of Germany USA continues to provide this humble blog with quarterly deliveries of two bottles of wine. I'm always surprised by their selections--some are not available in the US, some are inexpensive while others are more pricey, but all are interesting and provide a valuable insight into the incredible diversity of German wine.

These producers also tend to have a lot of history behind them, and I love digging into that while sampling the wines.

2012 Selbach Riesling Kabinette "Trutta Fario"
Mosel, Germany
100% Riesling
$18, 9.5% abv.

Selbach-Oster has been around since 1660, formed from two families that lived on opposite banks of the Mosel river. This affordable bottle has a delightful German minerality combined with a splash of lemony acidity and just enough sweetness to round out the bottle. The nickname of the wine refers to the brown trout, and I think this would be a fantastic pairing for freshly caught trout cooked in brown butter and almonds.

2008 Lingenfelder Pinot Noir
Pfalz, Germany
100% Pinot Noir
$32, 14% abv.

Lingenfelder goes back to 1520, meaning that these vineyards got to witness the Reformation and all of the turmoil that followed. I've had mixed experiences with German red wines, but this one was quite well constructed. It has a profile of overripe wild strawberries, a touch of earth, low tannins, and a very mild body. It's just a little tart, and one that I'd enjoy serving with an appetizer platter of sausages and cheeses.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Riesling Trio Tour

There are cycles in the life of a wine lover, and the Riesling cycle is not a Wagner opera but rather the fact that so many of us start out with Rieslings early on. They're sweet, fruity, low in alcohol, and fairly inexpensive. The tall, elegant bottles of Riesling from Hogue of Washington and V. Sattui of California were two of the first wines that I could identify by name and sight as opposed to just "random bottle of fermented grape juice". Bear in mind that we're talking about the mid-90s here, long before I started to seriously study the subject.

I eventually left behind those west coast Rieslings (as well as the various German bottles I chose based solely on price). I lost my sweet tooth, and got interested in more dry white wines or even aged white Burgundy. Years later, I circled back around to Riesling when I got the chance to try serious examples from Germany and beyond.

This particular triplet of samples represents three classic Riesling regions: Germany, Austria, and Alsace in Eastern France.

2011 Schlossgut Johannes Selbach Riesling Dry
Mosel, Germany
100% Riesling
$15, 13% abv.

Pleasantly dry with a touch of lemons. It is a great casual sipper, and as the piscine label indicates, it's a great pairing for gentle seafood dishes. A good bargain, and also an excellent introduction to the fact that Riesling does not have to be sweet but can focus on other facets as well.

2011 Domaine Ehrhart Riesling Vieilles Vignes
Wettolsheim, Alsace
100% Riesling
$16, 12.6% abv.

I'm so enamored of Alsatian wines these days, and this one did not disappoint. It opens up with Granny Smith apples on the nose. On the palate it is a little sweet with lots of bright acidity. Bring on the sausage, beans, and cabbage and enjoy the fall flavors.

2011 Salomon Undhof Steiner Kögl Riesling Erste Lage ÖTW
Kremstal, Austria
100% Riesling
$30, 13.5% abv.

Austria is better known for Grüner Veltliner but they can also make elegant Riesling. This one is crisp and austere with excellent minerality and those great wet stone notes on top. It is gentle and well balanced with lots of subtle elements that show up as it warms.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

August Wines of Germany

It's been a busy month here in the River City, and I'm still a dozen wines behind in my reviews... But a pleasant regular visitor showed up: my quarterly mailing from Wines of Germany. Every three months my doorstep is blessed with a pair of interesting wines from Deutschland. Mostly Riesling, but there have been some other grapes represented in the past.

2011 C.H. Berres Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett
100% Riesling
Mosel
$20, 11% abv.

Dominant aroma of ripe green apple, but with lower acidity than I was expecting. Instead it is smooth and mellow, with a refreshing character particularly on a hot August afternoon. Normally I'd suggest some complicated dish to serve this with, but a ham and Swiss on rye with a side of potato salad proved to be perfect with this particular bottle.

