Phifer Pavitt Wines

Over the holidays I tried two bottles of Phifer Pavitt Wine, made by the husband-wife team of Suzanne Phifer Pavitt and Shane Pavitt. Small production in Napa? You don't have to twist my arm.

I was enchanted by the labels with the image of a 1940s-1950s cowgirl. The woman formerly known as The Roommate had a lot of vintage cowgirl images around the place, though she could back it up with firing an impressive array of weaponry and wrangling horses as well. Nice little reminder during the nostalgic days of winter.

2012 Phifer Pavitt Date Night Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley, California
588 Cases Produced
$30, 14.5% abv.

Surprising touch of sweetness with overripe peach aromas and flavors. Big acidity. It is a bold and brassy Sauvignon Blanc that needs a rich roasted chicken or game bird dish for balance.

2011 Phifer Pavitt Date Night Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, California
875 Cases Produced
$80, 14.5% abv.

Firm nose but gentle mouthfeel. Dark cassis, coffee, leather, a little touch of herbal complexity underneath. Elegant and deserving of a bit of decanting at this young age. Should be enjoyed with the rarest slice out of an eight pound ribeye roast and a side of herbed new potatoes. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2013 Line 39 Sauvignon Blanc

Founded in California in 2007, the Cecchetti Wine Company produces wine under five different brands: Austerity, Backhouse, Exitus, Redtree, and the source of this bottle, Line 39. As I mentioned in my 2013 review, this label is named after 39°N latitude, which runs right through Lake County, north of Sonoma and Napa.

Most people think of Sauvignon Blanc as a summer beverage, but I find it refreshing in the darker, colder days of fall. It's a reminder of sunshine and green grass and picnics. And a bottle invariably ends up on the Thanksgiving table, where it provides a tart accompaniment to ham and turkey.

2013 Line 39 Sauvignon Blanc
Lake County, California
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$11, 13.1% abv.

This Sauvignon Blanc opens up with aromas of grapefruit pith and lime peel. Tart and crisp with a quick and tangy finish. Perfect with a smoked chicken salad full of grapes and diced apples.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Hourglass Tasting

For the second year in a row, I've gotten the chance to taste a quartet of half bottles from Hourglass Vineyard in Napa Valley. My first tasting was in January 2013 and these were sampled a few months ago.

Napa is still recovering from the recent earthquake, so if you want to support those winemakers, growers, and everyone involved in the local industry, consider drinking a Napa wine this weekend. There has been a lot of damage to barrel rooms and cellars throughout the region, and your wine dollars do make a difference.

2013 Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$40/750ml bottle

This is one of those bottles that I'd love to pour for a blind tasting. Unlike a lot of California Sauvignon Blanc, it is light, gentle, and restrained. There are slight elements of citrus and herbs but the presentation is so delicate. I would serve it with grilled quail and a simple salad.

2012 Blueline Estate Merlot
Napa Valley/Calistoga
91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

The Merlot opens up with aromas of stewed fruits and pencil shavings. The tannins are extremely mild, leading to a soft but long finish. Outstanding with a veal chop seasoned with Herbes de Provence.

2012 Blueline Estate Malbec
Napa Valley/Calistoga
75% Malbec, 25% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

This is a great Bordeaux blend of two grapes that you don't often see in the forefront in that region. Dominant profile of black cherry, with touches of dried cranberry on the back. On the nose there is a pleasant earthiness, while the strong tannins show a wine that should develop beautifully over the next few years. For now, this is a great Saturday night steak wine.

2012 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
83% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot
$135/750ml bottle

The price might seem high for a Cabernet Franc but it will show you just how expressive this tiny grape can be. It is rich and dark with a pronounced cassis flavor. A sniff yields touches of black pepper, chocolate, and leather. The tannins are firm but not overbearing and again, it is one that will only improve with proper aging. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Josh Cellars Wines & Contest for First Responders

Josh Cellars and the Gary Sinise Foundation are teaming up with a contest to award five first responder organizations $10,000 each. To nominate your local volunteer fire department, for instance, go to Facebook and complete the entry form. First responders are not only police officers and firemen but also trained civilians that are either part of an official support program (like my father) or merely happen to be in the right place at a bad time. Growing up in Scouts, I received first aid, CPR, and lifeguard training, but Dad also had my brother and me attend courses for weather emergencies, airport crash drills, and taught us on the actual scene how to assist as first responders for a horrific car accident.

The entry window for the contest is open until September 17, so be sure to suggest your local organization soon! (Rules here.)

2012 Josh Cellars Sauvignon Blanc
Sonoma County
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$13, 13.5% abv.

Very mild and gentle, light acidity. Trace scents of flowers with a restrained profile of grapefruit and lime peel. Perfect with a smoked turkey and avocado sandwich.

2012 Josh Cellars Pinot Noir
California
100% Pinot Noir
$17, 13.5% abv.

This Pinot Noir shows notes of plum and leather. On the palate there are medium tannins and a long finish. As it is still relatively young, I'd suggest decanting for an hour before serving with grilled steaks or roast lamb.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Villa Maria Wines of New Zealand

With a name like Villa Maria, it's got to be... New Zealand?

