Pink Bordeaux

As summer draws to a close and colder weather approaches, it was a pleasure to sample a pair of Bordelais rosés on a warm Sunday afternoon.

Bordeaux gets so much attention for its red wines that it is often easy to overlook the white, pink, and sparkling wines from the region. Here is a quick look at two bottles to try before the sun disappears for its winter vacation...

2013 Vieux Château Lamothe Rosé
Bordeaux, France
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Merlot
$9, 12% abv.

Thin and clean with a light Rainier cherry flavor. Delicate floral nose. Spectacular with turkey and avocado on a croissant.

2013 Jean Medeville Rosé
Bordeaux, France
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$14, 12% abv.

Nectarine and watermelon aromas and flavors abound with bright acidity. Pale and austere appearance, and it goes well with garlicky steamed clams.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Summer with French Rosé

I've always associated rosé with spring and summer, but I certainly enjoy this style of wine throughout the entire year. When it's hot outside, it's a cool and refreshing beverage. When it's cold, it's a reminder of sunshine and flowers and blue skies.

As I've said many times, pink wines get a bad rap for an association with cheap White Zinfandel or the idea that they are exclusively for women. But they're just a bridge between red and white, able to pair well with just about anything. These three are affordable selections from the South of France, where the style was perfected.

2013 Domaine les Hautes Cances Rosé
Côtes du Rhône Villages Cairanne
1st saignée: Syrah, Cinsault, Carignan
2nd saignée: Grenache
3rd saignée: Mourvèdre
$15, 13.5% abv.

This is the strongest of the three, showing bright raspberry flavors with a tart, big body and a firm finish. As you can see from the grape listing, this is due to the saignée method in which some juice is bled off (hence the name) early in the winemaking process. This gives you two things: a stronger red wine and a rosé as a byproduct. And on top of that, the rosé will be ready for consumption earlier. This one is interesting in that it involved so many different grapes in three different bleedings.

2012 Marrenon Petula Rosé
Luberon, France
95% Syrah, 5% Grenache
$12, 13% abv.

The most restrained of the three. Mild and gentle with faint notes of bing cherry. Light acidity, a delicate finish, and a wine that I would love to pair with grilled amberjack and fennel.

2013 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Rosé
Côtes du Rhône, France
Grenache & Syrah
$8, 13% abv.

This one is a repeat from April, but it's still a delightful wine. Light aromas of tart raspberry with flavors that follow, including a burst of lemony acidity. Round mouthfeel with a beautiful salmon color and a long, tart finish.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Lavau Wines of the Southern Rhône

Early in my wine journey, I was a little terrified of French wines. I didn't know a lot about them, they seemed expensive, and unlike Italian and German, I've never been fully comfortable speaking en français. To this day, I am bound to mispronounce something like Monbazillac to sound like "ball sack".

However, at a couple of tastings I was introduced to wines from the south of France, particularly the Rhône and Provence areas, and I fell in love. These were inexpensive, tasty, food-friendly wines that were not super complex but approachable. For years afterwards I'd recommend them to friends and family as a fun alternative to $10 Australian and Californian bottles. I think at that price point you get better quality from the casual regions of France, Spain, and Italy.

The region does not simply produce table wines, and I was excited to share this quartet of bottles from Lavau with my friends Angela and Jinju, with whom I attended high school [REDACTED] years ago.

2013 Lavau Tavel Rosé
Tavel AOC
50% Grenache, 45% Cinsault, 5% Syrah.
$17, 13% abv.

I am a rosé fanatic, and nobody does it quite like France. Light cherry, very gentle nose, dry but fruity, mild acidity and a slow, gentle finish. Excellent with a turkey, pesto, and Gruyère sandwich on a warm Saturday afternoon.

2012 Lavau Rasteau
Rasteau AOC
50% Grenache, 50% Syrah
$19, 13.5% abv.

Of the reds, this was the most restrained. It shows as thin and mild, with light aromas of spice and dried fruit. Actually quite refreshing in hot weather, and one that I'd recommend for serving with appetizers where it is often difficult to serve a heartier red.

2011 Lavau Vacqueyras
Vacqueyras AOC
50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre
$24, 13% abv.

The boldest red of the group opened up with a nose of plum and leather, with firm tannins and an aftertaste of tea. A chewy, big mouthfeel, and one that really cries out for grilled flank steak with chimichurri sauce.

