NV La Marca Prosecco

In my last post, I talked about pairing a California Zinfandel with BBQ. And in that case, I'm referring to the standard pork shoulder or ribs, smoked and served with a savory-sweet sauce. In Texas, beef is king and while we have native antipathy towards the infidels, I have to admit that brisket done well is quite good.

However, what is often missed in the various competitions and TV shows is how much smoked chicken and other goodies show up on Southern picnic tables. Steamed corn wrapped in foil, grilled summer squash, skewers of shrimp... So many of these foods cry out for a white wine, particularly one that is served cold. Here's where I like to break out Prosecco, Italy's casual, affordable sparkling wine from the north.

In addition to its role as a fun "grape soda" for the outdoor party, Prosecco is perfect for making sparkling wine cocktails like the Mimosa or Bellini. At the price, it's worth it to pick up a half case and play around with different combinations.

NV La Marca Prosecco
DOC Veneto
100% Glera
$15, 11.3% abv.

Dry and crisp with a splash of lemony acidity. Earthy and floral notes are barely present on the nose, making this wine an interesting one to sip. Tiny bubbles and good overall balance, something to be enjoyed in a bargain Prosecco.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

NV Enza Prosecco

This sparkling wine is "Extra Dry", which actually means a little sweet due to the odd relationship between French winemakers selling to British customers. What does that have to do with Italy?

Prosecco is usually crisp and dry, but like anything else, can be made in a variety of styles to meet the demands of the market. I'd imagine that the widespread popularity of Moscato (and the slightly fizzy Moscato d'Asti) has opened up the door for a little more sugar. And while I prefer my wines dry, these can be great crowd pleasers for group dinners as well as excellent introductory wines for people that are just getting into the subject. As always, I highly recommend Prosecco for both casual consumption as well as for blending in various cocktails. True, you can break out that $85 bottle of fine Champagne, but if you're going to start adding fruit juices and liqueurs, I'd stay stick to the sub $20 bottles.

This wine is made by Cantine Sacchetto, founded in the Veneto in 1915.

NV Enza Prosecco
DOC Veneto
100% Prosecco
$15, 11% abv.

A clean nose with a touch of sweetness on the palate. The wine shows loads of lemony acidity with a little apple flavor in the background and big bubbles. An excellent popcorn and potato chip wine for snacking while watching a good movie.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

NV Ogio Prosecco

I've long been a fan of Prosecco, and have tried to promote it as a casual, fun sparkling wine to enjoy in the middle of the week with dinner. Whenever I have a Prosecco on hand at a party, I ask around for a show of hands.

"Who has never opened a sparkling wine before?" If anyone is curious, I'll let them practice on the bottle. Undo the wire cage, keep it vertical, gently twist, and for the last bit just let the pressure in the bottle do all the work without spewing good wine all over the kitchen and dining room. And then it's time to show the second trick: how well this wine works with things like fried chicken, popcorn, salty potato chips, and even Buffalo wings. These are the kind of pairings that will bring about a true and vibrant wine culture in the United States, coming from the everyday treats below, not from the haute cuisine at top.

Also, in accordance with Federal Trade Commission regulations, I have to disclose that in addition to the wine, I got a neat USB carabiner (loaded with the wine info) and a pair of Ogio-branded flip-flops. Neither influenced my review of the wine.

NV Ogio Prosecco
DOC Prosecco
100% Glera
$17, 11% abv.

Initial aroma of green apple peels and just a touch of honey. There's a hint of something wild and musky in this, like overripe peach. I thought it was perfect with a nice salad of baby spinach, smoked chicken, and roasted walnuts with a light vinaigrette.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

Valdo Sparkling Wines

Couple of milestones here... I got to try a new grape (Nerello Mascalese), taking my life list to 175 unique grapes from 31 countries and 17 states in the US. This is the 1200th post on Benito's Wine Reviews, and my eighth anniversary is right around the corner. What a fascinating trip it's been...

The holidays were pretty jolly with the many bottles of bubbles around the house. It meant that pretty much any occasion with friends or family could be accompanied by a popping cork. As much fun as that was, I always prefer enjoying sparkling wines with meals, as they were intended to be consumed. Take these Valdo wines, for example.