2009 Hans Lang Vom Bunten Schiefer Riesling Dry
100% Riesling
Rheingau
$22, 12.5% abv.

The second wine was far more complex, with a nose featuring lemon verbena, petrol, and citrus peel. Crisp and clean with a medium length finish. I certainly enjoyed sipping and swirling this for a while, and found that it worked out well with a dish of Peking-style pork and fried rice.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

German Wines in May

The folks at Wines of Germany sent along their quarterly pair of samples. The first is a repeat, but one that I've enjoyed every time that I've had it.

2009 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett
Mosel, Germany
100% Riesling
$22, 9% abv.

Nose has a tinge of petrol and overripe white fruit, but gives way to a light and golden, medium-dry wine. Low acidity and a round mouthfeel, with a lingering yellow apple flavor on the palate.

The second wine was a bit of a surprise. I wasn't expecting a Pinot Noir, even though it's not that rare in Germany, where it's known as Spätburgunder.

2010 Franz Anton Pinot Noir
Baden, Germany
100% Pinot Noir
$37, 13.5% abv.

Cherries and bacon fat, mild nose, light and thin body with a lingering sour cherry flavor. This is by far the best German red wine I've ever had. My first experience was with a rather disappointing Dornfelder. This pleasant Pinot Noir would be delicious with kielbasa or other dense pork sausages.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

BWR Classic: The Stetson Salad & Grauer Burgunder

I found myself craving this salad tonight, though I did not gather the dozen ingredients necessary to make it. I still have fond memories of this salad, and will make it again soon.

* * *

I was scrolling through Facebook when I saw that a friend named Juli Eck (who graciously invited me to a private wine tasting a while back) had posted a photo of something called a Stetson salad. It looked good even though I had no idea what was in it. It was obviously something like the famous Cobb salad, in which the ingredients are laid in stripes. The idea is that the waiter tosses the salad tableside and serves portions to each diner, but that's rare these days, and the salad plates aren't big enough for proper tossing, so you see people just eating the salad with an attitude of "Oh, here's a bit of avocado, next I get to try some bacon! Can't possibly try them at the same time..."

The Stetson salad comes from Cowboy Ciao, a Scottsdale, Arizona restaurant with an eclectic, creative menu. The salad appears to be their best-known dish and is no doubt widely imitated around the country by other restaurants, dinner party hostesses, and humble wine bloggers. I've never been to the restaurant but the menu looks solid, and the wine list weighs in at a hefty 94 pages with 3,200 different wines.

There's no bed of lettuce here, and I've seen variations that call for putting the whole mess on a bed of quinoa. There are many recipes, and the one I used seemed to be closest to the actual restaurant photos. My only substitution was the use of fresh corn kernels instead of dried kernels (not like popcorn, but more like dried green peas or other healthy snacks). I couldn't find dried corn, but I think outside of additional crunch I wasn't missing too much. If you're making this for a lot of people, put it all on a big platter, mix, and then serve. If you're dealing with multiple people who dislike or are allergic to one ingredient (but of course, it will never be the same ingredient), lay out the elements and let them build their own. I made mine with everything.

Here you have diced tomatoes, corn kernels, toasted pumpkinseeds mixed with dried currants (most recipes seem to leave out this step), arugula, Israeli couscous (I made mine with garlic and chopped shallots and chicken stock), and the final touch--smoked salmon.

But wait, there's dressing.

(Let me step aside for a moment and say that, as much as I love this salad and as delicious as it is, it's a lot of work and requires a lot of ingredients. So you either want to make this for a lot of people or be prepared to have variations of it for days afterward.)

