Markus Wine Co.

Markus Wine co. is a side project of Borra Vineyards in Lodi, California, run by Borra winemaker Markus Niggli. Niggli is from Switzerland, and given the dizzying number of grapes that we tried over that week, I asked him over dinner if he was growing any Chasselas. The laughing answer was "no". Apparently it's not a good fit for the region, and demand is decidedly low here in the US. However, the winemaker is producing some milder, lighter, European-style whites that once again change everything that you think you know about Lodi wine.

The labels featured on this series are the result of a collaboration with Michael Leonard and the University of the Pacific in Stockton. I'm particularly fond of the pure text design of the Nativo, because that's how I'm wired. All three of these wines can be purchased from the Borra website.

2014 Markus Wine Co. Nuvola
Lodi, California
100% Gewürztraminer
$19, 13.2% abv.

Dry and herbal with touches of honey. I know that sounds odd but it is possible for a wine to have some of the aromas of honey without the sweetness. Outstanding with a tuna salad sandwich on a croissant during these mild spring days.

2014 Markus Wine Co. Nativo
Lodi, California
75% Kerner, 19% Riesling, 6% Bacchus
$19, 13.1% abv.

Hurrah! I get to try another new grape for the first time (or the first time I've logged it). Bacchus brings me to 195 on the life list, and this particular bottle was light and floral with a touch of lemony acidity. I enjoyed it with a simple appetizer of steamed shrimp, lightly seasoned.

2014 Markus Wine Co. Joey Insieme
Lodi, California
95% Torrontes, 5% Riesling
$19, 12.8% abv.

Light citrus aromas pop up with a mild body and a slightly mineral flavor. Much more depth as it warms up. My favorite out of the three, and a unique expression of the Torrontes grape. Highly recommended with a large platter of raw oysters.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Thanksgiving with Cadaretta Wines

I've given a lot of advice about Thanksgiving wines over the years, and most years I break my own rules. It's not hypocrisy, it's more about a divide between crowd pleasers and selfish enjoyment of what I'm in the mood for at that particular moment.

This year was a little different, with Julia stuck in town housesitting, much of my family traveling, and a holiday after weeks of busy work for both of us. It was an opportunity to have a simple meal for two followed by crashing on the couch. Well, I dozed off, she kept watching the movie.

I roasted the smallest turkey breast I could find (rubbed with the Slap Ya Mama Cajun spice blend), made fresh cranberry sauce, a simple spinach salad, my fantastic sweet potato soup and crescent rolls from the can. Aside from the soup, not a gourmet effort, but filling and tasty and comforting for two on a cloudy November day.

One common bit of advice for Thanksgiving wine pairing is to go with domestic products. Again, I'm all over the place with my personal preferences, but this year it worked out well to have a lineup of bottles from Washington State. I'm on track right now for tasting Cadaretta Wines every two years and this sampling did not disappoint.

2013 Cadaretta SBS
Columbia Valley, Washington
72% Sauvignon Blanc, 28% Semillon
$23, 12.8% abv.

This Bordelais white blend remains consistent with great honey and floral notes combined with firm acidity. A great wine that contributed to the flavor of the soup.

2011 Cadaretta Cabernet Sauvignon
Columbia Valley, Washington
82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot
$40, 14.4% abv.

Plum and spice with medium tannins and a long finish. I enjoy decanting this one, and while it did not pair conventionally with any of the dishes Julia far preferred it.

2011 Cadaretta Springboard
Columbia Valley, Washington
80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Petit Verdot
$50, 14.3% abv.

Tastes older than it is. Smooth and mild. Great cassis aromas and flavors, low tannins, slightly bitter finish with elements of green pepper. Another great Bordeaux blend that really hits my personal preferences in all the right places.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

DeBarge Vineyards and Winery

DeBarge Vineyards and Winery is the culimination of a series of projects headed by Dr. Raymond DeBarge, an eye surgeon in Fort Oglethorpe, Georgia. The urban winery is located in Chattanooga, Tennessee (a city right on the Georgia border) in the Southside Historic District, not too far from the campus of UT Chattanooga. The vineyards are in Northwest Georgia on Pigeon Mountain. The winery allows for people to experience winemaking without making a trip to the countryside, while the vineyards provide a bucolic background for weddings or other special events.

Dr. DeBarge has had a passion for grape growing and winemaking since the 90s, and the urban winery opened in 2012. He faced a conundrum familiar to Tennessee wine lovers: the grapes that grow best here are French-American hybrids, and the native style is sweet and strong, while the mainstream wine enthusiast goes in the opposite direction. The palates of Tennesseans are changing, and an interest in milder wine styles combined with the growing locavore movement presents a great opportunity for this winery. With a combination of traditional European varieties as well as the hybrids, there's a little something for everyone.

The first four wines come from the Georgia vineyards, while the last two are made in Chattanooga from west coast grapes. Thankfully, the bottles are not misleading at all and the back labels explain the origins. It's a refreshing contrast to the shenanigans in Texas. All of the wines sampled here are enclosed with screwcaps and most are available from the website. Two of the whites had just been bottled and were shipped as advance samples before the labels had been delivered.

NV DeBarge Chardonnooga
Chardonnel & Cayuga White
$15, 13% abv.

