Terroir of Soave

I got to participate in an online tasting with Giovanni Ponchia, the head œnologist of the Soave Consortium. This is one of the most creative approaches I've ever seen with a tasting: four wines representing different soil types in the Soave region of northeast Italy. It's amazing how much the type of agriculture in an area depends on what happened millions of years ago. This part used to be under the ocean, this part was lifted up by a volcano, glaciers scraped this region down to bedrock, etc. Here in Memphis I sit atop a bunch of clastics (siltstone and shales) that have developed from the late Mesozoic (70 million years ago) to the present.

Soave is a great, food friendly wine that's pretty affordable and easy to find. It pairs well with lots of things and I've served it in the past at Thanksgiving and Christmas to people with all levels of wine experience who have enjoyed it. Here are four tasty examples, with some notes on the soil.

2010 Vicentini Terrelunghe Soave DOC
80% Garganega, 20% Trebbiano di Soave
$8, 12.5% abv.
Calcareous: containing calcium carbonate, chalky
Light acidity and a round mouthfeel with, yes, a chalky mineral finish.

2009 Cantina di Monteforte Vigneto di Montegrande Soave Superiore DOCG Classico
100% Garganega
$14, 13% abv.
Basaltic: volcanic
Floral nose with high acidity and a crisp, tart finish. Apricot flavors.

2010 Cantina di Soave Rocca Sveva Soave DOC Classico
100% Garganega
$15, 12.5% abv.
Calcareous & Basaltic
Fruity nose of banana and pineapple, mild acidity and a mineral finish.

2010 Fattori Danieli Soave DOC
100% Garganega
$14, 12.5% abv.
Basaltic & Tufaceous: the latter term refers to a type of limestone
Tropical fruit, balanced acidity and a long, soft finish.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Soave

Ah, Soave. One of the magical wines that will pair with practically anything. When it's time for a basic white wine, I'm usually happy with something from Italy. The price is generally affordable, they're not hard to find, and make a nice change of pace from the usual Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs. And because it's not something that's become hugely popular like Pinot Grigio, your guests or dinner companions get a chance to try something a little different but non-threatening. Here's a pair of wines I received recently from the Soave Consortium.

2009 Re Midas Soave
100% Garganega
$10, 12% abv.

Light and mild, with a round mouthfeel and low acidity. Touch of pineapple and lemon on the nose, minerals on the aftertaste. The style of this wine is somewhat close to Pinot Grigio. Named after King Midas, the wine is packaged in a slightly odd bottle--not strange enough to call it a novelty like one of those VOGA bottles. The bottom is a little more narrow than a standard bottle, and it expands with a gentle curve up to the shoulders. And with the purple and gold color scheme, it seems like a great target for Lakers fans. Or perhaps more appropriately, for fans of the Los Angeles Kings.

I've reviewed this same vintage of Fattori Soave before, and the following is a rare repeated review:

2009 Fattori Giovanni Motto Piane Soave
100% Garganega
$15, 14% abv.

Tropical fruit, flowers, firmer, stronger, a touch of minerals, with a nice round mouthfeel. Fermented both in oak and stainless steel. Between the two, consider this one if you prefer bigger, bolder flavors, but it's still a relatively light wine. Pack it along with a picnic and I think that you'll find that it goes beautifully with cold fried chicken, potato salad, and other summertime delights.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Soave and Thanksgiving

Around this time of year, every wine writer feels obliged to write the Thanksgiving Recommendation List, and every publicist amends their press releases to say, "This wine would be great with Thanksgiving dinner!" Frankly anything will work, and everything will fail in some way. If only you care about wine, bring something you want to drink. If your family doesn't care, don't force a vertical tasting on them. If there's a little curiosity in between, I still stand by my 2008 advice: Think PIGS. Portugal, Italy, Greece, and Spain. And with that in mind, I do think that Soave from Italy's Veneto region does go pretty darn well with turkey, ham, stuffing, and even your aunt's green bean casserole with the fried onions on top.

Made primarily from the Garganega grape, I've always enjoyed Soave. It's nothing like Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc, the two most common white grapes you'll encounter. It's easier to pronounce than other Italian whites like Verdicchio: so-AH-vay.

The other thing that is crucial for Thanksgiving is that these wines are not hard to find. You should be able to find a Soave in any decent wine shop for $10-15. And if you decide not to take it to the family gathering with you, it is even better late Thursday night with leftovers.

2009 Montresor Capitel Alto Soave Classico
80% Garganega, 20% Trebbiano di Soave
$15, 12.5% abv.

Orange blossom with a touch of grass, light citrus flavors, a round body, and a short finish. Mild and delicate. Beyond poultry and associated dishes, Soave goes very well with mildly seasoned seafood. If you buck tradition and serve a big roast salmon instead of a turkey, this will still work.

The second Soave of the lineup is a little stronger...

2009 Fattori Giovanni Motto Piane Soave
100% Garganega
$15, 14% abv

Tropical fruit, flowers, firmer, stronger, a touch of minerals, with a nice round mouthfeel. Fermented both in oak and stainless steel. Between the two, consider this one if you prefer bigger, bolder flavors, but it's still a relatively light wine.

Something that I think is crucial when it comes to a party or big dinner situation is that Soave continues to be balanced even at room temperature. There are some inexpensive Chardonnays, for instance, that become sour and almost painful to consume as they warm up, and can turn off people who don't try a dozen different wines every week. You're not going to have that problem with a lighter wine like this, and it will be an interesting change of pace for those relatives that are scared to venture beyond Pinot Grigio.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

2008 Rocca Sveva Soave

Soave is rapidly becoming one of my favorite wines. Like sparkling wines and rosés, a Soave will go along with practically anything.

The 2008 Rocca Sveva Soave comes from the Veneto region in northern Italy. $15, 12.5% abv, 100% Garganega. Initial floral and jasmine aroma with hints of Meyer lemon. There's a subtle citrus flavor profile that's not overwhelming like with a brassy Sauvignon Blanc. Medium tartness with a short finish.

I served this at a tasting with some friends where it performed well with a variety of cheeses and appetizers. However, I'd love to try it with cheese tortellini and braised rabbit. But as I said at the beginning, these wines will pair with pork, seafood, poultry--definitely something to keep on hand for those occasions when you're headed to a dinner party and don't know what's being served, or you just want an all-purpose wine at the house for any possible occasion.


Note: This wine was received as a sample.