Hourglass Tasting

For the second year in a row, I've gotten the chance to taste a quartet of half bottles from Hourglass Vineyard in Napa Valley. My first tasting was in January 2013 and these were sampled a few months ago.

Napa is still recovering from the recent earthquake, so if you want to support those winemakers, growers, and everyone involved in the local industry, consider drinking a Napa wine this weekend. There has been a lot of damage to barrel rooms and cellars throughout the region, and your wine dollars do make a difference.

2013 Hourglass Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$40/750ml bottle

This is one of those bottles that I'd love to pour for a blind tasting. Unlike a lot of California Sauvignon Blanc, it is light, gentle, and restrained. There are slight elements of citrus and herbs but the presentation is so delicate. I would serve it with grilled quail and a simple salad.

2012 Blueline Estate Merlot
Napa Valley/Calistoga
91% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 2% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

The Merlot opens up with aromas of stewed fruits and pencil shavings. The tannins are extremely mild, leading to a soft but long finish. Outstanding with a veal chop seasoned with Herbes de Provence.

2012 Blueline Estate Malbec
Napa Valley/Calistoga
75% Malbec, 25% Petit Verdot
$75/750ml bottle

This is a great Bordeaux blend of two grapes that you don't often see in the forefront in that region. Dominant profile of black cherry, with touches of dried cranberry on the back. On the nose there is a pleasant earthiness, while the strong tannins show a wine that should develop beautifully over the next few years. For now, this is a great Saturday night steak wine.

2012 Blueline Estate Cabernet Franc
Napa Valley/Calistoga
83% Cabernet Franc, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot
$135/750ml bottle

The price might seem high for a Cabernet Franc but it will show you just how expressive this tiny grape can be. It is rich and dark with a pronounced cassis flavor. A sniff yields touches of black pepper, chocolate, and leather. The tannins are firm but not overbearing and again, it is one that will only improve with proper aging. Highly recommended.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Charles Krug Wine Tasting

Charles Krug is the oldest winery in Napa, dating back to 1861 when a Prussian immigrant got into the wine business. It didn't really achieve greatness until after Prohibition when Cesare Mondavi purchased the company, and the rest is history. Earlier this week I got to join an online tasting of these four wines with Peter Mondavi, Jr.

2013 Charles Krug Limited Release Estate Sauvignon Blanc
Napa Valley
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$35, 13.6% abv.

The lone white wine of the tasting has remarkable funky tones, and I say that as a good thing. Grass, gooseberry, a little earth and a powerful body make this a really fascinating Sauvignon Blanc. Keep this one around for that savory duck in mole sauce dish that you've always been wanting to try.

2011 Charles Krug Napa Valley Merlot
Napa Valley
84% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Sirah, 3% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot
$25, 14% abv.

Smooth cherry aromas and flavors with a hint of coffee on the edge. Mild, round body with a gentle finish. Excellent Old World balance at work here.

2011 Charles Krug Family Reserve Generations
Napa Valley
87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Petit Verdot, 4% Malbec, 3% Merlot
$50, 13.9% abv.

My favorite of the tasting, this bottle showed complex aromas of plum and stewed fruit but with low tannins and a delicate mouthfeel. Well-aged at this point but with great potential over the next few years. Highly recommended, and serve with rare lamb.

2011 Charles Krug Family Reserve Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec
$75, 13.7% abv.

The most Bordeaux-like of the the three Bordeaux-style blends, this Cab Sav showed up early with hints of pyrazine, tobacco, leather, and cassis. Firmer tannins than the Generations, and one that benefits from longer breathing now and longer aging in the future. But otherwise a phenomenal steak wine, and a great choice for those that want a stronger red on the table.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Mini-Post of Rutherford Wines for Thanksgiving

I've had the pleasure of trying the products of the Rutherford Wine Company multiple times over the years, and have found them to be a consistent and affordable producer of California wines.

The company produces wines under a number of marques, and since I've covered these in some depth in previous years, I will be linking to those reviews. But a sampling reveals that the quality of the wines has remained stable over time, and the wide distribution of these wines should make them easy choices for your Thanksgiving table this year.

Round Hill Wines, first reviewed in January 2013.

2012 Round Hill Chardonnay
$8
18,000 cases made

2012 Round Hill White Zinfandel
$8
5,000 cases made

2011 Round Hill Merlot
$8
6,000 cases made

2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
$8
14,000 cases made

Silver Buckle Cellars, tasted and sampled in November 2012.

2011 Silver Buckle Cellars Chardonnay
Lodi, California
$18

2010 Silver Buckle Cellars Ranchero Red
Central Coast, California
$20

BONUS!

There's a lot of other classic information on the holidays here at BWR. Remember that you can always scroll down the left margin and search by topic. For instance, there are 9 posts tagged with "Thanksgiving", and a slightly overlapping category of Turkey that covers leftovers as well as one wine from the nation of turkey.

As time goes on, I'm sure that I will find new and interesting ways to make all of these many articles (1,342 as of this posting) more readily available and searchable for you dear readers.

I wrote about the Predator Zin back in November 2011

2012 Predator Old Vine Zinfandel
$15
36,000 cases made

And the Rhiannon red blend in April 2012, during which I rambled in Welsh for a while.

2012 Rhiannon Red Wine
$13
19,000 cases made


Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Red Rock Winery

I first wrote about the wines of Red Rock Winery back in 2008 when I braised a turkey leg in blueberries.

