Green Winemaking Tour: Gundlach Bundschu

I've tried hard not to pick favorites when writing about this Sonoma wine tour, but my final visit of the trip ended up being one of the most rewarding. Mere hours before I was scheduled to fly out of SFO, I zipped over to Gundlach Bundschu.

Sonoma kept surprising me with its natural beauty, and this was no exception. This little valley managed to take you out of the real world for a short time. I even turned off my cell phone and just sat on the trunk of the car for a while, taking in the gorgeous scenery. My grandfather used to do this on our long trips--we'd pull over and turn off the engine, or take a break from a hike to sit on a cliff for a while in pure silence. I didn't appreciate it much as a child, but now I understand why these moments are important in today's ever busier and noisier world.

There's no way I could do justice to the 150-year history of this winery in this review, but I'll note that they survived not only Prohibition but also the loss of a million gallons of wine during the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. Despite the long history, the current generation of this family winery has embraced all sorts of new approaches to wine. Jeff Bundschu was not only co-founder of the 90s-era Wine Brats movement, but has also embraced wine blogs such as his recent video interview with friend and fellow wineblogger Hardy Wallace of Dirty South Wine.

Marketing Director Susan Sueiro was kind enough to answer a few of my questions, such as the identity of the little dog that wandered into my photo. That's Cartucho, Spanish for cartridge. Sueiro elaborated, "He is a Chihuahua mix and the loyal shadow of Pedro Garcia, an assistant supervisor of our vineyard crew, named for the quick, erratic paths he takes through the vineyards. He's out there every day with the guys, assisting the barn owls with gopher eradication and, I can personally attest, doing his best to chase away any women that dare approach."

On the green winemaking front, this winery goes to incredible lengths. They are able to reclaim up to 70% of the water used on the property, which is a major issue in water-strapped California. A combination of man-made ponds and natural wetlands complement careful water management strategies. There are other unique structures, like solar powered fans on the property that prevent frost damage as harvest approaches.

Speaking of solar power, there are two arrays on the property that provide a total of 110 kilowatts of power and account for the majority of the winery's electricity needs. Of the 80kW array, Sueiro notes, "Sadly, we ripped out a young block of perfect Dijon 117 Pinot Noir to put that in."

Like some of the other wineries I visited, Gundlach Bundschu is a little off the beaten path but definitely worth the time for a visit. Again, allow yourself some time, bring a picnic, and enjoy the beauty, peace, and quiet.

As a dry rosé fanatic and one who was trying to limit the number of bottles I'd be bringing home, I had to choose the 2007 Gundlach Bundschu Tempranillo Rosé which was uncorked for a recent dinner party (this wine was served during the appetizer course and enjoyed with the salad). $22, 14.5% abv. Apricot, rose petals, raspberries, lemon. Bright and refreshing, like a nice pink lemonade. Not the fake stuff pumped out of some factory in New Jersey, but take homemade lemonade and add a dash of puréed raspberries or strawberries, maybe even a bit of cranberry juice.

Wines Sampled at the Vineyard

For more details and ordering information, check out the Gundlach Bundschu website.

2006 Chardonnay Rhinefarm. Light pear, flowers, lightly buttery, touch of toast.

2006 Pinot Noir Rhinefarm. Earthy, ripe strawberries, nice acidity, tart and crisp.

2005 Tempranillo Rhinefarm. Earthy, touch of barn, light, low tannins, short finish. Bright raspberry flavors.

2006 Merlot Rhinefarm. Round, cherry, black plum.

2005 Mountain Cuvée Rhinefarm. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc. Jam, blueberries, blackberries. My favorite of the tasting, highly recommended.

2006 Zinfandel Rhinefarm. Leather, pepper, ash, bacon.

2006 Syrah. Black cherry, black pepper, very nice and begging for grilled meat.

2006 Cabernet Franc Rhinefarm. Deep berries, peppery, lingering tannins.

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. Black plum, meaty, cinnamon, toasty, chocolate.

2005 Vintage Reserve. Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Deep, inky wine with black currant and jam aromas. Each year for the Vintage Reserve, a a different artist is chosen for the label. In this release, RK Rowell was chosen. During the same 2005 season that saw great grapes for Gundlach Bundschu, Rowell lost his home in Hurricane Katrina and temporarily relocated to Memphis. (It all comes full circle, right?) His work Stompin’ Tchoupitoulas was selected by Gundlach Bundschu for the label of the 2005 Vintage Reserve.

