Book Review: The Initiates: A Comic Artist and a Wine Artisan Exchange Jobs

The world of Franco-Belgian comics or bandes dessinées would have seemed odd to most Americans 10-15 years ago, but now American adults are lapping up graphic novels like Maus, American Splendor, The Road to Perdition, Scott Pilgrim, and many others. There's a long tradition in France and Francophone Belgium of comics read by all ages, though some are targeted specifically at children or adults (Barbarella was originally a racy French comic from Jean-Claude Forest). And it's important to note that just because a comic is targeted at adults does not mean that it's pornographic or naughty; my beloved American Splendor is mostly about the late Harvey Pekar complaining about life in Cleveland and dealing with cancer and a dead-end job working as a file clerk. It's not the kind of thing that's going to inspire a little kid to draw grumpy old men in the margins of his schoolwork.

The Initiates: A Comic Artist and a Wine Artisan Exchange Jobs
Original Title: Les ignorants: Récit d'une initiation croisée
Étienne Davodeau
English Translation by Joe Johnson
$30
NBM Publishing, 272 pp.

The French title is a little different, referring to ignorants and their story of a cross initiation. The book covers the story of a comic artist Étienne Davodeau befriending a Loire winemaker named Richard Leroy. A lot of the press about this book talks about the two switching roles, but that's not entirely true. Rather, they get to know a lot about each other's work, and while Davodeau is able to put in some real work in the vineyard and winery, Leroy is mostly a spectator to the world of art and printing. That's not a dig against the winemaker--a novice may not be the best grape picker, but it takes a lot of training to do watercolors or run a commercial printing press.

Throughout the course of the story, which covers most of a year, the two teach each other about their passions, and an appendix lists the books and wines that they swapped with each other. The artwork is gorgeous, though entirely grayscale. Yet even in shades of grays and blacks, the artist is able to convey sunshine and perfectly ripened grapes and the odd wine stain on a tablecloth. Likewise, Leroy does an admirable job of explaining complex wine terms and nuances to someone that's never thought a lot about the subject.

It makes for a pleasant afternoon read, and I enjoyed it with a few non-French wines. The translation is quite good and conveyed in easy, colloquial English (I've read many horrible translations throughout the years and can't stand them, but this was beautiful). Highly recommended if you get the opportunity to read it.

Note: This book was received as a sample.

2011 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Chardonnay

I was first introduced to the wines of Gary Farrell Winery when I tried the Sauvignon Blanc last year. I realize that a lot of my posts start out that way this year, but I'm finding more and more that instead of sampling a new and unknown-to-me winery, I'm getting to revisit an old friend.

This is a very enjoyable problem to face on my end, but I hope that it does not become dull for my readers. However, I do like to link the older posts, because each time I try a new grape or new winery, I tend to go into a lot of detail. For those of you that love the rambling digressions into history, you can easily read it. For others, a lean and easy review.

This particular Chardonnay was sourced from eight different vineyards in the Russian River Valley: Westside Farms Vineyard, Bacigalupi (Goddard Ranch), Pellegrini (Olivet Lane Vineyard), Rochioli Vineyard, Allen Vineyard, Martinelli (Parnell Ranch), Bowland (Lazy W Vineyard), McIntyre Star Creek Vineyard. Each batch of grapes was selected to bring about an overall balance of elements in the finished product.

2011 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
100% Chardonnay
$35, 14.1%
5,122 cases made

The wine spent 7 months in 40% new French oak, lending a gentle floral profile. I get notes of lemon and tamarind with a little jasmine underneath. Gentle, round body yet the acidity is still present. The flavors are slightly creamy from the malolactic fermentation and the wine has a pleasant, lingering finish. It is reminiscent of Burgundy and Pouilly-Fuissé more than California.

I tried this wine on its own, but I found myself craving old school French cooking, particularly paté and terrines--something with lots of rich and savory ingredients, served at room temperature, and savored with the perfect bottle.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample.

Lodi Tasting of August

It's been nice getting to know the Lodi wine region through some recent online tastings. I admire the fact that they're willing to experiment with different grapes and combinations and are not bound down by any established rules. Through these four white wines I think you'll see some amazing creativity and exploration.