2012 Lavau Gigondas
Gigondas AOC
50% Grenache, 40% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre
$28, 14% abv.

The Gigondas achieved the best balance of all four, with a middle range of tannins and a light red cherry profile tinged with hints of earth. This is one that I see improving with a few years of storage, and would pair well with rare rack of lamb.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Summer of Vinho Verde in Memphis

Vinho Verde continues to produce wines that are a great bargain and go well with the kinds of foods we eat here in Memphis during the summer. It's easy to think that you've only got that little green, slightly sweet wine, but the region has a great deal of diversity and I hope that everyone has the opportunity to explore this delightful region. I've reviewed eighteen bottles of Vinho Verde in the past and with these two am proud to round up to twenty.

With this pair, I've got a slightly fizzy rosé and a still white, yet you could grab both for just a little over $20. I talk a lot about "gateway" wines, and Vinho Verde certainly fits the bill. It's not just about giving someone their first taste of wine, it's also about convincing the beer drinker that, as much as we all love beer, there are other BBQ beverages out there. Ditto for Prosecco, Cava, various Crémants from France... Also, The sparkling Vinho Verde wines are great practice bottles for folks that haven't opened up a lot of sparklers. There's not a lot of pressure so if the cork pops out, nobody's going to get hurt. As I tell everyone, twist gently and let the air pressure remove the cork. No need to hit someone in the eye and dump a third of the bottle all over your trousers.

NV Las Lilas Rosé
Vinho Verde, Portugal
60% Vinhão, 30% Borraçal and 10% Espadeiro
$9, 10% abv.

Fun, slightly sweet with just a touch of fizz and a light profile of watermelon and strawberry. Pair with raw oysters and sea salt.

NV Adega Ponte de Lima Loureiro
Vinho Verde, Portugal
100% Loureiro
$12, 11% abv.

Light and crisp, delicate body with a mineral base and slightly tart touch of lemon. Even better with boiled shellfish. Speaking of which...

I took these bottles along when my friend Melissa invited me over to her horse farm for a shrimp boil on Memorial Day.

Moments after this photo was taken, the aluminum trays were dumped onto the newspaper covering the picnic tables, and we all dove in to eat shrimp and li'l smokies and corn and potatoes as God intended: with greasy fingers and stray kernels in the beard. The Portuguese have their own traditions of pig roasts and mussel festivals, but their wines adapt quite well to our traditions here in the Delta. I hope that as the summer continues, all of you are able to incorporate affordable European wines like these into your American cookouts. It's a great way to connect culinary traditions across centuries and oceans.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Pinot Noir from La Pitchoune

La Pitchoune Winery is a small operation named after a property in the south of France, literally translated from Provençal as "the little one". It was also the name that Julia Child and her husband gave to their home in the region.

Both of these wines are made from Sonoma Pinot Noir, yet show very different expressions. I grilled a veal chop, prepared a few cold salads, and sat down for a delightful summer lunch.

2012 La Pitchoune Vin Gris of Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast, California
100% Pinot Noir
$30, 14.1% abv.
39 Cases Produced

I'm sorry that there is so little of this wine on the market, because it is amazing. Exactly the style of dry rosé that I adore when it's hot outside. Pale salmon color, gentle flavors of watermelon and strawberry, and balanced acidity. Very delicate mouthfeel and a quick finish. Don't keep this one too cold but when properly chilled it is magic. Highly recommended.

2012 La Pitchoune Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast, California
100% Pinot Noir
$60, 14.2% abv.
279 Cases Produced

Tart wild strawberry notes with hints of flowers and a little earth. On the palate it shows firm acidity and full, supple Pinot Noir flavors of berries and French oak. Quite good with the veal chop and a wine that should continue to improve over the next couple of years.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2013 Elena Walch 20/26 Rosé

After a recent review of the Elena Walch Gewürztraminer made in Italy, I was contacted by a publicist and offered the chance to try anything from the product lineup. Whenever I'm presented with this opportunity, I don't head for the most expensive or prestigious option, but rather the one that I find the most interesting.

People often ask me what I like in a wine, and I generally say that I'd love to try something I've never had before. I'm always far more excited to try a grape or region that is new to me versus going back to the same bottle over and over again. There is nothing wrong with finding your sweet spot and sticking to it, but I've got a curious palate that is constantly wanting to experience new things.