Humorous wine names are common in the southeast, and this one got a laugh out of me. The nose is somewhere between Chardonnay and Moscato but the flavor is very mild, dry, and has a clean finish. Some initial foxy notes but overall it is light and pleasant. I've had a lot of hybrid grapes in the past and this is by far the most elegant presentation that I've tasted. I would strongly recommend it as a Thanksgiving wine, not just for the American nature of it, but also the approachability from both wine novices and more experienced palates.

NV DeBarge Chattaboogie Blanc
Traminette, Cayuga White, Vidal Blanc, and Viognier
$18, 12.5% abv.

This is the type of musky and sweet white wine that is indicative of the region. It opens up with hints of clover and honeysuckle that bring back memories of hot summer days. While sweet, it is not cloying and comes across as refreshing with a light picnic of cold fried chicken and potato salad.

2013 DeBarge Albariño
Albariño
$18, 13% abv.

Albariño has been surprising me a lot recently, having tasted outstanding versions from Oregon and California, lands far from its Spanish home. I was excited to try this one and it did not disappoint. Intriguing lime zest aroma with very restrained citrus flavors and a gentle, mineral finish. A little bigger body than cold climate Albariño, but really quite nice and a wine that would go great with roast trout and fresh asparagus. Also a good one to bring along to your next blind tasting party just to stump everyone.

NV DeBarge Labyrinth
45% Cabernet Franc, 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Chambourcin
$27, 12.5% abv.

A little Bordeaux-style with a hybrid contribution from the Chambourcin. Lovely plum and black cherry aromas. The dark fruit profile follows through on the tongue, with firm tannins and a little tea in the background. I'd love to see this one paired with a well-roasted venison sirloin.

2009 DeBarge Cabernet Sauvignon
$25, 13.5% abv.

The grapes for this wine were sourced from Washington. Again, the Bordeaux influence is evident with this bottle. Very light with a nice whiff of green tobacco and leather. Gentle cassis flavors with mild tannins and a smooth finish. Open up for steak night and enjoy an after dinner cigar under the moonlight.

2012 DeBarge Zinfandel
Wine Club Exclusive, 17% abv.

Sourced from California, in the grand tradition of Zinfandel grapes headed to the east. This is a big wine, clocking in at alcohol levels near Port and reminiscent of some of the big Shiraz that came out of Australia in the past decade. Lots of fruit flavor but not sweet, with a focus on blackberry and chocolate flavors. It is rich with medium tannins, and I'd recommend this with soft white and bleu cheeses as a tasty dessert course.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Wines of Sud Ouest France

Bordeaux Blanc is an odd sort of critter in the wine world... It plays second fiddle to the highly prized reds, and true enthusiasts of French white wines tend to focus on Burgundy. Don't get me wrong, I've had some great Bordeaux Blanc and I'm not putting it down. However, the cost of real estate tends to inflate the prices of those bottles.

If you're looking at southwest France (Sud Ouest), there are great bargains in the Gascony region even if you might not recognize the grape names. I didn't mind, because I got to add a few obscure grapes to the life list, particulalry Arrufiac and Petit Corbu. I am now up to 193, and that 200 goal is tantalizingly within reach. Publicists, if you're having trouble promoting anything mostly unknown, let me know!

Getting back to the geography, the first two are from the Saint-Mont AOC while the second two are from the more casual Côtes de Gascogne VdP. If you want a crisp, light white wine for a summer lunch, any of these would be a great recommendation and highly affordable as well. None of these are going to break the $15 level (pre-tax), and you'll have a classy bottle on the table or on the picnic blanket.

2010 Plaimont Les Bastions Blanc
Saint-Mont, France
Proprietary blend of Arrufiac, Petit Courbu and Gros Manseng
$9, 13% abv.

Green apple and a touch of floral aromas on the nose. Crisp and bright with beautiful acidity.

2011 Plaimont Tableaux
Saint-Mont, France
80% Gros Manseng, 15% Petit Courbu, 5% Arrufiac
$14, 13% abv.

Deeper body with touches of earth and grass in addition to the bright acidity. Would be excellent with an appetizer of roast quail with lots of garlic and rosemary.

2013 Domaine du Tariquet Classic
Côtes de Gascogne, France
45% Ugni Blanc, 35% Colombard, 10% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Gros Manseng
$9, 10.5% abv.

Lots of lemon, touch of herbal notes. Tart acidity. To many this will taste like a bottle of introductory Sauvignon Blanc, but I appreciate the little complexity from the interesting blend.

2012 Domaine Chiroulet Terres Blanches
Côtes de Gascogne, France
50% Gros Manseng, 25% Ugni Blanc, 25% Sauvignon Blanc
$13, 12.5% abv.

Bright citrus character but a little smoother than the prior one. Outstanding summer sipper for hanging out in the backyard.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards

In honor of Mother's Day, how about a look at a winemaker who is also a mom? During my recent trip to Lodi, we had a stop almost in the exact middle of the week at Acquiesce Winery & Vineyards.

I got some messages from friends and colleagues while I was out there along the lines of, "Hope you can make it through all that old vine Zinfandel." Lodi is certainly famous for those old vines, deep reds, and of course the powerhouse standard grapes that go into California table wines bottled elsewhere. But there is a lot more to the story of this region, and Acquiesce is a great example. Susan Tipton had a transformative experience with a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape over a decade ago and was determined to make great Rhône-style white wines in Lodi. On top of that, she's continuing to swap out patches of Zinfandel and other grapes that are currently making money in order to graft on more white vines that won't show a profit for years to come. It's a story that I heard over and over again in the region, and one that speaks to the passion that these folks have about making quality wine.