2012 Acquiesce Belle Blanc
Lodi, California
60% Grenache Blanc, 30% Roussane, 10% Viognier
$24, 13.5% abv.

Such an elegant bottle and label combination. Light with honey, citrus, flowers, dry, mild, gentle finish. Excellent summer salad pairing with good mesclun greens and a sherry vinaigrette.

2012 Upstream Chardonnay
Lodi, California
100% Chardonnay
$15, 13.6% abv.

Amazing acidity, good minerality, really crisp and bright. Delicious notes of lemongrass and citrus peel. Hard to believe it's Chardonnay. This one is a killer match for Thai or Vietnamese food.

2011 St. Jorge Verdelho Seco
Lodi, California
100% Verdelho
$18, 14.8% abv.

Dusky and rich, honey flavors, long, lingering finish. One that I'd serve with a selection of aged goat cheeses.

2012 Borra Vineyards Intuition Field Blend White
Lodi, California
60% Kerner, 20% Riesling, 20% Gewürztraminer
$22, 13.3% abv.

I was really surprised to see a Kerner from California, since it's obscure even in Germany. This specimen is full of spice and dried apricot, really deep and with a note of rich white fruit. Bright acidity, full fruit flavor, yet fairly dry. Serve with your best roast chicken and a platter of red and white table grapes.


Note: These wines were provided as samples.

August Wines of Germany

It's been a busy month here in the River City, and I'm still a dozen wines behind in my reviews... But a pleasant regular visitor showed up: my quarterly mailing from Wines of Germany. Every three months my doorstep is blessed with a pair of interesting wines from Deutschland. Mostly Riesling, but there have been some other grapes represented in the past.

2011 C.H. Berres Erdener Treppchen Riesling Kabinett
100% Riesling
Mosel
$20, 11% abv.

Dominant aroma of ripe green apple, but with lower acidity than I was expecting. Instead it is smooth and mellow, with a refreshing character particularly on a hot August afternoon. Normally I'd suggest some complicated dish to serve this with, but a ham and Swiss on rye with a side of potato salad proved to be perfect with this particular bottle.

2009 Hans Lang Vom Bunten Schiefer Riesling Dry
100% Riesling
Rheingau
$22, 12.5% abv.

The second wine was far more complex, with a nose featuring lemon verbena, petrol, and citrus peel. Crisp and clean with a medium length finish. I certainly enjoyed sipping and swirling this for a while, and found that it worked out well with a dish of Peking-style pork and fried rice.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

The Dreaming Tree Wines by Dave Matthews

When I first read the press release about wines made by the musician Dave Matthews, my first thought was not about the music but a touch of excitement about trying wines from his native South Africa. Turns out that the wines are actually from the Bear Flag Republic and winemaker Steve Reeder oversees the production.

I have to admit that while I love music, I don't listen to a lot of it, and don't inflict my peculiar tastes on friends and family. I love classic jazz and old school hip-hop. Unabashed fan of Groove Armada and Ben Folds, and I prefer the Baroque artists over the Classical or Romantic periods. Joe Jackson is an underappreciated genius. Yes, I'd like to a hear a little more Elvis Costello when I encounter a radio playing in a coffee shop, but at this point in time, we can all listen to whatever we want through our little iPod earbuds.

When it came time to pick a Dave Matthews Band album to listen to while trying these wines, I knew that I only had one person who could answer this question: devoted DMB fan, my soul sister, wine pourer from California, Miz Please Please Please herself, throw your hands together for the one and only Samantha Dugan of Samantha Sans Dosage.

She suggested 2008's Big Whiskey and the GrooGrux King. I made a pepperoni pizza from scratch (let the dough sit for five days--much better flavor!), uncorked the wines and sat down to bask in the music and wine of Dave Matthews.

I'm not going to review the album, because my musical tastes are demonstrably weird and non-mainstream, but I found it a pleasant and relaxing way to spend an hour on a Sunday afternoon. The experience may have even inspired me to check out a few other albums, though it might be a few years. I'm still working through back catalogs of Dave Brubeck projects.

2012 The Dreaming Tree Everyday White Wine
Central Coast, California
42% Gewürztraminer, 33% Riesling, 14% Albariño, 11% Viognier
$15, 12% abv.