Yes indeed... And on top of that, the winery does not have a Spanish or Italian background. It was founded by Sir George Fistonich, the son of Croatian immigrants who got tired of being a carpenter and decided to start growing wine grapes in 1961.

New Zealand is often associated with only Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, but Villa Maria has a pretty wide range including rosé and sparkling wines.

2014 Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$15, 12.5% abv.

The wine opens up with a bold gooseberry profile with an herbal edge. On the palate it is tart with firm acidity. I enjoyed it with a nice tuna salad sandwich, where the bright citrus style made a nice contrast with the creamy food.

2013 Villa Maria Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$20, 13% abv.

These two wines are an outstanding example of how different two wines can be from the same grape. The Cellar Selection is far more restrained nose with a hint of orange blossom, not the powerful grapefruit you might be expecting from New Zealand. It is more light and delicate with just enough acidity to achieve proper balance. Highly recommended for serving with good scallops and a simple summer salad.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Nuvino Wine Pouches

While tasting the wines from Nuvino packaged in foil pouches, I did not think about Capri Sun as much as I did the space program, and how it felt like the kind of beverage packaging that one would need in zero gravity. That took me back to something I made last year for an April Fools post that I ended up scrapping, but I still like the fake label that I made for a hypothetical wine made on board the International Space Station.

On the 45th anniversary of the Apollo 11 moon landing, I found myself sipping wine out of a foil/plastic pouch of the sort that would be very convenient on the ISS or other spacecraft. Indeed, fellow Presbyterian Buzz Aldrin celebrated communion on the moon with a little vial of wine, and of course the Russians have had no problem sending up adult libations over the years. (There was an early idea to provide astronauts with sherry on Skylab, but that got nixed and since then the US space program has had a zero alcohol policy.)

These four wines are packaged in 187mL pouches made by PreservPak and marketed by Nuvino. Each pouch is a single serving and retails for $4, which is a fairly good bargain since you're getting a fourth of a bottle versus the traditional fifth in a glass.

2013 Sauvignon Blanc
Maule Valley, Chile
13% abv.

Clean and mild, gentle Meyer lemon flavors. Round body and a quick finish.

2013 Chardonnay
Cape Winelands, South Africa
13.5% abv.

Light apricot, no oak, mild finish. Really very delicate for a Southern hemisphere Chardonnay.

2013 Malbec
Maipu, Argentina
14.5% abv.

Dominant profile of prune and stewed fruits with a little ash and leather.

2013 Red Blend
Swan Hill, Australia
13.9% abv.

Blackberry and chocolate with firm tannins and a long, lingering finish.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Charles Krug Wine Tasting

Charles Krug is the oldest winery in Napa, dating back to 1861 when a Prussian immigrant got into the wine business. It didn't really achieve greatness until after Prohibition when Cesare Mondavi purchased the company, and the rest is history. Earlier this week I got to join an online tasting of these four wines with Peter Mondavi, Jr.

2013 Charles Krug Limited Release Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$35, 13.6% abv.

The lone white wine of the tasting has remarkable funky tones, and I say that as a good thing. Grass, gooseberry, a little earth and a powerful body make this a really fascinating Sauvignon Blanc. Keep this one around for that savory duck in mole sauce dish that you've always been wanting to try.

2011 Charles Krug Napa Valley Merlot
Napa Valley
84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Sirah, 3% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot
$25, 14% abv.

Smooth cherry aromas and flavors with a hint of coffee on the edge. Mild, round body with a gentle finish. Excellent Old World balance at work here.

2011 Charles Krug Family Reserve Generations
Napa Valley
87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec, 3% Merlot
$50, 13.9% abv.

My favorite of the tasting, this bottle showed complex aromas of plum and stewed fruit but with low tannins and a delicate mouthfeel. Well-aged at this point but with great potential over the next few years. Highly recommended, and serve with rare lamb.

2011 Charles Krug Family Reserve Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec
$75, 13.7% abv.

The most Bordeaux-like of the the three Bordeaux-style blends, this Cab Sav showed up early with hints of pyrazine, tobacco, leather, and cassis. Firmer tannins than the Generations, and one that benefits from longer breathing now and longer aging in the future. But otherwise a phenomenal steak wine, and a great choice for those that want a stronger red on the table.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

McGah Family Cellars

McGah Family Cellars is operated by the family that founded and ran the Oakland Raiders franchise from 1960-2005 in various forms. I can't really speak much to the football portion of this review except that I tried these the day after Oakland lost to Denver 37-21. I did not have a dog in the fight, as I am a fan of the Cleveland Browns and accept all arguments that come with that position. Why do I not root for my hometown Tennessee Titans? Well, when the Houston Oilers spent a season in Memphis they didn't get a lot of love, knowing that they would find their final home in Nashville. Besides, Memphis is a town where everyone roots for a different sports team, and it's not even city specific. You'll find a Steelers fan who loves the White Sox and wears a Hartford Whalers jersey when appropriate. It's all mixed up. During the year I spent in the great city of Cleveland, Ohio, or as I prefer to call it, the Metropolis of the Western Reserve, I finally discovered what it was like to be in a city where you could walk through a neighborhood and, depending on the season, there would be flags of the Indians, the Browns, or the Cavaliers flying from every door stoop.

