Whiplash Wines

Last week I wrote about Reata wines, and today I'm focusing on a division of their company called Whiplash Wines. These are their bargain wines, though still quite tasty and worth checking out.

The labels continue with the western/cowboy theme of the Reata style and, given my Calvinist Presbyterian background, the Redemption name was particularly amusing.

2010 Whiplash Chardonnay
California
$11, 14.5% abv.

Firm oak presence with bright acidity. Peach and vanilla aromas with a bracing oak flavor and a long finish. I found it to be delicious with smoked chicken and black bean tacos topped with a vibrant salsa verde.

2009 Whiplash Redemption
California
65% Syrah, 25% Barbera, 10% Zinfandel
$11, 13.2% abv.

Big fruit and firm tannins, blackberries and black cherry. Tart, tannic finish. If a wine ever called out for a bacon cheeseburger, it would be this one. Great casual Wednesday wine after getting home from work.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Reata Wines

Reata Wines is based in Napa and takes its name from the Spanish word for lariat. The winery sources grapes from selected vineyards throughout Napa and Sonoma with a focus on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

I had some salmon on hand, as well as a bunch of fresh produce from the downtown Memphis Farmer's Market. Purple hull peas, ripe tomatoes, corn on the cob... I love salmon with Pinot Noir but the hot weather was making me lean towards Chardonnay. I chose to open both, and each performed admirably, mostly based on their mild, restrained profiles. A stronger, brasher Pinot Noir would have been overpowering and a more "buttered popcorn" style Chardonnay could have blown out the subtle flavors of the peas and corn.

2010 Reata Chardonnay
Carneros, California
$20, 14.3% abv.
11,500 Cases

Even though two thirds of the wine was aged in French oak, the effect is mild and balanced. Just a touch of caramel underneath the soft tropical fruits. Low but even acidity with a long, relaxing finish. I loved how it worked with the assortment of fresh vegetables, in particular the lemony sorrel, which I mixed with Greek yogurt to top the salmon.

2010 Reata Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast, California
$30, 14.2% abv.
6,200 Cases Made

Like the Chardonnay, this was also aged in French oak for a more Burgundy-style wine. Very mild plum and dried cherry aromas with low tannins and a soft finish. As I'd hoped, the poached salmon worked really well with this wine, and I would highly recommend it for similar seafood and properly roasted poultry.

Did I mention the cornbread? While the purple hull peas were simmering with bacon and chicken stock, I got a powerful craving for cornbread and made a fresh batch, served as I prefer it with soft butter and local clover honey.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Broken Shed Vodka

Every year there are more and more premium vodkas coming on the scene, and much like bottled water the producers seek to attract customers through packaging and an exotic origin. Ultimately vodka is just 40% alcohol and 60% water. The alcohol can be distilled from anything and the water can either come from glacial ice or the tap. (I'm waiting for the first commercial Antarctic vodka. I say commercial, because my high school physics teacher flew there a lot as a US Navy pilot in the 70s and used to make a drink with PGA swiped from the scientists, snow, and orange juice crystals called "Absolute Zero".)

Broken Shed surprised me, and not because it uses spring water from both islands of New Zealand. No, what really struck me was that it's distilled from whey, the liquid byproduct of cheesemaking. Whey is rich in protein and lactose, a sugar. The Mongolians have been making airag from mares' milk forever, and variations on fermented milk exist throughout Asia and the middle east. Given the Kiwi origin of this spirit, I'm going to guess sheep's milk was the source of the whey.

Broken Shed Premium Vodka
Wanaka, New Zealand
$50, 40% abv.

Like Grey Goose, this bottle features a frosted bottle but with icy mountains instead of big waves. It's a tall, slender bottle with a cork stopper--an elegant touch in comparison to the usual thin metal screwcaps. While I like screwcaps on wine, with spirits I like stoppers, whether natural or synthetic. A bottle of wine will be consumed within a few days of opening, whereas a spirit may hang around for years. I've had leakage issues with screwcaps, and besides the mess that also means that other things are getting into the bottle.

The vodka is crisp and bracing on its own, though when chilled and mixed in a cocktail it takes on a--dare I say it?--creamy smooth quality. Maybe it's just the power of suggestion, but it does blend quite well into martinis, Salty Dogs, and even kicks up a bit of homemade lemonade quite well.

A bit of doggerel, because I couldn't resist:

Little Miss Muffet
Sat on a tuffet
Staring at leftover whey.
"If this can be distilled
My bottles can be filled
In a most delectable way."


Note: This bottle was received as a sample.