Green Winemaking Tour: Simi

When I checked with local wine expert Mike Whitfield about wineries to visit in Sonoma, he strongly suggested Simi. Mike's advice has never led me wrong when it comes to wine, and because it opened about an hour before other wineries in the area, Simi was my first stop on the Sonoma tour.

Founded in 1876 by Tuscan immigrants Giuseppe and Pietro Simi, this winery is a true legend of Sonoma. There's not that many wineries you can point to as strong producers before Prohibition that are still widely represented throughout the US today. Simi follows sustainable winemaking practices and responsible agriculture. As part of their commitment to the wine and food culture of Sonoma, they host a bi-annual festival known as Forage that highlights local foods alongside the well-crafted Simi wines.

After the tasting I took a moment to relax outside by the fountain and take some notes. For someone used to the deciduous forests of the Southeast, it's fascinating to be around redwoods. That's the barrel room in the background, and the tasting room is directly to the right. In addition to tours, the winery plays host to weddings, picnics, and other related events.

The fountain looked familiar... Back in 2007 I reviewed a wine book from the mid-1970s called The Treasury of American Wines by Nathan Chroman. It's an overview of American wineries at the time, and it's a fascinating read. On page 148, as part of a section on Simi, there's a picture of then owner Russell Green sitting on the edge of the fountain. Green took over after the 66-year run of Giuseppe's daughter Isabelle Simi, who assumed responsibility of the winery at the age of 18 following the deaths of her father and uncle.

There's a lot to see and do at Simi, and as with many of my visits I could have spent a week there. They're a well-respected winery with a long history, yet there's still a friendly, personal aspect to the interactions you have with the employees, many of whom have been there for a decade or more. Just like walking into someones house for the first time, it's pretty easy to tell when the people love being there.

Wines Sampled at the Vineyard

For more details and ordering information, check out the Simi website.

2006 Sauvignon Blanc. Just a bit of citrus peel, smooth and refreshing. Very restrained without being too mild.

2006 Alexander Valley Chardonnay. Butter and vanilla, caramel, just a little popcorn.

2006 Pinot Gris. Ash and hay, lemon, clean finish with a firm structure. Fuller body than a lot of Pinot Gris.

2006 Los Carneros Chardonnay. Hint of smoke, apple and lemon flavors, tangy finish.

2006 Russian River Chardonnay. Full of tropical fruits, honey, lemon, mango, passion fruit. Really incredible.

2006 Dry Creek Zinfandel. Red raspberry, seed aromas. Light and mild.

2006 Landslide Cabernet Sauvignon. Named after the effects the Sonoma Mountain had on the soil during its volcano phase. Ginger, spice, earthy, clay. I could waste an entire afternoon with this wine. Definitely my favorite of the lineup, highly recommended.

2004 Alexander Valley Reserve. The flagship wine for Simi. Hints of vanilla with medium tannins, restrained dark fruit flavors and outstanding balance.

Green Winemaking Tour: Benziger

Another side trip on my Sonoma tour felt a little more like part of The Lord of the Rings than "Take Exit 15 and turn right". But the trusty GPS led me through back roads, hills and dales, and delivered me safely at Benziger.

That's B-E-N-Z-I-G-E-R. It often gets misspelled or mispronounced as "BenZINGer", and also gets confused with the giant Beringer. I think they ought to quote Destiny's Child on the back label:

Say my name, say my name
You actin' kinda shady
Ain't callin me baby
Better say my name

This winery is tucked away in the hills of Sonoma Mountain and has an impressive commitment to green winemaking. Check out the solar panels on the parking lot lights. But that's not just window dressing, the environmental consideration is present in far less visible forms, such as massive water reclamation and use of biodiesel for farm equipment.

Likewise, all of the family-run winery's products fall into three categories: Certified Sustainable, Organic, or Biodynamic. The three-tier system is due to a process of growth and development since the founding in 1980, and in 2000 they became the first Certified Biodynamic winery in Sonoma County.

If you're planning a visit to Benziger, I'd suggest allowing for a full afternoon. As mentioned earlier, it's a little off the beaten path, but once you get there the winery provides a wide array of tours and activities. Due to time constraints I only scratched the surface, but one of the options that looked really fun was the tram tour. I saw whole families arriving to tour the vineyards, though they also offer options for the serious wine lover as well. For instance, the primary tasting room is integrated into the gift shop and has room for lots of people at the bar. However, if you'd prefer to taste the biodynamic and higher-end selections, then for a little extra you can retire to a separate, quieter room for a more focused wine-tasting experience. (The wines listed below, except for the Carneros Chardonnay, were all tasted in the latter room.)