NV Valdo Rosé Brut
Veneto & Sicily
Glera & Nerello Mascalese
$11, 12% abv.

This is a pretty hearty rosé, and the Nerello Mascalese has a powerful, fruity, Concord grape flavor. While still dry, it reminded me a lot more of a pre-mixed kir cocktail than a traditional brut rosé. Also interesting: the Prosecco (Glera) came from the Veneto while the red grapes came from Sicily. While it's definitely a bit unusual for a sparkling wine, I did find it to be fun with deep dish pizza on a cold winter Saturday.

NV Valdo Cuvée del Fondatore Prosecco Brut
Veneto
90% Glera, 10% Chardonnay
$20, 12% abv.

The Supertuscans have established the potential for blending traditionally French grapes with native Italian ones, and it's interesting to see this pop up around the rest of country. While I enjoy Prosecco as a casual sparkling wine, I do think that it benefits immensely from the structure of Chardonnay, which spent a little time in French oak. That provides a hint of vanilla underneath the honey and floral and ripe pear aromas. Overall, a very fine Prosecco and well worth checking out.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Cupcake Wines

I have tried a few Cupcake wines in the past. I was reminded of the brand recently when my mother was getting ready to host a big baby shower for my cousin. She asked my advice for wines to get for the occasion, and I wasn't terribly helpful--I spend so little time in retail shops in town that I can't really recommend something specific that's here in town. Usually I direct someone to a trusted shop in their neighborhood and put them in the hands of our city's best retailers.

Mom said, "Have you heard of Cupcake wines? I've heard they're good for parties." I think this might be the first time that Mom had asked me about a specific wine label, and I pointed out that it's not just a single location, but rather a brand that gets wine from all over the globe and labels it. Nothing wrong with that, and there are many companies doing the same thing. But from anecdotal evidence I've heard that the Cupcake wines are popular at baby showers, bridal showers, and other such hen parties. And I say that not to condemn the wines from a male perspective--each bottle must be judged on its own merits. But I'm always a fan of making wine less intimidating and easier to pronounce for the average American consumer. You don't need to be able to read the Greek alphabet or have a working knowledge of German to ask for these wines. And if we want a robust American wine market, we need brands like this.

NV Cupcake Prosecco
Prosecco D.O.C., Italy
100% Glera (Prosecco)
$14, 11.2% abv.

Crisp and refreshing with big bubbles and a splash of lemony acidity. Not the most complex Prosecco I've ever had, but it's a serviceable midday sparkling wine for casual lunches. I served it with sweet potato soup that I made for Julia, one of her favorites.

2009 Cupcake Red Velvet
California
47% Zinfandel, 29% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petite Sirah
$14, 13.5% abv.

A very interesting yet distinctively Californian blend. I love creative red mixes but this one goes in the sweeter direction. Great berry flavors and low tannins, and better cold than at room temperature. For me, I'd serve this as a dessert wine (it's really not that sweet, just my preference for drier wines). But if you're just dipping your toe in the red wine pool, this might be a good non-threatening way to start. Served with thin pork chops and roasted peppers, a rerun of this memorable meal.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

NV Villa Sandi "Il Fresco" Prosecco

In my continuing effort to encourage more sparkling wine consumption throughout the holiday season (not just in the space between 2011-12-31 11:59 pm and 2012-01-01 12:05 am), I can't neglect the affordable and fun Prosecco of northeast Italy. A classic of the Veneto region, I wish I'd started on this stuff as opposed to the really cheap $3 California bubbles Who Shall Not Be Named Here.

There's a lot of variety within the category of Prosecco, but for the novice what you're going to find is a fairly simple and tasty sparkling wine that is great with appetizers, fun with fried foods or popcorn, and is inexpensive enough to open on a Tuesday night while you're watching TV after work.

Like Cava, Prosecco represents a philosophy of bubbly as table wine: an everyday accompaniment to good food rather than something saved for an event. And there's nothing wrong with saving a special bottle for a holiday or anniversary. But there's lots of celebrating this holiday season, and no reason to wait until the last minute to let the corks fly. (Well, don't do that because it's dangerous, but you get the gist.)