Red Rock only makes red wines, and these four bottles represent the entire product line. The grapes are sourced from throughout California vineyards to produce table wines in a big fruit, classic Golden State style. Keep these in mind as great matches for burgers, pizza... I affectionately refer to wines like these as "Tuesday night wines": not a special occasion, but more something that you open up after a long day at work and while having a normal weekday meal rather than a complex preparation of squid ink pasta with slices of raw scallops.

2011 Red Rock Winery Malbec
California
$14, 13.6% abv.

Although marked as a Malbec, California law only requires that 75% of the grapes are in the mix to bear the varietal name. For instance, this one includes Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon to add depth and structure. Dominant notes of plum and black pepper with a firm tannic understructure contributed by the darker grapes.

2012 Red Rock Winery Pinot Noir
California
$14, 13.6% abv.

A fairly standard bargain California Pinot Noir with lots of ripe strawberry aromas, mild tannins, and a short but tart finish. The most gentle of the quartet, though not quite delicate enough to pair with salmon.

2011 Red Rock Winery Merlot
California
$14, 13.74% abv.

A bright and fruity California Merlot full of black cherry aromas and flavors with a touch of spice. Round body and a long, mouth-drying finish.

2011 Red Rock Winery Winemaker's Blend
California
Proprietary Blend of Petite Sirah, Syrah, Zinfandel
$14, 13.5% abv.

The last one was my favorite of the batch, and represented a solid blend that achieved good balance. The initial sniff reveals dark blackberry and deep black fruit scents with matching flavors. Not jammy, but trending in that direction. The wine shows firm tannins with a long finish. Decanting is highly recommended to soften and further balance the wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

William Hill Estate Winery

While tasting a pair of Napa reds from William Hill Estate Winery on a quiet and rainy September afternoon, I found myself craving munchkin burgers. I know I've covered them many times in the past, but my dinner guests love eating them and I love making them. A little red onion marmalade, some smoked Gouda, mesclun greens... So simple yet so delicious, and while these are serious wines, I feel that the preparation of these little burgers demands something substantial.

2010 William Hill Estate Merlot
Napa Valley
100% Merlot
$30, 14.5% abv.
5,000 cases made

Classic California Merlot with aromas and flavors of cherry and black pepper. Medium tannins and a gentle finish. As it opens up it becomes a little softer with deeper plum flavors.

2010 William Hill Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Petite Sirah, 1% Merlot
$40, 14.8% abv.
6,874 cases made

Of the two wines, I preferred this bottle with its clever blend. It opens up with a nose of plum and leather, coffee, chocolate, and a touch of spice. Firm tannins and one that rewards a thorough swirling of the glass. It matched particularly well with the rich onion marmalade and I think would go great with a thick porterhouse, cooked medium rare and carved for several people.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Hedges Wines of Washington

I've tried the wines of Hedges Family Estate many times over the years, and was eager to give them a new sip and swirl here in 2013. I was delighted to see that so many of them showed up wearing throwback labels--in this case, a specific design style from the 60s and 70s in the United States, primarily on the west coast. The general idea was to look vaguely European but not adhering to any one country. So you'll see elements of classic German, French, and Italian wine label design all jumbled up. These are more noticeable in the second trio of wines below: elaborate coats-of-arms that don't represent an actual royal house, the diagonal phrase in a different ink, competing gothic and italic calligraphy, gold leaf, etc.

To see some real life examples from the early 70s, check out this vintage book I reviewed in 2007. Alas, I have to remind myself to ignore the fun graphic design and actually taste the wines on their own merits...

2011 Hedges CMS Red
Columbia Valley
49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, 4% Syrah
$14, 13.5% abv.

Touch of stewed fruit, sour cherry. Mild mouthfeel and a brief finish. Loved this with some stewed pork shoulder.

2011 Hedges Red Mountain
Red Mountain AVA
Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot
$29, 13.5% abv.

Black cherry and pepper, undertones of plum and blackberry. A pleasant little blend that would go well with a grilled steak on a Saturday afternoon.

2012 CMS Sauvignon Blanc
85% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Chardonnay, 5% Marsanne
$14, 14% abv.

Crisp and refreshing with notes of apricot and a splash of lemony acidity. Found myself wanting more Marsanne--not because the wine was out of balance, I just love that grape. Serve with Oysters Rockefeller during an appetizer course.

2011 HIP Merlot
Columbia Valley
100% Merlot
$14, 13%

HIP stands for "House of Independent Producers", and this and the next wine focus on a single grape variety from a specific winemaker. This gentle Merlot is definitely made in the French style with mild cherry flavors and a light body, light years away from the bold fruit bombs of California. The first domestic Merlot I've had that I think is appropriate for serving with salmon.

2011 HIP Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$14, 13.5% abv.

The Chardonnay from this series has a surprising aroma of Meyer lemon, with flavors to match. There is that nice balance between acid and cream, and I served this one with a simple salad topped with dried figs and toasted pistachios and goat cheese.

2011 Descendants Liégeois Dupont Syrah
Red Mountain AVA
100% Syrah
$29, 14% abv.

Lastly, we have a proprietary blend done in a Rhône style. Plum and spice, mild tannins, and a deep, dark finish. A substantial and fruity red that demands a big dish. I had it with a bleu cheese burger, but think that it would be a nice accompaniment to game like venison or duck. Let it breathe and decant for a bit to enjoy all of the flavors of the wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Dry Creek Rosé

We're enjoying an unusually cool May here in Memphis, but it's still warm enough to break out the dry rosé. This lineup of Sonoma pinks come from Dry Creek Valley, a region I had the pleasure of visiting in 2009.