In accordance with the dressing recipe I made a batch of aïoli and mixed it with diced shallots, buttermilk, and basil pesto (I just used jarred pesto, there were only so many things I could make from scratch before noon). Mix everything together and pour over the salad, and then take a fork and spoon and gently toss everything together. Unlike many of the creamy salads that sit in the deli counter for hours, this remains really fresh with easily distinguishable flavors and textures. And what a combination! No one element overpowers the other, and it really stands as a meal on its own. I'd intended for it to be a first course, but after an initial round of cheese and olives, the salad completely filled all three of us.

2009 Graf v. Schönborn Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Trocken
Franken (Franconia)
13% abv.
Pinot Gris

I couldn't wait too long to try this mysterious bottle from Wines of Germany. It's from the Schloss Hallburg in the Franken region northwest of Bavaria, and no, I don't know how much it costs. I don't even know if it's available in the US. I've seen prices from €16 to $45, so take from that what you will.

The vineyard is owned by the Schönborn family, an noble line that goes back to the 12th century and includes a lot of Catholic prelates, including the current Archbishop of Vienna. The Baroque castle Schloss Weißenstein in Pommersfelden was built for Prince-Bishop Lothar Franz von Schönborn in the early 1700s. The family formally registered their wine business back in 1349 and it is currently managed by S. E. Paul Graf von Schönborn, who studied banking in the United States.

It's a bronze-tinged late harvest Pinot Gris with lovely floral aromas like jasmine and white rose. Good acidity with just a touch of sweetness and a light apple flavor like a Golden Delicious. It has a firm, rich body and substantial weight . It worked well with the salad, but this is such a unique experience that I'd suggest enjoying it on its own with light appetizers of German cheeses and white sausages and a few fellow wine enthusiasts.


Note: This wine was received as a sample.

February's Wines of Germany

Time once again for the quarterly samples provided by the folks at Wines of Germany. On the same day the wines arrived, Julia was coming over for dinner and some mid-week TV, and I thought that some Asian food was in order (by wich I mean the hundreds of distinct cuisines consumed by a third of the human population). I wanted Korean, she wanted Thai... The solution, of course, was Pei Wei Asian Diner. While I always strive to support my local mom and pop establishments, sometimes time and convenience are more pressing, and frankly, I've always enjoyed the food I've had there. She had the Pad Thai while I enjoyed a spicy Korean beef dish with lots of carrots and green beans. A pair of egg rolls rounded out the quiet Tuesday night meal, but I got to serve them with some serious German white wines.

2010 Balthasar Ress "Von Unserem" Rheingau Riesling Trocken
Rheingau
$18, 12% abv.

Weingut Balthasar Ress began in 1870 as a small winery and hotel operation in Hattenheim just west of Frankfurt am Main. Konrad Adenauer and others met at the hotel in the late 40s to draft the new German constitution. Geschichte in mein Glas. The wine is light and crisp with apricot elements and wonderful acidity. Dry and fruity with a mild, short finish. Right below the convenient screwcap you'll find the VDP eagle logo, a sign of quality in German winemaking.

2008 Knebel Röttgen Riesling Spätlese
Rheingau
$40, 8.5% abv.

Weingut Reinhard & Beate Knebel is a bit younger, founded in 1990. It's a smaller operation, but I was extremely impressed by this bottle. Wow. Aromas of jasmine and dried fruit dominate with the barest hint of petrol. It has a smooth and round body with flavors of red apple and medium sweetness. The wine is pleasantly low in alcohol but still clings to the glass slightly when swirled. I tasted both of these wines before dinner, but with an array of spices, peppers, and hot mustard, this wine really opened up and showed a lot of range. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Holiday Rieslings

There's the question about what wine to serve with Thanksgiving dinner, and then there's the followup question: What did you drink with Thanksgiving dinner?