Overripe peach, apricot, and floral aromas. Touch of sweetness, low acidity. It's a curious blend that could only happen in California or Australia, but I think that the mix works to create a pleasant and casual summer sipper. Not a great match for the pizza but would be delicious with a chicken salad sandwich or related finger food.

2011 The Dreaming Tree Crush Red Wine
North Coast, California
55% Merlot, 17% Zinfandel, 13% Petite Sirah, 8% Syrah, 7% Other
$15, 13.5% abv.

Blueberries and plums on the nose, with a touch of spice. Big, round fruit flavors with firm tannins and a long finish. A much better fit with the pizza, and at the point at which I'm typing this sentence, I'm listening to the penultimate track "Baby Blue", which is a relaxing and pleasant way to finish the meal and savor the lingering flavors of the wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Purple Wine Company Online Tasting

These wines were tasted during a recent online Twitter tasting and video broadcast by the Purple Wine Company, host to a half dozen brands.

The Four Vines wine labels feature a sort of naked lady figure mixed with grape vines. Makes me wonder why J.R.R. Tolkien didn't have some little ent vines in one of the books. During the tasting, I asked if any of these these figures were made into hood ornaments to adorn company tractors, and the answer was no. It could be right up there with the Spirit of Ecstacy on the Rolls-Royce, yet equally tempting for theft.

2011 Four Vines Naked Chardonnay
Santa Barbara, California
100% Chardonnay
Unoaked
$12, 13.9% abv.

Mild and soft, round body with a supple mouthfeel. Dominant aromas of peach and apple with a gentle, barely acidic finish. I found myself craving a little dish of a half dozen steamed clams, topped with garlic and vermouth.

2010 Four Vines Truant Old Vine Zinfandel
California
77% Zinfandel, 13% Syrah, 5% Petite Sirah, 3% Barbera, 2% Sangiovese
$12, 14.5% abv.

Big red with a firm red fruit profile and strong tannins. Great red cherry and spice with a long, tannic finish. Definitely a good pizza wine.

2011 Alto Cinco Garnacha
Paniza, Spain
94% Garnacha, 6% Tempranillo
$15, 14% abv.

The name is a play on the "high five", though a different phrase is used for that gesture in Spanish-speaking countries. This wine has a bright red plum flavor, bold red fruit aromas, and a mild cherry finish. Low tannins and not much influence from oak. Like many Spanish reds, a great match for pork in its most delicious smoked forms.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Hedges Wines of Washington

I've tried the wines of Hedges Family Estate many times over the years, and was eager to give them a new sip and swirl here in 2013. I was delighted to see that so many of them showed up wearing throwback labels--in this case, a specific design style from the 60s and 70s in the United States, primarily on the west coast. The general idea was to look vaguely European but not adhering to any one country. So you'll see elements of classic German, French, and Italian wine label design all jumbled up. These are more noticeable in the second trio of wines below: elaborate coats-of-arms that don't represent an actual royal house, the diagonal phrase in a different ink, competing gothic and italic calligraphy, gold leaf, etc.

To see some real life examples from the early 70s, check out this vintage book I reviewed in 2007. Alas, I have to remind myself to ignore the fun graphic design and actually taste the wines on their own merits...

2011 Hedges CMS Red
Columbia Valley
49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, 4% Syrah
$14, 13.5% abv.

Touch of stewed fruit, sour cherry. Mild mouthfeel and a brief finish. Loved this with some stewed pork shoulder.

2011 Hedges Red Mountain
Red Mountain AVA
Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot
$29, 13.5% abv.

Black cherry and pepper, undertones of plum and blackberry. A pleasant little blend that would go well with a grilled steak on a Saturday afternoon.

2012 CMS Sauvignon Blanc
85% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Chardonnay, 5% Marsanne
$14, 14% abv.

Crisp and refreshing with notes of apricot and a splash of lemony acidity. Found myself wanting more Marsanne--not because the wine was out of balance, I just love that grape. Serve with Oysters Rockefeller during an appetizer course.

2011 HIP Merlot
Columbia Valley
100% Merlot
$14, 13%

HIP stands for "House of Independent Producers", and this and the next wine focus on a single grape variety from a specific winemaker. This gentle Merlot is definitely made in the French style with mild cherry flavors and a light body, light years away from the bold fruit bombs of California. The first domestic Merlot I've had that I think is appropriate for serving with salmon.

