Davis Bynum Wines

Well, my "day" off stretched into a week, but I wasn't really taking a break from wine writing. In that time I attended three online tastings, submitted four articles for other publications, and caught up on receipts and invoices. Add to that the time spent picking up shipments of samples, photographing and organizing them, clearing out the empties (the neighbors are constantly baffled), and it was one busy week in the life of your humble correspondent.

Time to get back on schedule with a pleasant pair from Sonoma.

Davis Bynum was a reporter for the San Francisco Chronicle in 1951 when he bought some Petite Sirah from Robert Mondavi. Twenty years later he would become well known as the first winemaker to produce single vineyard Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, a subregion now famous for the style.

2012 Davis Bynum River West Chardonnay
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County
100% Chardonnay
$30, 14.5% abv.

Pleasantly crisp with a balanced touch of oak. Bright acidity and flavors of overripe peach with a rounder, slightly buttery finish. Should be great with grilled quail and German potato salad this summer.

2012 Davis Bynum Jane's Vineayrd Pinot Noir
Russian River Valley, Sonoma County
100% Pinot Noir
$40, 14.5% abv.

Classic California Pinot Noir with a gentle profile of wild strawberries and mild tannins. Light hints of earth and spice in the background. Set out a platter of Spanish cheeses, olives, and salumi and enjoy a quiet evening snack.

Note: These wines were provided as samples for review.

2012 Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel

Summer is here, but it doesn't mean that you have to pack away the red wines quite yet. The classic pairing for the BBQ is California Zinfandel, though I've got a lot of other thoughts on the matter. However, sometimes traditions are there for a reason, and it's a style that works well with both flame and smoke applied to meat outdoors. (The classic grilling vs. barbecue argument that is reaching levels of conflict not seen since the Thirty Years' War. While I understand the distinction, I have no problem with the generic term BBQ as applied to food cooked outside involving fire.)

I appreciate the combination when the food is served indoors. If I'm outside during a hot Memphis summer, I prefer iced tea or a light white or dry rosé served well-chilled. At a recent cookout I was sipping Vinho Verde with smoked brisket, because sometimes, it's just too damned hot to be drinking red wine with dinner out in the sun.

This particular bottle of Sonoma Zin comes from Rancho Zabaco, who offer four different bottles with varying levels of specific grape origin.

2012 Rancho Zabaco Zinfandel
Sonoma, California
93% Zinfandel, 7% Petite Sirah
$15, 14.88% abv.

Classic aromas of black plum and leather. Even without decanting the wine shows mild tannins, a round mouthfeel, and a short finish. Good balance with great dark fruit flavors that should hold up well against that slow-smoked pork and molasses-based sauce.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample for review.

CrossBarn Wines

CrossBarn Winery was founded about a decade ago in Sonoma by winemaker Paul Hobbs, who has had a long career in the wine industry as a winemaker and consultant. Grapes are sourced from around Sonoma to create a Pinot Noir, a Cabernet Sauvignon, and the two wines featured below.

Both of the wines I received are enclosed with convenient screwcaps. With the summer picnic, BBQ, and party season, I find myself reaching for screwcap bottles when I'm headed out of the house. True, I keep an emergency corkscrew in the glove compartment, but it's so much easier just to pass the bottle to the host or hostess and not have to worry about an opener.

2012 CrossBarn Chardonnay
Sonoma Coast
$25, 14.1% abv.

80% fermentation in stainless steel, 20% fermentation in neutral French oak. This yields a wine that is pretty bright and tart. Vibrant ripe peach aromas dominate with lots of white fruit on the palate. Bold acidity and a crisp finish. I found it to be a fun match with spicy blackened catfish.

2012 CrossBarn Rosé of Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast
$18, 12.5% abv.

This wine followed the same 80/20 fermentation pattern as the above. I love a dry rosé, and Pinot Noir often produces some of the best. This one retains an elegant and demure French style, with mild flavors and an overall profile of wild strawberries. Strongly recommended with chicken salad sandwiches and mild cheeses during a picnic.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Dry Creek Rosé

We're enjoying an unusually cool May here in Memphis, but it's still warm enough to break out the dry rosé. This lineup of Sonoma pinks come from Dry Creek Valley, a region I had the pleasure of visiting in 2009.