With that being said, let's move on to the wines.

2011 McGah Family Cellars 1070 Green Sauvignon Blanc
Rutherford, California
91% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Semillon
541 cases made
$25, 14.2% abv.

Interesting Bordeaux Blanc blend that has a lot of New World elements. Lots of lime pith and fresh grass with bright acidity and a long, lingering herbal finish. One that needs to be served cold with a platter of raw shellfish and no other accompaniment.

2010 McGah Family Cellars Scarlett Cabernet Sauvignon
Rutherford, California
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
267 cases made
$60, 14.9% abv.

A seasoned and serious Napa Valley Cab. Black cherry and green bell pepper aromas emerge at first, while elements of leather and tobacco develop as it opens. Deep berry flavors on the palate with a strong and medium tannic finish. Certainly one that you will want to save for a dry-aged steak topped with red wine butter.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Chilean Sauvignon Blanc and Oysters

Is this a dagger which I see before me?

No, it is an oyster knife, something I've always wanted to own. I don't think I've ever seen one for sale around here, and it's not something that I thought about ordering online since I don't open a lot of oysters. This is a crucial kitchen tool for opening what looks like an inedible rock and also one of the murder weapons available in the New England release of the board game Clue ^{[citation needed]}.

Structurally, the knife is not sharp and while it is possible to hurt yourself, it is engineered to work more like a woodworking tool than anything you keep in your tidy knife block on the counter. With the palm-sized rounded wooden handle and short flat blade, it operates more like an awl or a chisel.

The knife came packaged with a set of four Sauvignon Blancs from Wines of Chile and the suggestion to pair them with oysters. I leapt at the opportunity and immediately grabbed a dozen oysters from the international market to practice. It's a little hard to explain the technique, but you just use the point to coax it open a little and then the rest is a twisting motion. If you just stab at it blindly you're liable to drive it through your palm.

For the occasion, I made a traditional mignonette sauce with sherry vinegar, white wine vinegar, and minced shallots. I also tried a little of the Gold's prepared beets and horseradish. The former was delicious, while the latter provided a curious if messy treat.

The bright white wines proved to be a good balance against the buttery, salty molluscs. Here are brief reviews of the quartet:

2012 William Cole Columbine Special Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
Casablanca Valley
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$15, 13% abv.

The lightest of the tasting, this one was tart and lemony with good minerality. My favorite wine with oysters is Sancerre (also made from Sauvignon Blanc), and this one was the closest to that style.

2012 MontGras Reserva Sauvignon Blanc
San Antonio Valley
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$9, 13.5% abv.

Got a little whiff of asparagus on this one, not quite a sulfur taint but more of a pyrazine herbal quality that I enjoyed. Restrained grapefruit aromas and flavors with a clean finish.

2012 Cono Sur Bicicleta Sauvignon Blanc
San Antonio Valley
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$9, 13% abv.

There's a touch of sweetness that slides into medium acidity with a soft mouthfeel. Particularly good with some of the tangy mignonette sauce.

2012 Mayu Sauvignon Blanc
Elqui Valley
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$15, 13% abv.

This was our favorite of the four. Light and mild with gentle citrus aromas and flavors, and a smooth and round body that was pleasant and easy to drink. Outstanding balance in all directions.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Nobilo Wines

Nobilo Wines was founded in 1943 when Croatian immigrant Nikola Nobilo started making wine in New Zealand. He and his wife Zuva had arrived in 1936 and helped initiate the NZ wine industry.

I've tried many Nobilo wines in the past and recently got the opportunity to sample three recent releases.

2012 Nobilo Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$8, 12.5% abv.

Aromas and flavors of gentle citrus with medium acidity and a short finish. Quite tasty with an afternoon tuna fish sandwich.

2012 Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$14, 13% abv.

Bright and fruity with tons of grapefruit. Floral nose, high acidity, long finish. Good match for grilled amberjack with a tangy Asian slaw.

2012 Nobilo Icon Pinot Noir
Marlborough
100% Pinot Noir
$15, 13% abv.

Lovely ripe cherry aromas with a little hint of baked pie crust underneath. Tart but with mild tannins, low acidity, and a long finish. I enjoyed this pleasant little red with a steak sandwich full of onions. Nice to play the vibrant fruit flavors against the earthy onion elements.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Cape Classics Wines of South Africa

This particular batch of samples came as a result of my participation in the Snooth PVA Wines of South Africa tasting in New York City. It turns out that the PR specialist who contacted me for these wines was in the room that day, but because things were a bit rushed, we didn't get a chance to meet. I will make a note for all future encounters with winemakers, public relations personnel, and salespeople: even if I look serious and determined (perhaps even unintentionally grouchy) while tasting, I am always happy to meet people in the business and exchange cards. In that particular instance, I missed out on great opportunities to talk about my collection of African stamps and my love of the adventure novels of South African author Wilbur Smith.