I ignored my own advice because I can, and because in addition to wanting something good to go along with the meal, I also have a duty to sample the samples. And it was with great pleasure that I was able to bring two bottles of German Riesling to the city of Jonesboro, Arkansas where I celebrated the holiday with Julia and her family. We enjoyed a classic meal of turkey and stuffing and assorted side dishes, with the addition of her uncle's smoked ribs. Dessert included baked apple dumplings... Pork and apple and RIESLING! Perfect!

I don't know the American prices or availability of these wines, but if I find out later, I will update the posts. Thanks once again to the folks from Wines of Germany for their quarterly shipment of one sweet and one dry Riesling.

2010 G.H. Mumm Rüdesheimer Berg Rottland "Erstes Gewächs"
Rheingau, Germany
€25, 13% abv.

This is the style of German Riesling that I adore: completely dry with balanced acidity and aromas of petrol and wet stones. Not everyone was as much of a fan, but several enjoyed experiencing such unusual aromas coming from a wine. "Nothing's wrong with it, that's how it's supposed to smell!" There's a long, mellow finish to this wine that only improves as it warms up over time.

2010 Max Ferd Richter Riesling Kabinett Veldenzer Elisenberg
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer, Germany
€18, 9.5% abv.

This winery exists because in 1813, Franz Ludwig Niessen paid Napoleon 3,000 Tahlers to prevent the destruction of two nearby towns. In gratitude, the Richter family was awarded additional land full of grey slate and quartz. This was the big hit of the gathering, full of light apple and pear aromas with a medium sweetness and a light, crisp finish. Really perfect for turkey and pork and everything else we had. Highly recommended for your Christmas dinner, which should include similar foods.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Autumn Rieslings

My kitchen table topped with German wines and a Japanese lens... If this photo was taken 70 years ago I'd be considered a traitor and possibly a collaborator. I often wonder how people felt about this in previous centuries--given the constant warfare in Europe over the past thousand years, how long did people wait before becoming comfortable with the wines of a former enemy?

On happier topics, it's time once again for a pair of Rieslings from the folks at Wines of Germany.

While I never recommend wine with breakfast in the early morning, it doesn't mean that wine can't work well with breakfast foods at more reasonable hours. I've always been a big fan of "breakfast for dinner" and it reminds me of childhood, when we'd celebrate Christmas on Christmas Eve when the clock hit midnight at Greenwich Mean Time and have pancakes and waffles and other goodies. I decided to make eggs benedict with sausage instead of Canadian bacon and chop up a pineapple (not pictured). The very simple adjustment to the classic recipe was delicious, and I added a little Trinidadian Scotch bonnet/papaya hot sauce to mine. While it shouldn't be a surprise, eggs and butter and sausage go particularly well with Rieslings...

2011 Wittman 100 Hügel Riesling Trocken
Rheinhessen
$21, 12% abv.

Green apples and delightful mineral structure. Bright acidity that puckers your lips just enough to please, but not sour or astringent in the slightest. Dry but fruit-forward and I love to expose this style of Riesling to people for the first time.

2011 Weinkellerei J. & H. Selbach Spätlese Riesling
Mosel
$18, 10% abv.

The sweeter bottle has a honey profile. A little dark, a little musk, but not overwhelmingly sweet. Ripe pear aromas and that luscious nectar flavor. While this worked well with the breakfast food, it was a surprising pleasure with a simple lunch of hot dogs on the following day. Who would have thought that a German wine would pair well with a Frankfurter? < sarcasm > Seriously, I wasn't using artisan Berkshire pork and wild turkey sausages with natural casings, just normal everyday Oscar Mayer franks. Have you tried great Riesling with a hot dog? Give it a try and connect with the tube meat traditions of Deutschland. It's a fun alternative to the beer and brats tailgating ethos, and one that I would highly recommend during football season.

If wine is going to be an important part of the American food culture, it has to get served during football games. The great part is that all of the great kickers come from classic European wine regions, so you can pair by country. It might be hard to find a Czech or Luxembourg wine in your area, but you can still toast and celebrate a victory with grapes that were stomped as hard as the losing team.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

2010 Meulenhof Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese

This wine is the companion bottle from the recent Wines of Germany shipment of the Sekt I got to try. The PR firm is currently busy with a US tour by Annika Strebel, the 63rd German Wine Queen.