A good dry rosé is the perfect pairing for summer, whether you're talking about a picnic or a barbecue or dinner on the deck with friends. Don't know what your host is serving for dinner? Bring a dry rosé. Even if it's not a perfect match for any of the dishes, it will still be fun to sip while everyone is milling around.

When I'm fixing a multi-course meal, I'll generally start with the rosé and then figure out what would work best with that particular wine. Sometimes it's a salad and sometimes it's the seafood course, but I'll often find myself going back to it later in the meal as a refreshing treat.

The first of these is emphatically not a White Zinfandel. It is a dry rosé that happens to be made from Zinfandel grapes, and should not be confused with the super-sweet product that comprises about 10% of all wine sales in the United States.

NV Pedroncelli Dry Rosé of Zinfandel
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
100% Zinfandel
$12, 13.9% abv.
1,800 Cases Made

This is a fairly deep red for a rosé, with bright raspberry aromas and flavors. Firm body with a bold and fruity finish. A little on the tart side. Recommended for the lover of California reds that is interested in branching out into lighter wines. This could hold up well with a big antipasto platter with lots of cured meats.

2012 Mauritson Rosé
Rockpile Vineyard, Sonoma County
40% Cabernet Franc, 35% Malbec, 25% Merlot
$19, 13.5% abv.
297 Cases Made

Here's a fascinating mix of Bordeaux varieties, and you don't see a lot of Cabernet Franc in rosé. This one has a softer profile with aromas of strawberry and a touch of watermelon. Mild and refreshing with balanced acidity, and I would suggest pairing this one with seared tuna topped with a mango salsa.

2012 Kokomo Pauline's Vineyard Grenache Rosé
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
100% Grenache
13.1% abv.
628 Cases Made

This is the most delicate of the three, and my favorite with a nice pale pink color that looks beautiful in sunlight. While restrained the dominant aroma is of red cherry, but there's a hint of ash and earth in the background. Mild acidity and a light body lead to a gentle finish.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

2010 Wine Guerrilla Releases

Wine Guerrilla produces some amazing Sonoma Zinfandel. Not only do the individual wines have their own unique characters, but I really love the label artwork by Sean Colgin. In previous reviews I've gone into more detail about the artwork, and I still admire the overall aesthetic as well as the little double dots in the typeface. A label shouldn't be your primary deciding factor when buying a wine, but I always appreciate it when a winery puts forth the extra effort and makes their product beautiful.

The Wine Guerrilla wines are made in small quantities, but if you get a chance to try them you won't be disappointed. And it's a lot of fun to serve three or four wines made from the same grape and let your guests see how different they can be.

2010 Wine Guerrilla Mounts Vineyard - Cypress Block Zinfandel
Dry Creek Valley
95% Zinfandel, 5% Petite Sirah
$35, 15% abv.
300 Cases Made
Blueberries and spice dominate the first sniff, with an undertone of black cherry. Very mild body with a light and delicate finish.

2010 Wine Guerrilla Monte Rosso Vineyard Block E44 Zinfandel
Sonoma Valley
$42, 15% abv.
200 Cases Made
The nose has a lot of deep cassis and blackberry aromas. Dark fruit flavors, low tannins, but a big, round body. Long finish.

2010 Wine Guerrilla Conte Vineyard Zinfandel
Russian River Valley
Field blend of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Alicante Bouschet, Grenache, and Carignane.
$35, 15.6% abv.
120 Cases Made
This has an initial profile of blackberries and plum with a big fruit flavor and a spicy, tart raspberry finish. I appreciate a properly made field blend, and this is a great California mix. Highly recommended.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Tiny Wine Olympics with TastingRoom.com

I've got a lineup of six bottles representing five countries and... two languages.

OK, maybe it's not quite as diverse as the 2012 Olympic Games (no Chinese table tennis win, no surprise Canadian upset in the women's modern pentathlon), but it is a neat little tasting kit from the folks at TastingRoom.com. The selection they sent me is called the Wines of the World Super Flight.