I'm a long time fan of dry-rosé, and I couldn't pass up the chance to try something made from Lagrein, Pinot Nero, and Merlot. Except for the Pinot, you don't see these grapes often in the pink format, and it's also unusual to see these grapes combined anywhere in the world.

2013 Elena Walch 20/26 Rosé
IGT Vigneti delle Dolomiti
33% Lagrein, 33% Pinot Nero, 33% Merlot
$18, 13% abv.

Bright red berry flavors but with a round mouthfeel. Gentle raspberry aromas with a light and refreshing finish. Perfect spring rosé. Serve this one cold and preferably with a nice picnic lunch of cold fried chicken, fresh slices of watermelon, and cubes of feta cheese. If it weren't raining outside right now I'd be tempted to put a blanket out in the backyard and have this meal myself.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Stinson Vineyards of Virginia

Years ago, I was surprised to taste a wine with an Italian name that was from the Galilee region. At the time I thought it was somewhere in California, settled by particularly religious settlers from Sicily. Nope, it was an Israeli wine from the original Galilee.

Someone could have a similar reaction to pulling out a bottle that says Monticello. Italian? No. From somewhere in the New World settled heavily by Italians, like California or Argentina? No. This one bears its name from the home of Thomas Jefferson in Charlottesville, Virginia. I've visited a lot of presidential homes and libraries, particularly during the year I worked in Ohio. I even passed up an off-hours dinner with co-workers to zip west to check out the Rutherford B. Hayes Presidential Center in Fremont.

Stinson Vineyards is located near Jefferson's estate and continues on the tradition of growing Vitis vinifera grapes in the Old Dominion since the 18th century.

If you're interested in Virginia wines, bloggers from that state tend to be highly engaged in their local wines, and a list of them can be found at my Winebloggers In The South sister site.

2012 Stinson Rosé
Shenandoah Valley, Virginia
100% Mourvèdre
$17, 13% abv.

The wine pours with bright acidity, mostly expressed in overripe strawberry elements and a slightly ashy finish. I actually tried this last year but got an off bottle. This one was enjoyable and presented in the French profile, and made for a delicious pairing with a croque madame.

2012 Stinson Cabernet Franc
Shenandoah Valley, Virginia
80% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot
$23, 12.8% abv.

Light plum aromas with a touch of spice, followed by firm dark fruit flavors from the tiny grapes. The tannins are fairly mild and there's a long dark fruit finish. Cab Franc and Petit Verdot are two of my favorites, and while this doesn't taste Bordelais, it doesn't taste Californian either. Excellent example if you want to explore the influence of Virginia terroir on French grapes.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2013 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Rosé

M. Chapoutier is a négociant based in the Rhône region of France. That means that the grapes are purchased from nearby vineyards and made into the various bottles that bear the Chapoutier name. This is not a practice that is isolated in France, but I don't think that any other countries have a specific name for it.

I love rosé year-round, and was absolutely delighted to get to try this tasty pink wine in the spring...

2013 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Rosé
Côtes du Rhône, France
Grenache & Syrah
$8, 13% abv.

Light aromas of tart raspberry with flavors that follow, including a burst of lemony acidity. Round mouthfeel with a beautiful salmon color and a long, tart finish. Incredible bargain and highly recommended. I had some very specific ideas about what sort of meal I would pair with this wine.

Spring has not entirely arrived here in my dear River City, something that brings me much joy. We had a few warm days last week but thankfully it's dipping down near freezing at night. However, I acknowledge the longer days and greening of the foliage with a proper Provençal lunch: stuffed clams, asparagus tips, and grilled lamb chops. Such a delicious pairing with this rosé and one that I hope you will enjoy at your own table.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Adobe Trio

Clayhouse Wines in Paso Robles has an extensive line of wines, and I've tried a lot of them over the past four years. On the introductory level you'll find the trio of wines under the Adobe marque. While commonly associated with graphic design software, the word adobe refers to the mud wall construction popular for the past 4,000 years in various parts of the world. In a desert climate, it has the magical benefit of being cool during the day and warm at night, yet that doesn't really work in a humid region like Memphis. A true adobe building here would never stay dry (if you could even get the bricks dry in the first place) and would pretty much steam cook you during the night.

Here's a look at all three of the Clayhouse Adobe wines:

2012 Clayhouse Adobe White
Paso Robles, California
36% Viognier, 34% Grenache Blanc, 24% Sauvignon Blanc, 6% Princess
$14, 13.5% abv.