2011 Raats Original Chenin Blanc Unwooded
Coastal Region
100% Chenin Blanc
$15, 13.5% abv.

Known as Steen in South Africa, Chenin Blanc is the most widely planted grape in the country. This unoaked version is light, crisp, and mineral with a touch of bitter lemon peel. I found myself craving fried calamari, which I think would be a pretty decent pairing.

2012 Indaba Chardonnay
Western Cape
100% Chardonnay
$12, 13.5% abv.

Light peach aromas and flavors, low acidity, round body, and a long floral finish. Fairly delicate from this historic winery, and highly recommended for a simple roast chicken and potatoes dinner.

2012 Bayten Sauvignon Blanc
Constantia
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$15, 14% abv.

Bayten is the new brand name for the more traditional, yet less pronounceable Buitenverwachting. Full of grapefruit but with more complex tropical fruit notes as it warms up. Time to break out one of those salads that has golden beets and goat cheese.

2013 DeMorgenzon Cabernet Rosé
Western Cape
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$12, 13.2% abv.

This winery plays Baroque music throughout the vineyards 24/7 with the belief that the tunes help the vines. I can't speak to that scientifically, but it sounds like it would be pleasant to take a stroll through the property. This rosé has delicious light fruit flavors of watermelon and crabapple. On the palate it is dry and mild with a clean and quick finish. I think that it's a perfect appetizer wine that would pair well with a wide range of flavors.

2011 Kanonkop Kadette
Stellenbosch
57% Pinotage, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc
$15, 14% abv.

Solid, strong red with the Bordeaux grapes providing a nice balance to the Pinotage. Elements of plum and spice with hints of leather and coffee. Excellent with a little breathing, and great with a good rare steak.

2009 Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon
Stellenbosch
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$41, 14.5% abv.

Major complexity from a single grape. The wine opens up early with a nose of tobacco, coffee, and licorice. Chocolate and blackberry flavors follow with medium tannins and a long, dark finish. If ever a wine was made for winter, it was this one, and while it was cold in the Southern Hemisphere when I tried it, I think this one would be perfect up here in November or December with something rich and decadent like roast lamb shanks and a rich dried fig sauce.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Mud House Wines and the America's Cup

Mud House Wines is the official wine supplier of the Emirates Team New Zealand in the 2013 America's Cup. Having won the Louis Vuitton Cup, they will go on to challenge Oracle Team USA off the coast of San Francisco.

Starting in 1851, the Cup was won by the New York Yacht Club every year until 1983 when the crew of the Australia II of the Royal Perth Yacht Club emerged victorious. I can remember the excitement in 1987 when the US Stars & Stripes 87 defeated the New Zealand Kookaburra III. Since the 80s, there's been a lot of attention and technological development around this particular race, yet it's nice to know that there's still so much enthusiasm around wind-propelled sea vessels.

2012 Mud House Riesling
Waipara Valley
100% Riesling
$12, 12.5% abv.

The nose is dominated by light green apple and honey, while the flavor is crisp and acidic. Very similar to New Zealand Rieslings I've had in the past, and one that would be perfect with a ham sandwich on a picnic.

2012 Mud House Pinot Gris
South Island
100% Pinot Gris
$16, 13.% abv.

Rich floral aromas that also include peach and apricot. Ripe white fruit flavors and a clean, round finish. Great with a cold chicken salad full of grapes and walnuts.

2011 Mud House Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$14, 13% abv.

A standard New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc with full grapefruit peel aromas and flavors. Touch of spice on the palate and a long, acidic finish. Serve with creamy cheeses and melon.

2011 Mud House Pinot Noir
Central Otago
100% Pinot Noir
$19, 13.5% abv.

In addition to a strong overripe strawberry profile, there is a back end of green bell pepper that I wasn't expecting. It starts out a little harsh, but after an hour of breathing the wine softens considerably and is ready for fare like grilled veal chops. It's a bold enough Pinot Noir that it can stand up to some strong sauces and preparations.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Hedges Wines of Washington

I've tried the wines of Hedges Family Estate many times over the years, and was eager to give them a new sip and swirl here in 2013. I was delighted to see that so many of them showed up wearing throwback labels--in this case, a specific design style from the 60s and 70s in the United States, primarily on the west coast. The general idea was to look vaguely European but not adhering to any one country. So you'll see elements of classic German, French, and Italian wine label design all jumbled up. These are more noticeable in the second trio of wines below: elaborate coats-of-arms that don't represent an actual royal house, the diagonal phrase in a different ink, competing gothic and italic calligraphy, gold leaf, etc.

To see some real life examples from the early 70s, check out this vintage book I reviewed in 2007. Alas, I have to remind myself to ignore the fun graphic design and actually taste the wines on their own merits...