A good dry rosé is the perfect pairing for summer, whether you're talking about a picnic or a barbecue or dinner on the deck with friends. Don't know what your host is serving for dinner? Bring a dry rosé. Even if it's not a perfect match for any of the dishes, it will still be fun to sip while everyone is milling around.

When I'm fixing a multi-course meal, I'll generally start with the rosé and then figure out what would work best with that particular wine. Sometimes it's a salad and sometimes it's the seafood course, but I'll often find myself going back to it later in the meal as a refreshing treat.

The first of these is emphatically not a White Zinfandel. It is a dry rosé that happens to be made from Zinfandel grapes, and should not be confused with the super-sweet product that comprises about 10% of all wine sales in the United States.

NV Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
100% Zinfandel
$12, 13.9% abv.
1,800 Cases Made

This is a fairly deep red for a rosé, with bright raspberry aromas and flavors. Firm body with a bold and fruity finish. A little on the tart side. Recommended for the lover of California reds that is interested in branching out into lighter wines. This could hold up well with a big antipasto platter with lots of cured meats.

2012 Mauritson Rosé
Rockpile Vineyard, Sonoma County
40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Malbec, 25% Merlot
$19, 13.5% abv.
297 Cases Made

Here's a fascinating mix of Bordeaux varieties, and you don't see a lot of Cabernet Franc in rosé. This one has a softer profile with aromas of strawberry and a touch of watermelon. Mild and refreshing with balanced acidity, and I would suggest pairing this one with seared tuna topped with a mango salsa.

2012 Kokomo Pauline's Vineyard Grenache Rosé
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
100% Grenache
13.1% abv.
628 Cases Made

This is the most delicate of the three, and my favorite with a nice pale pink color that looks beautiful in sunlight. While restrained the dominant aroma is of red cherry, but there's a hint of ash and earth in the background. Mild acidity and a light body lead to a gentle finish.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

African Passion Wines

There are many more posts to come from the Snooth PVA weekend, but in the meantime I encourage you to check out some of the bloggers that I spent time with in New York. In no particular order... The Wine Hub, Wine Julia, Jameson Fink, Wine Harlots, RJ on Wine, Wine Folly, Reverse Wine Snob, Maker's Table, Brunello Bob, Vineyard Adventures, Vine Sleuth, Serious Eats' Seema Gunda, Vindulge, Wannabe Wino, My Vine Spot, and Avvinare. Additionally, all of these blogs have been added to the National & Global blogroll on the right. I'll have some more on all of these fine folks in the future, but for now I hope you enjoy their sites.

To give a sneak preview, I'll be posting about Scarpa Barolo and Barbera d'Asti, Oregon Wines, Wines of Brazil, Ribera del Duero, White Wines of Italy, Assorted Wines from the People's Voice Awards, Wines of Austria, Wines of South Africa, and finally, Rioja. Plus tons of food coverage for several of those tastings.

And now, for three wines tasted a couple of weeks ago...

African Passion Wines appear to be a rebranding of the Golden Kaan wines for the American market. Regardless, both are part of the powerful Koöperatieve Wijnbouwers Vereniging van Zuid-Afrika Bpkt (KWV) co-operative that has been a major player in South African wine since 1918. This brand is being launched with the help of Danny Glover, who had some harsh words for the Apartheid regime of 1980s South Africa in the great movie Lethal Weapon 2, but part of the proceeds from this brand go to charities in South Africa. What a difference a generation makes.

While I could have roasted up a ring of boerewors or a haunch of springbok, a lack of both in the local greengrocers meant that I instead tried these wines alongside a rich pepperoni-jalapeño calzone from Mellow Mushroom in Germantown.

2012 African Passion Chenin Blanc
Western Cape, South Africa
100% Chenin Blanc
$10, 12.5% abv.

This Steen is grassy with a citrus tone, but more round than tart in the body. Low acidity and a clean finish. Would be perfect with a grilled chicken salad topped with a few pomegranate pips.

2011 African Passion Cabernet Sauvignon
Western Cape, South Africa
100% Cabernet Sauvignon
$10, 13.5% abv.

Lots of red fruit, plenty of cherry and a hint of plum. Very low tannins. Perfect match with the calzone, and one that I think would go great with a wide range of Italian dishes.

2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot
Western Cape, South Africa
54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot
$10, 13.5% abv.

Also quite mellow, and my favorite of the three. Black cherry and the barest hint of coffee with a little tannic edge before melting into a soft finish. The stronger flavors and firmer finish from the grape skins mean that this one is much better suited for the barbecue grill. Let the charred flesh of pork or goat play against those stronger flavors, and your palate will be rewarded.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Hourglass Wines Online Tasting

I've written a lot recently about bargain wines, but I am able to appreciate the finer things when given the opportunity. Recently I go to attend an online tasting of Hourglass wines with the owner (Jeff Smith, son of Ned, the founder) and winemaker (Tony Biagi, formerly of Plumpjack). The winery was founded around the famous Judgment of Paris, and Time magazine author George Taber joined us.

The winery is named after the hourglass shape of Napa Valley, specifically the pinch, fractured bedrock formation where the ancient rocks get pushed outwards instead of down. Lots of discussion on fog and heat going through the valleys through this formation, adding a climatic element to the terroir. The vineyards were mostly devoted to Zinfandel, but after a Phylloxera infestation, the vines were replanted in 1991 to showcase more Bordeaux grapes. Ned's widow wanted to sell the property, but Jeff wanted to keep making great wines. It turned out to be a great decision.