When I got back home, I tried the 2007 Benziger Carneros Chardonnay, $15, 14% abv. This is a full-bodied, voluptuous and smooth California Chardonnay. I think someone once compared this style to Marilyn Monroe. Lots of apricot and pear, with a little tangy grapefruit finish.

I served it with a pasta dish made from various leftovers. Get everything ready in advance and this is done in ten minutes. Boil water and start the angel hair pasta. Sauté diced onion and garlic until clear, add in diced rotisserie chicken, chopped red kale, cherry tomatoes, and rosemary. Throw in a half cup of the pasta water to help wilt the kale. Once the pasta is ready, drain it and throw the pasta in the skillet with everything else, stir it around some, and add a dash of wine vinegar or sherry vinegar. That's it! (Variation: Skip the tomatoes, rosemary, and vinegar, and substitute snow peas, mushrooms, and soy sauce, and you now have an Asian noodle dish instead.)

Wines Sampled at the Vineyard

For more details and ordering information, check out the Benziger website.

2007 Sauvignon Blanc. Stone Farm. Organic, farmed by viticulture students. Grass and lemon, grapefruit and spice, stainless steel fermentation.

2005 Chardonnay San Giacomo Reserve. Oak, butter, caramel, bit of popcorn.

2006 Pinot Noir de Coelo. Biodynamic. Touch of strawberry, smooth as silk. Quintus Vineyard.

2005 Benziger Reserve Merlot. Cherry, pepper, restrained.

2005 Benziger Cabernet Sauvignon, Stone Farm Vineyards. Plum, black pepper, slight tannins.

2006 Puma Springs Cabernet Sauvignon. Dry Creek. Lots of cherry, bright flavors, light tannins.

2005 Oonapais Sonoma Mountain Red. Name comes from the Miwok name for Sonoma Mountain, sacred to the tribe. Lots of obsidian in the soil. Tomato leaf, green bell pepper, dark plum flavors, very Bordeaux-like. My favorite of the tasting, highly recommended.

2005 Tribute. Flagship wine, and the 2001 was the first Certified Biodynamic wine in California. Mild cherry nose, touch of ash, very balanced.

2005 Joaquin's Inferno. Zinfandel, named after the vineyard manager's complaints about farming high up on the hill, out of reach of mechanized equipment and on a steep slope. Plum, spice, lovely balance.

2003 Dragonsleaf Vineyard and Summer Ranch Port. Full blackbery jam aromas, but a rather mild flavor for a fortified wine.

Green Winemaking Tour: Cline

One of the wineries that was on my "must see" list while I was in Sonoma was Cline Cellars, and this was due in large part to that red truck in the picture, parked in front of the vineyard. While Red Truck has been sold off from the main Cline operations, it was my first introduction to the winery, and the wines were fun to take to family gatherings where the crowd was perhaps more familiar with antique vehicles than red wine. It was an approachable, enjoyable wine at a good price. I haven't had a bottle in years, but I still appreciate its role as an excellent gateway wine.

The winery was founded by Fred Cline in 1982 but in Oakley, California. In 1991, Fred relocated the operations to Sonoma, site of the facility pictured here. The focus is primarily on Rhône grapes and Zinfandel, and I'm glad to see them growing things like Carignane and Roussanne. There's more to Southern French grapes than just 15 different bottlings of Syrah.

In one of the odd conflicts that can arise over the various meanings and philosophies of various green movements (and public/private certifications), Cline developed its own program known as Green String. It fits in well with similar methods of sustainable agriculture: all natural farming methods, use of sheep to trim the weeds, ethical integration with the surrounding community, etc. The website includes more information on topics such as irrigation and cover crops.

Cline was an interesting winery to visit, because it's a large operation but you don't just stroll into one monolithic building. The tasting room, pictured above, is modeled on an old farmhouse and has a porch that wraps around the building. There are ponds and walking paths and other buildings hidden among the trees, and I doubt I saw 10% of the property. So while there are the facilities to accommodate large groups or weddings, it's also possible to enjoy your visit on a smaller, more individual scale. I arrived a bit early and spent a peaceful half hour relaxing on the porch, going over my notes from the previous day.