NV Villa Sandi "Il Fresco" Prosecco
DOC Treviso
$13, 11% abv.
Lightly toasty aroma with a bit of lemon twist. Barely sweet, which was a surprise to me but not overwhelming. Strong acidity, so I recommend pairing this with something sweet that has a bit of fat to it, like pig candy (served as an appetizer at family Thanksgiving this year, and yes, I got to try this wine with said dish). Also keep in mind as a fun picnic wine for the spring and summer.


Note: This wine was received as a sample.

Bargain Bubbles

The New Year is right around the corner, and as such, everyone scrambles for advice on sparkling wines. A fundamental problem with giving advice here is that it takes some time and practice to really appreciate good Champagne, and good wine doesn't need to be sprayed over a crowd or hastily gulped before a kiss that you'll regret in the morning.

As I see it, there are three tiers.

Tier I: You are a Champagne aficionado but can also appreciate the occasional oddball like a Crémant de Limoux. Check out Samantha Sans Dosage or Fredric's annual 12 Days of Christmas review of sparklers. They know a lot more about the subject than I do, but more importantly get to taste a lot more in this category. (And if you're in Memphis, stop by Joe's in Midtown and ask for Michael. Tell him I sent you.) I rarely receive samples of sparkling wine, and most weeks it's all I can do to keep up with the still wine that shows up at the house.

Tier II: You want something drinkable, that might even work well with food, but is not expensive. This is where I'm going with the details below.

Tier III: You merely need something that is fizzy, contains alcohol, and may or may not be based on grapes. There are plenty of options around $4/bottle that can be purchased by the truckload, and the unscrupulous can make do with a box of Chardonnay, some sugar, and club soda.

I think both of the wines reviewed here fit nicely within Tier II. First up is an entry from California...

NV Barefoot Bubbly
Brut Cuvée Champagne
$10, 11.5% abv.
Chardonnay
Lots of crisp lemony aromas, with an undertone of lime peel. Tart, with firm acidity and big bubbles. Great in mimosas. This one is going to be easy to find anywhere, and while I didn't enjoy it as much straight, I liked it as a cocktail ingredient. If you're going to make mimosas, make sure to use orange juice without pulp in it. Otherwise you get a mess. And if you decide to incorporate elements like gin or liqueurs, keep an eye on your guests.

Of the two, I really preferred this entry from Italy, but then again, I absolutely love Prosecco.

NV Villa Sandi il Fresco Prosecco
$13, 11% abv.
Valdobbiadene region in northeast Italy
Very lemony, dry, crisp but not tart, toasty aftertaste. Smaller bubbles than the above, and better overall balance. This one was great with lunch food like sandwiches and salads--I've always been happiest with things like Prosecco and Cava that are such wonderful pairs for casual food.

In addition to the above, here are over 30 posts about sparkling wine that I've written over the years, most of which are in the under $20 category.

Note: These wines were received as samples.

Last Minute Sparkling Wine Recommendations

For those of you doing your shopping on the way to a party tonight, here's some sparkling wine recommendations. Whenever you see "NV" in my reviews, it means "non-vintage", or there's no particular year ascribed to the wine--it might be a mix of multiple vintages, or it might just be an inexpensive table wine. It should not be inferred that they are produced in the state of Nevada. Also, I rarely if ever drink proper Champagne. It's more of a cost concern than anything else, but there are loads of tasty sparklers from all over the world, including the non-Champagne regions of France.

First, here are 23 previous posts that include information on sparkling wine. Most of them are great little wines, just stay away from the Soviet Champagne of Belarus. I can still taste that abomination months later.

Second, check out Fredric Koeppel's annual 12 Days of Christmas salute to sparkling wines. He's got some great bottles there and there's very little overlap in the bubbly we've reviewed.

Now for a few of my own that have been sitting in the review queue for a while...

One that can be found nearly everywhere is the NV Yellowtail Sparkling Rosé, which runs for around $7. Beautiful light salmon color, dry and crisp with raspberry aromas and flavors. The large bubbles give it a soda mouthfeel. Not as fruity as I'd imagined, and it had a slightly bitter finish I wasn't expecting (note that I love bitter flavors, and they show up from time time in all sorts of wine). I couldn't find any information on the grapes used here, but I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed this. Sparkling rosés are a growing segment of the sparkler market, and this might be easier for you to find than some of the European bottles.