We tasted half bottles, all of the prices below are for regular 750mL bottles.

2010 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Merlot
Calistoga, Napa Valley
83% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Franc
$75, 16.5% abv.
Cassis and cedar, really deep aroma of dark fruit, tart, tangy flavor and finish. A really huge Merlot without being a fruit bomb. Gets smoother and yet still very rich with breathing room.

2010 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Cabernet Franc
Calistoga, Napa Valley
94% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon
$135, 15.2% abv.
20 year old vines. Hard to grow in Napa. Pyrzine gives the herbal characteristic,
Stony and mineral, very delicate touch of the green tobacco leaf. Very mild body, light finish. Really loved this one.

2010 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
100% Cabernet Sauvignon (1 lot of clone 337 [France], 2 separate lots of clone 4 [California])
$125, 15.5% abv.
Notes of red cherry and licorice, flavors of plum and some more of that great mineral undertones.

2010 Hourglass Estate Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
$155, 14.9% abv.
Wow, amazing black cherry and leather, chocolate, deep, dark wine. Very light tannins, long, supple finish. Very well structured and highly recommended if you can find it.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Round Hill Wines

Continuing with the sequence of Rutherford Wine from California, a follow up to the November post on Silver Buckle. I've also tried the Round Hill wines for the first time back in 2011.

I'm reminded at times of my barber named Hawk, who cut my hair from the ages of 3-31. He operated out of the same storefront in Whitehaven for that entire period (and many years before), and at one point told me that he'd have someone come in for a haircut and think that the fellow looked familiar and upon further discussion, it was determined that the customer was a son or grandson of someone he cut hair for decades ago.

My own legacy with wine tasting is barely at the two decade mark but there are still times when I try something, go to look up information about it, and find that I wrote a review four or five years ago.

2011 Round Hill Chardonnay
California
100% Chardonnay
$8, 12.5% abv.

This is a classic California Chardonnay with strong buttered popcorn, vanilla, and apricot aromas. Full fruit flavors and a long finish. While I prefer a milder Chardonnay, I always love serving these wines to friends because the aromas are so powerful and it can be an easy way to show that wine can smell like things other than fermented grapes.

2010 Round Hill Cabernet Sauvignon
California
93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Syrah, 3% Zinfandel
$8, 12.5% abv.

A fun little blend that contains notes of green herbs, black cherry and tobacco. There's a touch of leather on the palate with medium tannins. Strong enough to stand up to a hearty burger or pepperoni pizza.

2010 Round Hill Merlot
California
90% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Other Red
$8, 12.5% abv.

Ripe red cherry aroma with just a little white pepper. Mild mouthfeel and low tannins with a round, plummy finish. A very quaffable casual red, and of the three I found this to be my favorite. Just a pleasant red table wine to enjoy with dinner or while reading a book. Sometimes I really want a heavily structured wine with 3,000 years of history and aristocratic origins and a label that requires knowledge of four languages, and other times I just enjoy the simple pleasure of a glass of red enjoyed from a tumbler at the end of a long day at work.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Wente Blind Tasting

October 30, 2012: I attend an online wine event and say, "Who the hell drops a Souzao in a blind tasting? This is the best Halloween trick ever."

September 28, 2009: I serve a Mexican wine blind to my friend Fredric.

I have mixed feelings on blind tastings. I used to do them pretty regularly, and actually got good at one point. In order to be decent at the activity you need to taste frequently and do your homework. It can be fun amongst friends, and sometimes instructive amongst newcomers. Sometimes my nose is just way off and it's damned near embarrassing. This Wente Vineyards event was interesting. Participating winebloggers received four bottles tied in black bags, along with a Carnival black eye mask and the admonition not to peek at the labels.

Wine #1: I think it's Syrah. Black cherry and pepper with a little tannic bite and some tart raspberry aftertaste.

2010 Wente Sandstone Merlot
Merlot with Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot
Livermore Valley/San Francisco Bay
$15, 13.5% abv.

These blends were throwing me off, but you've got to warm up a bit. I've taken a punch, I'm ready to deliver an uppercut. On its own, I enjoyed the leftover Merlot with a ham sandwich on rye with lots of stone-ground mustard. Delightful.

Wine #2: I'm guessing Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot. Bigger tannins, cassis, olives, black tea.

2010 Wente Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon
Cabernet Sauvignon with Petite Sirah and Petit Verdot
Livermore Valley/San Francisco Bay
$15, 13.5% abv.

Nothing but net. Great bargain here, and it will class up a thick steak topped with mushrooms.

Wine #3: I was calling this one Merlot heavy, Médoc style. Dark, plum, savory flavors.

2010 Wente Small Lot Cabernet Franc
Livermore Valley
$40, 14.2% abv.

A really smooth and classy Cabernet Franc, which is where I was getting the Médoc notes. Definitely check this out if you ever get the chance, and break out the lamb shoulder for a hearty winter treat.

Wine #4: I suggested Portuguese grapes because of the unique barnyard and black cherry aromas, along with something that reminded me of Douro.

2009 Murietta's Well Los Tesoros de Joaquin Souzao
90% Souzao, 10% Petite Sirah
Livermore Valley
56 cases made
$24, 13.4% abv.