We tried five wines with Tipton, and she presented little appetizers to go along with each one. My favorite was the Dubliner cheese topped with jasmine confit, perhaps the fanciest jelly you'll ever consume. All were served on their own individual amuse-bouche bowls or spoons, and the craftiness and attention to style can be seen throughout the tasting room with wind chimes made from wine bottles and homemade candle holders. (Speaking of the bottles, the unique shape is imported from France. That style is perhaps best known for the Sofia Coppola wines, but that glass comes from China these days.)

These wines can be purchased through the winery website.

2013 Acquiesce Picpoul Blanc
$22

There are only about 10 acres of Picpoul Blanc planted in the United States, and Tipton farms 100 vines of them. It's a fascinating grape with hints of lime curd and floral notes. A light, delicate body with a crisp and quick finish. The current vintage is, unfortunately, sold out, but keep an eye out for this one in the future.

2013 Acquiesce Grenache Blanc
$22

A little firmer body with hints of musk and honeysuckle accompanied by a tart acidity. Excellent with the goat cheese and Meyer lemon zest, and a great roast chicken wine.

2013 Acquiesce Belle Blanc
$26

A combination of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, and Viognier. Outstanding in the balance of the various elements. The nose is floral and herbal while the acidity is just perfect. It is bright and delightful and manages to capture summer in a glass. Highly recommended.

2013 Acquiesce Viognier
$23

I love a good Viognier, and this one did not disappoint. Aromas of grass and lemon, with a tart and refreshing flavor. I've always thought that this grape is a nice introduction to the earthier elements in white grapes before getting down into the funky, barnyard characteristics. Would be delicious with a cold pasta salad.

2013 Acquiesce Grenache Rosé
$20

The one non-white offering at Acquiesce is still true to the style of Southern France, and we had some amazing dry rosés while we were out there. This Grenache version shows bright notes of strawberry and watermelon with a nicely tart finish. Throw this in a bucket of ice and enjoy it beside the pool with a good book.

Note: This trip was sponsored by Lodi Wine and Snooth.

Adobe Trio

Clayhouse Wines in Paso Robles has an extensive line of wines, and I've tried a lot of them over the past four years. On the introductory level you'll find the trio of wines under the Adobe marque. While commonly associated with graphic design software, the word adobe refers to the mud wall construction popular for the past 4,000 years in various parts of the world. In a desert climate, it has the magical benefit of being cool during the day and warm at night, yet that doesn't really work in a humid region like Memphis. A true adobe building here would never stay dry (if you could even get the bricks dry in the first place) and would pretty much steam cook you during the night.

Here's a look at all three of the Clayhouse Adobe wines:

2012 Clayhouse Adobe White
Paso Robles, California
36% Viognier, 34% Grenache Blanc, 24% Sauvignon Blanc, 6% Princess
$14, 13.5% abv.

Light herbal notes with a hint of musk and just a touch of sweetness on the finish. Firm acidity and a fun pairing for chicken salad on a croissant. The Princess component of this is a familiar green seedless grape you can purchase from the supermarket.

2012 Clayhouse Adobe Pink
Paso Robles, California
39% Grenache, 34% Syrah, 27% Mourvèdre
$14, 13.5% abv.

This rosé is bright with a profile of watermelon and raspberry. Round body and a smooth finish. Great GSM blend and one that will pair well with a wide range of foods. Keep this in mind as BBQ season approaches.

2011 Clayhouse Adobe Red
Paso Robles, California
23% Zinfandel, 22% Petite Sirah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Malbec, 10% Petit Verdot, 4% Tempranillo, 3% Syrah
$14, 13.7% abv.

Big ripe plum and cherry flavors, round mouthfeel, low tannins. With so many grapes, it's difficult to discern any individual varietal characters, but it's a fun table wine to go along with a Tuesday night burger.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 Castello di Pomino Bianco

The venerable house Marchesi de Frescobaldi has been in the wine business in Tuscany for seven centuries. I've talked about the family history before--trading Michelangelo wine for paintings, ledgers that still list sales to Henry VIII, etc. There are not that many industries out there that are growing, have new companies coming into the market every year, and yet still have established brands going back so long. It also makes me wonder which American producers will still be going strong in the 28th century.

The Pomino DOC is much younger by comparison, established in the 1970s and permitting the use of traditionally French grapes in both red and white blends. This is my first exposure to this particular DOC, and I was pleased with the style. This particular wine is aged in stainless steel with a small amount held in French barriques for three months.

2012 Castello di Pomino Bianco
Pomino DOC
Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco with other unspecified white grapes
$15, 12.5% abv.

Gentle aromas of melon. The nose opens up with floral notes, while on the palate there is light white fruit flavors and with a chalky element that is enticing. Medium acidity and a soft mineral finish. Great complexity at an affordable price point. I'd recommend it along with clams and pasta with lots of garlic.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

Geyser Peak Uncensored

Geyser Peak Winery was established in California in 1880, making it one of the oldest wineries in the country and the 29th bonded winery in the state. The founder was German immigrant Augustus Quitzow, whose last name comes from a noble familiy of Brandenburg and could be an incredible Scrabble word (28 points without multipliers).

The two Uncensored wines represent a pair of multigrape blends at an affordable price point, which really goes back to the early history of California winemaking. West coast consumers of the late 19th century were not shopping based on precise percentages of Bordeaux grapes but rather what tasted good and would store well before the advent of central air conditioning.