I really enjoy these samplers, and each 50 mL sip is just enough to get a general idea about the particular wine (though they do now offer a Wines by the Glass option that involves 100 mL bottles). I've had several of these kits in the past, but one of my favorites was when it was used in an online tasting with fellow winebloggers. But the real application for these is as gifts, and that's where the Super Flight option comes into play. More on that in a bit, so let's see our competitors for tonight's Lilliputian tasting:

2011 Old Coach Road Sauvignon Blanc
Nelson, New Zealand
13.5% abv.

Lime peel and touch of grapefruit, crisp and just tart enough to be interesting. Long finish of grapefruit peel. Recommended with grilled scallops and an Asian slaw.

2010 Spring Seed Wine Co. "Four O'Clock" Chardonnay
McLaren Vale, Australia
$18, 13.0% abv.

Rich lemon meringue pie aroma and flavor, firm acidity and a bright, brassy mouthfeel. Citrus flavors with hints of overripe peach. I absolutely love the old seed catalog artwork on the label, which is another neat thing about these bottles--getting to see the full label in miniature form.

2009 Stickybeak Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast, California
$15, 14.3% abv.

Ripe wild strawberry aromas and flavors, blending toward raspberry on the finish. Light and mild with a short finish. I think this would have been a really good pairing with my recent veal chops with muscadine grapes.

2009 Il Cuore "The Heart" Zinfandel
Mendocino County, California
$16, 15.3% abv.

Black cherry and an earthy, woody nose. Spicy dark fruit flavors with surprisingly mild tannins, a bold fruit profile, and a mild finish. Great California Zinfandel that would be good at the Thanksgiving table, and certainly one that would be pleasant to sip on a cold winter afternoon.

2008 La Montesa Rioja Red Blend
Rioja, Spain
$18, 14% abv.

Red cherry and bacon fat with a touch of ash. Medium tannins and a tart, ripe cherry flavor with a long finish. Slightly nutty aftertaste. I'm a big fan of Rioja, and this doesn't disappoint. When this flavor profile comes around, I think lamb is the only real option.

2008 Urraca Malbec
Mendoza, Argentina
$20, 14.8% abv.

Plum and white pepper with a hint of tobacco. Rich dark plum flavors with an earthy undertone and a long finish. I'm thinking slow braised oxtails with caramelized onions and steamed broccolini. I have future plans for this wine, but how can I do that with just a drop left in the 50 mL bottle?

This tasting kit came with the "Super Flight" option, which includes a gift card with a code that lets you pick your two favorites from the flight so that you can receive full size bottles. I went with the Chardonnay and Malbec, which should arrive in a few days. These are pretty good deals for gifts, though at first I thought it meant that I just got two extra tiny bottles. And when you buy this category, you'll need to kick in an extra $13 for shipping, but the end total is still pretty reasonable. Check out the website for an ever-growing list of flights and themes.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

2010 Gary Farrell Sauvignon Blanc

When I toured a lot of wineries in Sonoma back in 2009, I didn't try a lot of Sauvignon Blanc. Lots of Zinfandel and other great grapes, but the region does produce some really wonderful representatives of this variety. For example, this lovely bottle recently showed up at the house...

2010 Gary Farrell Sauvignon Blanc
Redwood Ranch, Sonoma County
100% Sauvignon Blanc
$25, 14.1% abv.

Bright apricot, round body with low acidity and a mellow, dark finish. Just the right amount of time in oak to soften the edges and add a hint of vanilla. The winery employs Burgundian techniques to a Bordeaux grape, which is a great combination. There's not a hint of grapefruit or peel or anything New World, and the wine has a long and dark finish.

As I first sipped it, I thought that it would be great with seafood. It doesn't have the Sancerre minerality that would make it incredible with shellfish, but with something like salmon I figured it would work out. But first...

The winery was founded in 1982 by Gary Farrell, and is located in the Russian River Valley. Half of their production involves Pinot Noir in the $40-60 range, though they also make a series of Chardonnays. That explains the emphasis on Burgundy production methods, and the outlier Sauvignon Blanc shows how that wine can be bent in such a fascinating way to emulate a totally different region.

I happened to have a day off in the middle of the week and chose to build a proper square meal for lunch. Grilled salmon with roasted red peppers, seasoned quinoa, and a caprese salad using aromatic Thai basil.