Dream of the Rarebit Fiend

From 1904-1913, Windsor McCay drew Dream of the Rarebit Fiend. Every comic strip had the same setup: somebody has a bad dream and wakes up in the last panel to blame it on Welsh rarebit (toast topped with a savory cheese and beer sauce). What made it special was the artwork, which became more and more surreal as the dream progressed and incorporated lots of tiny details. During the same time he was drawing the better known and more popular Little Nemo in Slumberland, which also explored dreams.

Originally, the strip was supposed to be about nightmares induced by tobacco cravings, but the newspaper made him change it to Welsh rarebit, leading generations to wonder why it's so bad to eat cheese toast right before bed. While perusing some of these lovely drawings, I found myself with all the ingredients necessary to make the legendary dish, but I didn't want to make mere toast. Why not try something different?

I thought that using a rarebit sauce for macaroni and cheese would be neat, but it turns out that many others (including Rachel Ray) had the idea first. However, I could still put another twist on it.

This past week the grocery store had a freezer case full of cooked lobsters on sale. These are usually older and slower lobsters that are steamed and frozen rather than throwing them out. Not quite as good as fresh, live lobsters, but perfect for use in recipes like lobster rolls or pasta applications. I love lobster macaroni and cheese, and thought that it would be particularly good with a rarebit sauce. For the sauce I used half Australian white cheddar and half Italian fontina, fortified with the usual seasonings and a good dose of a Sam Adams IPA. I boiled up a batch of farfalle, tossed it all together with the shredded lobster meat, and sprinkled breadcrumbs on top. A little time in the oven, and we're ready.

It was rich and savory, buttery and delicious. I had intended for this to be a first course for dinner, but it proved to be so filling that I never got around to the second course. In the future I'd probably use crawfish tails and maybe not bake it, but rather toss the pasta, seafood, and sauce at the last minute before serving. And I'd also use a less bitter beer--the IPA was delicious, but probably not the perfect choice for this sauce.

Dreams that night: perfectly normal.

Retiring a Notebook

I bought this little Moleskine notebook on January 13, 2008, en route to a legendary Barolo tasting. Four and a half years later, it's full.

Now, I haven't taken all of my wine notes in it since then, though it did go with me to Sonoma (as seen in the photo). Most of the time I take notes on the back of envelopes, post-its, or whatever else is lying around. I often use the blank backs of the numerous pieces of paper that arrive with each set of wine samples. But this humble black notebook has accompanied me to many tastings and dinner parties. I'm not going to toss it out--there are phone numbers and stains and little notes scribbled in by various mischievous young ladies who enjoyed swiping my notebook sometime around the third course of wine. There are plenty of pages torn out, never from regretted reviews, but when I had to scribble a recipe or write down the address of my blog. In fact, just a few months after getting the notebook I got tired of ripping out back pages and got business cards to hand out instead.

I've got a few other wine journals of varying elegance and size, but I think this weekend it's time for another Moleskine. After all this time it still feels just right.

2010 Yard Dog White

Monday I reviewed a pink purse wine and today I've got a white wine with a Chihuahua on the label. It's turning into Legally Blonde around here. Time to go back to strange organs and weird critters, I think.

But until my next adventure in the odd meats case of the international market, it's time to take another look at a fun little white wine from Australia. Redheads Studio used to have its own website but it now redirects to Laithwaite's, the British wine company that founded Redheads Studio in order to showcase the creativity of young Australian winemakers. I've had the Yard Dog Red in the past but have not seen any of their other products in the local market. And yes, for a change, I did purchase this wine as I happened to be completely out of white wine and needed half a bottle to go into my spaghetti sauce. The remainder was chilled and served as an apéritif for Saturday lunch. Julia loved it and adored the cute label.

2010 Redheads Studio Yard Dog White
McLaren Vale, South Australia
Chardonnay 41%, Sauvignon Blanc 32%, Verdelho 16%, Viognier 11%
$11, 13% abv.

Light and refreshing with loads of tropical fruit, hints of pineapple and apricot. Mild, balanced acidity and a short, crisp finish. Great chilled and while this unoaked wine is fruity, it's not overpowering and provided a garden fresh character to the tomato sauce.

Australian wine calls for Italian-American food, of course. I was craving Ween's Sunday Gravy and realized it had been a while since I'd worked up a big pot of tomato sauce and meatballs.

I made a few tweaks this time, thoguh I did include the browned pork chops (which add so much flavor and texture to the sauce over hours of simmering). A hot Memphis Saturday is perhaps not the best day to spend making sauce for four hours followed by boiling pasta, but at the end it was worth it and chilled glasses of Yard Dog and purse wine helped cool things off.