2011 HIP Chardonnay
Columbia Valley
$14, 13.5% abv.

The Chardonnay from this series has a surprising aroma of Meyer lemon, with flavors to match. There is that nice balance between acid and cream, and I served this one with a simple salad topped with dried figs and toasted pistachios and goat cheese.

2011 Descendants Liégeois Dupont Syrah
Red Mountain AVA
100% Syrah
$29, 14% abv.

Lastly, we have a proprietary blend done in a Rhône style. Plum and spice, mild tannins, and a deep, dark finish. A substantial and fruity red that demands a big dish. I had it with a bleu cheese burger, but think that it would be a nice accompaniment to game like venison or duck. Let it breathe and decant for a bit to enjoy all of the flavors of the wine.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

2011 HandCraft Cabernet Sauvignon

The HandCraft Artisan Collection features California wines that are made with dashes of Italian grapes under the under the direction of proprietor Cheryl Indelicato with Alicia Ysais, winemaker. HandCraft is involved in a number of charitable endeavors, including raising $100,000 in 2012 for breast cancer research.

I like the label design, with a wave of various vineyard elements moving across the label in a gentle sine curve. Autumn grape leaves, ripe clusters, barrels, etc. In addition to this Cabernet Sauvignon, they also make a Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Petite Sirah. The website features a nice selection of suggested recipes, and I'm tempted to try out the gorgonzola polenta.

2011 HandCraft Cabernet Sauvignon
California
77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Petite Sirah, 2% Sangiovese
$13, 14.5% abv.

Loads of dark fruit, with black cherry and plum combined with aromas and flavors of coffee and chocolate. A little leather as well, plus a tart, tannic finish. Long, lingering cherry flavors afterward. A great match with roast duck and pan-fried potatoes on a rainy August afternoon.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample.

Brief State of the Blog Address

I've got a lot of exciting wine reviews coming up, but for those of you that didn't see it on Twitter or Facebook, I just had my first article published at Palate Press:

Southern Pairings: Wines for BBQ, Fried Chicken, Collard Greens and More

At the end of August, I'll be covering the Cochon Heritage BBQ Event here in Memphis for Serious Eats.

I also have a few more wine blogger interviews in the wings, and if any of my fellow wine writers are interested in such an interview, let me know!

Vinho Verde in August

I continue my exploration of the many varied wines of Portugal's Vinho Verde region with this pair that showed up at the house last week. Given that I'm now living so close to sources of fresh seafood, pork offal, and cured meats that require a five-language guidebook, I'm beginning to think that it's time for me to start studying authentic Portuguese cuisine.

At some point, there's going to be a dinner party invite that begins, "The first course will be eels... If that's a problem, I'm not offended if you decline, because it's only going to get more non-mainstream American after that."

As with Spain, the wines of Portugual continue to amaze me with their ability to pair with a wide range of foods, and even bargain wines like these will just get better and better depending on how much care and flavor you put into your dishes. At the very least, rich cheeses and grilled vegetables topped with sea salt will draw out wonderful tastes when paired with wines such as the two below.

2012 Quinta da Raza Grande Escolha
Minho Vinho Regional
Blend of Alvarinho & Trajadura
$13, 12.5% abv.

This is a fairly traditional Vinho Verde, a little fizzy but oddly (and refreshingly) not sweet. Tropical fruits and a little floral undertone round out the nose, while the body is crisp, dry, and one that goes well with fresh fruit and yogurt. Not suggesting this as a breakfast wine, but as a light afternoon summer snack it works well.

2012 Quinta de Gomariz Espadeiro Rosado
Ave, Vinho Verde
100% Espadeiro
$12, 11.5% abv.

Beautiful light salmon color, mild flavor of wild strawberries, bright acidity and a clean, smooth finish. And it's got some gentle bubbles to it, which I wasn't expecting. I enjoyed it with yet another homemade anchovy pizza as part of my summer project to A) get better at making pizzas and B) sweat in the kitchen. The salt of the fish and the savory elements of my dried mushroom tomato sauce came together perfectly with this wine for great balance all around.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

2012 Coppola Votre Santé Chateau Red

One of the newest labels from Francis Ford Coppola bears the name of a popular French version of "cheers". The paperwork mentions that his paternal often said that before drinking wine. Why would an Italian say that? Because she grew up in Tunisia while it was under French control.