One wineblogger actually nailed it with Souzao, but I'm happy with my guess. This is a great wine that's even better on the next day, where it is light and delicate. Highly recommended if you can encounter one of the 672 bottles produced. Serve this with the best pork you can afford (heritage chops, aged and cured ham, etc.).


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Spelletich Wines

Spelletich Family Winery was founded in 1994 by Tim and Barb Spelletich in Napa. They make about 3,000 cases a year under the Spelletich label and 5,000 cases a year under their daughter Kristen's Spell Wine brand. The family operation makes a wide range of bottles from $18-75, and cover the classic grapes of the region. I got a chance to try four of them recently.

2006 Spell Wine Syrah
Napa Valley
$20, 14.4% abv.
250 Cases Made

Black pepper and plum with firm tannins and a long, lingering finish. A bold red that will stand up to a dish of lasagna with plenty of spicy sausage in it.

2007 3 Spells Blend GHK
Napa Valley
57% Merlot, 28% Sangiovese, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon
$26, 14.2% abv.
300 Cases Made

Black pepper and cherry with a solid tannic structure. While delicious now, I think this wine could age for another couple of years with great results.

2006 Spelletich Cellars Reserve Merlot
Napa Valley
$45, 14.2% abv.
400 Cases Made

Classic hints of plum and leather with a soft finish. I usually go with Pinot Noir when it comes to salmon but this could be a contender.

2009 Spelletich Cellars Reserve Chardonnay
Napa Valley
$27, 14.5% abv.
200 Cases Made

Light splash of lemony acidity and a bright profile, restrained flavors with mild oak and a touch of vanilla. Break out your best lemon rosemary roast chicken for this one.

Second-generation winemaker and Director of Operations Kristen Spelletich was kind enough to take a break from harvest to answer a few questions for BWR:

I grew up around the Memphis International Airport where my Dad worked, so I got to fly a lot and help with de-icing equipment and run around all kinds of cool airplane equipment as a child. What's it like growing up when the family business is an "adult" beverage that you won't really get to experience or appreciate until you're much older?

Funny you should ask that questions, When I was super little I used to have little sherry glasses and my mom would have dinners parties all the time and she would pour me wine and ask in front of everyone what I thought, they found it so funny that a 7 year old could talk about French wines. And when we moved to St. Helena when I was 12 and they started things... I had no desire... I wanted to get into pathology and do something like a CSI would do. I got caught sneaking out in 9th grade and my punishment was hand labeling our entire first vintage. But as I grew and got into college and was studying abnormal psychology and I got a job at the French Laundry everything changed. I had a palate for food and wine... and everything I had grown up with clicked. And I knew that this is where I should be.

Your Spellwine bottles have some pretty interesting names. Can you pick a perfect pairing of one of them with a fantasy or horror movie to enjoy as Halloween approaches? And why did you choose that particular pairing?

I am a horror movie freak, even as a child I loved them... I even named my son after a character in a Stephen King book. Wow this is hard... to pick just one... As a child, I loved The Shining, that is still one of my top five. Killer Klowns From Outer Space was another one I really liked. When I was super little I saw Piranha and I had nightmares for a few months after that. We may have to talk more about that... or give me some more time.

I love that you named one of your wines after your son. [The GHK blend/Gage Henry Kahler.] Does he do any work in the vineyards, and is he interested in the wine industry?

I wish...we need to wait a few more years for that. He turns 4 in December. He does come and help as he can... but mostly spends the day riding on the forklift and pretending to fix things with his Papa’s (grandfather's) tools. He did spend the first year of his life here every day. We used a macro bin as a play pen. It was great!

How has interacting via social media helped your company? What works best, Facebook, Twitter, the website, etc?

I am a big facebooker; Twitter is still very foreign to me. I think Facebook is worked very well and now I hear I need to figure out Pintrest…so many things to keep up on...but it’s great that so much marketing is at my fingertips for free!!


Note: These wines were received as samples.

2008 Quickfire Merlot

Brief note: I'm getting the old itch again and am tweaking the blog a bit. We're now in a three-column layout with a wider design to take advantage of modern monitors. I will likely be changing the background pattern and header soon, but for now let me know if there's any glitches or problems. Now, on to the wine!

* * *

The wines of Quickfire are co-branded with Bravo's reality show Top Chef. I have to admit to not actually having seen the show, though I am aware of it through general cultural osmosis. The name Quickfire refers to an early challenge about making a dish with specific restrictions within one hour. A lot of friends ask me why I never go on these shows, and I point out that I'm A) not a professional chef and B) I prefer making my friends and family happy at my table. If you don't like it, you don't have to come over for dinner. Easy enough. This Iron Chef will eliminate you! "Allez Cuisine!"

I don't see the Merlot on the website, but this wine showed up as part of a broader package of Terlato wines designated for Father's Day.

On this particular day, I had actually hung up my knives and pans and ordered a "gourmet" from Johnny Brusco's Pizza. It's a vegetarian pizza with feta, sun-dried tomatoes, artichoke hearts, olives, and other odds and ends. While I'm a committed omnivore I love a well-balanced vegetarian pizza, and this one never disappoints. It was a delightful way to spend a Friday evening after a long day at work. Good pie, a light and refreshing red, and a brainless movie on the laptop.

2008 Quickfire Merlot
Primarily Merlot with a little Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
$22, 13.7% abv.