Light herbal notes with a hint of musk and just a touch of sweetness on the finish. Firm acidity and a fun pairing for chicken salad on a croissant. The Princess component of this is a familiar green seedless grape you can purchase from the supermarket.

2012 Clayhouse Adobe Pink
Paso Robles, California
39% Grenache, 34% Syrah, 27% Mourvèdre
$14, 13.5% abv.

This rosé is bright with a profile of watermelon and raspberry. Round body and a smooth finish. Great GSM blend and one that will pair well with a wide range of foods. Keep this in mind as BBQ season approaches.

2011 Clayhouse Adobe Red
Paso Robles, California
23% Zinfandel, 22% Petite Sirah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot, 4% Tempranillo, 3% Syrah
$14, 13.7% abv.

Big ripe plum and cherry flavors, round mouthfeel, low tannins. With so many grapes, it's difficult to discern any individual varietal characters, but it's a fun table wine to go along with a Tuesday night burger.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Two Wines from Cognac One

Cognac One imports an impressive array of wines from around the world, some of which are branded under specific marques like the beautifully curated Xavier Flouret line that I've had the chance to try over the years.

Both of these are exceptional bargains and are highly recommended if they are distributed in your area. Both exhibit perfect balance in a restrained yet complex Old World style. The Portuguese red will let you experience what those grapes can do if they're turned into wine instead of Port, and the perennial favorite French rosé will make you weep over every cheap White Zinfandel that ever passed your lips.

In addition the two wines are food friendly with a wide range of dishes. I could have done a better pairing with the Douro (perhaps braised pork shanks with a shallot, dried fig, and red wine reduction), but I believe I hit it out of the park with the rosé.

2010 Quinta Do Pessegueiro Aluzé
Douro, Portugal
20% vinhas velhas, 35% Touriga Nacional, 30% Touriga Francesa, 15% Tinta Roriz
$18, 12.5% abv.

Deep black fruit aroma with lots of plum, a touch of cinnamon, and rich cassis. Very low tannins and low alcohol contribute to a very mild red wine. It was perfect with a pizza topped with lots of cured pork, where the fruit and structure were boosted by the salt. Note that 20% of the grapes are listed as vinhas velhas, meaning "old vines". In Portugal, this is the name given to a vineyard that is old and not completely identified by ampelographers. I'm a big fan of old vines and field blends, but am still curious as to which varieties are included in that mix.

2013 Xavier Flouret Nationale 7
Domaine de Rimauresq - Cru Classé
Côtes de Provence
34% Grenache, 33% Cinsault, 10% Mourvedre, 7% Carignane, 5% Syrah, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Tibouren, 3% Rolle
$17, 13% abv.

This is the third vintage of the Nationale 7 that I've had the pleasure to try. Light and delicate with the most beautiful expression of wild strawberries imaginable. Firm but not tart acidity, sort of the difference between a lemon and an orange but tasting like neither. Gentle finish and amazing balance. The Rolle in the blend is the local name for what is known as Vermentino in Italy, and the general Mediterranean expression of this wine led me to pair it with clams once again...

I had some great saffron linguine and decided to buy two pounds of littleneck clams to go along with it. I boiled the pasta and drained it, setting it aside. I heated up some olive oil and gently cooked four cloves of garlic and a healthy dash of red pepper flakes, then added in a splash of the Nationale 7 and some white vermouth. Time to steam the clams, let them open, add a pat of butter, and then toss with the cooked pasta.

It's important not to overcook any of the clams, but to let the various liquids cook down to the perfect consistency before plating and topping with toasted breadcrumbs and fresh parsley. My ratio of linguine to vongole is pretty heavy on the vongole, but it was delicious and matched perfectly well with the wine. And one great thing is that you don't really have to add salt thanks to the natural saltiness of the clams. Even though it was cold and rainy on this Sunday morning in Memphis, for a moment I could imagine that I was on the sun-kissed coast of the French Riviera.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 Pullus Pinot Grigio

I picked up another interesting bottle at The Wine Feed in downtown Raleigh, North Carolina. Not a lot of Slovenian wines show up here in Memphis, and it was a dry rosé, so obviously I was intrigued.

Pinot Grigio is typically made as a white wine, but the grapes themselves can range from green to pink to dark blue, meaning that if the skins are pressed a darker wine can be produced. This particular specimen was a deep salmon color, darker than most rosés and even visible through the green glass of the bottle.