Francis, fratello mio, you can't just leave us with that bit of the story! There's got to be more! The 19th and early 20th century saw a lot of displacement of many people, thrown around the globe for various reasons. The Yorkshire veterinarian James Herriot wrote about a few Mongolians who had been drafted by the Soviets, captured in Germany, and placed on farms in northern England. My paternal grandfather spent a few years after WWII on Johnston Atoll, a tiny speck that is pretty far away from Hawai'i, which is already by itself in the middle of a giant ocean. His job was to study the weather for the Navy, which wasn't too rough in an area where it was the same temperature year-round.

I honored the Italian heritage of the wine with a homemade pepperoni pizza, which I thought benefitted greatly from dried mushrooms and salted anchovies in the sauce.

2012 Coppola Votre Santé Chateau Red
California
Proprietary blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre
$14, 13.5% abv.

This is a classic Rhône-style GSM blend, though more French in approach than the Australian versions of this mix. Bright cherry nose with mild, nutty undertones. Gentle tannins, low acid, and an overall light approach create a great bargain wine that should pair well with lots of summer dishes. I found it refreshing when chilled but also enjoyable at room temperature.

I don't know if the box that I got is available for retail sale, but it was one of the prettiest presentations I've ever received.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample.

A Few More Homemade Pizzas...

Inspired by my friend Fredric, I decided to revisit my old pizza-making skills, breaking out the peel and stretching the old kneading muscles. And Julia was excited to try some different pies from my home oven, so I asked her to think about what she'd like. Anything, no matter how crazy the topping.

These were all about 20cm/8 inches in diameter, and looking back, the big pools of fresh mozzarella aren't aesthetically perfect but tasted amazing. Before finding out what Julia wanted, I knew that I had to make a fresh clam pizza. My first effort in 2010 was made with canned clams, and I will say that the bag of live littlenecks I grabbed at the international market delivered a lot of great flavor. Garlic, romano cheese, fresh mozzarella, and a dash of basil that I crumbled over my slices. Just about perfect in terms of salty and savory flavors. I opened the clams just a bit in a warm skillet and then shucked them mostly raw on top of the pizza before going in the oven. Much better than the canned version.

Julia requested the following combination: fig, gorgonzola, prosciutto, and balsamic vinegar. I reconstituted the dried mission figs in a little water and balsamic, and the rest came together on top of my homemade San Marzano tomato sauce.

It's a great combination, and the figs and balsamic vinegar provide that little balancing element of sweetness to the other essential flavors. I was tempted to drizzle everything with truffle oil, but my lady does not like the fungus.

On the dough, I took Fredric's recent advice and switched from all-purpose to bread flour (sticking with King Arthur) and after much kneading, rolled out the dough with an empty wine bottle. Despite always having a half dozen empty wine bottles within easy reach of the kitchen counter, I haven't really used them as kitchen implements, and I was surprised at how well it performed for the task. I'm going to save a nice straight-sided Bordeaux bottle to keep on hand for this precise purpose.

The final pizza was built from the various leftovers, and turned out tasty in its vegetarian glory. Gorgonzola, fresh mozzarella, tomato sauce, and garlic. Pretty simple, but it came together well and was even great as leftovers the next day.

I know that my next task is to take my reawakened pizza skills and make a great quattro stagione pizza, or to get my hands on some crazy wild boar guanciale or other awesome cured meats to build something that you'd never get at your local chain pizza joint. Plus, I want to make some monstrous mushroom pizza for my own enjoyment--sliced trumpet stalks, oyster and shiitake mushrooms throughout, and topped with delicate blanched enoki mushrooms for texture. Mmmmm...

Hahn Family Pinot Gris & Pinot Noir

I've tried the wines of Hahn Winery a few times over the years, going back to 2007. Recently I had the chance to try two of their recent releases, both featuring that lovely brushstroke rooster label that I love so much.