Prosecco is a longtime favorite here at BWR, and increased production in Italy and elsewhere means that there are new brands to try every year. On general principles I'd avoid the Austrian one packaged in cans and promoted by Paris Hilton. Instead, why not try something like the Italian NV Martini & Rossi Prosecco. $12, a light 10.5% abv. It's got a little orange peel aroma, light bubbles in the frizzante style, and crisp lemon and almond flavors. Great bargain bottle that's conveniently enclosed with a beer bottle cap, meaning that this should be perfect for taking to parties. (A few other Prosecco and sweet Moscato d'Asti wines are capped like this--great for BBQs or other informal gatherings.)

It's not pictured here, but I'd highly recommend anything from Domaine Ste. Michelle, particularly the Blanc de Noirs. The varieties range from dry to sweet, some blends, some single grape. These are affordable, delicious sparkling wines from Washington state, and I always keep one on hand in case I need something to kick off a dinner. The voluptuous Ste. Michelle bottles can often be found for as little as $12, which is a real steal. And of course the sparkling wines of Gruet in New Mexico will always have a special place in my heart.

What will I be drinking on New Year's Eve? The Spanish NV Segura Viudas Reserva Heredad. $25, 12% abv. Penedès region of Spain. I've had it before, but I've really been in a Cava mood lately. Plus, you've got to admire a bottle that eschews the label for a metal badge. Certainly the guys from Dethklok would approve.

I hope all of you have a happy and safe New Year, and be sure to eat your black eyed peas!

P.S. In the comments, be sure to note your bubbles of choice for ringing in the New Year. Or if you went in a different direction--say the family tradition is 6 Puttonyos Tokaji--list that as well. I think my first NYE adult beverage was a sip of peach schnapps in the late 80s.

Breakfast for Dinner

The Girlfriend requested breakfast for dinner, and I was all too happy to oblige. Specifically, she was looking for a sort of Greek omelet: spinach, lamb, and goat cheese, but she wanted something other than spinach. I love these kind of challenges, so here's the menu I created.

First off, let's look at spinach alternatives. While here in the South there are plenty of greens available, I generally substitute rapini (broccoli raab) or Swiss chard. I settled on the latter this time. Now, if you've never purchased this relative of the beet, it can look a little odd at the store. The stalks and veins are white, yellow, pink, and red, and the leaves are often wilted and droopy. I've never had problems in the past, but this time I decided to cut a half inch off the bottom of the stalks and allow capillary action to soak up some water while the leaves sat in a glass. The next morning the chard leaves were all standing at attention, but since the standard method of cooking involves getting rid of as much water as possible, I realized that I hadn't really accomplished anything.

When prepared as a side dish, I chop the stems, sautée them until soft, and then add the chopped leaves and cook those until wilted. Here I just used the leaves, wilted in a small bit of oil. A huge bunch of leaves condenses down to a very small final product--keep that in mind.

For a wine, I decided on an Italian Prosecco. The NV Cantine Maschio Prosecco Brut is a crisp, dry sparkling wine that has a nice touch of acidity but isn't overwhelming. The Girlfriend mixed hers with some orange juice for a little mimosa action. I demurred from the cocktail, but at $12 this wine would be great for brunch or bellinis or even fried chicken/BBQ: two of my favorite foods with sparkling wine. I find that generally if you can't figure out a good match for something, a sparkler or a rosé often works well.

Since I didn't have any leftover roast leg of lamb on hand, I instead chose to trim the bones off a rack of lamb and roast it. The bones and attached meat were roasted in the oven and then simmered with organic chicken stock for a few hours to create a little easy lamb stock, which after cooling went into the freezer for future use. The resulting log of meat looked much like a pork tenderloin. I dusted it with some sea salt and fresh ground pepper and then seared the little ribeye roast in a stainless steel skillet. After it was nicely browned, I threw it into a 350° oven until it reached a medium-rare internal temp of 135°. Then a rest period, followed by slicing the roast into little half-inch steaks. The end result combines the delicious flavor of lamb with the look and texture of prime rib.