Pullus wines are made in Lower Styria, Slovenia by Ptujska Klet, which has been in operation since 1239. Not a little after noon today, we're talking about almost 800 years ago. Although not as well known outside of the region, there are more than 28,000 wineries in Slovenia, with almost all production consumed domestically. I'm always excited to try something like this that managed to find its way across the world.

2012 Pullus Pinot Grigio
Štajerska, Slovenia
100% Pinot Grigio
$15, 13.5% abv.

Remarkably light body for such a dark rosé, with gentle raspberry notes on the nose and a round mouthfeel. Balanced acidity and just a touch of acidity on the finish. It would be quite good with a smoked turkey sandwich full of bleu cheese and alfalfa sprouts. I know that's rather specific, but I happen to be craving that combination right now.

NV Familie Bauer Rosé

I'm typing from my hotel room in downtown Raleigh, North Carolina where I'm enjoying an extended visit thanks to the Polar Vortex. I'm here along with several other wine writers participating in a tour and series of meetings about Nomacorc, the world's leading producer of synthetic corks. I've learned a lot about them in the past couple of days and can't wait to go into a lot more detail on the production process and the benefit of these corks. They are not mere replacements for natural corks, but rather specifically engineered plugs to eliminate TCA contamination and provide for specific oxygen access to the wine depending on how that wine needs to be aged and when it will be consumed.

I'm here with Todd Godbout, Cath Monahan, Michelle Locke, Luke Whittall, and Mads Jordansen. They're a talented group with a wide range of experience within the wine world, and those links will take you to their various blogs, podcasts, Twitter feeds, and other media outlets. Be sure to check them out, and big thanks to Katie and Whitney for hosting us, keeping us fed, and taking care of our travel arrangements.

Next door to the hotel is a convenient little wine shop/bar called The Wine Feed. The selection is small but eclectic, with a wonderfully curated list that I imagine changes every few weeks. When I go to purchase a bottle of wine on the road, I usually look for a grape I haven't tried, an obscure region, or something that I haven't tried yet and can't find in Memphis. (That list gets smaller every week.) This little beauty caught my eye...

NV Familie Bauer Rosé
Niederösterreich, Austria
Zweigelt
$15/1L bottle, 12.5% abv.

The company website did not have a fact sheet on this wine, and some sources claim that it is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon or Blaufränkisch. Light cherry nose with floral jasmine notes. Mild red fruit body with tart raspberry acidity on the finish. Gentle, and the one litre format makes this one an excellent choice for sharing with two or three people. Great choice for a light salad course or a cold salmon and dill recipe.

2012 Spelletich 3 Spells Rosé

I was first introduced to Spelletich Family Winery in October of last year when I reviewed four of their bottles. Since then, they've moved to their own winemaking and crush facility in South Napa and have opened up a tasting room that offers pairings with chocolates made by Feast It Forward and Kollar.

The "3 Spells" line features their mid-range wines priced between $22-30, with the Spelletich Cellars brand occupying the $30-65 range and Spellwine covering the $15-20 market. These are very reasonable prices for small-production Napa wines, and your best bet is to order directly from the website. This rosé, for instance, was produced in a run of 90 cases, meaning that there are 1,080 bottles out there (1,079 after I consumed this one). It will sell out at some point, but sampling these kinds of wines is always a unique experience and one that is fun to share with friends. Not to show off, but rather to share the pleasure of something that was made in the right quantity given the resources available. It's like a jar of honey from the farmer's market: that guy who lets his bees harvest from blueberry bushes all season is never going to be able to scale up to nationwide distribution, but you can still cherish the opportunity to drizzle it over your toast in the morning until the jar is empty.

2012 Spelletich 3 Spells Rosé
Napa Valley
Proprietary blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
$25, 14% abv.
90 cases made

Bright nose of ripe strawberries and lemon, with firm acidity and a slight sweetness. Gentle finish. I enjoyed it with a great grilled chicken salad including berries and soft goat cheese--a lovely combination on a rather warm Memphis weekend here in what passes for winter these days.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

November Wines of Vinho Verde

Over the years, I've recommended Vinho Verde for Thanksgiving, and in those cases I was talking about the green, slightly sweet, low alcohol wines most often associated with that region of Portugal. Yet over the years I've had the opportunity to try a lot of different wines from Vinho Verde, and while both of these have a little fizz on them, they are otherwise serious, delicious, and food-friendly bottles that would still certainly be welcome on the Thanksgiving table.