I brought home a bottle of the 2008 Mourvèdre Rosé. $15, 13% abv. You don't often see this grape by itself, but in a rosé to boot? I couldn't pass it up, and deliberately didn't taste it at the winery so I'd have a surprise when I got home. It's got a plum aroma, with hints of cranberry. Crisp and acidic, with a tart finish. It's a fuller bodied pink wine, and works pretty well for lunch if you've got something like a roast beef sandwich.

Wines Sampled at the Vineyard

Further details and ordering information can be found at the Cline Website.

2007 Pinot Gris. Touch of Chardonnay. Apricot and peach, floral, more body, more punch than I usually see in this grape.

2007 Viognier. Various northern California vineyards. Musky, peach, and pear.

2007 Los Carneros Viognier. Very delicate, touch of herbal flavor.

2007 Cashmere. Rhône-style Grenache/Syrah/Mourvèdre blend, and part of the proceeds go to a breast cancer charity ($20,000 donated in 2008). Developed as a natural pairing for poultry, such as Thanksgiving dinner. Smoky, touch of blackberry, smooth and mild. My favorite of the tasting.

2007 Mourvèdre Ancient Vines. Firm aroma, full vegetal, earth, barnyard.

2007 Ancient Vines Zinfandel. Black cherry, raspberry, mild spice flavors.

2007 Heritage Zinfandel. Contra Costa. Nice spice and light berry flavors.

Green Winemaking Tour: Mazzocco

While I was running around Sonoma, I didn't have a set schedule or plan. I picked a few places ahead of time and then fell upon most of the rest, trying to keep with the theme of green winemaking. In the latter category would be Mazzocco. I knew that Fredric had mentioned this winery a few times, and as it was close to Ridge I was already in the neighborhood. I pulled my rental Buick into the parking lot and prepared myself for some Zinfandel.

Mazzocco isn't Certified Organic or biodynamic, but they do practice sustainable winemaking and follow many of the ethics supported by the other wineries I visited while on this trip. I really love the fact that they encourage birds of prey to settle in the area as a natural control for rodents. I'll take owls and hawks over cats any day of the week. And while no one mentioned it or made a big deal out of it, I appreciated the xeriscape design of the area around the tasting room (see the photo below). For instance, when I go to New Mexico I'd much rather see a rock garden with cactus than a lush lawn. If you really need that thick green patch of earth, move someplace like Memphis where, without any watering or fertilizing, the grass is so strong that you can throw soup bones out there and the lawn will digest them before the dogs can get them.

Founded in 1984, this Dry Creek winery is run by Ken & Diane Wilson with winemaker Antoine Favero. Although it's a bit newer than other vineyards I visited, some of the vines go back fifty years. They produce 150,000 cases each year, with bottles that range from $30-150. I would strongly recommend trying one of their wines if it's available in your area, at whichever price point is comfortable for you.

Charlotte, who was running the tasting room that day, had a lovely accent and as a linguistics fan I had to ask where she was from. "Austria," she replied. "Ah, Österreich!" I exclaimed. It's been my experience that Austrians appreciate hearing the native name of their country, the "Eastern Kingdom". "Ja, Österreich...", she continued, with the lovely Viennese pronunciation. My German is rusty and I'm afflicted with a guttural Schleswig-Holstein accent, but it's nice to get a chance to speak it once in a while.

If I learned one important lesson at Mazzocco, it was that Zinfandel is an extremely versatile grape when handled properly. Looking back over my posts for the past few years, I've noticed that I haven't tried a lot of Zin lately. At some point I got bored with high alcohol, thick, jammy Zins. Those wines have their place, but they become difficult to pair with food and can blast away the flavor of other wines on the table. In Dry Creek, I discovered that Zinfandel can be light, even refreshing at times. It's a good lesson in examining your wine habits and giving a grape a second chance.

The following wines are almost entirely Zinfandel, with a splash of Petite Sirah.

Wines Sampled at the Vineyard

Further details and ordering information can be found at the Mazzocco website.