2011 Hedges CMS Red
Columbia Valley
49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, 4% Syrah
$14, 13.5% abv.

Touch of stewed fruit, sour cherry. Mild mouthfeel and a brief finish. Loved this with some stewed pork shoulder.

2011 Hedges Red Mountain
Red Mountain AVA
Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot
$29, 13.5% abv.

Black cherry and pepper, undertones of plum and blackberry. A pleasant little blend that would go well with a grilled steak on a Saturday afternoon.

2012 CMS Sauvignon Blanc
85% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Chardonnay, 5% Marsanne
$14, 14% abv.

Crisp and refreshing with notes of apricot and a splash of lemony acidity. Found myself wanting more Marsanne--not because the wine was out of balance, I just love that grape. Serve with Oysters Rockefeller during an appetizer course.

2011 HIP Merlot
Columbia Valley
100% Merlot
$14, 13%

HIP stands for "House of Independent Producers", and this and the next wine focus on a single grape variety from a specific winemaker. This gentle Merlot is definitely made in the French style with mild cherry flavors and a light body, light years away from the bold fruit bombs of California. The first domestic Merlot I've had that I think is appropriate for serving with salmon.

2011 HIP Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$14, 13.5% abv.

The Chardonnay from this series has a surprising aroma of Meyer lemon, with flavors to match. There is that nice balance between acid and cream, and I served this one with a simple salad topped with dried figs and toasted pistachios and goat cheese.

2011 Descendants Liégeois Dupont Syrah
Red Mountain AVA
100% Syrah
$29, 14% abv.

Lastly, we have a proprietary blend done in a Rhône style. Plum and spice, mild tannins, and a deep, dark finish. A substantial and fruity red that demands a big dish. I had it with a bleu cheese burger, but think that it would be a nice accompaniment to game like venison or duck. Let it breathe and decant for a bit to enjoy all of the flavors of the wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Barefoot Wines of July

It's summer and it's time for a handful of inexpensive bottles that you can throw on ice and enjoy with whatever you've got on the grill. For example, here's a trio of Gallo's Barefoot Wines from California.

NV Barefoot Sauvignon Blanc
100% Sauvignon Blanc
California
$7, 13% abv.

Light, gentle lime peel flavor, round mouthfeel with low acid and a soft finish. Recommended as an appetizer wine with those bacon wrapped shrimp coming off the fire.

NV Barefoot Zinfandel
100% Zinfandel
California
$7, 13% abv.

Big and jammy with dark fruit. Dominant profile of black plum with undertones of cherry. A good burger and pizza wine.

NV Barefoot Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir
California
$7, 12.5% abv.

This is a fairly restrained and quiet wine, with mild blackberry aroma, no tannins, and a short finish. I ended up converting this into some really delicious sangria with the help of oranges, triple sec, and a few other bits of magic. And for the price, you could make all kinds of red wine cocktails with it.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Steelhead Vineyards

Steelhead Vineyards is a Sonoma winery named after the steelhead trout, a threatened freshwater fish species of the Pacific northwest. It's also found in the cold water streams of Northern California wine country, and this particular winery is engaged in conservation efforts to save the trout.

I love cooking and eating trout. It's got a wonderful flavor, looks beautiful on the plate, and is pretty easy to cook. And I love to fish: I've enjoyed many wonderful weekends throughout my life fishing for local bass, bluegill, perch, catfish, stripers... I'm not a master angler but I've caught and consumed many fish from our lakes, ponds, and rivers. What have I never caught? Arkansas trout. I've been on canoe trips when I was able to reach down and pick up a trout out of the water, but couldn't get one to take any sort of bait. My father and I stood bare-legged in the Ozarks' White River while watching our lures bump off the heads of the snooty brown trout. Dad thought he caught one but upon reeling it in realized that he had merely snagged it in the gills and couldn't claim it as a catch.

I'm willing to admit that part of it might be my own technique and experience: bass have been known to gobble up frogs, slow moving birds, and anything else that moves. Catfish will gobble up the most rancid scraps of chicken liver hung off a trotline--no actual rod and reel needed, and I won't even go into stink bait recipes. But trout seem to require such finesse and artistry, which is why they attract the hardcore fly fishers.

2011 Steelhead Sauvignon Blanc
100% Sauvignon Blanc
North Coast
3,000 Cases Made
$12, 13.5% abv.

For a bargain Sauvignon Blanc, this is quite delicate. The nose opens up with light mild peach. On the palate it has balanced acidity with a gentle round body. Quite tasty and one that would in fact match well with trout.

2011 Steelhead Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast
2,500 Cases Made
$15, 13.8% abv.

A fairly strong Pinot Noir, with elements of red cherry and bold tannins. There's a big fruit flavor with a little earth underneath, and a long finish. Sturdy for this particular grape, and perhaps well suited to roasted lamb dishes.

2010 Steelhead Red Wine
65% Zinfandel, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Syrah
North Coast
2,700 Cases Made
$15, 14.2% abv.