NV Quinta da Lixa Aromas das Castas
Vinho Verde
Alvahrino, Trajadura
$13, 12.5% abv

Bone dry, light aromas of apple blossoms and touch of lemony acidity on the palate. Gentle fizz and a delicate, mineral-driven finish. If ever a wine screamed out for roast turkey with gravy, it would be this one.

2012 Quinta das Arcas Conde Villar Rosé
Vinho Verde
100% Esapadeiro
$10, 11.5% abv.

Again, a slight fizz that mostly disappears as the wine rests in the glass. There is an alluring tart apricot skin aroma but with a gentle light fruit body. Once again, this is a dry rosé, and one with a light raspberry finish that keeps you coming back for more. In the eternal struggle of ham vs. turkey for Thanksgiving, this is the one that is going to appeal more to the ham lovers. I count myself in that group, and have been known to smuggle in jars of Dijon mustard to family gatherings. Nothing quite like a roast ham with brown sugar glaze and a healthy dollop of mustard.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 Banfi Centine Rosé

I wrote about the red blend Banfi Centine in 2006 and 2007, and since then I've frequently suggested the wine as an inexpensive but tasty Italian red that would work well with a wide range of Italian-American fare. While I'm always fond of the rich diversity of Italian food with so many unique ingredients and separate traditions, it's worth celebrating the fact that Italian cuisine branched off and formed a lot of new and delicious traditions here in the United States through the immigrant experience. Below, I'll provide the details for my chili mac that is pretty darned tasty as the weather is starting to get cold. A few days ago, I had to scrape a tiny layer of ice off my windshield for the first time this season, but today we were eating outside and eventually had to abandon the table because it was getting too warm, and the bees were out pollinating the trees that are still producing flowers in November. The joys of life in a hot climate.

Since it's still nice and warm, it's still time to enjoy a good rosé... hell, it's always time to drink pink. This is the rosato entry in the Centine line, and I was excited to open it up.

2012 Banfi Centine Rosé
Toscana IGT
Proprietary Blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
$11, 12.5% abv.

It's very bright rosé with a noticeable strawberry scent with a hint of lemon. It has a tart body with a crisp finish. The pale salmon color looks beautiful in the glass, and the wine has a remarkably long aftertaste of really ripe strawberries. I think it pair well with grilled chicken and asparagus drizzled in reduced balsamic vinegar, but I had other plans.

On to the chili mac... Purists say that chili con carne is only meat based, and the only starches allowable are small amounts of masa to thicken it up. In the real world, people around the world stretch flavorful meat sauces with various carbohydrates. It's not a sign of cheapness, and if done properly, it can taste great. I've had chili with rice (not my favorite preparation), over corn chips (good in a Frito Pie), over spaghetti in Cincinnati, and occasionally with a slice of bread. I tend to add red kidney beans whenever possible, and I recently made a big batch of chili with ground beef and kidney beans for freezing in convenient portions. It was great on its own, but a few weeks later I was able to defrost it and prepare a batch of chili mac.

I used organic rotini and didn't quite cook it al dente. I stopped early so that it was still slightly chewy and drained it thoroughly. The idea was to allow it to soak up the juices from the chili rather than letting excess water dilute the existing flavors. In order to not make too much pasta, I poured the dish half-full of dry pasta, dumped that in the water, and then cooked it in a pot. I combined the cooked pasta, some cottage cheese, about a litre of chile, and covered the baking dish with foil. I cooked it slow for about an hour, then added a layer of shredded cheese to brown on top.

With meat, pasta, and beans, it's incredibly filling, and even a small bowl is enough for an entire dinner. I was quite happy with it, and am still enjoying the leftovers days later. Obviously I'm adding a lot of hot sauce to my bowls, but I prepared the chili (and the casserole) mild to allow others to adjust their bowls as desired. Now, if only it would get a little colder.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Cape Classics Wines of South Africa

This particular batch of samples came as a result of my participation in the Snooth PVA Wines of South Africa tasting in New York City. It turns out that the PR specialist who contacted me for these wines was in the room that day, but because things were a bit rushed, we didn't get a chance to meet. I will make a note for all future encounters with winemakers, public relations personnel, and salespeople: even if I look serious and determined (perhaps even unintentionally grouchy) while tasting, I am always happy to meet people in the business and exchange cards. In that particular instance, I missed out on great opportunities to talk about my collection of African stamps and my love of the adventure novels of South African author Wilbur Smith.