2006 Lytton. Bright red cherry aromas, light, refreshing, creamy finish.

2006 Stone. Cream and black cherry, touches of seeds and skins for deeper flavor.

2006 Warm Springs. Earth and spice, blackberry flavors stand out.

2006 Warm Springs Reserve. Blueberry, touch of jam, roast coffee, touch of toast.

2006 Smith Orchard Reserve. Dry and restrained, touch of tea, chocolate and cherries, made me think about Sachertorte.

2006 West Dry Creek Reserve. Baked bread, dried cherries.

2006 Pony Reserve. Very light, more cherries and cream.

2006 Juan Rodriguez. Very light and delicate, soft cherry flavors in the background.

2006 Kenneth Cole. Just a hint of tannins here, with beautiful red fruit flavors of cherry and strawberry.

2006 Antoine Phillippe. Beautiful plum and spice aromas, medium body with a long finish. My favorite of the tasting, and highly recommended. At $120, it's a reminder that small production, higher price wines aren't just about hype and popularity.

Green Winemaking Tour: Rodney Strong

First, a quick note. Tracy Rickman is an Auburn University doctoral student studying wine blogs. A few months ago I participated in a conference call along with other wine bloggers, and I got a chance to meet her when she joined us for my Burns Night dinner. She's a wonderful person and it's been great working with her since the beginning of the year.

As part of her research, she has created an online Wine Blog Survey and is looking for readers of wine blogs to answer a few questions. If you get a free ten minutes and feel like helping out with an interesting project, follow that link and answer the questions. Research like this will be vital in the coming years as blogs and other new media become a bigger and bigger part of the wine journalism scene.

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Rodney Strong was one of the bigger places I visited in Sonoma, and was on the opposite end of the spectrum from the little farmhouses I'd seen. It's a large, modern building with big fountains out front, ample parking, and spacious guest facilities. For instance, check out Rob Cockerham's visit for a story about a combination wine and chocolate tasting.

Founded in 1959 by Rodney Strong (a professional ballet dancer who saw a better future in the wine business), the winery has grown considerably over the past fifty years. From humble beginnings the company has emerged with a slick look and a large portfolio of wines. In the self tour, you're able to take your time and read the displays about the history of the winery while looking out over large, industrial-size steel tanks and oak barrels. While it's not certified organic, the winery employs various green technologies and is committed to sustainable viticulture.

One particular area of pride is the massive 766 kW solar energy installation, the largest in the wine industry. It provides clean electricity for the winery operations, and is part of a continuing plan to become carbon neutral. Follow that link and you can watch a video about the Rodney Strong solar project.

If you're visiting Rodney Strong, it's pretty easy to find and doesn't require any wild trips through dusty back roads. And if you've got the time, you can walk across the parking lot to taste sparkling wines at J Vineyards and Winery. Unfortunately, I did not visit J--Rodney Strong was my last stop of the day, and at some point you have to realize the limitations of the human palate.

Wines Sampled at the Vineyard

More details and ordering information for these wines can be found at the company website.

2006 Reserve Chardonnay. Mineral, light fruit, touch of pear.

2007 Estate Chalk Hill Chardonnay. Yellow apples, butter, and lots of oak.

2006 Reserve Pinot Noir. Overripe strawberries, touch of tannins, firm finish.

2007 Estate Pinot Noir. More acidity than the Reserve, lighter, seems like a great lunch wine for something like grilled salmon.

2005 Alexander's Crown Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Green bell pepper and tobacco aroma, smooth and peppery, full mouthfeel. My favorite of the tasting, recommended.

2006 Alder Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Black cherry dominates, medium tannins.

2006 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Very delicate, with berry aromas. Made on a much smaller scale.

2005 Meritage. Very Bordeaux-like, with lots of berry and vegetal complexity. Using all five red Bordeaux grapes, there's a lot going on with this wine.

Green Winemaking Tour: Preston

When I got back from Sonoma, lots of people asked me about my experiences out there, and I'd give a quick rundown followed by a cryptic sentence: "At one vineyard, I was ready to renounce all worldly possessions, throw on some work boots, and become a farmer." That place was Preston of Dry Creek.

It's a bit off the beaten path. Were it not for the reassuring chirps of the GPS I might have given up after the tiny bridges and one lane roads, but eventually I found myself in heaven. Growing up in the city and suburbs, you see these fairytale images of farms, with cows and goats and dozens of different vegetables growing all on the same couple of acres. Then you visit a real farm, and it's just cotton as far as the eye can see, or corn, or wheat... Now, that's the way that modern farming works, and I've got a lot of family growing those crops that keep this nation clothed and fed. But that pastoral image gets shattered, and you forget about it until visiting a place like Preston. There were sheep grazing between the vines, chickens here and there, lots of vegetables, cherry trees, apple trees, peach trees... they even grow a little wheat, and grind it on site where it's blended into some of the whole-wheat breads made at the main house which, of course, features an old stone hearth oven.