2012 Geyser Peak Uncensored White Blend
California
Proprietary blend of Viognier, Riesling, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
$14, 13% abv.
6,200 cases made

Sauvignon Blanc really dominates this particular blend. The bottle has bright acidity with notes of grapefruit and melon and a long finish. Should be great with grilled white fish topped with a citrus salsa.

2011 Geyser Peak Uncensored Red Blend
California
Proprietary blend of Petit Verdot, Petite Sirah, Tannat, Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
$14, 13.4% abv.
26,000 cases made

What a fascinating blend of grapes, and you don't see Alicante Bouschet much these days. These grapes combine to produce a big fruit wine that has dominant notes of plum. It's a jammy, dark fruit wine with low tannins and a slightly sweet finish. Great mid-week pizza and burger wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

EccociWine of Spain

It wasn't until going back over the tech sheets later that I realized I'd just tried two grapes for the first time. The white contains Petit Manseng, an old grape from southwest France, and the red is primarily Marselan, a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache developed in 1961. This brings my life list to 180, meaning that the Doppel level of the Wine Century Club is a bit closer. There was a time when I'd try a dozen new grapes in a week, but nearly nine years later, it's a pleasant but rare surprise when I get to try something new.

Speaking of surprises, I had to keep checking to make sure that I hadn't mixed up my notes. EccociWine is based near Girona in the Catalonia region of Spain. There is a firm commitment to environmentally-responsible production, and it is Spain’s first CarbonZero certified winery. But they are not committed to local, indigenous Spanish grapes, meaning that the varieties grown there are mostly French in heritage. These are creative blends that look more like Languedoc than Northeast Spain.

(As a side note, I love that the script on the labels is nearly as indecipherable as my own chicken scratches.)

2011 Eccoci Blanco
50% Roussanne, 30% Viognier, 20% Petit Manseng
Catalonia, Spain
$20, 13.3% abv.
20,000 bottles produced

The name "Eccoci" means "here we are", and the wine itself definitely has a presence. It has a big, round body with lots of bold white fruit, yet the acidity is low without being flabby. I got scents of peach and pear with nice citrus blossom notes in the background, and just the barest touch of sweetness on the finish. It's a fascinating balance and a bottle that I think is paired best with conversation. Even after trying thousands of wines, I enjoyed talking about this one. Highly recommended.

2008 Eccomi Tinto Super Premium
Catalonia, Spain
60% Marselan, 20% Merlot 10% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petit Verdot
$30, 14% abv.
25,000 bottles produced

This wine is singular, with a name meaning "here I am". Bright red plum aromas with touches of leather and chocolate on the nose. Medium tannins with a deep black plum flavor and a touch of spice on the finish. I'd certainly recommend a bit of breathing, but once it mellows it will be a perfect wine to enjoy this winter with slow braised meats and root vegetables.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

Lodi Tasting of August

It's been nice getting to know the Lodi wine region through some recent online tastings. I admire the fact that they're willing to experiment with different grapes and combinations and are not bound down by any established rules. Through these four white wines I think you'll see some amazing creativity and exploration.

2012 Acquiesce Belle Blanc
Lodi, California
60% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussane, 10% Viognier
$24, 13.5% abv.

Such an elegant bottle and label combination. Light with honey, citrus, flowers, dry, mild, gentle finish. Excellent summer salad pairing with good mesclun greens and a sherry vinaigrette.

2012 Upstream Chardonnay
Lodi, California
100% Chardonnay
$15, 13.6% abv.

Amazing acidity, good minerality, really crisp and bright. Delicious notes of lemongrass and citrus peel. Hard to believe it's Chardonnay. This one is a killer match for Thai or Vietnamese food.

2011 St. Jorge Verdelho Seco
Lodi, California
100% Verdelho
$18, 14.8% abv.

Dusky and rich, honey flavors, long, lingering finish. One that I'd serve with a selection of aged goat cheeses.

2012 Borra Vineyards Intuition Field Blend White
Lodi, California
60% Kerner, 20% Riesling, 20% Gewürztraminer
$22, 13.3% abv.

I was really surprised to see a Kerner from California, since it's obscure even in Germany. This specimen is full of spice and dried apricot, really deep and with a note of rich white fruit. Bright acidity, full fruit flavor, yet fairly dry. Serve with your best roast chicken and a platter of red and white table grapes.


Note: These wines were provided as samples.

The Dreaming Tree Wines by Dave Matthews

When I first read the press release about wines made by the musician Dave Matthews, my first thought was not about the music but a touch of excitement about trying wines from his native South Africa. Turns out that the wines are actually from the Bear Flag Republic and winemaker Steve Reeder oversees the production.

I have to admit that while I love music, I don't listen to a lot of it, and don't inflict my peculiar tastes on friends and family. I love classic jazz and old school hip-hop. Unabashed fan of Groove Armada and Ben Folds, and I prefer the Baroque artists over the Classical or Romantic periods. Joe Jackson is an underappreciated genius. Yes, I'd like to a hear a little more Elvis Costello when I encounter a radio playing in a coffee shop, but at this point in time, we can all listen to whatever we want through our little iPod earbuds.

When it came time to pick a Dave Matthews Band album to listen to while trying these wines, I knew that I only had one person who could answer this question: devoted DMB fan, my soul sister, wine pourer from California, Miz Please Please Please herself, throw your hands together for the one and only Samantha Dugan of Samantha Sans Dosage.