Bright red cherry aromas and flavors with mild tannins and a light, fruity finish. A classic California Merlot that displays a lot of fruit and a focus on the brighter, lighter flavors as opposed to deep earthy ones. Certainly a delightful pairing with the pizza, and fun for an occasional glass of red over the following weekend.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

Bonterra Organic Wines

Bonterra Vineyards of Mendocino, California has been making organic wine since 1987. The red wines I tried have corks and the white wines have screwcaps, which deliver a clue to the type of agriculture they're engaged in. The screwcap has a silhouette of a parasitic wasp used to fight other insect pests in the vineyard.

It's some member of the family Ichneumonidae, a group of predators that kill their prey in an elaborate, diabolical, complicated, and gruesome fashion. See a few videos like that and you start to think that a quick blast of poison would be more humane, but at the end of the day I'll take my own health over that of caterpillars and aphids and other pests, and it's also cool to know that millions of years of evolution have provided the precise biological warfare agent needed to protect your grapes. That's the kind of knowledge that will allow me to take over the world with an army of wombats and nematodes. (Strokes white cat, cackles maniacally.)

In addition to the wasps, the labels feature other helpful animals: butterflies, dragonflies, birds that eat rodents, and birds that eat insects. When I was in Sonoma visiting organic wineries, it was always fascinating to hear about how you just had to make sure that your vineyard was open to the right kind of predators--you didn't need to buy ladybugs, just create an environment in which they were welcome. At Bonterra, the founding winemaker Robert Blue is a pioneer of organic viticulture in California, and his bottles are a real delight.

2010 Bonterra Chardonnay
Mendocino County
92% Chardonnay, 4% Muscat, 4% Viognier
$14, 13.5% abv.
Bright and well rounded with a ripe pear profile. Just enough oak to be interesting.

2010 Bonterra Sauvignon Blanc
60% Lake County, 40% Mendocino County
95% Sauvignon Blanc, 4% Muscat, 1% Chardonnay
$14, 13% abv.
Crisp and tart, lemony with a clean finish. Definitely a great seafood wine.

2010 Bonterra Viognier
Mendocino County
81% Vigonier, 10% Marsanne, 5% Muscat, 4% Roussanne
$14, 13.7% abv
Amazingly bright nose with herbal and floral undertones. Firm ripe apricot flavors with a dark aftertaste that lingers for quite some time. Definitely my favorite of the half dozen, and reminds me why I fell in love with Viognier years ago.

2009 Bonterra Merlot
Mendocino County
78% Merlot, 13% Syrah, 4% Petite Sirah, 4% Zinfandel, 1% Carignane
$16, 13.6% abv
Black cherry and blackberry, cedar, light and mild and smooth with low tannins. A classic California Merlot with an interesting blend of supporting grapes.

2010 Bonterra Pinot Noir
Mendocino County
100% Pinot Noir
$16, 14.1% abv.
Overripe strawberry, tart acidity, rich fruit flavors, strong finish. Definitely the strongest of the three reds even though it's typically such a soft grape.

2010 Bonterra Cabernet Sauvignon
87% Mendocino County, 13% Lake County
81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petite Sirah, 7% Syrah, 3% Carignane
$16, 13.5% abv.
Rich plum and black pepper, very mild tannins, short finish. Excellent balance and, like the Merlot, such a wonderful blend. I love seeing the Carignane in there.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Seven Concannon Wines

"Seven Concannon Wines" sounds like an old Irish folk song. My grandmother has dabbled in this music on the hammered dulcimer and a few other traditional instruments. When I first encountered Concannon in the form of a Petite Sirah at a tasting, I was struck by the Irish name. Despite the long Catholic history of the island, the massive imports of wine from France during eras when England was sticking to Ports and Sherries from Spain, and a small indigenous industry, you just don't normally see Irish names associated with wine. But Concannon was founded by an Irish immigrant in the Livermore Valley back in 1883 and the family tradition continues today.

I'm not entirely Irish--my family comes from throughout the British Isles--but with the red beard and freckles and a tendency to sunburn anywhere outside of Seattle, I've got plenty of the blood of Éire running through my veins. When I was in Boston everyone thought I was a local. I don't get obnoxious during St. Patrick's Day (I'm a Protestant, which would complicate matters), but during that high school "wanting an identity" phase I got pretty heavy into the Scots-Irish part of the family tree. Songs were sung, kilts were worn, but I learned a lot of interesting history and developed a general wariness toward England.

Without further blathering and perhaps a teary rendition of "Danny Boy", I present a slate of Concannon wines that I've tried over the past few months:

2008 Concannon Conservancy Chardonnay
Livermore Valley
$15, 13.5% abv.
Apricot nose with a touch of butter and vanilla. A good example of California Chardonnay, and something that needs to be paired up with a strongly flavored poultry dish.

2007 Concannon Conservancy Petite Sirah
Livermore Valley
$15, 13.5% abv.
Dominant aromas of cassis and blackberry. Medium tannins, restrained fruit. Always one of my favorite bargain Petite Sirahs, and I'm glad to revisit it from time to time. Open this up some afternoon with leftover roast beef and horseradish sauce and enjoy a perfect wine/sandwich combination.

2009 Concannon Selected Vineyards Riesling
Central Coast
$10, 13.5% abv.
Light and crisp with a hint of lemony acidity. West coast Riesling can show up in a lot of different styles, but this is one that would be great with simple summer salads like the classic strawberry and spinach.

2007 Concannon Selected Vineyards Shiraz
Central Coast
$10, 13.5% abv.
This one isn't listed on the company website, and past reviews show both the Syrah and Shiraz spelling on labels along with mixed reviews. The sample I received was not the best example of Syrah I've tasted, and was too heavy on the tart side.