This sauce was primarily built around Cento canned tomatoes. I usually use their imported San Marzanos, but due to a supply issue at the grocery store I settled for domestic Romas. In the end I was pretty happy with the result and found them to be great for sauce making. I lucked out and found a wedge of Grana Padano cheese on sale, which along with some freshly chopped parsley made the perfect topping for this big plate of comfort food. I made well over a gallon of sauce, so I got to freeze half litre portions for future enjoyment. Hmmm... might need to go thaw out a meatball or two...

NV Volére Rosé

When I first saw the press release about wine packaged in purses, I laughed. Julia thought it was cute, so I thought I'd go ahead and try a sample. After all, it's produced by Cantina di Soave, and I've enjoyed their wines in the past. I've also been surprised by the increasing quality of boxed wines, and I get a lot of questions about them from friends and family looking for a casual couple of glasses a week.

There are three purse boxes under the Volére label (which doesn't translate to anything, it's just an Italian-sounding word): a Pinot Grigio in an off-white color, a Pinot Noir/Merlot blend in a red bag, and this rosé in pink. The spigot comes out of the narrow side of the bag. While the packaging got a lot of giggles and interest from female friends on Facebook, I will say that it's a little impractical. It only holds 1.5 litres, the equivalent of two regular wine bottles. Most cask wines hold at least three, and are sturdier and more stackable. But a burlap sack holds a lot more than a designer purse, yet you don't see a lot of women walking around with an old potato sack slung over one shoulder. There's a reason why this isn't a fashion blog.

NV Volére Rosé
$15/1.5 litres, 13.5% abv.

Made from "select grape varieties indigenous to the spectacular Veneto Hills", but beyond that I don't know anything about the grapes. I braced myself for a wave of sweetness, but was relieved to find a quite decent dry rosé. It reminded me a lot of the first dry rosé I ever had, one from southern Italy and made from Negroamaro grapes. The overall profile is dominated by strawberries and raspberries with just enough acidity to keep things interesting without being overly tart. Relatively mild aromas and flavors keep it light and refreshing, and it was fun to sip over the weekend with burgers and spaghetti. Despite my initial impressions, the wine was more serious than I expected and ended up being the perfect wine for a hot summer weekend with casual food.


Note: This wine was received as a sample.

Tiny Wine Olympics with TastingRoom.com

I've got a lineup of six bottles representing five countries and... two languages.

OK, maybe it's not quite as diverse as the 2012 Olympic Games (no Chinese table tennis win, no surprise Canadian upset in the women's modern pentathlon), but it is a neat little tasting kit from the folks at TastingRoom.com. The selection they sent me is called the Wines of the World Super Flight.

I really enjoy these samplers, and each 50 mL sip is just enough to get a general idea about the particular wine (though they do now offer a Wines by the Glass option that involves 100 mL bottles). I've had several of these kits in the past, but one of my favorites was when it was used in an online tasting with fellow winebloggers. But the real application for these is as gifts, and that's where the Super Flight option comes into play. More on that in a bit, so let's see our competitors for tonight's Lilliputian tasting:

2011 Old Coach Road Sauvignon Blanc
Nelson, New Zealand
13.5% abv.

Lime peel and touch of grapefruit, crisp and just tart enough to be interesting. Long finish of grapefruit peel. Recommended with grilled scallops and an Asian slaw.

2010 Spring Seed Wine Co. "Four O'Clock" Chardonnay
McLaren Vale, Australia
$18, 13.0% abv.

Rich lemon meringue pie aroma and flavor, firm acidity and a bright, brassy mouthfeel. Citrus flavors with hints of overripe peach. I absolutely love the old seed catalog artwork on the label, which is another neat thing about these bottles--getting to see the full label in miniature form.

2009 Stickybeak Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast, California
$15, 14.3% abv.

Ripe wild strawberry aromas and flavors, blending toward raspberry on the finish. Light and mild with a short finish. I think this would have been a really good pairing with my recent veal chops with muscadine grapes.

2009 Il Cuore "The Heart" Zinfandel
Mendocino County, California
$16, 15.3% abv.

Black cherry and an earthy, woody nose. Spicy dark fruit flavors with surprisingly mild tannins, a bold fruit profile, and a mild finish. Great California Zinfandel that would be good at the Thanksgiving table, and certainly one that would be pleasant to sip on a cold winter afternoon.