I used a little Chilean citrus sea salt and black pepper on the salmon, and the peppers were just roasted in a skillet with a little olive oil. I flavored the quinoa with chicken broth, oregano, and thyme. Everything paired wonderfully with the wine, and the quinoa brought out some earthy tones that I had not fully appreciated at first.

Note: This wine was received as a sample.

2009 The Federalist Dueling Pistols

On July 11, 1804, Vice President Aaron Burr shot former Secretary of the Treasury Alexander Hamilton in a duel. Hamilton died the next day. Despite what you think about the venom of contemporary politics, events like this are thankfully rare, like when...

Congressman Preston Brooks of South Carolina had been in a duel with a future Texas Senator, and due to the injury, had to walk with a cane. In 1856, he got aggravated when Senator Charles Sumner of Massachusetts insulted another South Carolina politician over the issue of slavery. Brooks was so furious that he delivered a savage beating to Sumner with his gutta-percha cane on the Senate floor, and the poor Senator took three years to recover from the injuries. Brooks became something of a folk hero in the South, and such tensions culminated in the Civil War.

I've never consumed wine while angry or in a bad mood, and think that it's better to think of positive things while sipping on fermented grapes. So far I have never entered into a duel or beaten a Senator with a cane, so I think my track record is good.

2009 The Federalist Dueling Pistols
Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma
50% Zinfandel, 50% Syrah
$35, 15% abv.

During my visits to various Sonoma wineries in 2009, I fell in love with Dry Valley and the many different approaches to Zinfandel in such a small area. This particular blend is deep and meaty with aromas of blackberries and bacon fat and a touch of spice. Firm tannins and a big dark blackberry fruit profile with a long, rich finish. Later as it breathes, there's a slight toasty aroma that contributes to a wonderful dark berry pie flavor. Graceful aging so far, but it could probably go another couple of years safely. While you should probably serve this with a joint of mutton or some other 19th century source of indigestion, I found it to be delightful with a rare roasted ribeye topped with a Chicago steak seasoning blend.


Note: This wine was received as a sample.

TasteLive with Benziger Pinot Noir

Last week I joined other winebloggers around the country to attend a virtual TasteLive event with Rodrigo Soto, Vice President of Winemaking for Benziger. In this online tasting, he showcased four of his high-end Pinot Noirs. Glancing back over my notes I see that in the past three years I've tried over two dozen different wines from Benziger, and yet somehow they still manage to surprise me.

These are all fairly small production wines, but you should be able to order them from the links below. These are all showing well now but should be amazing in a few years.

2009 Signaterra Pinot Noir
San Remo Vineyard
Russian River Valley
Sustainable
$49, 14.5% abv.
693 cases produced
The first Pinot Noir of the evening was tart and crispy with an overall profile of overripe strawberries and a touch of cream on the finish. As it breathes, there is more of a cranberry nose and flavor.

2009 Signaterra Pinot Noir
Bella Luna Vineyard
Russian River Valley
$49, 13.8% abv.
1,291 cases produced
My preferred bottle of the two Signaterras, this one was smooth and mellow with touches of plum and leather, deep and meaty. It has a short and delicate finish that makes you crave the next sip.

2009 Benziger de Coelo Pinot Noir
Quintus Vineyard
Sonoma Coast
Biodynamic
$75, 13% abv.
475 cases produced
Smooth and light with gentle strawberry notes, delicate, brighter than the previous two wines. Still pretty young tasting, and I'd be interested to see how it matures. Fun side note: if you google Quintus and Benziger, you get the British musician and conductor Quintus Benziger.

2009 Benziger de Coelo Pinot Noir
Terra Neuma Vineyard
Sonoma Coast
Biodynamic
$75, 13% abv.
465 cases produced
Far and away my favorite of the tasting, and one of the best Pinot Noirs I've had in ages. Red cherry initial nose but with an earthy depth and a hint of mushrooms. On the palate I got raspberry seeds and stewed fruit, just wonderful. It made me crave very rare rack of lamb with just a little rosemary. Highly recommended.


Note: These wines were received as samples.