She suggested 2008's Big Whiskey and the GrooGrux King. I made a pepperoni pizza from scratch (let the dough sit for five days--much better flavor!), uncorked the wines and sat down to bask in the music and wine of Dave Matthews.

I'm not going to review the album, because my musical tastes are demonstrably weird and non-mainstream, but I found it a pleasant and relaxing way to spend an hour on a Sunday afternoon. The experience may have even inspired me to check out a few other albums, though it might be a few years. I'm still working through back catalogs of Dave Brubeck projects.

2012 The Dreaming Tree Everyday White Wine
Central Coast, California
42% Gewürztraminer, 33% Riesling, 14% Albariño, 11% Viognier
$15, 12% abv.

Overripe peach, apricot, and floral aromas. Touch of sweetness, low acidity. It's a curious blend that could only happen in California or Australia, but I think that the mix works to create a pleasant and casual summer sipper. Not a great match for the pizza but would be delicious with a chicken salad sandwich or related finger food.

2011 The Dreaming Tree Crush Red Wine
North Coast, California
55% Merlot, 17% Zinfandel, 13% Petite Sirah, 8% Syrah, 7% Other
$15, 13.5% abv.

Blueberries and plums on the nose, with a touch of spice. Big, round fruit flavors with firm tannins and a long finish. A much better fit with the pizza, and at the point at which I'm typing this sentence, I'm listening to the penultimate track "Baby Blue", which is a relaxing and pleasant way to finish the meal and savor the lingering flavors of the wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Vinho Verde in August

I continue my exploration of the many varied wines of Portugal's Vinho Verde region with this pair that showed up at the house last week. Given that I'm now living so close to sources of fresh seafood, pork offal, and cured meats that require a five-language guidebook, I'm beginning to think that it's time for me to start studying authentic Portuguese cuisine.

At some point, there's going to be a dinner party invite that begins, "The first course will be eels... If that's a problem, I'm not offended if you decline, because it's only going to get more non-mainstream American after that."

As with Spain, the wines of Portugual continue to amaze me with their ability to pair with a wide range of foods, and even bargain wines like these will just get better and better depending on how much care and flavor you put into your dishes. At the very least, rich cheeses and grilled vegetables topped with sea salt will draw out wonderful tastes when paired with wines such as the two below.

2012 Quinta da Raza Grande Escolha
Minho Vinho Regional
Blend of Alvarinho & Trajadura
$13, 12.5% abv.

This is a fairly traditional Vinho Verde, a little fizzy but oddly (and refreshingly) not sweet. Tropical fruits and a little floral undertone round out the nose, while the body is crisp, dry, and one that goes well with fresh fruit and yogurt. Not suggesting this as a breakfast wine, but as a light afternoon summer snack it works well.

2012 Quinta de Gomariz Espadeiro Rosado
Ave, Vinho Verde
100% Espadeiro
$12, 11.5% abv.

Beautiful light salmon color, mild flavor of wild strawberries, bright acidity and a clean, smooth finish. And it's got some gentle bubbles to it, which I wasn't expecting. I enjoyed it with yet another homemade anchovy pizza as part of my summer project to A) get better at making pizzas and B) sweat in the kitchen. The salt of the fish and the savory elements of my dried mushroom tomato sauce came together perfectly with this wine for great balance all around.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Lobster & Wine Pairing

I recently received a package of samples from LobsterAnywhere.com, a New England supplier of Maine lobster and other regional delicacies. They have some great gift combinations available, and keep in mind that the prices include overnight shipping anywhere in the United States. I got a pair of North Atlantic tails (200g/7oz each, and not the Caribbean rock lobster tails you see in this part of the country), a pint of clam chowder, and a small key lime pie. Everything arrived still frozen, a great testament to proper packaging. The box made a trip from Lowell, MA to Memphis, TN in the dead of summer with a properly packed styrofoam container and the right amount of dry ice.

Julia and I started out with the rich and creamy chowder, which was the best I've had since visiting Boston back in 2005. The potatoes managed to remain in perfect cubes without being mushy, and there were large chunks of clam meat present. The frozen soup is shipped in a plastic pouch that can be warmed up in a pan of hot water, though I let it thaw naturally in the fridge and warmed it up on a low setting in the microwave. (And I gave my bowl a few dashes of hot sauce for good measure.)

In the past I've either steamed or grilled tails whole, but this time I decided to try the proper butterfly or piggyback preparation. Simply cut the top of the tail down to the end, crack open a bit, and gently perch the meat (still attached) on top. It not only looks elegant but elevates the meat so that it does not sit in liquid during cooking. 10 minutes at 200°C/400°F is all it took, though some prefer to baste beforehand with clarified butter, paprika, and other seasonings.

The tail was amazingly tender, sweet, and delicate. Not rubbery in the slightest, and a far milder and gentler experience than any lobster tail I've had in the past. I will also note that they arrived deveined and cleaned, and no real prep beyond splitting the shell was required on my part.

The key lime pie came from the Ever So Humble® Pie Company of Walpole, Massachusetts. A crumbly graham cracker crust with a rich filling, and just the right balance of tart and sweet. Since I don't have much of a sweet tooth, I had only intended to have a quarter of the little five-inch pie, but ended up eating half of it.

