Lobster & Wine Pairing

I recently received a package of samples from LobsterAnywhere.com, a New England supplier of Maine lobster and other regional delicacies. They have some great gift combinations available, and keep in mind that the prices include overnight shipping anywhere in the United States. I got a pair of North Atlantic tails (200g/7oz each, and not the Caribbean rock lobster tails you see in this part of the country), a pint of clam chowder, and a small key lime pie. Everything arrived still frozen, a great testament to proper packaging. The box made a trip from Lowell, MA to Memphis, TN in the dead of summer with a properly packed styrofoam container and the right amount of dry ice.

Julia and I started out with the rich and creamy chowder, which was the best I've had since visiting Boston back in 2005. The potatoes managed to remain in perfect cubes without being mushy, and there were large chunks of clam meat present. The frozen soup is shipped in a plastic pouch that can be warmed up in a pan of hot water, though I let it thaw naturally in the fridge and warmed it up on a low setting in the microwave. (And I gave my bowl a few dashes of hot sauce for good measure.)

In the past I've either steamed or grilled tails whole, but this time I decided to try the proper butterfly or piggyback preparation. Simply cut the top of the tail down to the end, crack open a bit, and gently perch the meat (still attached) on top. It not only looks elegant but elevates the meat so that it does not sit in liquid during cooking. 10 minutes at 200°C/400°F is all it took, though some prefer to baste beforehand with clarified butter, paprika, and other seasonings.

The tail was amazingly tender, sweet, and delicate. Not rubbery in the slightest, and a far milder and gentler experience than any lobster tail I've had in the past. I will also note that they arrived deveined and cleaned, and no real prep beyond splitting the shell was required on my part.

The key lime pie came from the Ever So Humble® Pie Company of Walpole, Massachusetts. A crumbly graham cracker crust with a rich filling, and just the right balance of tart and sweet. Since I don't have much of a sweet tooth, I had only intended to have a quarter of the little five-inch pie, but ended up eating half of it.

What wines to serve with such a meal? My favorite wine to pair with any sort of shellfish is Sancerre. It's great with lobster, but truly shines with oysters and scallops. Lately I've also been turned onto Alsatian Pinot Gris with shrimp, and when we're talking about a big crawfish boil, if I'm not drinking beer I like an inexpensive sparkling wine like Prosecco. In general, I want something that performs well when cold (since I'm usually the one steaming or grilling or broiling), has bright acidity, and if there's a touch of stony minerals, even better. For a clambake or any other casual "hands-on" seafood dining, skip the wine glasses and drink out of tumblers or whatever is handy. (You can also check out some prior posts on lobster rolls and shrimp grits cooked in lobster stock.)

For this particular meal I went with Italian whites. I served the wines of Mazzoni, a new partnership between the Franceschi family of Montalcino and the Terlato family of Napa.

2011 Mazzoni Pinot Grigio
Tuscany
100% Pinot Grigio
$20, 13.5% abv.

Ripe apricot aromas and flavors dominate with a big, round body. This is not one of your watery, weak Pinot Grigio bottles, but rather a fairly substantial white wine with good acidity. I found it to work well with the clam chowder, and it held up well with the black pepper and hot sauce.

2011 Mazzoni Bianco di Toscana
Tuscany
90% Vermentino, 10% Chardonnay
$20, 13% abv.

This was a more gentle wine with a light peach profile, slightly musky undertones, and a bright acidic finish. Just a little touch of minerals underneath provided some well-enjoyed depth, and overall it had the right balance of characteristics to go well with the lobster tail.

Note: These wines and the food were provided as samples.

Lobster Salad, Vinho Verde, and a Wine Chiller

I found myself on a Saturday with lobsters, Vinho Verde, and a wine product for review. Time to multitask.

I've written about lobster rolls many times but at this point, I think I enjoy them more than a freshly steamed lobster. I grab a couple of the pre-cooked and frozen lobsters from the grocery store when they go on sale, thaw them, shell them, and then dice up the meat with mayonnaise, bell pepper, black pepper, and a few other bits of magic. Tossed on a buttery split-top bun, the lobster salad is heavenly. For the ease of serving a quick and refreshing lunch, I like sea salt and vinegar kettle chips.

Now we need something to wash down that sammich. With perfect timing, a pair of wines from Vinho Verde had arrived on the quarterly schedule. While both were repeats for me, I was delighted to try them and found them to be an excellent match on a lazy holiday weekend.