2011 Raats Original Chenin Blanc Unwooded
Coastal Region
100% Chenin Blanc
$15, 13.5% abv.

Known as Steen in South Africa, Chenin Blanc is the most widely planted grape in the country. This unoaked version is light, crisp, and mineral with a touch of bitter lemon peel. I found myself craving fried calamari, which I think would be a pretty decent pairing.

2012 Indaba Chardonnay
Western Cape
100% Chardonnay
$12, 13.5% abv.

Light peach aromas and flavors, low acidity, round body, and a long floral finish. Fairly delicate from this historic winery, and highly recommended for a simple roast chicken and potatoes dinner.

2012 Bayten Sauvignon Blanc
Constantia
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$15, 14% abv.

Bayten is the new brand name for the more traditional, yet less pronounceable Buitenverwachting. Full of grapefruit but with more complex tropical fruit notes as it warms up. Time to break out one of those salads that has golden beets and goat cheese.

2013 DeMorgenzon Cabernet Rosé
Western Cape
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$12, 13.2% abv.

This winery plays Baroque music throughout the vineyards 24/7 with the belief that the tunes help the vines. I can't speak to that scientifically, but it sounds like it would be pleasant to take a stroll through the property. This rosé has delicious light fruit flavors of watermelon and crabapple. On the palate it is dry and mild with a clean and quick finish. I think that it's a perfect appetizer wine that would pair well with a wide range of flavors.

2011 Kanonkop Kadette
Stellenbosch
57% Pinotage, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc
$15, 14% abv.

Solid, strong red with the Bordeaux grapes providing a nice balance to the Pinotage. Elements of plum and spice with hints of leather and coffee. Excellent with a little breathing, and great with a good rare steak.

2009 Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon
Stellenbosch
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$41, 14.5% abv.

Major complexity from a single grape. The wine opens up early with a nose of tobacco, coffee, and licorice. Chocolate and blackberry flavors follow with medium tannins and a long, dark finish. If ever a wine was made for winter, it was this one, and while it was cold in the Southern Hemisphere when I tried it, I think this one would be perfect up here in November or December with something rich and decadent like roast lamb shanks and a rich dried fig sauce.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Vinho Verde in August

I continue my exploration of the many varied wines of Portugal's Vinho Verde region with this pair that showed up at the house last week. Given that I'm now living so close to sources of fresh seafood, pork offal, and cured meats that require a five-language guidebook, I'm beginning to think that it's time for me to start studying authentic Portuguese cuisine.

At some point, there's going to be a dinner party invite that begins, "The first course will be eels... If that's a problem, I'm not offended if you decline, because it's only going to get more non-mainstream American after that."

As with Spain, the wines of Portugual continue to amaze me with their ability to pair with a wide range of foods, and even bargain wines like these will just get better and better depending on how much care and flavor you put into your dishes. At the very least, rich cheeses and grilled vegetables topped with sea salt will draw out wonderful tastes when paired with wines such as the two below.

2012 Quinta da Raza Grande Escolha
Minho Vinho Regional
Blend of Alvarinho & Trajadura
$13, 12.5% abv.

This is a fairly traditional Vinho Verde, a little fizzy but oddly (and refreshingly) not sweet. Tropical fruits and a little floral undertone round out the nose, while the body is crisp, dry, and one that goes well with fresh fruit and yogurt. Not suggesting this as a breakfast wine, but as a light afternoon summer snack it works well.

2012 Quinta de Gomariz Espadeiro Rosado
Ave, Vinho Verde
100% Espadeiro
$12, 11.5% abv.

Beautiful light salmon color, mild flavor of wild strawberries, bright acidity and a clean, smooth finish. And it's got some gentle bubbles to it, which I wasn't expecting. I enjoyed it with yet another homemade anchovy pizza as part of my summer project to A) get better at making pizzas and B) sweat in the kitchen. The salt of the fish and the savory elements of my dried mushroom tomato sauce came together perfectly with this wine for great balance all around.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Online Ribera del Duero Tasting

I recently got a chance to join an online tasting featuring the wines of Spain's Ribera del Duero region with my pals from Snooth. I have more detail on the region and additional tasting notes from my NYC Ribera tasting.

If you're interested in these wines you can watch the video with Snooth's Gregory Dal Piaz and Ribera del Duero Sommelier Roger Kugler. We happy wine bloggers were joining in the chat session and on Twitter and elsewhere.