What wines to serve with such a meal? My favorite wine to pair with any sort of shellfish is Sancerre. It's great with lobster, but truly shines with oysters and scallops. Lately I've also been turned onto Alsatian Pinot Gris with shrimp, and when we're talking about a big crawfish boil, if I'm not drinking beer I like an inexpensive sparkling wine like Prosecco. In general, I want something that performs well when cold (since I'm usually the one steaming or grilling or broiling), has bright acidity, and if there's a touch of stony minerals, even better. For a clambake or any other casual "hands-on" seafood dining, skip the wine glasses and drink out of tumblers or whatever is handy. (You can also check out some prior posts on lobster rolls and shrimp grits cooked in lobster stock.)

For this particular meal I went with Italian whites. I served the wines of Mazzoni, a new partnership between the Franceschi family of Montalcino and the Terlato family of Napa.

2011 Mazzoni Pinot Grigio
Tuscany
100% Pinot Grigio
$20, 13.5% abv.

Ripe apricot aromas and flavors dominate with a big, round body. This is not one of your watery, weak Pinot Grigio bottles, but rather a fairly substantial white wine with good acidity. I found it to work well with the clam chowder, and it held up well with the black pepper and hot sauce.

2011 Mazzoni Bianco di Toscana
Tuscany
90% Vermentino, 10% Chardonnay
$20, 13% abv.

This was a more gentle wine with a light peach profile, slightly musky undertones, and a bright acidic finish. Just a little touch of minerals underneath provided some well-enjoyed depth, and overall it had the right balance of characteristics to go well with the lobster tail.

Note: These wines and the food were provided as samples.

Snooth PVA: Wines of South Africa

Immediately after the Wines of Austria tasting, we were whisked away to the Institute of Culinary Education, a cooking college in the Flatiron District of Manhattan. We were there to enjoy a tasting hosted by Wines of South Africa and a lunch prepared by Johannesburg native Chef Hugo Uys.

We started out with a sparkling blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the NV Graham Beck Brut, $18. Crisp and acidic with medium bubbles and a clean finish. I enjoyed it, but after the dozen Austrian wines sampled in the previous two hours, I was a little peckish and decided to dive into the little wooden bowl of dried fruit, nuts, and meat. And it was the best beef jerky I've ever had. Shortly thereafter, the host explained it.

In the photo it's a little hard to make out the details, but the wide flat pieces are biltong, a favorite snack of South Africa. A round roast or other large cut of tough meat is cut into strips (called tongs or tongues, but it's not actually tongue meat), marinated and air-dried. I loved it, and also enjoyed the little thin dried sausages known as droëwors. Try one of those and you'll never snap into a Slim Jim again.

I've long been fascinated by the history of South Africa (sparked in no small part by the adventure novels of Wilbur Smith), and while I have tried many wines from the country, this was my first experience getting to enjoy them with the appropriate cuisine and with folks devoted to this particular wine region.

Amuse Bouche
“South African Shot”: Peppadew relish in a parmesan cup, a guava juice shot topped off with a ginger foam

This was a pleasant little snack, just enough to wake up the palate and get us ready for the wines that followed.

2012 Thelema Sauvignon Blanc, Stellenbosch, $18: A little rough on the beginning, but it later opened up with jasmine and citrus notes. Certainly more in line with Chile and New Zealand than France.

2009 Raats Family Chenin Blanc, Coastal Region, $22: Mild and fruity with gentle floral aromas and a round body.

Appetizer
Curry Mussels: Lychees, shallots, white wine and dry sherry, in a curry emulsion

I love a good batch of mussels, and these were delicious. I would never have thought of adding lychees, but it made for a nice flavor combination.

2012 De Morgenzon Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, $15: The winemakers here play Baroque music to the vines to help them grow. Light white fruit aromas and flavors with just a little vanilla from the oak. Medium acidity and a short finish.

2009 Badenhorst Family White Blend, Coastal Region, $34: A rough edge at the beginning yields some herbal and vegetal elements in this Rhône blend of six white grapes. The winemaker made his first wine at the age of thirteen.

Entrée
Smoked Ostrich: With roasted root vegetables, gorgonzola mousse, herb port reduction, homemade sultana/apricot chutney and an oven baked spicy potato chip

Excellent ostrich, and I'll be on the lookout for some thicker steaks to try and recreate this dish in the future.

2011 Warwick Pinotage Old Bush Vines, Stellenbosch, $19: Lovely aromas of ash and earth from the Pinotage, with a flavor of red cherries and raspberry seeds. The 12% Cabernet Sauvignon should help round this one out for those that are afraid of Pinotage.

2010 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir, Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, $39: Spicy and smoky at first, giving way to aromas of tart red cherries with a thin, gentle body. Very unusual for a Pinot Noir, but I thought it worked out quite well with the ostrich.

2008 Kanonkop Paul Sauer, Stellenbosch, $42: This wine is named after a hilltop where, in the 17th century, a cannon would be fired to alert everyone that ships were entering the harbor at Cape Town. It gave everyone enough notice to load up their oxcarts with food and other trade goods so they could meet the sailors. The wine has complex aromas of green bell pepper, smoke, and leather. It's a deep and dark Bordeaux-style red made with 69% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 19% Merlot.

2010 Boekenhoutsklouf Chocolate Block, Swartland/Citrusdal, $34: Due to the popularity of this wine, it is allocated in the United States and may be difficult to find. Interesting blend of 69% Syrah, 14% Grenache Noir, 11% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cinsault and 1% Viognier. Cream and cherry aromas with, yes, a deep chocolate character. Deep yet smooth and very drinkable.