Preston is not only Certified Organic for the grapes; it also extends to the olives, fruits, and vegetables grown on the property. Some of their organic products are available online, but others are just available for sale to visitors. And even though I'm more of a dog person, I took a moment to hang out in the courtyard with the vineyard cats, who really didn't give a damn about my 1800-mile journey from Memphis. The staff at the winery, on the other hand, were some of the warmest and friendliest that I met while I was out in Sonoma.

Preston was a real eye-opener in terms of all the different crops that could be grown organically on the same small patch of earth, but it's also notable in being a company that intentionally lowered its production to focus on a higher quality, more sustainable product. Preston has been in operation since the mid 70s, but ten years ago they went from making 25,000 cases a year to only 8,000, and distribution scaled back as well. (For the record, I don't think their wines are currently available in the Memphis market.) This move coincided with a renewed focus on organic winemaking, and the approach spread to all aspects of the farm. Right before my visit, the local newspaper had just published a story about Preston. Fortunately the article is available at The Press-Democrat site, and yes, it features video of the sheep grazing among the vines.

If you're in the area, Preston is certainly worth a visit. Bring a picnic lunch, give yourself time to take the tour and then relax for a bit. And follow the instructions on the door: don't let the cats into the tasting room.

Wines Sampled at the Vineyard

Further details and ordering information for these wines can be found at the Preston website.

2007 Madame Preston. A Rhône-style white blend of Rousanne, Viognier, and Marsanne. Lovely floral and peach aromas on this wine, and I'm really kicking myself for not bringing any back home with me.

2007 Barbera. Black cherry, black pepper, earthy and mild. Not quite the Italian expression of the grape, but great in its own unique way.

2007 Zinfandel, made with a touch of Petite Sirah. Wild and fruit forward, fascinating.

2006 L. Preston Red Blend. Another interesting Rhône-style blend, this one made from Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignane, and Cinsault. This was a beautifully complex wine, full of earth and minerals and spice, with background elements of black cherries and plums. This was my favorite of the tasting, and is highly recommended.

Green Winemaking Tour: Coppola

While in Sonoma, I visited all types of wineries, everything from tiny Mom & Pop vineyards to massive operations able to handle tour buses and large groups. One of the larger and more well-known wineries in the area is the subject of today's Green Winemaking report...

Coppola has two winemaking facilities, one in Napa (formerly Niebaum-Coppola, now Rubicon Estate) and the second is in Sonoma. Called Rosso & Bianco, this Geyserville property is a member of the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance. While Rosso & Bianco is not Certified Organic, the CSWA advances a series of green ethics regarding responsible use of the soil, fair treatment of workers, and engagement with the surrounding community.

The facility was under major renovation during my visit (improvements including a restaurant are underway), so my access was limited. But I did enjoy the bar-style tasting room, where I sat on a stool and looked up at a collection of memorabilia from various Coppola films, including the famous hat worn by Robert Duvall in Apocalypse Now.

There are lots of bottles available for tasting at the winery, though over the years I've tried and written about many of them. I stuck to the few that were unfamiliar to me, though up on the shelf they did have a bottle of Carmine, the 3 liter wine in a jug that retails for $175. (Sorry, it was not available for sampling.) It's an interesting bottle with a story behind it involving young Francis attempting to carry a jug of wine with a pencil threaded through the finger loop. The pencil snapped and the wine crashed to the floor, and young Francis went without cannoli that night. The wine is sold with a pencil tied to the loop. In a creative nod to sustainability, there are refill events during which you can have the Carmine bottle refilled with this special edition red blend.

I wanted to highlight an interesting Coppola selection that's just recently hit the market. The 2007 Coppola Alicante Bouschet is made in Lodi, California. $19, a delightful 13.5% abv. Pure Alicante Bouschet, a French hybrid of Grenache and Petit Bouschet (the latter a cross between Teinturier du Cher and Aramon). There's a lot of this grown in Europe and the US, but you rarely see it in a single grape wine.

As a fellow blogger and Captain of the Dirty South Mothership has said about certain bottles, this wine brings the funk! It doesn't smell bad, but it's got a prominent aroma to it, and the tasting notes from around the web are all over the place. Here's what I got: snapping a green sasasfras stick, steamed artichoke and asparagus. Once it breathes, berry aromas tend to dominate, but those enchanting vegetal characteristics are still present. The flavor is oddly light, with cherry tones and a very short finish. Don't get me wrong, I'm in love with this wine for its alluring nose. I could smell this wine for days, and I did--the last glassful stuck around for almost a week. It's just such a pleasure to try a wine that's not simply cherry or vanilla.