Lamb ribeyes aren't an original idea; aside from having it at the Brooks recently, there's a good recipe on the Stags Leap website. On the side I made some sweet potato hash browns, and freshly sliced cantaloupe was also provided. As for the overall meal, it was a nice variation on the old steak and egg special at Waffle House. The lamb ribeyes were delicious and so easy that I can see using them for appetizers and other purposes. The omelet was one of the best I've ever had, and the sweet potatoes provided a nice touch of sweetness and less starch than your standard white potatoes.

2004 Col Sandago Prosecco

2004 Col Sandago Prosecco from the Veneto region of Italy. $15. Perfect with king crab legs, as the lemony crispness helped cut through the rich meat and savory clarified butter. Just a hint of pear and ginger on the finish.

For those who haven't discovered the joys of Prosecco, go out and buy one now. A lot of people get nervous about sparkling wines, thinking they're only for special occasions or for foods like caviar. But Proseccos are a great bargain and go well with all sorts of casual, fun foods. And though I've had some bad generic sparklers from California, I've never had a bad Prosecco. Want a better match than crab legs? How about fried calamari and a nice antipasto platter.

NV Candoni Prosecco Brut

So I was cooking dinner for the girlfriend tonight, and she had only one request: boiled artichokes with homemade mayonnaise on the side. Simple enough, but as much as I enjoy a good 'choke, I generally prefer a bit more substance on a dinner plate. So I decided to do lightly beer battered shrimp (some decent 16 count specimens I shelled myself), a schmattering of French fries for the hell of it, and some sourdough and clementines to balance everything out.

What wine would go best with such an odd meal? I felt a strong pull towards Prosecco. A combinations of fried foods and fresh mayonnaise really begs for something crisp and acidic to cut through the grease (though my shrimp were not greasy, thank you very much). I settled on the NV Candoni Prosecco Brut. That site doesn't give much information, but at least you can see the unique label. It's actually painted directly on the glass of the bottle, and depicts an Etruscan fresco from Tarquinia, Italy, in the fifth century BC. The girlfriend teaches ancient history, so I scored a few bonus points there.

It is indeed crisp, with medium acidity and is very refreshing (as I often do, I save at least a glass' worth to sample while writing here on the blog). Around $15, so a good bargain to boot. It was a perfect fit for the meal, and I appreciated the fact that it had a wire cage and traditional champagne cork. There are some proseccos that come with these terrible little corks--they're rock solid composite corks like a champagne cork, but there's only about an eighth of an inch above the top of the bottle, not enough to grasp. You can use a corkscrew, but I destroyed a rabbit-style corkscrew that way.

One more amusing note... While I was still doing the prep work before the arrival of the girlfriend, I started making the homemade mayonnaise. I've done this a dozen times before, though I always alter the recipe a bit to try new things. This time I used safflower oil (and used the remaining oil for frying the shrimp--gets nice and hot without smoking). So I'm building the mayo with white wine vinegar and fresh lemon juice and Dijon mustard, and drizzling in the safflower oil, and wondering why in the hell the damned sauce isn't thickening up.

And then I realize that I forgot the egg yolk. What an idiot.

Fortunately, I read this great French cookbook back when I was in high school. I can't remember the name or the author, but the whole point was to make French cuisine fun and non-threatening. From that cookbook, I made my first cream of X soup (in that case, asparagus), as well as my first fresh pasta. There was a whole chapter on "Kitchen First Aid", and there were lots of tricks on how to fix screwed up sauces. In particular, it mentioned what to do with a curdled Bearnaise sauce: start another emulsion in a separate pot, and then slowly introduce the curdled sauce until it comes together. So in a separate bowl, I mixed an egg yolk with a little more vinegar and mustard, got my emulsion going, and then added in what was effectively a terribly oily vinaigrette. The end result: a perfectly delicious fresh mayonnaise, one that paired wonderfully with the boiled artichokes. And it went well with the fries; a few trips to the Netherlands convinced me of that delectable combination.