30 May 2012

Magyar Borok: Deresƶla Pincészet

The folks at Cognac One contacted me and asked if I'd like to try one of their recent portfolio additions from Hungary. I am always excited to try wines from outside the "mainstream" wine world, which is ridiculous because Hungary has been a wine powerhouse far longer than anywhere in the New World.

The wines here come from Deresƶla Pincészet or Chateau Deresƶla, so named because it's currently owned by the French D’Aulan family of Champagne. Prior to that it passed through many hands and national powers since the founding in the early 15th century. Owners included the Turks, Austrian Empire, Prince of Transylvania, various other minor European nobles, a Jewish merchant family until the Holocaust, a crippling time under the Communists, and then an acquisition by a French co-op called CANA in the 1990s. I think it's in pretty loving hands now with the D'Aulans and hopefully they are able to have a peaceful and stable future.

2010 Chateau Deresƶla Dry Tokaji
85% Furmint, 10% Hárslevelű, 5% Yellow Muscat
$15, 12.5% abv.
I served this with the crespelle from Monday's post. It is a light and crisp wine with light floral aromas and excellent minerality. Balanced acidity, a medium finish, and just a hint of sweetness. It was a good contrast to the rich cream sauce and nutty flavors of the spinach and prosciutto. Also quite good with the white asparagus. While I was excited to try the wine, my main goal was to demonstrate that the same grapes, same region, but different process, can produce...

2006 Chateau Deresƶla Tokaji Aszú
70% Furmint, 30% Hárslevelű
5 Puttonyos
$40, 11.5% abv., 500mL
1,420 Cases Made
A rule I have with Tokaji is always to serve it with someone that has never had it before, and it was a pleasure to introduce it to Julia's parents. Part of that is because I get so much joy from seeing the reactions, but also there's no way I can finish off a 500mL or even 375mL bottle. I love it, but I just need a small glass. Rich, musky aroma with notes of honeysuckle, clover, overripe apricot and peach, and honey. On the tongue there is amazing acidity that is not citric but rather more like that tang of really ripe stone fruit. Definitely sweet but not cloying, and just a delight. Sunshine in a glass, and highly recommended.

Note: These wines were received as samples.


fredric koeppel said...

wow, I'm jealous. Furmint is a great grape, dry or sweet, like sauvignon blanc, but different of course.

Benito said...


I've had a few other dry Furmints in the past, but it's so amazing to try it beside a sweet one. It's also one of the few Hungarian grapes that's really easy to pronounce.