2008 La Montesa Rioja Red Blend
Rioja, Spain
$18, 14% abv.

Red cherry and bacon fat with a touch of ash. Medium tannins and a tart, ripe cherry flavor with a long finish. Slightly nutty aftertaste. I'm a big fan of Rioja, and this doesn't disappoint. When this flavor profile comes around, I think lamb is the only real option.

2008 Urraca Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
$20, 14.8% abv.

Plum and white pepper with a hint of tobacco. Rich dark plum flavors with an earthy undertone and a long finish. I'm thinking slow braised oxtails with caramelized onions and steamed broccolini. I have future plans for this wine, but how can I do that with just a drop left in the 50 mL bottle?

This tasting kit came with the "Super Flight" option, which includes a gift card with a code that lets you pick your two favorites from the flight so that you can receive full size bottles. I went with the Chardonnay and Malbec, which should arrive in a few days. These are pretty good deals for gifts, though at first I thought it meant that I just got two extra tiny bottles. And when you buy this category, you'll need to kick in an extra $13 for shipping, but the end total is still pretty reasonable. Check out the website for an ever-growing list of flights and themes.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

St. Francis Chardonnay and Old Vines Zinfandel

Sonoma's St. Francis Winery has been making wine since 1979, though they grew and sold grapes for a few years before that.

I've reviewed a couple of their wines before, namely "Red" and their Claret. The product line is pretty well distributed throughout the country and shouldn't be too difficult to find. I review a lot of small production, hard to find wines, but it's important not to forget wines that most people can actually go out and purchase on their way home from work. No need to have a friend in Hungary smuggle something through customs or become close with someone that has a massive cellar full of collectibles.

2010 St. Francis Chardonnay
100% Chardonnay
Sonoma County
$15, 14.2% abv.

This is a classic California Chardonnay, with notes of vanilla and butterscotch and a slight tropical fruit profile. Low acidity and a round mouthfeel with a lingering finish. Excellent pairing for roast chicken with garlic and rosemary.

2008 St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel
89% Zinfandel, with the remainder a blend of Alicante Bouschet, Mourvèdre, Carignane, Syrah, and Petite Sirah
Sonoma County
$20, 15.5% abv.

People argue over the exact definition of "old vines", but since these are 55-100 years old I don't think anyone will complain about this label. I liked this wine better on the second day, which makes me think I should have decanted it first. It's a big and jammy wine with lots of blackberry aromas and flavors. Touches of spice and leather and dark plum, but primarily a powerful fruit flavor. Tannins are relatively mild in comparison. On the second day, it was lighter and smoother, and made a great companion to a pepperoni pizza.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

East Coast Italian Reds with Veal

I received a pair of wines from the east coast of Italy, namely the Adriatic states of Le Marche and Abruzzo. A march is sort of a border frontier land that's established against a different country or group of barbarians, and while we don't use the word in English a lot the person who rules over a march is a Marquess or Marquis, much more familiar words. These are two very mountainous regions of Italy and are not well known for wine outside of that country. I've visited both (briefly), but it's important to appreciate all of the many wine regions of Italy. If you're looking to become a member of the Wine Century club you could do so some thirty times over while traveling through the boot.

2008 Saladini Pilastri Pregio del Conte
Le Marche
50% Aglianico, 50% Montepulciano
$12, 13% abv.
Dark plum and black cherry aromas with mild tannins and an easy, enjoyable body. Great table wine for pizza or other casual Italian fare.

2009 Fratelli Barba Vasari Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Abruzzo
100% Montepulciano
$10, 13% abv.
Wow! Fruit berry bomb! Tons of blackberry and blueberry and deep, rich fruit flavors. Aromas are comparable and this wine requires some more robust accompaniment. I would highly suggest this for summer barbecues, in which charred flesh and highly seasoned sauces will be the perfect match for such a bold and fruit-forward wine.

With these wines, I decided to look for inspiration from Le Marche as well as a twist from the local produce available at my nearby farmers market. I started with Fabio Trabocchi's cotoletta di vitello al miele, a simple dish of veal chops cooked with honey, grapes, and various aromatics.

Instead of seedless grapes, I used local muscadines, and for a side dish I continued the theme with a pot of fresh lady peas slow simmered with bacon, onion, chicken broth, white wine, and sage. They emerged delicate and with just enough of a texture to appreciate the bite. The veal was spectacular, and while some may still bristle at the thought of eating veal*, I think it's a unique and wonderful flavor that should be appreciated on the American table. Even better if you can make such a flavorful sauce.