2009 Glenelly Lady May, Stellenbosch, $50: This venerable wine is made of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot in a traditional Bordeaux style. Lots of bell pepper and black cherry with underlying notes of coffee and leather. Medium tannins indicate that this one could age for another few years. Highly recommended with your favorite roasted meats.

2010 De Toren Fusion V, Stellenbosch, $45: Another Bordeaux blend, but this one is still quite young with very firm tannins and a long tannic finish. There is a cherry profile to the wine but I found it a little tight and not quite ready for consumption. Check again in three years.

Dessert
Tipsy Tart: Soaked in rooibos infused brandy, vanilla ice cream and a brandy date syrup

Sweet and savory and delicious, and the addition of rooibos was incredible.

2010 Ken Forrester T Late Harvest, Stellenbosch, $55: This 100% Chenin Blanc dessert wine was rich and golden with floral notes, honey, and a beautiful, slightly musky finish. Delicious and decadent.

Check out these other great reviews of the same tasting! Avvinare "New World Wines: South African Wines Continue to Excite Me", My Vine Spot "#SnoothPVA: South African Wine Lunch", Wine Julia "SnoothPVA: Wines of South Africa with Lunch at the Institute of Culinary Education"


Note: This trip was provided by Snooth.

Snooth PVA: il gran giro d’Italia con dodici vini bianchi

The wine tastings at the Snooth PVA weekend fell into two categories: classes and dinners. I enjoyed both. The dinners hit upon my preferred opinion that wine is food and that the two should never be separated, and encouraged more convivial conversation among my fellow writers. However, the classes provided a lot more information from a top-down format and allowed for some serious study on a specific topic. And thus on Saturday at 2:30 in the afternoon, we entered the basement of the Altman Building to attend the White Wines of Italy Master Class.

This is a tasting that I've thought a lot more about since leaving the city, and one in which I wish I could have spent more time analyzing each bottle with some wine books and dizionari nearby. Our host was the genteel Giuseppe Capuano of Vias Imports Ltd.. Despite the fact that he is from San Lazzaro di Savena in Emilia-Romagna and quite attached to the native grapes of his home region, he took us on an incredible tour of the white wines of Italy and her islands. East, west, north, south, Sicily, Sardinia... Even the German-speaking vineyards of Alto Adige/Südtirol were represented.

A restaurant would be well-advised to steal the following list to make a special wine flight dinner to celebrate the white wines of Italy. I can imagine the following going quite well with a multi-course meal, rearranged a little to ensure optimal regional food pairing.

2011 Istituto Agrario di San Michele all'Adige, Nosiola Trentino DOC, $23

The institute is an agricultural college in northern Italy focused on wine production, founded in 1874. Think about this as trying something from UC Davis. The grape is Nosiola, and it's very mild on the nose with lots of bright lemon on the palate. Great acidity and minerality, and certainly a perfect start to the tasting.

2011 Strasserhof Kerner, Valle Isarco DOC, $27

There's a good bit of German/Italian overlap in language, family names, and grapes in the far north. My first Kerner was the 2003 Klaus Zimmerling Kerner Trocken Landwein, brought back by California Girl after her 2005 vacation in Germany. This one was rich with honey, overripe peach, and a rich mineral aftertaste. Later notes of nutmeg. This used to be a popular destination for Germans in search of affordable, delicious wine before the Euro currency unification.

2011 Luisa Friuliano, Isonzo del Friuli DOC, $21

Wet stone and a mild floral note, with bright acidity. This grape used to be known as Tocai Friulano until the EU came along and the name was banned to avoid confusion with Hungarian Tokaji.

2011 Luisa Ribolla Gialla, Isonzo del Friuli DOC, $22

Somehow this was my first exposure to Ribolla Gialla, and I look forward to exploring this grape in the future. Exotic and fascinating with a nose of jasmine and orange peels, but a light and delicate body.

2011 Argillae, Orvieto DOC, $17

The name means "spirit of the soil" in Latin, and this one was a powerhouse of acidity. I found it a little harsh and bitter, but perhaps better enjoyed with food that will balance it out properly.

2011 Cataldi Madonna, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC, $17

Light and gentle with a delicate body. A little small and lost in the shuffle, but something that I'd like to serve with quail and white asparagus for a calm first course.

2011 Terredora di Paolo, Fiano di Avellino DOCG, $24

This wine is entirely soil-driven, with elements of mineral and ash, chalk, and balanced acidity. Fruit comes and goes, but geology is forever.

2011 Statti Greco, Calabria IGT, $23

Clean and fresh, with a light and mild body. I've had stronger Grecos in the past, but it's nice to see a more austere presentation.

2010 Feudi del Pisciotto Marengo Grillo, Sicilia IGT, $33

Nutty with fresh-baked cookie notes and an acidic finish. The oak gives some serious structure to this particular bottle.

2011 Nuraghe Crabioni Vermentino di Sardegna, Sardegna DOC, $21

Rustic and exotic with characteristics of flowers, nuts, and fruit. Deep, firm body and a strong mouthfeel. Everything I could have possibly wanted from a Sardinian wine.

2011 Colle dei Bardellini Pigato, Riviera Ligure di Poenente DOC, $19

My first experience with Pigato, and Greg pointed out that if you ever detect the aroma of pencil eraser in your wine, there's a 50/50 chance that it's Pigato. I wasn't really sure what to make of this particular wine (I think my bottle was a bit oxidized), but I'm holding that tasting note in my pocket to win a blind tasting in the future.