Although the date on the logo of Weingut Meulenhof says 1238, the website claims that the winery dates back to 1337, and operated as a convent between 1477 and 1802 when Napoleon auctioned it off to a local merchant. The current owners are the Justen family, who have been making wine since 1950.

This bottle is classified as Prädikatswein, the new name for the old Qualitätswein mit Prädikat designation and the highest level of German wines.

Erdener Prälat means "The Bishop of Erden" and is a small vineyard in the Mosel Valley that is nestled between red slate cliffs. Nearby are other vineyards like Ürziger Würzgarten (Spice Garden) and Erdener Treppchen (Little Steps of Erden).

2010 Meulenhof Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese
Mosel Valley
$33, 7.5% abv.
50 Cases Made

This is a spectacular wine, and it's a shame that so few will get a chance to try it. It is a bit sweet, but the acidity and structure of the wine are so perfectly balanced that it's not cloying or thick. The low alcohol content really allows you to enjoy the complex aromas of dried peach, ripe apricot, tropical fruits, and hints of spice. There's a lot going on with this wine and it merits some quiet attention. On the palate there's a wonderful mineral structure, good acidity, and ripe fruit flavors that continue with a long finish.

While I'm sure there are some mild cheeses that would pair well with this wine, I think it would be better enjoyed on its own as a magnificent example of German Riesling. Highly recommended.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

2008 Raumland "Cuvée Marie-Luise" Blanc de Noirs Vintage Brut

Every quarter, I get a pair of wines from the folks at Wines of Germany. It's usually Riesling (like the second bottle for another post), though there is immense diversity within that one grape. When this arrived, I thought it was a mistake.

The name and label made me think it was a California bubbly, but in tiny letters at the bottom you can see Sekthaus Raumland. Yes folks, this is vintage Sekt, and while I've been familiar with the style for a long time I had never actually tried it. The name has gone back and forth as a generic and specific name for sparkling wines from German-speaking regions, but I don't think it's a recognizable enough term for other countries to want to appropriate, as happened in many places with Champagne.

Sekthaus Raumland was founded in 1984 by Volker Raumland, who studied oenology at Geisenheim. While they are a relatively small production winery, they do produce a wide variety of labels, covering traditional, high end Champagne-style wines with some sparkling Riesling and a trio of inexpensive seccos. This and the Cuvée Katharina are named after the Raumlands' daughters.

2008 Raumland "Cuvée Marie-Luise" Blanc de Noirs Vintage Brut
$45, 12% abv.
100% Pinot Noir
Made in Rheinhessen, Germany

While this has 8.5 g/L of residual sugar, the tart acidity makes certain that it doesn't come off as sweet. There are light aromas of apple and lemon, with just a little toast underneath. It's a very pale Blanc de Noirs with none of the salmon tinge you occasionally see. Crisp and mild with medium sized bubbles and a clean finish. Excellent with a plate of cheeses and cured meats as a party is just warming up. This may be difficult to find in the United States, but it's worth trying if you want to expand your life list a bit.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

Stetson Salad & Grauer Burgunder

I was scrolling through Facebook when I saw that a friend named Juli Eck (who graciously invited me to a private wine tasting a while back) had posted a photo of something called a Stetson salad. It looked good even though I had no idea what was in it. It was obviously something like the famous Cobb salad, in which the ingredients are laid in stripes. The idea is that the waiter tosses the salad tableside and serves portions to each diner, but that's rare these days, and the salad plates aren't big enough for proper tossing, so you see people just eating the salad with an attitude of "Oh, here's a bit of avocado, next I get to try some bacon! Can't possibly try them at the same time..."