2011 Hahn Winery Pinot Gris
100% Pinot Gris
Monterey
$14, 14.5% abv.

Lots of tropical fruit and melon on the nose with a slightly musky undertone. Bright acidity and a round mouthfeel. A short finish, and a wine that would pair quite well with grilled quail and fresh pineapple.

2011 Hahn Winery Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir
California
$14, 14.5% abv.

Light strawberry aromas and flavors, low acidity and a mild finish. Fairly delicate for a bargain Pinot Noir and one that I enjoyed with a roast beef and horseradish sandwich on a hot Saturday evening.


Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Barefoot Wines of July

It's summer and it's time for a handful of inexpensive bottles that you can throw on ice and enjoy with whatever you've got on the grill. For example, here's a trio of Gallo's Barefoot Wines from California.

NV Barefoot Sauvignon Blanc
100% Sauvignon Blanc
California
$7, 13% abv.

Light, gentle lime peel flavor, round mouthfeel with low acid and a soft finish. Recommended as an appetizer wine with those bacon wrapped shrimp coming off the fire.

NV Barefoot Zinfandel
100% Zinfandel
California
$7, 13% abv.

Big and jammy with dark fruit. Dominant profile of black plum with undertones of cherry. A good burger and pizza wine.

NV Barefoot Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir
California
$7, 12.5% abv.

This is a fairly restrained and quiet wine, with mild blackberry aroma, no tannins, and a short finish. I ended up converting this into some really delicious sangria with the help of oranges, triple sec, and a few other bits of magic. And for the price, you could make all kinds of red wine cocktails with it.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

Steelhead Vineyards

Steelhead Vineyards is a Sonoma winery named after the steelhead trout, a threatened freshwater fish species of the Pacific northwest. It's also found in the cold water streams of Northern California wine country, and this particular winery is engaged in conservation efforts to save the trout.

I love cooking and eating trout. It's got a wonderful flavor, looks beautiful on the plate, and is pretty easy to cook. And I love to fish: I've enjoyed many wonderful weekends throughout my life fishing for local bass, bluegill, perch, catfish, stripers... I'm not a master angler but I've caught and consumed many fish from our lakes, ponds, and rivers. What have I never caught? Arkansas trout. I've been on canoe trips when I was able to reach down and pick up a trout out of the water, but couldn't get one to take any sort of bait. My father and I stood bare-legged in the Ozarks' White River while watching our lures bump off the heads of the snooty brown trout. Dad thought he caught one but upon reeling it in realized that he had merely snagged it in the gills and couldn't claim it as a catch.

I'm willing to admit that part of it might be my own technique and experience: bass have been known to gobble up frogs, slow moving birds, and anything else that moves. Catfish will gobble up the most rancid scraps of chicken liver hung off a trotline--no actual rod and reel needed, and I won't even go into stink bait recipes. But trout seem to require such finesse and artistry, which is why they attract the hardcore fly fishers.

2011 Steelhead Sauvignon Blanc
100% Sauvignon Blanc
North Coast
3,000 Cases Made
$12, 13.5% abv.

For a bargain Sauvignon Blanc, this is quite delicate. The nose opens up with light mild peach. On the palate it has balanced acidity with a gentle round body. Quite tasty and one that would in fact match well with trout.

2011 Steelhead Pinot Noir
100% Pinot Noir
Sonoma Coast
2,500 Cases Made
$15, 13.8% abv.

A fairly strong Pinot Noir, with elements of red cherry and bold tannins. There's a big fruit flavor with a little earth underneath, and a long finish. Sturdy for this particular grape, and perhaps well suited to roasted lamb dishes.

2010 Steelhead Red Wine
65% Zinfandel, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc, 5% Syrah
North Coast
2,700 Cases Made
$15, 14.2% abv.

Another big, fruit-forward wine, but I preferred this one to the Pinot Noir. Bold plum and chocolate dominate the aroma and flavor profile. A big bodied wine with huge tannins that dry the palate, but one that I would strongly recommend for summertime BBQ dining. It would be perfect with smoked pork ribs doused in a sweet Memphis sauce.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

DaVinci Wines

The Cantine Leonardo da Vinci cooperative was formed in Tuscany in 1965 and continues making wine today in the spirit of the legendary Renaissance artist and inventor. Leonardo was a legendary doodler, and his sketches of helicopters and war machines and parachutes were strangely prophetic... Or perhaps less surprising if you've seen the school notebooks of bored young boys. Yes, I got to see my design of yard lights that would charge up via solar energy during the day and glow at night featured in the SkyMall catalog on a flight to Cincinnati.