2011 Maison Anselmet Chambave Muscat, Vallée d'Aosta DOC, $27

We concluded the tasting with an odd wine from a very stubborn and independent winemaker. Only 6,000 bottles of this were made, and the result is a Muscat that has the characteristic aromas of honey and honeysuckle, but is completely dry. I think everyone was expecting sweetness and was pleasantly surprised at the flavor. I'm not sure how I would serve this (there's a perfect cheese just out of my mental grasp), but I found it to be another true delight from this master class.

Check out these other great reviews of the same tasting! The V.I.P. Table "A Regional Tour of Italian Whites", The Reverse Wine Snob "Excellent Italian Whites - Exploring the White Wines of Italy Including Two Bulk Buy Selections", Vindulge "Learning about the white wines of Italy with Snooth – one region at a time", Wine Julia "#SnoothPVA: Indigenous Varietal Italian White Wines From North to South", My Vine Spot "#SnoothPVA: White Wines of Italy"

Note: This trip was provided by Snooth.

Snooth PVA: Wines of Brasil

Over the years, I've had wines from Argentina, Australia, Austria, Belarus, Brazil, Bulgaria, Canada, Chile, France, Georgia, Germany, Greece, Hungary, India, Israel, Italy, Lebanon, Macedonia, Mexico, Moldova, Montenegro, New Zealand, Portugal, Romania, Slovenia, South Africa, Spain, Switzerland, Turkey, and the United States (cue Yakko). And of the last, I've tried wines from Arizona, Arkansas, California, Colorado, Hawaii. Illinois, Indiana, Mississippi, Missouri, New Mexico, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Oregon. Tennessee, Texas. and Washington.

The point of this is not to brag (well, maybe a little), but more to show that I've got a pretty open mind when it comes to the wine regions of the world. Some of these have been more enjoyable than others, but overall I've had more pleasant surprises than unfortunate disappointments. And thus, I was particularly excited about the tasting hosted by Wines of Brasil.

Brazil is a relative newcomer on the international wine scene. The first Portuguese settlers were in the hot and humid north, a region that was terrible for wine grapes. Proper wine production didn't begin until the turn of the last century when Italian immigrants settled the cooler, drier southern regions like Campanha on the border with Uruguay. This is still a developing wine region: we tasted wines from the past seven vintages, and while nothing was spectacular, I think that there is some great potential. I've been tasting Chilean wines since the mid-90s and find them getting better and better each year. As the winemakers dial in the proper balance of grapes, soil, and style, and find the appropriate markets, I think they'll find a way to play to their strengths. In the meantime, an amusing anecdote...

I asked our host about how often Brazilian wines show up on the wine lists of fine dining restaurants in Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. He chuckled and said, "When you are in one of those restaurants and see someone drinking Brazilian wine, that is a tourist. The Brazilians are only drinking European wines." Even with some growing interest in the beverage, the average Brazilian only consumes .33 litres of wine a year, and I've poured more than that into a single glass.

• 2010 Cave Geisse Nature - $20: Clean and crisp sparkling wine with just a little sweetness. A pleasant way to start the day of wine tasting at 9:30 in the morning.
  
• NV Casa Valduga 130 - $30
  
• 2011 Salton Virtude Chardonnay - $22
  
• 2012 Lidio Carraro Dádivas Chardonnay - $20
  
• 2009 Villagio Grando Chardonnay - $20
  
• 2007 Salton Desejo Merlot - $22: The first wine that really got my attention, with notes of mint, green herbs, tart cherry, and a little brash finish.
  
• 2009 Pizzato Reserva Merlot - $20
  
• 2009 Miolo Merlot Terroir - $24
  
• 2009 Pizzato Fausto Verve - $30: Earthy with mild cherry aromas and flavors. Gentle and well balanced, and including a little Tannat in the blend. Well worth a search, but not currently available in the US.
  
• 2006 Lidio Carraro Grande Vindima Quorum - $65
  
• 2009 Perini Qu4tro - $30
  
• 2007 Casa Valduga Villa Lobos - $39: This was one of my favorites, made in a very Bordeaux style with aromas of black cherry and green tobacco leaf. Medium tannins and a pleasant finish.
  
• 2008 Miolo Lote 43 - $30
  
• NV Aurora Carnaval Moscato Rosé - $15: More detailed notes are available from my previous tasting of this wine.
  
• At the PVA Event, I got an opportunity to try one additional wine from these guys that wasn't at the classroom tasting: 2008 Lidio Carraro Tannat Grande Vindima - $?? This was pretty memorable for the pure punch of the tannins and midnight black body. If you ever need to teach someone to recognize tannins on a wine, grab thee a flagon of Tannat and feel all of the moisture drain from your palate. I actually liked the rustic, gripping nature of this wine, and while I think food pairings would be difficult outside of pleasantly charred meats, it has a unique and fascinating character.

Check out these other great reviews of the same tasting! Wine Julia "#SnoothPVA: Wines of Brazil", My Vine Spot "#SnoothPVA: Brazilian Wines Master Class", Avvinare "Wine Countries: Brazil – Wines of Brazil Tasting At Snooth PVA", Wannabe Wino "What’s better than wine for breakfast?"

Note: This trip was provided by Snooth.