Both of the wines worked out well, though the Le Marche was a better fit and its subtle tones worked better with the flavors of the dish. However, the bold approach of the Abruzzo wine combined with the Muscadines brought back a fond memory of drinking Fragolino with Fredric. For those not familiar, Fragolino is a forbidden wine of the Veneto region made from illicitly planted Muscadine vines. More popular years ago before the law cracked down on native American and hybrid vines in Europe.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

*My quick veal rant: if you eat any cow-based dairy products--butter, cheese, yogurt, milk, ice cream, etc.,--you fund and support the veal industry. Heifers don't start producing milk until giving birth. If the calf is a female, it will be raised for future dairy production. If it's a male, it's pretty useless. It can be castrated and raised as a steer for steak, or if it's a particularly spectacular specimen, may be raised unmodified to collect genetic material. But almost all male calves are going to be slaughtered for veal. If you choose not to eat veal, I respect that, but if you purchase and consume dairy products, you're generating all those veal chops that end up in the butcher counter.

2010 Meulenhof Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese

This wine is the companion bottle from the recent Wines of Germany shipment of the Sekt I got to try. The PR firm is currently busy with a US tour by Annika Strebel, the 63rd German Wine Queen.

Although the date on the logo of Weingut Meulenhof says 1238, the website claims that the winery dates back to 1337, and operated as a convent between 1477 and 1802 when Napoleon auctioned it off to a local merchant. The current owners are the Justen family, who have been making wine since 1950.

This bottle is classified as Prädikatswein, the new name for the old Qualitätswein mit Prädikat designation and the highest level of German wines.

Erdener Prälat means "The Bishop of Erden" and is a small vineyard in the Mosel Valley that is nestled between red slate cliffs. Nearby are other vineyards like Ürziger Würzgarten (Spice Garden) and Erdener Treppchen (Little Steps of Erden).

2010 Meulenhof Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese
Mosel Valley
$33, 7.5% abv.
50 Cases Made

This is a spectacular wine, and it's a shame that so few will get a chance to try it. It is a bit sweet, but the acidity and structure of the wine are so perfectly balanced that it's not cloying or thick. The low alcohol content really allows you to enjoy the complex aromas of dried peach, ripe apricot, tropical fruits, and hints of spice. There's a lot going on with this wine and it merits some quiet attention. On the palate there's a wonderful mineral structure, good acidity, and ripe fruit flavors that continue with a long finish.

While I'm sure there are some mild cheeses that would pair well with this wine, I think it would be better enjoyed on its own as a magnificent example of German Riesling. Highly recommended.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

Laurenz V. Grüner Veltliner

Nearly two years ago to the day, I wrote about the wines of Laurenz V. from Austria. I got a press release recently about their newest Grüner Veltliner, a slightly sweet wine called Forbidden and marketed around the story of the serpent in the garden of Eden. It certainly sounded interesting, but alas, the wine is not yet available in the United States. But the PR firm was happy to send me the recent releases of Singing and Charming, the two wines that I tried in 2010.

The bottles still have a lot of great things going for them: affordable prices, friendly labels, convenient screwcaps, and food-friendly flavors. Grüner Veltliner is coming in a close second to dry rosé as my favorite type of wine for the summer. There's no heavy oak, no heavy acidity, just a pleasant and well-balanced white wine that goes well with so many different foods.

2011 Laurenz und Sophie Singing Grüner Veltliner
Kremstal Region
$16, 12% abv.
Crisp and refreshing with a light ripe apricot aroma and just a touch of lime peel. It's an easy drinking wine that would be an outstanding introduction for a first time Grüner Veltliner drinker, and it will pair well with a lot of light summer dishes like grilled chicken salads and cold pasta.

2010 Laurenz V. Charming Grüner Veltliner
Kamptal Region
$30, 13% abv.
This is a more serious wine with more earth, more minerality, and greater balance. Once again, I found myself craving seafood but also enjoyed sipping this one after dinner. While it's great cold, this one maintains its elegance even as it warms up, something that I always take as a sign of a great white wine.

I made enchiladas verdes with pork shoulder that I smoked over cherry wood. What does Austria have to do with Mexico? How about the 1864-1867 reign of Austrian Emperor Maximilian I of Mexico. He overthrew (and was later overthrown by) President Benito Juárez, who happens to be the second most well-known Benito in history after that bastard Mussolini. Some day I'll overtake them both...