2012 Bodegas Peñalba López Montecastrillo Rosado
100% Tempranillo
$14, 14% abv.

I was most excited to open this bottle, given the fact that I firmly believe every summah season should feature as many rosés as possible. This one featured bright acidity with elements of lemon and watermelon. Highly recommended to keep cold in the fridge so that after a long day at work and a rough commute, you can pour yourself a glass of pure summer pleasure.

2011 Bodegas Cuevas Jiménez Ferratus A0
100% Tempranillo
$22, 14% abv.

This was a personal favorite of mine. French oak, big body, huge tannins, bright acidity, delicious. Meaty aromas, deep with spice and dark fruit and all sorts of delicious old world elements. I loved the label and said that it reminded me of Blade Runner. Later, I would make this:



2008 Bodegas Matarromera Crianza
100% Tempranillo
$30, 14.5% abv.

For the first time in my lengthy wine tasting career, I found a bottle that was entirely about the forest. This particular wine was deep and green with dried figs, stewed fruits, under notes of pine sap. I found myself wanting to grab the backpack and go hiking for a few days.

2009 Bodegas Emilio Moro Malleolus Reserva
100% Tempranillo
$49, 14.5% abv.

For a wine region that has a lot of challenges and does not pump out the massive volume of easier vineyards, there is an amazing level of diversity in the aromas and flavors represented. This well-aged example was rich with mint, plum, and huckleberries. However, the firm tannins indicate that this wine could continue to improve over the next several years.

My exposure to the wines of Ribera del Duero over the past year has convinced me that when and if I get the chance to visit Spain, this region will be at the top of my list of places I must see.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

CrossBarn Wines

CrossBarn Winery was founded about a decade ago in Sonoma by winemaker Paul Hobbs, who has had a long career in the wine industry as a winemaker and consultant. Grapes are sourced from around Sonoma to create a Pinot Noir, a Cabernet Sauvignon, and the two wines featured below.

Both of the wines I received are enclosed with convenient screwcaps. With the summer picnic, BBQ, and party season, I find myself reaching for screwcap bottles when I'm headed out of the house. True, I keep an emergency corkscrew in the glove compartment, but it's so much easier just to pass the bottle to the host or hostess and not have to worry about an opener.

2012 CrossBarn Chardonnay
Sonoma Coast
$25, 14.1% abv.

80% fermentation in stainless steel, 20% fermentation in neutral French oak. This yields a wine that is pretty bright and tart. Vibrant ripe peach aromas dominate with lots of white fruit on the palate. Bold acidity and a crisp finish. I found it to be a fun match with spicy blackened catfish.

2012 CrossBarn Rosé of Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast
$18, 12.5% abv.

This wine followed the same 80/20 fermentation pattern as the above. I love a dry rosé, and Pinot Noir often produces some of the best. This one retains an elegant and demure French style, with mild flavors and an overall profile of wild strawberries. Strongly recommended with chicken salad sandwiches and mild cheeses during a picnic.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

2012 Las Rocas Rosado

I've said it a hundred times, but nothing says summer quite like a good dry rosé. Spain produces a lot of great rosados that are widely available around the country, and you shouldn't have too much trouble finding one. The next time you're at the wine shop, grab a couple of different rosés from around the world, bring them home, and keep them in the fridge. You'll find that they'll pair with just about anything, and can be a lot of fun to take to a BBQ or even to a dinner party as a pleasant aperitif.

This Grenache-based pink wine comes from Bodegas San Alejandro in the Aragón corner of northeastern Spain. The winery is a relative newcomer in Spain, founded in 1962. The DO of Calatayud is named after the nearby city that surrounds an old Moorish castle from the early 8th century. In fact, the name Calatayud came from the Arabic Qalat 'Ayyūb (قلعة أيوب) "the fort of Job". The history of Arabic influence on the Spanish language is fascinating, and the injection of a Semitic language into a Romance language a thousand years ago leads to a can of albóndigas on the shelf of my local grocery store.)

2012 Las Rocas Rosado
Calatayud, Spain
100% Garnacha
$10, 13.5% abv.

The wine opens up quickly with bright strawberry and watermelon aromas and flavors. It has low acidity, a round mouthfeel, and a short finish. A pleasant summer sipper, and I found that it paired quite well with some spicy pork tamales in a rich red enchilada sauce.


Note: This wine was provided as a sample.