Another big, fruit-forward wine, but I preferred this one to the Pinot Noir. Bold plum and chocolate dominate the aroma and flavor profile. A big bodied wine with huge tannins that dry the palate, but one that I would strongly recommend for summertime BBQ dining. It would be perfect with smoked pork ribs doused in a sweet Memphis sauce.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Brancott Wines of New Zealand + Contest

Originally founded as Montana, these wines were always marketed under the Brancott name in the U.S. to avoid confusion with the Big Sky Country. Now the winery has changed its name to Brancott Estate for markets both foreign and domestic. I've enjoyed their pleasant, inexpensive wines over the many years of this blog, and in the summer heat I was excited to try a pair of their screwcap-enclosed wines again.

If you like Brancott, you may be able to win a trip to New Zealand. Details below the reviews...

Let's start with the food. I found a deal on a bunch of thick-cut lamb loin chops. I prefer rack of lamb, but when the loin chops are cut this thick, they can function as mini porterhouses of delicious, tender meat. I dressed them minimally with salt and pepper, performed a hot sear over charcoal, and then let them slow cook in the cold side of a covered BBQ grill until reaching a succulent medium rare.

For a sauce, I used a variant of Michael Symon's recipe, which is a piquant mole-style sauce incorporating sherry vinegar. I substituted some dried peppers and a few other bits of magic based on prior experience with Mexican savory chocolate sauces.

Rounding out the plate is a little medley of black beans, corn, peppers, and onion, served hot, not like a salsa. The smoky lamb and tangy sauce went perfectly together, and the side dish was just light enough to not be overwhelming. When you've got this much flavor on the plate, you don't really need to eat a pound of potatoes.

I tried both of the wines with the meal:

2012 Brancott Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Marlborough, New Zealand
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$13, 13% abv.

The classic aroma of grapefruit is there but it's balanced out by a riper apricot tone. Great combination of tart and soft body elements, tropical fruits on the tongue, leading to a crisp finish. Vegetal elements emerge as the wine warms up. Highly recommended with a bucket of steamed mussels.

2011 Brancott Estate Pinot Noir
Marlborough, New Zealand
100% Pinot Noir
$14, 13% abv.

Soft plum, strawberry, and just a background note of bacon fat. Medium tart acidity with a finish that is much rounder than expected. Overall a quite mild and refreshing Pinot Noir. I thought it was perfect with the lamb.

And if you're on Facebook, you can enter the Chill Hour Promotion to win a trip for two to New Zealand. I'm not eligible, and I get no kickback on this deal, but if you like these wines and want to enter, go for it!

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Viña Ventisquero's Queulat Wines of Chile

Chilean winery Viña Ventisquero was established in 2000 and has a pretty wide product range under several different marques. Ventisquero is an old Spanish word for glacier that is still used to name a few of them in South America. This particular line of Queulat wines is named after a breathtaking hanging glacier in the far south of Chile. (Queulat is a local Chono word meaning "sound of the waters".)

Out of the seven wines in this collection, I got to try two of them. The Pinot Noir came with a cork, while the Sauvignon Blanc was enclosed with a convenient screwcap.

2012 Queulat Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc
Leyda Valley, Chile
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$18, 13% abv.

Aromas of grapefruit pith and quince with a hint of anise. Floral elements open up with a few swirls. Firm acidity with a nice round body, resulting in a well-balanced wine. Should be great with grilled fish and fresh spring vegetables.

2011 Queulat Single Vineyard Pinot Noir
Casablanca Valley, Chile
100% Pinot Noir
$18, 13.5% abv.

Bright profile of overripe strawberries with tart acidity. Gentle tannins and a light body reveal chocolate and a little spice. I found myself craving stuffed pork chops with a lot of rosemary.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Snooth PVA: Wines of South Africa

Immediately after the Wines of Austria tasting, we were whisked away to the Institute of Culinary Education, a cooking college in the Flatiron District of Manhattan. We were there to enjoy a tasting hosted by Wines of South Africa and a lunch prepared by Johannesburg native Chef Hugo Uys.

We started out with a sparkling blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the NV Graham Beck Brut, $18. Crisp and acidic with medium bubbles and a clean finish. I enjoyed it, but after the dozen Austrian wines sampled in the previous two hours, I was a little peckish and decided to dive into the little wooden bowl of dried fruit, nuts, and meat. And it was the best beef jerky I've ever had. Shortly thereafter, the host explained it.

In the photo it's a little hard to make out the details, but the wide flat pieces are biltong, a favorite snack of South Africa. A round roast or other large cut of tough meat is cut into strips (called tongs or tongues, but it's not actually tongue meat), marinated and air-dried. I loved it, and also enjoyed the little thin dried sausages known as droëwors. Try one of those and you'll never snap into a Slim Jim again.

I've long been fascinated by the history of South Africa (sparked in no small part by the adventure novels of Wilbur Smith), and while I have tried many wines from the country, this was my first experience getting to enjoy them with the appropriate cuisine and with folks devoted to this particular wine region.