The wines worked well with the enchiladas and it was fun to maintain a "green" theme with the meal. On a second helping I added a bit of ghost pepper sauce and discovered that Grüner Veltliner can hold up to some pretty serious heat, something to consider for future pairings with Thai and Vietnamese food.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

2009 Luke Donald Claret

I've recently reviewed a wine made by the golfer Ernie Els, and today it's time for a Napa red by way of the current World Number One, Luke Donald. Originally from England, Donald entered into a partnership with Terlato in Napa and released his first claret-style wine in 2008. The first Chardonnay came out the following year.

Thanks to the TTB, you're not going to see many American wines labeled as Claret in the future... It's still possible to use names like Burgundy and Champagne if you're grandfathered in, but this particular name restriction has always bugged me since A) it's a fairly generic term and B) the French don't really use it to market Bordeaux.

2009 Luke Donald Claret
Napa Valley
45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot, 13% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot
$40, 13.8% abv.
933 Cases Made

Rich and deep, with black plum, chocolate, leather, and a hint of white pepper. Balanced dark fruit flavors that don't overwhelm the palate. The medium tannins smoothed out with about a half hour in the decanter. It was outstanding with a dinner of grilled steak and asparagus.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

The 2012 Wine Blog Awards

I've been nominated as one of the finalists for the 2012 Wine Blog Awards in the category "Best Wine Reviews on a Wine Blog". Since the awards were introduced in 2007 I don't think I've ever been a finalist, but someone usually submits this site for consideration. I'd like to thank the panel of industry and wine blogger judges that selected my blog out of the now thousands of English language wine blogs online.

Want to show your support for Benito's Wine Reviews and some other great blogs? Get out and vote! Only eight categories, and you don't have to create a login or give an e-mail address or anything like that. Thanks, and cheers!

Vinho Verde

Ah, yet another blistering summer in the South... While we have had a brief rainy respite over the past week, it's ramping back up and we've got a long way to go. It's the perfect situation for throwing some light Vinho Verde in the refrigerator and enjoying a cool glass with dinner.

Over the past couple of years I've gotten to try a lot of different wines of the Vinho Verde region, including still reds, whites, and rosés. But these are the slightly fizzy green wines that most people associate with the name.

Gateway Vinho Verde
Vinho Verde, Portugal
Blend of Trajadura, Loureiro, Arinto and Azal
$10, 9.5% abv.
After telling so many people that Vinho Verde is a good gateway wine for novices, it's fun to see one actually called that. Fittingly, this is a very standard representative sample of the style. Light pear aromas, a touch of sweetness, a good amount of fizz, and low alcohol.

2011 Arca Nova Loureiro
Vinho Verde, Portugal
100% Loureiro
$10, 11.5% abv.
I'd never had this grape on its own before, and was expecting a still wine. But it was fizzy, and yet very different from the first. Very low fruit with darker, floral aromas. Completely dry and fuller bodied with a long finish. More of a thinker, and one that I found myself exploring more as it warmed up in the glass.

Julia and I enjoyed both of these with lamb gyros and hummus, and the Mediterranean flavors worked out great even if we're talking about opposite ends of the sea.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

How Social Media Put an Herb Garden on my Windowsill

I've only recently started using Klout.com, which is a site that measures your social media influence. I'm not overly concerned about my ranking on such lists, but there are real world discounts and upgrades and other goodies that don't require any active effort on my part, so I thought, "Why not?" I was inspired to check it out after tech blogger Joey DeVilla was able to get into the SFO Cathay Pacific First Class lounge with a score higher than 40, even though he was flying on a different airline. My score of 55 is decent enough, and I recently received my first "perk": an herb garden and $10 from Bing, Microsoft's search engine.

This post is not sponsored by nor is it an advertisement for Bing or Klout (see official disclaimer below). In fact, it would take a lot to move me from using Google (which also owns Blogger.com and hosts this blog). But the whole promotional garden is part of The Bing Summer of Doing. Every day during the summer, there's a new keyword or concept, with suggested activities. Some are fun, some are solo, some are meant for groups, and some are charitable. Many of us are too busy to really need a suggestion about how to spend our scant free time, but there's nothing wrong with encouraging people to make the free time to go for a hike or plant an urban garden or visit a museum rather than sitting in front of the TV or computer.

The kit came with three cups, three compressed soil pellets (about the size of a stack of six quarters), and three tiny seed packets of basil, parsley, and chives. I've grown herbs before and have a pretty good source of fresh ones these days, but this is more of a little decorative kitchen garden for me, and something to tend to each day in quiet meditation.

The condensed soil pellet is awesome. As soon as you add water it explodes to fill the entire cup, and continues to drink up water until you've got a rich, spongy soil. This would be a lot of fun for kids. I prepared the three cups, planted the seeds about half an inch deep, and then added a bit more water. We'll wait and see how they grow.