Wines Sampled at the Vineyard:

2007 Francis Coppola Reserve Viognier, Russian River Valley. Peach and pear aromas, floral. Grassy, herbal notes, with a slightly firm aftertaste.

2007 Francis Coppola Reserve Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast. Strawberry dominates, with a smooth, light, and refreshing flavor profile.

2006 Director's Cut Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley. Vegetal, with a touch of bell pepper on top of the black cherry. Bordeaux inspired but with California fruit-forward characteristics.

2006 Francis Coppola Reserve Syrah, Dry Creek Valley. 96% Syrah with a 4% splash of Viognier, a classic combination. Blackberry and pepper aromas with just a touch of lilacs. Firm tannins but a smooth finish. My favorite of the tasting, and highly recommended.

Green Winemaking Tour: Ridge

While I was puttering around the Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma County, I had a list of places I should check out, and I allowed myself some time for discovery. I was driving down a little two-lane road and saw a sign for Ridge. I had to stop, pull over, and confirm that this was the Ridge, specifically the western operation. One of the legends of Sonoma wine history, and I basically tripped over it.

I was a bit early, but I marked the location on my map and came back a couple of hours later. This proved to be a wise decision, as I got to take a tour of the facility with a pair of lovely young women from Springfield, Missouri, led by Ridge Winemaker John Olney.

We walked through the whole process, starting with the Lytton Springs vineyards where the wine is blended "in the field", i.e. grapes are planted in a certain ratio, harvested, and made into wine, rather than gathering the separate varieties and mixing after the juice is pressed or the wine is made. This is a wonderful Old World technique that has been developed over decades at Ridge, and the results are spectacular. I asked Olney about the different ripening schedules of the various grapes, and it turns out that they harvest when there's an ideal balance in sugar levels between the Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and other grapes. Some have more sugar, some have less, but they've learned to plant a harmonious proportion that produces a great wine.

It's often easy to spot organic vineyards. Conventional ones have a lot of bare dirt between plants and rows (look at the far background of this photo), and organic ones have lots of native flora (the foreground of this photo). Ridge is just now getting its Organic Certification, but has been using sustainable methods for some time. We toured the barrel room, where stacks of Missouri oak barrels reach heights of 30-40 feet. It's nice and cool in the barrel room, making it a popular spot during the summer months.

What was my favorite part of the tour, even including a look at a library of bottles going back three decades, all set in the glorious Bauhaus style using my beloved Optima? Meeting the winery dog, a loving Rhodesian Ridgeback who doesn't have a ridge. She was a sweet dog and it was fun to scratch her head while drinking wine. Since much of my own wine consumption is done in close proximity to my own dogs at home, it marked a special point in the trip.

Once I got home, I dug around in the cellar and pulled out a Ridge that had been hiding for a while. This is from the vineyards east of the area I visited, and is a Bordeaux-style blend than a Zinfandel blends I sampled at the winery, but I was still excited to open it. The 2000 Ridge Santa Cruz Mountains is from the Monte Bello Vineyards and is comprised of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot. Green bell pepper, leather, spice, touch of coffee and cherry. Complex, yet smooth as silk. It's a fascinating wine that will go with any well-prepared red meat you can cook, but itt's almost better after dinner, when you can relax and appreciate it while winding down. From my experience, Ridge wines tend to age fairly well under less-than-ideal circumstances, and if you're in a smaller wine shop looking for hidden treasures, Ridge bottles are generally a good bet.

You can stop by at either of their properties to visit and taste, but check the link for times and dates.

Wines Sampled at the Vineyard

More detailed tasting notes, prices, and online ordering information can be found at the Ridge website.

2006 Chardonnay - Santa Cruz Mountains Estate. Jasmine, floral, mineral. Restrained and delicious.

2005 Buchignani Ranch. 96% Zinfandel and 4% Carignane. Plum aromas and a touch of ash. Lovely.

2006 Pagani Ranch. 88% Zinfandel, 7% Alicante Bouschet, 3% Petite Sirah, and 2% Carignane. Nice touch of spice, with elements of raw bacon. A good meaty wine that begs for lamb, and my favorite of the tasting. Highly recommended.