2009 Concannon Selected Vineyards Pinot Noir
Central Coast
$10, 13.5% abv.
Initially tart and strong, but it quickly softens in the glass. Boysenberry and a touch of bacon fat, a little bitter tannic finish, and a lighter red appearance. A basic introductory Pinot Noir, and not a bad deal for the price.

2009 Concannon Selected Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
Central Coast
$10, 13.5% abv.
Bright raspberry aroma, touch of seeds, firm tannins and a long cherry finish. Man, I love that raspberry seed flavor in wine when it's just right. Not going to give a food pairing here, just saying this one should be enjoyed on its own for a nightcap.

2008 Concannon Selected Vineyards Merlot
Central Coast
$10, 13.5% abv.
Green bell peppers, tobacco, tart red cherry flavors. Mild tannins, a round body, and a short finish, where a little chocolate shows up. Halfway between Bordeaux and California. Excellent structure for such an inexpensive wine, and recommended for grilled steak or lamb.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Hannah Nicole Vineyards

Hannah Nicole Vineyards is based in Contra Costa County, due east of San Francisco. Originally planned as an apple orchard in 1999, owners Neil and Glenda Cohn decided to switch to wine grapes and found that to be a much more successful path. The winery has grown to include facilities for weddings and other private events, and over the years they have released a wide range of styles and grapes. Here I take a look at four current releases.

2009 Hannah Nicole Sauvignon Blanc Reserve
Contra Costa County
87.5% Sauvignon Blanc, 12.5% Viognier
$22, 14.2% abv.
Lime curd and granite, with a curious burst of sweetness on the first sip. There is a grassy edge on the aftertaste, which gives it an interesting bitterness.

2009 Hannah Nicole Viognier
This is an inverse of the above wine, with 90% Viognier and 10% Sauvignon Blanc Musqué
$18, 14.7% abv.
Fairly powerful for a white, and this one also has more fruit than any Viognier I've had before. Herbs and peaches, wet rock, balanced acidity. Makes me crave some buttery scallops or a seafood bisque.

2007 Hannah Nicole Merlot Reserve
Contra Costa County
100% Merlot
$29, 14.2% abv.
Cassis, plum, none of the simple cherry flavors you might be expecting. Firm tannins and a medium body make this a decent strength Merlot. Still distinctively California, but complex enough to stand up to heartier dishes.

2007 Hannah Nicole Meritage
Contra Costa County
49% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec
$29, 14.1% abv.
Always nice to see a Meritage with all five Bordeaux red grapes represented. (Okay, so technically there are six, but Carménère is mostly a Chilean thing these days.) Leather, chocolate, green bell pepper, a whiff of cedar... All present but very mild. The tannins have mellowed a good bit, and there is a light red cherry flavor to the wine with a mild body and soft finish. I think this would be phenomenal with venison, where the vegetal and cedar character would go nicely with the game flavor.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

James Oatley Tic Tok Wines

Despite the popular jokes and misconceptions, not everyone who went to Australia in the 18th & 19th centuries was a criminal, and England certainly enforced the punishment of transportation by sending convicts to America before the Revolution. But this is the first time I've seen an Australian wine named after such a person. James Oatley was a British clockmaker who stole some bed linen and earned himself a one way ticket to the other side of the world.

His great-great-grandson is the famous winemaker Bob Oatley, whose wines have been reviewed here several times. Moving on down the family lineage, Bob's grandson shares the name James, and he designed the label for this product line. The three triangle motif comes directly from a pattern that was stenciled on to convict uniforms of the time.

What does the name remind me of? Three very different things: Harlan Ellison's classic short story "'Repent, Harlequin!' Said the Ticktockman". There's also Tik-Tok, the clockwork soldier of Oz who was part of the main group in Disney's horrifying Return to Oz movie. But because I listened to a lot of pop radio in the early 90s, I can't see the words "tick tock" without thinking of Color Me Badd's "I Wanna Sex You Up". "To The Tick Tock Ya Don't Stop, To The Tick Top Ya Don't Stop". There, now it's stuck in your head as well! Bwa-ha-ha-ha!

All of the following wines are enclosed with convenient Stelvin screwcaps. Additional information can be found at the Robert Oatley website.

2008 James Oatley Tic Tok Chardonnay
Mudgee, New South Wales
$14, 12.8% abv.
Peach and vanilla, floral, tart, firm acidity with a smoother finish. Great with grilled fish.

2009 James Oatley Tic Tok Sauvignon Blanc (60%)/Semillon (40%)
Western Australia
$14, 12.5% abv.
Bright and citric, lots of grapefruit, honey, etc. The Sauvignon Blanc is really dominant here, but as it warms you can get more of the Semillon character. Good with roast chicken.

2009 James Oatley Tic Tok Pinot Grigio
South Eastern Australia
$14, 13.5% abv.
Nice pale gold color, thin body with a squirt of lemony acidity. Needs something really mild as a pairing, like a tuna salad sandwich.

2009 James Oatley Tic Tok Shiraz
Mudgee, New South Wales
$14, 14% abv.
Plum and blackberry with a touch of spice, jammy and tons of fruit with a little sweetness. Ultimately it has low tannins and a smooth finish. Tried this with a ribeye, where it performed quite well.