DISCLOSURE: I was given a free product or sample because I'm a Klout influencer. I was under no obligation to receive the sample or talk about this company. I get no additional benefits for talking about the product or company.

Cadaretta SBS & Cabernet Sauvignon

Cadaretta is part of Middleton Family Wines and is based out of Washington. I first tried the SBS back in 2010 and was glad to have a chance to revisit that blend as well as their Cabernet Sauvignon. Although the Middleton family has been involved in lumber in Washington since 1898, they diversified into grapes in California in the 1980s and came back to make wines in the Walla Walla Valley in 2005 with the Cadaretta line, named after one of their old lumber schooners from the 1920s.

2011 Cadaretta SBS
Columbia Valley, Washington
76% Sauvignon Blanc, 24% Sémillon
$23, 13.1% abv.

Stainless steel fermentation. Two great grapes that were meant to be together: born in Bordeaux, finding each other again in the Evergreen State. Floral and honey aromas with a slight musky note and hint of sweetness that is balanced out by all of the great acidity from the Sauvignon Blanc. I truly adore Sémillon but this particular balance is so wonderful. Highly recommended.

2008 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, Washington
86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc, 2% Merlot
$40, 14.9% abv.
Aged in French oak. Violets and black cherries and green pepper on the nose, medium tannins with a rich plum flavor and a slightly spicy finish. Solid balance and still vibrant after four years. Great combination of sensory experiences with this, and it paired nicely with slow roasted lamb shoulder and some lightly cooked cherries.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

2008 Raumland "Cuvée Marie-Luise" Blanc de Noirs Vintage Brut

Every quarter, I get a pair of wines from the folks at Wines of Germany. It's usually Riesling (like the second bottle for another post), though there is immense diversity within that one grape. When this arrived, I thought it was a mistake.

The name and label made me think it was a California bubbly, but in tiny letters at the bottom you can see Sekthaus Raumland. Yes folks, this is vintage Sekt, and while I've been familiar with the style for a long time I had never actually tried it. The name has gone back and forth as a generic and specific name for sparkling wines from German-speaking regions, but I don't think it's a recognizable enough term for other countries to want to appropriate, as happened in many places with Champagne.

Sekthaus Raumland was founded in 1984 by Volker Raumland, who studied oenology at Geisenheim. While they are a relatively small production winery, they do produce a wide variety of labels, covering traditional, high end Champagne-style wines with some sparkling Riesling and a trio of inexpensive seccos. This and the Cuvée Katharina are named after the Raumlands' daughters.

2008 Raumland "Cuvée Marie-Luise" Blanc de Noirs Vintage Brut
$45, 12% abv.
100% Pinot Noir
Made in Rheinhessen, Germany

While this has 8.5 g/L of residual sugar, the tart acidity makes certain that it doesn't come off as sweet. There are light aromas of apple and lemon, with just a little toast underneath. It's a very pale Blanc de Noirs with none of the salmon tinge you occasionally see. Crisp and mild with medium sized bubbles and a clean finish. Excellent with a plate of cheeses and cured meats as a party is just warming up. This may be difficult to find in the United States, but it's worth trying if you want to expand your life list a bit.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

2008 Terlato Devil's Peak

Terlato Wines International markets luxury wines from all over the world, and according to the website accounts for 10% of all bottles over $14 sold in the United States. There are a number of brands in the portfolio, many of which have been featured here, but today I'll focus on Terlato Family Vineyards, with operations in Napa and Sonoma since the father and sons company was founded in 1996. The twelve labels represent ten reds and two whites, with a focus on high-end, smaller production wines (250-3000 cases).

2008 Terlato Devil's Peak
Napa Valley, California
50% Cabernet Franc, 39% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon
$48, 14.2% abv.
1100 cases produced

You have to love a California Bordeaux-style blend that front loads with a plurality of Cabernet Franc. Black plum and black cherry aromas with a hint of tobacco. On the tongue it provides a deep black fruit flavor with a slight roasted nut element. Mellow tannins and a good overall balance. This is drinking beautifully right now.

While I enjoyed it with a steak, I found myself craving a thick cut pork chop with an apple cider and maple glaze.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

Simple Saturday Brunch

I've been making crêpes more and more recently, and had forgotten how much fun they are. For a recent Saturday brunch I made two different kinds of blintzes, folded in the pillow style rather than rolled in a tube. One has a cottage cheese filling and is topped with strawberries reduced in balsamic vinegar. The other is stuffed with wilted spinach, ricotta, ham, and topped with sour cream and cracked black pepper.