NV Gazela Vinho Verde
Vinho Verde, Portugal
Loureiro, Arinto, Trajadura, Avesso, and Azal
$6, 9% abv.

Gazela, meaning "gazelle" in Portuguese, is using the tag line sabe bem com a vida ("goes well with life"). I've had this wine many times in the past and it's one of the best wines you'll find at the six dollar level. Crisp, light and delicate, barely any bubbles. Mild citrus notes with just a hint of flowers and tropical fruit. Easy and very enjoyable when iced down and sipped with appetizers.

NV Las Lilas Vinho Verde
Vinho Verde, Portugal
85% Loureiro, 7.5% Trajadura, 7.5% Arinto
$10, 10% abv.

Dry and crisp with aromas of jasmine and flowers, appropriate for a wine named after lilacs. This one had a rounder body and a fuller mouthfeel, and was almost entirely still. An excellent dry Portuguese white wine that plays well off the saltiness from the lobster.

The Gazela was chilled in the Cool Coat designed by Dane Jakob Wagner, included in the MODaffekt design collection. While my own house is not supplied with modern Scandinavian products, this group does have some neat products, like a combination decanter/aerator, and for some reason, the splash! bowl tickles my fancy.

The Cool Coat retails for $45 and features a freezable insert sleeve that you can't see in my above photo but does the main work of chilling the wine. You can unbutton the coat for more callipygian sparkling bottles, and the collar can be adjusted to your own desired degree of "popped".

It is expensive for something that can be replaced by a nearby refrigerator, but the stitching is perfect, the outer fabric is reflective and looks beautiful close up, and frankly, whenever I see the little white and green shirt hugging a bottle I smile a little. Maybe I'm experiencing hygge. It's very sturdy and should hold up well for years to come.

Note: These wines and the cool coat were provided as samples.

Shrimp and Grits Cooked in Lobster Stock

For my birthday dinner, I found myself craving shrimp and grits. But I wanted to elevate the dish a bit, and I noticed that the local grocery store had a bunch of frozen cooked lobsters. These are usually the slow, old ones that are about to die and are sold off at a bargain price. I prefer steaming live lobsters, but for certain applications the sleepers are perfect and economical. I pulled out the meat, saved the shells, deveined the tails, and munched on a little roe from the female of the pair. All shells were rinsed while diced onion, carrot, and celery were slowly browning in the stock pot.

What to do with all that lobster meat? I chopped it up with onion, celery, yellow onion, and mayo to make a traditional New England lobster roll appetizer. A little lemon juice and paprika added a necessary kick.

Julia was a huge fan of the lobster roll, and I served it with little gherkins of both the mild and hot variety, except that the hot "Zingers" from Kroger were milder than a limp green bell pepper from Subway. Strongly disappointed in the hot pickles, but the lobster salad on a soft butter roll was the perfect combination of creamy, salty, crunchy, and spicy.

Meanwhile the lobster stock simmered away, filling the entire house with the smell of lobster. A deep brown broth was rolling along just below the boiling point...

The lobster stock was strained twice and combined with grits until the proper consistency was acquired. Meanwhile, I browned pork sausage with onion, celery, and garlic and butter, combined with some flour to make a roux. I deglazed with white vermouth and then added a pound of grey tiger shrimp.

At the same time, I was braising some baby bok choy with Chinkiang vinegar and adding duranguense cheese to the grits. Smacked everything around in the various pots and skillets and served it hot and steaming with a quick sprinkle of curly parsley.

The flavor was incredible, and because it's my birthday I'll pat myself on the back. The concentrated flavor the lobster stock and rich cheese really elevated the grits, while the pan sauce made the shrimp sing. Julia found the bok choy a little bitter, but I enjoyed the contrast against the sweet and savory elements on the plate.

I added some dried Aleppo pepper and a few splashes of Trappey's Peppers in Vinegar. While delicious, I wanted a little more zing and heat in the dish, and there's nothing wrong with adjusting seasoning at the table.

Thanks to Michael Hughes of Joe's Wines & Liquors for picking out this wine for me. I was craving Sancerre to go along with this dish but couldn't find any in the greater Cordova area.

2009 Fournier Sancerre "Les Belles Vignes"
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$30, 13% abv.

Pleasant aromas of lemon zest and minerals, with a bright and refined body. Acidity is balanced by a deeper and more complex structure. The minerals linger on the finish. Highly recommended, and a perfect pairing with the low country cooking.