Amuse Bouche
“South African Shot”: Peppadew relish in a parmesan cup, a guava juice shot topped off with a ginger foam

This was a pleasant little snack, just enough to wake up the palate and get us ready for the wines that followed.

2012 Thelema Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, $18: A little rough on the beginning, but it later opened up with jasmine and citrus notes. Certainly more in line with Chile and New Zealand than France.

2009 Raats Family Chenin Blanc, Coastal Region, $22: Mild and fruity with gentle floral aromas and a round body.

Appetizer
Curry Mussels: Lychees, shallots, white wine and dry sherry, in a curry emulsion

I love a good batch of mussels, and these were delicious. I would never have thought of adding lychees, but it made for a nice flavor combination.

2012 De Morgenzon Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, $15: The winemakers here play Baroque music to the vines to help them grow. Light white fruit aromas and flavors with just a little vanilla from the oak. Medium acidity and a short finish.

2009 Badenhorst Family White Blend, Coastal Region, $34: A rough edge at the beginning yields some herbal and vegetal elements in this Rhône blend of six white grapes. The winemaker made his first wine at the age of thirteen.

Entrée
Smoked Ostrich: With roasted root vegetables, gorgonzola mousse, herb port reduction, homemade sultana/apricot chutney and an oven baked spicy potato chip

Excellent ostrich, and I'll be on the lookout for some thicker steaks to try and recreate this dish in the future.

2011 Warwick Pinotage Old Bush Vines, Stellenbosch, $19: Lovely aromas of ash and earth from the Pinotage, with a flavor of red cherries and raspberry seeds. The 12% Cabernet Sauvignon should help round this one out for those that are afraid of Pinotage.

2010 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, $39: Spicy and smoky at first, giving way to aromas of tart red cherries with a thin, gentle body. Very unusual for a Pinot Noir, but I thought it worked out quite well with the ostrich.

2008 Kanonkop Paul Sauer, Stellenbosch, $42: This wine is named after a hilltop where, in the 17th century, a cannon would be fired to alert everyone that ships were entering the harbor at Cape Town. It gave everyone enough notice to load up their oxcarts with food and other trade goods so they could meet the sailors. The wine has complex aromas of green bell pepper, smoke, and leather. It's a deep and dark Bordeaux-style red made with 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 19% Merlot.

2010 Boekenhoutsklouf Chocolate Block, Swartland/Citrusdal, $34: Due to the popularity of this wine, it is allocated in the United States and may be difficult to find. Interesting blend of 69% Syrah, 14% Grenache Noir, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cinsault and 1% Viognier. Cream and cherry aromas with, yes, a deep chocolate character. Deep yet smooth and very drinkable.

2009 Glenelly Lady May, Stellenbosch, $50: This venerable wine is made of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot in a traditional Bordeaux style. Lots of bell pepper and black cherry with underlying notes of coffee and leather. Medium tannins indicate that this one could age for another few years. Highly recommended with your favorite roasted meats.

2010 De Toren Fusion V, Stellenbosch, $45: Another Bordeaux blend, but this one is still quite young with very firm tannins and a long tannic finish. There is a cherry profile to the wine but I found it a little tight and not quite ready for consumption. Check again in three years.

Dessert
Tipsy Tart: Soaked in rooibos infused brandy, vanilla ice cream and a brandy date syrup

Sweet and savory and delicious, and the addition of rooibos was incredible.

2010 Ken Forrester T Late Harvest, Stellenbosch, $55: This 100% Chenin Blanc dessert wine was rich and golden with floral notes, honey, and a beautiful, slightly musky finish. Delicious and decadent.

Check out these other great reviews of the same tasting! Avvinare "New World Wines: South African Wines Continue to Excite Me", My Vine Spot "#SnoothPVA: South African Wine Lunch", Wine Julia "SnoothPVA: Wines of South Africa with Lunch at the Institute of Culinary Education"


Note: This trip was provided by Snooth.

De Martino Organic Wines of Chile

This particular wine tasting came about as a result of my new relationship with Snooth as well as my friendship with fellow blogger and journalist extraordinaire Susannah Gold, who was working with Opici, importer of these wines to the United States. Somehow, I ended up with a double set of samples. This happens occasionally, and I tend to assuage any Presbyterian guilt by giving away the extra bottles as gifts to friends and family. I happen to have a couple of neighbors from Chile that are pretty friendly, and even friendlier when I can pass them some bottles of Chilean wine. Nothing makes me happier than taking the gentle suburban nod at the mailbox to the next level.

We're talking here about the organic Chilean wines of De Martino, tasted online with the folks from Snooth, the winemakers, a bunch of my buddies from the weekend in NYC, and other wine bloggers that I have yet to meet in person.

2012 De Martino Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Maipo Valley, Chile
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$14, 13.5% abv.

Light nose of lemongrass and grapefruit pith. Very mild body with balanced acidity and a brief finish. If there was ever a wine made to go along with raw fish, this is it. I enjoyed it with some salmon and tuna sashimi, and the wasabi didn't diminish any of the flavors.