I don't have a proper crêpe pan, but I do have a skillet wide and flat enough to do the trick. If you make a dozen crêpes you'll quickly figure out what works and what doesn't, and if it's hot and dry (as it's been here in Memphis recently), you'll need to add some water along the way to make the batter thin again. Uniformity of thickness is really important, and if your pan has any curvature there's going to be a tendency to be thick in the middle and paper thin on the edges, which is still tasty but doesn't roll or fold well. There's no golden ratio of ingredients, but I've found the ones with more eggs to work better and taste better. In reality you're making something that's somewhere between a pancake and an omelette, and that soft, steamy, eggy dough tastes better when it's a little closer to the omelette side.

The wine pictured is my standard go-to sparkler when I'm out of bubbly samples: the NV Domaine Ste. Michelle Blanc de Noirs from Washington State. I've written about it so many times here that I'm not going to review it again, but will say that it's never disappointed me and went wonderfully with brunch.

Wente Chardonnays

Another quick note: there's a new article up at Serious Eats on my favorite local Mexican torta.

* * *

Time once again for another tasting with Karl Wente and lots of fellow winebloggers at TasteLive. We've participated in a lot of these, and at this point we have a pretty chummy tasting group.

The theme for this tasting was Chardonnay in its various forms. There's not just one way to enjoy this white grape, and Karl talked about the different production methods while the rest of us communicated in the chat log and on Twitter.

2010 Wente Morning Fog Chardonnay
Livermore Valley, San Francisco Bay
$13, 13.5% abv.
Fresh apricot with a big mouthfeel and just a bit of acidity. Lots of fruit. Half oak, half stainless steel. It's a great entry-level Chardonnay that will work well with all sorts of chicken dishes.

2011 Wente Eric's Chardonnay
Livermore Valley, San Francisco Bay
$22, 13.1% abv.
All stainless steel fermentation, so this wine was light and refreshing with mild aromas. Overall profile of apples and pears with a light mouthfeel and a soft finish. Great summer wine.

2010 Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay
Arroyo Seco, Monterey
$20, 13.5% abv.
Getting into some serious oak with this one. The nose starts out with floral elements before revealing the buttery vanilla undertones. Well rounded with a medium body and a long finish. A classic California Chardonnay.

2010 Wente Nth Degree Chardonnay
Livermore Valley, San Francisco Bay
$45, 13.6% abv.
Nth was always my favorite Scrabble word for grabbing a few points in a tight corner without vowels. This is a remarkable wine that combines tropical elements like pineapple and orange flower with a great balanced oak structure. It is decidedly New World but has incredible structure. Just enough acidity, just enough oak, and just enough fruit... While it's much better at cellar temperature I did enjoy sipping on this one for a while one rainy afternoon.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

2008 Quickfire Merlot

Brief note: I'm getting the old itch again and am tweaking the blog a bit. We're now in a three-column layout with a wider design to take advantage of modern monitors. I will likely be changing the background pattern and header soon, but for now let me know if there's any glitches or problems. Now, on to the wine!

* * *

The wines of Quickfire are co-branded with Bravo's reality show Top Chef. I have to admit to not actually having seen the show, though I am aware of it through general cultural osmosis. The name Quickfire refers to an early challenge about making a dish with specific restrictions within one hour. A lot of friends ask me why I never go on these shows, and I point out that I'm A) not a professional chef and B) I prefer making my friends and family happy at my table. If you don't like it, you don't have to come over for dinner. Easy enough. This Iron Chef will eliminate you! "Allez Cuisine!"

I don't see the Merlot on the website, but this wine showed up as part of a broader package of Terlato wines designated for Father's Day.

On this particular day, I had actually hung up my knives and pans and ordered a "gourmet" from Johnny Brusco's Pizza. It's a vegetarian pizza with feta, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, olives, and other odds and ends. While I'm a committed omnivore I love a well-balanced vegetarian pizza, and this one never disappoints. It was a delightful way to spend a Friday evening after a long day at work. Good pie, a light and refreshing red, and a brainless movie on the laptop.

2008 Quickfire Merlot
Primarily Merlot with a little Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
$22, 13.7% abv.

Bright red cherry aromas and flavors with mild tannins and a light, fruity finish. A classic California Merlot that displays a lot of fruit and a focus on the brighter, lighter flavors as opposed to deep earthy ones. Certainly a delightful pairing with the pizza, and fun for an occasional glass of red over the following weekend.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.