The Stetson salad comes from Cowboy Ciao, a Scottsdale, Arizona restaurant with an eclectic, creative menu. The salad appears to be their best-known dish and is no doubt widely imitated around the country by other restaurants, dinner party hostesses, and humble wine bloggers. I've never been to the restaurant but the menu looks solid, and the wine list weighs in at a hefty 94 pages with 3,200 different wines.

There's no bed of lettuce here, and I've seen variations that call for putting the whole mess on a bed of quinoa. There are many recipes, and the one I used seemed to be closest to the actual restaurant photos. My only substitution was the use of fresh corn kernels instead of dried kernels (not like popcorn, but more like dried green peas or other healthy snacks). I couldn't find dried corn, but I think outside of additional crunch I wasn't missing too much. If you're making this for a lot of people, put it all on a big platter, mix, and then serve. If you're dealing with multiple people who dislike or are allergic to one ingredient (but of course, it will never be the same ingredient), lay out the elements and let them build their own. I made mine with everything.

Here you have diced tomatoes, corn kernels, toasted pumpkinseeds mixed with dried currants (most recipes seem to leave out this step), arugula, Israeli couscous (I made mine with garlic and chopped shallots and chicken stock), and the final touch--smoked salmon.

But wait, there's dressing.

(Let me step aside for a moment and say that, as much as I love this salad and as delicious as it is, it's a lot of work and requires a lot of ingredients. So you either want to make this for a lot of people or be prepared to have variations of it for days afterward.)

In accordance with the dressing recipe I made a batch of aïoli and mixed it with diced shallots, buttermilk, and basil pesto (I just used jarred pesto, there were only so many things I could make from scratch before noon). Mix everything together and pour over the salad, and then take a fork and spoon and gently toss everything together. Unlike many of the creamy salads that sit in the deli counter for hours, this remains really fresh with easily distinguishable flavors and textures. And what a combination! No one element overpowers the other, and it really stands as a meal on its own. I'd intended for it to be a first course, but after an initial round of cheese and olives, the salad completely filled all three of us.

2009 Graf v. Schönborn Grauer Burgunder Spätlese Trocken
Franken (Franconia)
13% abv.
Pinot Gris

I couldn't wait too long to try this mysterious bottle from Wines of Germany. It's from the Schloss Hallburg in the Franken region northwest of Bavaria, and no, I don't know how much it costs. I don't even know if it's available in the US. I've seen prices from €16 to $45, so take from that what you will.

The vineyard is owned by the Schönborn family, an noble line that goes back to the 12th century and includes a lot of Catholic prelates, including the current Archbishop of Vienna. The Baroque castle Schloss Weißenstein in Pommersfelden was built for Prince-Bishop Lothar Franz von Schönborn in the early 1700s. The family formally registered their wine business back in 1349 and it is currently managed by S. E. Paul Graf von Schönborn, who studied banking in the United States.

It's a bronze-tinged late harvest Pinot Gris with lovely floral aromas like jasmine and white rose. Good acidity with just a touch of sweetness and a light apple flavor like a Golden Delicious. It has a firm, rich body and substantial weight . It worked well with the salad, but this is such a unique experience that I'd suggest enjoying it on its own with light appetizers of German cheeses and white sausages and a few fellow wine enthusiasts.


Note: This wine was received as a sample.

December Rieslings

On the Friday before Christmas, I was on my home from work and looking forward to dinner and a movie with Julia. I had a pair of Rieslings chilling back at the house, but wasn't in the mood to cook. I was instead in the mood for something very specific: Vietnamese soup. She'd never had phở before, and I was looking forward to that particular culinary introduction as well as satisfying my own craving for some thinly sliced beef in hot broth with lots of other goodies.