2009 James Oatley Tic Tok Merlot
Mudgee, New South Wales
$14, 13.5% abv.
Sort of closed, residual black cherry flavors. Mild tannins, low fruit. Very restrained in its profile, which means that it's a pretty all-purpose red.

2009 James Oatley Tic Tok Cabernet Sauvignon
Mudgee, New South Wales
$14, 14.5% abv.
A little leather and coffee, dark fruit aromas, medium tannins and a tart finish. I didn't have any lamb on hand, but it was what I was thinking about while trying the wine.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Cameron Hughes Online Tasting

This is the second time that I've received a sample set of 50mL bottles packaged by TastingRoom.com. While this particular set isn't available for sale, it was a very convenient way to zip through six wines during a recent online tasting. I still prefer to sit with a single, full-sized bottle and try it with some food, but for some of these events that involve half a dozen or more wines in the space of an hour, this packaging method is a lot more convenient and reduces the amount of wine that gets poured down the drain.

Cameron Hughes is a négociant who buys excess grapes or finished wine from wineries around the world, and then blends and packages them in various ways. It's a great way to make wine without owning actual real estate, and is also helpful for the farmers, who have a market for their extra capacity. Because the lineup is going to be a bit different every year, and has expanded into international wines, the bottles are released with lot numbers instead of nicknames. In general I dislike this because if you look at a bottle of Bin 458 or Lot 103, those numbers don't tell you anything useful. And you could have separate wines from two different producers that were both Lot 150, but one would be a Chardonnay and the other would be a Merlot. As the selection grows over time, the numbers can run together for consumers--Cameron Hughes is up to around Lot 240. This is an area where some detailed information on the back label is crucial to help differentiate the wide range of products.

As well as their online store, these wines are sold in Costco and Sam's Club throughout the country, as well as other grocery stores in those states where such sales are permitted.

2009 Lot 151
Columbia Valley
70% Riesling, 30% Chenin Blanc
$10
Crisp and fruity aroma, medium sweetness with a pineapple character. This is the only Washington wine out of the group, everything that follows is from California.

2008 Lot 176
Los Carneros
$18
95% Pinot Noir, 3% Tempranillo, 2% Syrah
Light strawberry aroma, mild, low tannins. Refreshing but not a lot of complexity.

2007 Lot 175
Napa Valley
$13
100% Merlot
Black cherry, plum, a little black pepper.

2007 Lot 179
Napa Valley
$16
50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50% Syrah
Big and meaty, with some cedar and black plum.

2007 Lot 161
Sonoma County
$16
60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot
Light red cherry, extremely mild and light. Little brambles on the finish.

2007 Lot 172
Atlas Peak, Napa Valley
$22
95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec
Touch of bacon fat, cedar, black cherry, firm tannins, little licorice and black tea. Really want to see this with more age.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

2007 Indian Wells Merlot

A brief review of a wine that I've felt has been a solid performer over multiple vintages... A while back I chose the 2007 Indian Wells Merlot for an online tasting. $18, 14.5% abv. 80% Merlot, 19% Syrah, 1% Malbec, from the Wahluke Slope of Washington state.

While still a bit young, this has an initial aroma of boysenberry jam. There's a touch of toast there as well, but once the wine breathes and softens, you get elements of green pepper, earth, and it becomes light and mellow. I've always wanted to see how this wine ages, but I've never been able to hold on to one long enough to find out.

The Pacific Northwest is putting out some spectacular wines these days, and the region is justifiably becoming trendy and popular in certain corners. A big producer like Ste. Michelle seems at odds with the small, independent reputation that is associated with the area, but I've always been a fan of their still and sparkling wines.

Villa Pozzi Wines

For the past couple of years, I've been the first result on Google for Villa Pozzi, a winery based out of Sicily. I don't use any SEO strategies, but when this happens I get a lot of traffic and e-mails related to the individual wine. As of today, the one post I did on Villa Pozzi is the fourth most popular I've written, with 4,000 page views.

Likewise, I sometimes hear from winemakers themselves. These affordable IGT wines are made on the west side of Sicily by Daniele Pozzi, a fourth-generation winemaker. He'd noticed my old review of his Nero d'Avola and sent me samples of his current releases.

2008 Villa Pozzi Merlot
$10, 13.5% abv.
This bottle starts off somewhat closed, but give it half an hour to breathe. It opens up to breathe and reveal big plum flavors, chocolate, and a touch of coffee.

2008 Villa Pozzi Cabernet Sauvignon
$10, 13.5% abv.
This is a pretty standard Cabernet Sauvignon that is smoother than you might expect from a warmer climate. Black cherry, oak, touch of toast, smooth, low tannins.

2009 Villa Pozzi Pinot Grigio
$10, 12.5% abv
Previously made from Veneto grapes, this wine is now made on Sicily like the others. An interesting green tomato/green pepper relish aroma, rich and herbal. Great match for fish that's been poached with a little fennel and vermouth.

2008 Villa Pozzi Nero d'Avola
$10, 13.5% abv
By far my favorite, and this grape has an interesting underground popularity now. I always smile when I see it on a wine list or sitting on a shelf, because it is a little sign that someone is thinking outside the box. This has that cherry pie aroma that I encounter from time to time--bright cherry aromas, mixed with a toasted pastry crust undertone. Lovely little hints of prune and mint. Smooth and fruity with a touch of tannins on the finish. I enjoyed it with a simple dinner of some grilled salsiccia, peppers, and a bit of bread.


Note: These wines were received as samples from Villa Pozzi.