I could stew over that missed opportunity, or I could fix some tasty food and enjoy a pair of delicious Italian wine samples. Let's take the latter path.

2012 DaVinci Pinot Grigio
Alto Adige/Trento
90% Pinot Grigio, 10% Chardonnay
$12, 12.5% abv.

Peach and apricot with a touch of buttery popcorn underneath, making me think that the Chardonnay saw a little oak and gives the wine a little deeper structure. Bright fruit, tart acidity, and a medium finish. Great with a grilled chicken salad, chilled on a hot summer day.

2011 DaVinci Chianti
Chianti
90% Sangiovese, 10% Merlot
$9, 13.5% abv.

Plum and spice dominate the nose, while there is a mild body with low tannins and a red cherry finish. This is a perfect middle-of-the-week pizza wine, tasty after a half hour in the refrigerator. Delicious with a nice NYC-style pepperoni floppy slice.


Note: These wines were provided as samples.

One Pizza, Don't Hold the Anchovies

The humble anchovy doesn't get a lot of respect in the world of pizza (or anywhere else), but I love that tiny salty fish. However, I rarely order pizza with anchovies, because I don't know what kind they've got, how fresh the jar or can is, and frankly, if I'm going to eat anchovies I want them cooked by somebody that actually likes them.

Julia has been bugging me to make homemade pizza, and our friends Brett and Lynn gave me a pizza stone last year. I've been slow to use it and decided to do a practice pie tonight using a few ingredients I knew Julia would not enjoy.

The sauce is a can of imported San Marzano tomatoes cooked down with three cloves of garlic, half a glass of Zinfandel, and a handful of dried mushrooms. All cooked down until thick and then blended with a stick blender.

The toppings are sliced fresh mozzarella, roasted yellow cherry tomatoes, oil-packed anchovy fillets, all baked to perfection, then graced with a dash of chopped fresh basil and grated Grana Padano cheese.

I'm a little out of practice when it comes to homemade pizza, and it's really too hot to be playing this game today, but I look forward to rebuilding my skills for a future dinner party, with lots of individually designed pizzas for each guest.

Wine Sippy Cup XL

Back in April I reviewed the Wine Sippy Cup. Now comes the upgrade: the VinoGo™ XL ($17). This one will hold just a little under half a bottle of wine, so be careful filling it up before hitting the playground or PTA meeting.

Why did I go with the "Party Pink" color option for the topper? My girlfriend Julia loves this thing, and I let her pick out the shade. I went with plain white on the first one and that was judged as boring. After posting a few pictures of it on Facebook, I noticed a lot of friendly comments about the product from some of my female friends.

I will note that beloved friends and wine experts who happen to be female have openly criticized my often casual approach to wine, such as drinking Colorado Cabernet Franc out of a hotel tumbler while making osso buco in said hotel room. And there is something to be said for the perfect wine with the perfect glass, such as my recent experience with the Riedel Malbec glass and the fact that I don't let anyone else drink out of my Gruet Riedel Champagne flute. But at the same time, wine doesn't have to be so serious 24/7.

The wine sippy cup is great for casual table wines, gentle summer sippers, or as fun gifts for a wedding or baby shower. I'm tempted to drink pomegranate juice out of it at work just to see how long it takes for someone to call Human Resources. (To any family members or co-workers reading this, I am strictly joking.)

Look: it's hot outside, it's nice to unwind with a cool glass of inexpensive wine, and I say hoist the sippy cup and enjoy yourself. Cheers!

Note: This product was provided as a sample.

Montefalco Wines of Umbria

I rarely if ever quote directly from press releases or back labels, but this particular pitch caught my eye:

Don't you know about the bird? Well, in Italy everybody’s heard, about the bird! If you're not in the know, the bird is the hawk, the symbol of Montefalco, the medieval town in Central Italy (Umbria) rebuilt by Frederick II in 1249.