We started off with gỏi cuốn and tương xào followed by phở gà for Julia and phở tái bò viên for me. (Or those soft rice wrapper rolls with shrimp and lettuce, chicken breast and chicken broth for her and sliced beef plus meatballs in my bowl.) The joy of phở is customization, and she kept hers light and simple while I went crazy with a little bit of every ingredient and some additional Sriracha sauce. Outstanding dinner, made even better by the Riesling. I tried the wines before the soup and once with the soup before I added additional heat. Both performed well at all stages of dinner.

2009 Clean Slate Riesling
Mosel
$11, 10.5% abv.
Lightly sweet with with medium acidity. The nose has hints of peach and orange blossom, but nothing is terribly strong. It is an easy-going and extremely affordable white wine with a long, pleasant finish. Julia preferred this one, and I thought it was a great contrast to the bean sauce that came with the rolls.

2009 Weingut Hans Lang Riesling Dry Erste Gewächs
Hattenheim Wisselbrunnen, Rheingau
$50, 13% abv.
Erstes Gewächs means "first growth" and is a relatively new VDP classification denoting a quality dry wine from the top vineyards in Germany. Petrol and wet rocks with light green apple hints in the background. Low acidity, dry, with excellent balance. As it warmed, it developed some lovely earth tones and a wonderful depth. Long finish, highly recommended. My favorite of the two, though toward the end of the meal the Sriacha and jalapeño slice blocked out some of the more subtle tones in the wine.

This is by no means a new wine pairing idea, but it was really delicious and the wine contributed to making an already great dinner even better. Which is what wine is supposed to do.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Rieslings from Selbach & Pfeffingen

Time once again for a pair of bottles from Wines of Germany. They usually send one sweet and one dry wine, though this time they really outdid themselves on the sweet side. The older I get, the more I appreciate the versatility of Riesling. I used to just get excited about pork and apples and sauerkraut, but that's thinking too small. And, of course, good Riesling can be enjoyed by novices as well as more experienced wine lovers, which makes it great for parties and dinner parties.

Selbach & Pfeffingen sounds like the name of a firm that makes carbon fiber spoilers for Formula One race cars, but they're two separate wine producers from Germany.

2009 Selbach Riesling Dry
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Region
Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete
$10, 11% abv.

There have been a few vintages of this "fish label" Riesling, a great example of one of my favorite trends in German wine: simpler, friendlier labels. And I can say that with all the pineapple, jasmine, and tropical fruit in this wine that it would be perfect wine to go along with something like grilled grouper with a mango salsa. I also got the oddest craving for Cuban food while I was drinking it, which makes me think about a theme dinner centered around a love story between an East German gymnast and a Cuban boxer during the 1980 Summer Olympics in Moscow.

The magic of wine is that it sometimes inspires the most bizarre thoughts. But speaking of magic...

2004 Pfeffingen Herrenberg Riesling Beerenauslese
Pfalz (Palatinate) Region
$45/375mL, 6% abv.

I was proud to serve this at the October CATNGA Summit with Samantha and Joe, and both of them enjoyed it. Overripe peach and a whiff of petrol, with bright acidity and an intoxicating, slightly musky aroma despite the very low alcohol content. Elements of clover and a light floral nose. Firm sugar but not overwhelming. While I do not have a sweet tooth, some of my favorite wine memories involve incredible botrytized wines with a decent bit of cellar time on them. 2004 wasn't that far away, but this particular wine has aged gracefully. Highly recommended if you can find it, but if not, try to enjoy a good Beerenauslese or Trockenbeerenauslese. It will be a memorable experience.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

CATNGA Summit

I had the distinct pleasure of spending time this weekend with two fellow winebloggers here in my home state of Tennessee, in my home town of Memphis: Californian Samantha Dugan of Samantha Sans Dosage and Georgian Joe Herrig of Suburban Wino. Both were in town for different reasons, those reasons being red, white, and sparkling. Longtime friend Grace served as hostess for this epic meeting, Lady A brought dessert, and we spent a leisurely afternoon with good food, good wine, and lots of fun conversation.