Wine Guerrilla Zinfandels

Wine Guerrilla is a company that produces Zinfandel with grapes sourced from various vineyards throughout Sonoma County. There are eight different bottles in the current range, priced from $12-35. Why make eight different Zinfandels? There's a surprising amount of variety within a relatively small area and with the judicious blending of Petite Sirah or other red grapes, a good winemaker can make a unique wine. When I visited Sonoma last year I was amazed to taste, say three Zinfandels at one winery, drive a mile, and try three very different Zinfandels at the neighboring winery.

If you're interested in how these little subregions of Sonoma differ from one another, it would be worthwhile to work through these wines. You'll get a little tour of the region under the direction of a single winemaking philosophy. I got to try two:

The 2008 Russian River Valley, $18, 16.5% abv. 86% Zinfandel from MacMurray Ranch and 14% Petite Sirah from Forchini's Russian River Ranch. A big, bold red with strong black cherry aromas and a Port-like character. Tart with lots of overripe berry flavors. As it breathes and opens up over the course of a few hours, it softens and has a rounder mouthfeel.

The 2008 Adel's Vineyard Dry Creek Valley is a smaller run with 210 cases made. $30, 16.3% abv. 100% Zinfandel. Much more complex with vegetal notes, a touch of chocolate, and a brambly aspect. On the palate are wild strawberries, more chocolate, and just a slightly bitter finish with mouth-drying tannins.

For higher alcohol, fruit-forward wines like these I'd recommend roast lamb, venison, or another strongly-flavored meat with a rich sauce.


Note: These wines were received as samples from Wine Guerrilla.

Rued Wines Redux

Several months ago I reviewed a trio of wines from Rued Vineyards of Healdsburg, California. Recently I got the opportunity to try two more bottles from this Sonoma-area winery.

2006 Rued Zinfandel from the Dry Creek Valley, $25, 14.9% abv.
Spicy blackberry, deep and aromatic with hints of smoke and cedar. The blackberry flavor carries through, but it's really ripe and tart, with strong tannins and a long finish. Good choice if you're looking for a big California Zin; pair it with something strong like heavily seasoned pork or flank steak.

2007 Rued Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, $35, 14.3% abv.
Overripe strawberries with just a hint of banana in the background--slightly reminiscent of a Cru Beaujolais, even though we're talking about different grapes. While light and delicate in color this is a full-bodied Pinot Noir with firm tannins and an assertive finish. Lingering elements of strawberry and plum. I think it would be incredible with roast duck.

Whenever I sample wines, I try them straight without the external influences of food, toothpaste, or other potentially conflicting elements. And then I try them along with a meal, even if it's not a traditional pairing. Here the food ended up being burgers... but not just a sack of detritus from a fast food joint. I made 6 oz. patties out of high-quality beef, griddled them to medium while toasting the buttered buns, and served them with aged Vermont cheddar and fresh mesclun greens. Some homemade baked beans incorporating blackstrap molasses, Chinese five spice powder and Dijon mustard really brought out certain elements of the Zinfandel.

Neither of these wines are what I'd call a "pizza and burger" wine, but even something like the humble hamburger can be crafted with skill and care into a delicious meal, and a great wine will only amplify the experience.


In accordance with FTC regulations, I received this wine as a sample.

Where's Benito?

This is the view outside my window here in scenic San Rafael, California... Halfway between San Francisco and Sonoma. Over the next two days I'll be visiting local wineries (Sonoma, Healdsburg, Windsor, etc.) that specialize in organic/green winemaking, and will report on these wineries over the next couple of months, taking a day each week to focus on a different producer.

It's interesting to be in an internationally recognized wine region... I've visited vineyards in other parts of the US (Arkansas and New Mexico come to mind), and I've glimpsed them from the train in Italy, but this will be my first, direct exposure to the glories of NoCal viticulture. Stay tuned!

My stay here is sponsored by the Four Points by Sheraton hotel here in San Rafael. As a good Southern boy my instinctual reaction to hospitality is to offer to mow the grass, cook dinner, or help with the laundry, but for a trip like this I'm willing to sit back and accept the generosity. It's convenient, far enough form San Francisco to avoid the traffic but close enough if you want to see the city, and of course it's a great jumping off point for the nearby wine regions. If you're going to be in the area, consider this hotel, and tell 'em Benito sent you.