Little did the writer know that I'm the kind of guy who got excited about seeing a Cooper's Hawk in the cove outside my bedroom window. I ran outside and captured it in four different poses as it was chased away by a Mockingbird (state bird of Tennessee, natch). I'm not an active birder but I did truly enjoy the 2011 comedy The Big Year, and having spent a lot of time in the woods and traveling, I'm always excited to spot a bird I've never seen in the flesh before. Such an interest translates well into wine, with the opportunity to chase after certain rare grapes, regions, or vintages. Unlike birders, I get most of my interesting finds delivered to my doorstep.

Note to bird breeders and international rara avis smugglers: Please do not send me any bird samples. I prefer to wait for natural migration patterns or the odd summer storm to deliver interesting birds to my backyard.

As mentioned in the top quote, these wines come from one of those ancient little towns in the middle of Italy. Umbria is a region associated with famous towns like Assisi and Perugia, and I enjoyed my visit there. The cities are not big like Rome and Milan, the name is not as well associated with romantic writing about Tuscany and Emilia-Romagna, but the food, wine, and people are wonderful. Here are three tasty wines from the small medieval town of about five thousand citizens. Two of them feature the iconic, tannic, regional, dark grape known as Sagrantino.

2011 Scacciadiavoli Grechetto dell'Umbria
Umbria IGT
100% Grechetto
$15, 13% abv.

This Greek grape found its way to Italy a very long time ago. Despite the thick skin this grape produces very delicate white pear flavors, low acidity, and a mild, clean finish. Serve with a traditional rustic fava bean soup.

2010 Arnaldo-Caprai Montefalco Rosso
Montefalco Rosso DOC
70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino, 15% Merlot
$23, 14.5% abv.

This bottle had a nose of red cherry with tart acidity and firm tannins, showing that the Sagrantino can be really bold even at 15%. Later there were notes of leather and cedar on the finish. I'd suggest a simple quattro stagioni pizza with a single topping on each quarter representing a different season. I don't know why this dish hasn't caught on here in the US, perhaps in a version with our own local delicacies. The ones I had in Umbria featured ham, olives, artichoke hearts, and mushrooms above the tomato sauce and mozzarella. I finished off an entire one while chatting with the chef one cold December day in Perugia...

2007 Perticaia
Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG
100% Sagrantino
$48, 14% abv.

If Italy teaches you anything, it's patience. Despite the fact that this wine is six years old, the pure Sagrantino makeup means that it remains bold and big. Another half decade might be required to soften these strong grapes. The Perticaia features a dominant profile of black cherry with a touch of cinnamon. Bold tannins and blackberries follow on the palate. Nice, big finish. This would be amazing with a rich venison stew full of garlic and perhaps a few truffle shavings for depth. The wine would certainly stand up to it.

Interested in birds and wine? Be sure to check out my friend Dezel's site My Vine Spot. A lot of his reviews end with gorgeous photos of the local avian population of the Washington, D.C. area.

Note: These wines were provided as samples.

2012 Line 39 Pinot Noir

I first tried the wines of Line 39 back in April and was delighted to give the Pinot Noir a sip and a swirl. I spoke in that post about the importance of latitude (from whence this wine gets its name), but lately I've been thinking a lot about terroir and how some of the more complex geology is due to meteorite impacts over the past several million years... Sometimes, we're not just drinking a wine, we're consuming stardust.

At $11, this one is a great bargain, and while it's not the most delicate Pinot Noir on the market, it is a fun sipper with a lot of great balance. If you're interested in the world of bargain wines, be sure to check out my pal Jon Thorsen's blog called The Reverse Wine Snob. It focuses on wines under $20, with occasional splurges on Saturday. I had fun hanging out with Jon in NYC and like his daily posts on affordable wines.

2012 Line 39 Pinot Noir
Central Coast, California
100% Pinot Noir
$11, 14.4% abv.
10,000 cases made

It opens up with a nose of ripe strawberry and earth, with a touch of pencil shavings. Mild and round with a little tannic bite on the finish. Full bodied for Pinot Noir, and one that will stand up well to heartier cuisine. It may sound like an odd pairing, but I really enjoyed this chilled and served with crispy fried chicken.

Note: This wine was provided as a sample.