UPDATE: Joe's Story, Sam's Story regarding the meetup.

I met Samantha through her comments on my blog years ago, and have kept in touch ever since. I've always admired her unique voice and thorough knowledge of French wines, and though we'll never agree on Pinotage I know I'll always get a hug when I see her.

This is actually my second time meeting Sam and her husband Carl in person--they came by last July and we had a blast. Can't wait for them to come back again.

I don't recall the first time I encountered Joe, but it was around the time that I was taking notice of the growing community of Atlanta winebloggers. I think I noticed one of his comments on another blog, followed the link, and began reading his site. A guy who enjoys barbecue and peppers his wine reviews with 80s pop culture references? How could I not read Suburban Wino.

The fun thing about meeting Joe in person is that he's exactly like he is on the blog. The conversation moved from e-mail to verbal seamlessly, and machinations are in place for a future Nashville gathering. Stay tuned!

Friday night we met in the Cooper-Young district for dinner at The Beauty Shop, one of my local favorites. The good thing about Cooper-Young is that if someone in your group changes his or her mind, there are a lot of other options nearby. But they trusted me, and we enjoyed an amazing dinner. Joe and Carl went for the seafood while Sam and I were chowing down on rare red meat. Hers was a cherry smoked ribeye and I had a pair of lamb chops in a berry sauce, accompanied by fingerling potatoes smashed with goat cheese. I also had a martini made with a gin from Little Rock, Arkansas, but that will have to wait for another post.

Saturday at noon we all gathered at Grace's house for wine and food. I was particularly excited to try this gem that Joe brought along:

2009 Wolf Mountain Blanc de Blancs Brut
Dahlonega, Georgia (about 75 miles NE of Atlanta)
$26, 12.5% abv.
Made in the traditional méthode champenoise from Chardonnay. This is the first Georgia wine I've ever had, and I fear any more in the future will be a disappointment. This is a well-made sparkler with hints of yeast and toast on the nose that give way to a crisp and dry flavor with just enough acidity to balance things out.

Fried chicken is such a great natural pairing with sparkling wine, and due to the regional associations it would be easy to suggest that. But I really found myself craving oysters when I tried this wine. Maybe with a tiny dash of cilantro-serrano-grapefruit salsa on top of each twitching bivalve.

I don't have detailed notes on these wines. I was mostly just having fun and enjoying wine without overthinking it, which everyone needs to do from time to time. Many thanks to Joe and Sam for doing the heavy lifting on the wine here, and for hauling everything across multiple time zones. But here's a few links in case you want more information.

NV Ulysse Collin Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut

NV Quattro Mani Franciacorta Brut

2004 Agrapart & Fils Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Minéral

Dagueneau Blanc Fumé de Pouilly

2009 Domaine Ostertag Pinot Noir

2008 Ronchi di Cialla Colli Orientali del Friuli Rosso
Got to add a new grape to my list with this one, made from Refosco and Schiopettino ("gunshot").

There was also a Vouvray, and I think I'm forgetting some others, plus my sole vinous contribution: a Pfeffingen Beerenauslese that was quite nice. More notes on that later...

This post has gone on way too long, so I'll conclude with some photos from lunch:

After some cheese and olives, I did a simple salad with spinach, strawberries, Gorgonzola, and a balsalmic vinaigrette.


The night before, I made bœuf bourguignon using most of a bottle of Chilean Carménère. I used leeks and shallots instead of onion, and was happy with the results.


The tandoori-spiced pumpkin custard was not a big hit (I'll give full details in a future post), but Joe provided a pairing of Moon Pies and RC Cola for those that had never experienced that Southern treat. It was the first time I'd ever seen RC Cola served in delicate espresso cups. The real dessert was Lady A's gift of apple pie and gelato.


After cleaning up and a lot of goodbye hugs, this guy went home and slept for a few hours. A great time was had by all, and thanks to everyone who contributed and made it possible.