2011 De Martino Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Maipo Valley, Chile
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$14, 13.5% abv.

For a bargain cab sav, this one is quite gentle and restrained with mild red cherry notes and low tannins. I'd suggest pairing this with roast pork and grilled vegetables.

2011 De Martino Estate Carménère
Maipo Valley, Chile
100% Carménère
$14, 13.5% abv.

Classic Carménère profile with heavy green bell pepper and meaty aromas, elements of leather and coffee. Once again, a good bargain, and strongly recommended with steak. I'm thinking a good, heavily seasoned New York strip grilled over fire with some chimichurri sauce on the side.

2010 De Martino Reserva Legado Cabernet Sauvignon-Malbec
Maipo Valley, Chile
$18, 13.5% abv.

This one was a lot of fun, with what I often think of as a "cherry pie" note: bright red cherries, toasty pie crust, and a creamy, mellow finish. That's not to imply that it's sweet, but whenever I encounter that particular combination it makes me smile. Definitely a testament to good blending. As is often the case, for this wine I don't have a specific food pairing but will instead say that it's a better match for a good book or a sentimental movie.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Lunch on the Mountain

In late April, I made my second visit to the Winthrop Rockefeller Institute on Petit Jean Mountain in central Arkansas. Julia's friend Molly runs the restaurant at the Institute, and we picked a weekend to run up there again and enjoy a peaceful and relaxing vacation away from the city. This time we were lucky to include my longtime friend, brother from another mother, mister please please please himself, Paul Jones. I hadn't seen Paul in forever, and he was kind enough to bring his better half Anna along with him.

While it's not a bad drive from Memphis (4-5 hours depending on traffic and I-40 construction), the last leg is well off the beaten path, so it's good to pack a few coolers with all the essentials. And I brought many essentials. Three different kinds of vinegar, sixteen different kinds of bitters, a mixed case of a dozen wine samples, plus a ton of food. Paul was 90 minutes behind us with a ribeye roast and the ingredients necessary to make a proper Manhattan. These things are important.

Friday evening we had our dinner with a lot of Julia and Molly's friends at the River Rock Grill at the Institute. Loads of great dishes and conversations that night, but I'm going to dive into our lunch Saturday, when I decided to bring the Munchkin burger to Petit Jean Mountain.

I formed 2 oz. hockey pucks of ground beef, liberally seasoned with soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, and in this instance, Penzey's Mitchell Street seasoning. Butter grilled slider buns, a healthy dollop of my famous red onion marmalade, a scoop of Cambozola, and a few other fixins paired with kettle chips and a homemade aïoli tinged with Sriracha sauce. I also did cheddar toppings for those that preferred a milder burger, and of course I opened a jar of garlic-dill gherkins that we've come to know as baybay pickles.

When I say I came prepared, I came prepared.

Friend of both Paul and me, the inimitable Dave R. passed along the following bottle that brought back a lot of good memories. I was a huge fan of the Bogle Petite Sirah in my early wine days and continue to admire the winery for the great bottles they produce.

2010 Bogle Essential Red
California
31% Zinfandel, 26% Petite Sirah, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Syrah
$11, 13.5%

Lots of great fruit in this wine, with aromas of plum and bright red cherry and pie crust. Firm tannins show up on the finish, but overall it is a great jammy sipper that paired quite well with the lunch, and given the great price, this one has a great QPR and is highly recommended.

Earlier in the meal I opened up a pair of Paso Robles wines from Tower 15 Winery.

2012 Tower 15 Sauvignon Blanc
Paso Robles
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$19, 13.2% abv.

Loads of bright acidity here, with flavors of lemon and apricot. Nice crisp finish. Should be served with shellfish and salad.

2012 Tower 15 Sunset Rosé
Paso Robles
93% Grenache, 7% Pinot Noir
$19, 13.7% abv.

Great raspberry elements in this dry but crisp and tangy rosé. Light, onion-skin color, with a great tart finish. These two wines were perfect for appetizers of cheese and pickles, and the convenient screwcaps were even better, because I could just hand a bottle to someone and have him serve it without fumbling for a corkscrew. Highly recommended for the upcoming summer.

Burgers with red onion marmalade, even made in the petite form, do still require a hearty red wine, and I had a pair of Argentine bottles from Alamos Wines. These were great with the griddled Munchkin burgers...

2012 Alamos Red Blend
Mendoza, Argentina
Proprietary blend of Malbec, Bonarda and Tempranillo
$13, 13.5% abv.

Brambly with those nutty elements of raspberry seeds, with good touches of earth and a slightly vegetal finish. This wine was well-received around the table.

2012 Alamos Malbec
Uco Valley, Argentina
100% Malbec
$13, 13.7% abv.

I preferred this one, which was a solid bargain Malbec. Notes of plum and spice with medium tannins and a long finish. I've had this wine so many times over the years and still consider it a solid performer in its weight class.

Coming up soon... Dinner on the Mountain!

Note: These wines were received as samples.