2006 Lytton Springs. 80% Zinfandel, 16% Petite Sirah, 4% Carignane. A bit vegetal, with black cherry aromas and a hint of spice.

2006 Dusi Ranch. 100% Zinfandel. Red apple, cherry, plum, and cinnamon. Stock up on this for Thanksgiving.

2007 Geyserville. 58% Zinfandel, 22% Carignane, 18% Petite Sirah, and 2% Mataro (Mourvèdre). Bright and crisp. Tart raspberry profile, lots of plucky flavor here.

2007 Three Valleys. 76% Zinfandel, 8% Petite Sirah, 7% Syrah, and 6% Grenache. Fruit forward, with a firm strawberry jam aroma and flavor.

Green Winemaking Tour: Quivira

During my recent visit to California, my focus was on environmentally-friendly winemaking. Vineyards can be USDA Certified Organic, Certified Biodynamic, an individual or other private program may be followed, or the winery may simply use sustainable methods without the paperwork. While there are arguments about the benefits and differences between these various philosophies, all have the same goal: to produce wine with fewer negative impacts on the environment.

One of my first stops provided me with great insight on the whole concept. Quivira Vineyards is located in the Dry Creek Valley. As an independent operation they've been making wine since 1987, but the property has been used for growing wine grapes since the 1960s. I spoke to winemaker Steven Canter about his winemaking methods, his philosophy, and about the land.

He explained that green winemaking is more than just avoiding pesticides, it's a holistic approach to agriculture. Using what's on the land and building a balanced ecosystem, but also extending that philosophy to include topics like pay and health care for the grape pickers and others that work at the vineyard. It's about not being a drain on the surrounding community in terms of pulling resources, but rather building a self-sustaining system that improves and benefits the area. For instance, instead of artificial fertilizers, chickens eat weeds and bugs, and the composted manure is used to help grow vines. And this natural, nitrogen-rich fertilizer isn't trucked from halfway across the country--it's right on the property.

Since I'm not from the area, I had a lot of questions about the local wildlife and its impact on the grapes. Canter said that deer sometimes nip the buds off vines in the spring, and rabbits occasionally chew through driplines, but that there's little significant impact from the wild animals. It's a beautiful area, nestled between the hills and mountains. With the peace and quiet, reliance on traditional farming methods, and tender care of the land, it's easy to forget where you are. Or when you are for that matter; a lot of these green winemaking techniques were the standard for agriculture for millennia and are being rediscovered by the present generation.

Quivira is Certified Biodynamic, meaning that they go a step beyond organic. Factors such as rhythm of the seasons and natural fertilizers come into play; indeed, the methods for making compost read more like recipes than a chemistry textbook. Canter pointed out that while this is the way they feel they can best make wine and take care of the land, he doesn't think that such methods should be forced on anyone. It may be easy to feel like you've got to tiptoe around the organic movement like vegetarians at a BBQ, but these are good folks doing amazing things with the land they farm, and working the land in such a way as to preserve it for future generations.

I can't thank Canter enough for his patient explanation of this worldview, which proved invaluable for the remainder of my trip. If you're in the Healdsburg/Dry Creek area, visit Quivira and be amazed.

Wines Sampled

Due to the number of wines tasted on this trip, the notes will be brief. Further tasting notes, ordering information, and prices can be found at Quivira's website.

2007 Quivira Sauvignon Blanc - Barrel Complete. Partial use of acacia wood barrels, which is unusual. Creamy, vanilla, hint of citrus. Balanced and smooth, a nice change of pace if, like me, you've been drinking a lot of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. This was my favorite of the tasting, and is highly recommended.

2006 Quivira Zinfandel - Dry Creek Valley. From 50 year old vines. Plum, earthy, tasted like it would go exceptionally well with wild game like venison.

2006 Quivira Mourvèdre - Wine Creek Ranch. Touch of berries and ash, very rustic. Tasting grapes like this on their own help you understand Rhone-style blends so much better.

2006 Quivira Syrah - Wine Creek Ranch. Blueberry and bacon notes. Food-friendly wine that ought to work with a wide range of dishes.

2006 Quivira Petite Sirah - Wine Creek Ranch. Medium tannins, touch of tea, lovely black cherry aromas and flavors. Petite Sirah grows well in this area, and is often mixed into Zinfandel in small quantities.

Note: For the next couple of months, my Monday posts will focus on this topic, with each post highlighting a specific winery. And thanks again to the Four Points by Sheraton of San Rafael for sponsoring my stay in the area.